Author’s Note: You’ve heard it before, but its worth repeating, the off-seasons (winter) and shoulder seasons (spring and fall) are great times to visit Cape Cod. One reason, as it relates to the topic below, is less traffic. Less traffic (i.e., people) means the main roads – Route 28 and Route 6A – are wide-open and you can actually make a left turn without risking your life. It is now safe to pull-over to the side of the road and take a closer look at the sights and scenery. Some sights, often an afterthought, are historic 18th and 19th century homes, commercial buildings and churches that dot the landscape and provide a glimpse into Cape Cod’s storied past.
Some of the oldest and most unique buildings are located off the main roads of Route 28 (named “Main Street” in most towns it cuts through) and Route 6A (it is referred to as the Old Kings Highway after all). So this off-season, take a leisurely drive along these roads, but pay close attention to the stretch of Route 28 through West Harwich, from the Herring River (near the Weatherdeck Restaurant and Harbor Glen Mini Golf) to the Dennis town line. The almost 1-mile stretch is locally known as “Captain’s Row,” featuring two dozen former sea captains’ homes and historic buildings, many of which are designated on the National Register of Historic Places. Indeed, hidden history in plain sight!
Captain’s Row: Hidden History in Plain Sight in West Harwich
While I am not a local zoning expert or historian (though I did take Art History 102 in college), I do appreciate history, culture, traditions, character and origins of how things came to be. A fun example of the latter are street names. In Harwich alone, the following street names exists: Happy Way, Wheelock Road, Punkhorn Road, and Deep Hole Road. Each street has its own story, of which I do not know, other than a passing reference to an old quarry near the shoreline for Deep Hole Road. Street names are (were) often named after actual people, who originally lived or owned that land. Others, like Main Street, Ocean View Drive, or Post Road have literal meanings. While significant to local history, street signs are just that, signs, leaving the casual observer left to wonder its meaning. The same can be said for historic buildings – often hidden in plain sight – that have their own story to tell. But unlike street signs that pass the test of time, those stories and not-so-hidden history could be lost forever.
Scattered among modern homes, popular restaurants, commercial centers, and seasonal entertainment, is a West Harwich neighborhood with deep historical roots and cultural significance of Cape Cod’s past. Despite being located on a now bustling stretch of Route 28, the neighborhood “epitomizes an old Yankee colonial village. It’s an unusual slice of history,” said 9th generation resident Dr. Duncan Berry. Two dozen buildings (most of which are houses) along this corridor have been inventoried at the Massachusetts Historical Commission and identified as core historic structures, recommended to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Each building is an example of a major style of American residential architecture from the 1740s to the 1940s. Yet, this history is at risk.
There has been a resurgence of advocacy efforts to protect Captain’s Row, as recent proposals to demolish these historic buildings have come before town officials. One proposal to raze a sea captain’s home built in 1878 in order to develop a large retail outlet drew widespread oppostion at a public hearing before the project was later withdrawn. Another attempt was made recently to demolish a vacant historic building that drew protestors. In response, educational campaigns to raise awareness of the issue have been launched, such as “The Houses of Captain’s Row” exhibit at the Harwich Historical Society, regular letters-to-the-editor about the latest “DCPC” update (District of Critical Planning Concern) have been published and a charming aerial video of the village accompanied by amazingly “ravey” background music was posted. (Somehow the history-rave music combination works.) But the ultimate preservation effort is pursuit of a historic “designation” to protect certain buildings from demolition or major re-construction that would destroy its historic significance.
I’ve come to learn there are multiple official designations to protect historic places (cultural, historic, architectural, economic resource, transportation management, etc.). Without getting too deep into the zoning and legal protections, many neighbors would like to protect the original (historic) structure of the buildings while allowing them to be used for modern-day commercial or residential use. In other words, locals do not want to let the buildings to decay further and become mothballed museums of the past (though there actually is a plan for the former West Harwich School House to become a maritime museum and visitor’s center), but to attract businesses or residents to give a second, third, fourth or tenth life to the original property. That “next life” will be a challenge since that stretch of Route 28 is not pedestrian friendly, the town already lacks affordable housing, and some of the properties need major (costly) repairs. And of course, zoning, licensing, etc.
I’ll admit, until recently, I was an oblivious passerby cruising along Route 28 through the area, but now that I understand and appreciate the history, I’d like to see these historic structures saved. Once any historic building is torn down, it’s not coming back. Further, the concentration of different styles of early American architectural in this neighborhood does seem unique compared to the usual mix of original cottages and multi-million dollar new second-home construction that line most Cape Cod towns. To raise awareness of those oblivious passerbys, plans are underway to add subtle features throughout the neighborhood such as signage and antique-like lanterns to the street lighting, more in line with the area’s history. The visual appeal will likely turn some heads.
Someone recently wrote in a letter-to-the editor, “we save buildings because they remind us of the past, of the community we wish to maintain, and sometimes because of their architectural beauty.” All of the above could be said about Captain’s Row in West Harwich. But eventually demolition delays end, owners sell, and community needs change.
Can preserving the past co-exist with encouraging economic development and increasing employment opportunities?