Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.
Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!
Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port
Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…
…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn.
After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.
Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families.
The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy.
While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.
The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy.
In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace.
In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club.
As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor.
I remember the summer of 1960 and 61 when my father took us to Cape Cod for two week vacation. We rented a cabin at the beach in Harwich. The radio played the Thompson Clam Bar Jingle constantly all day and into the night. The last day of our vacation we went to eat at the clam bar. I remember that when people ordered the lobster, the head was shaved off and this small kid was playing with the feelers as the lobster stood upright on plate with its beady little eyes starting at you. Had a great time and food was great. Went back a few times the summer of 61 for both lunch and dinner.