The view from Alex B. Haas Memorial Park, Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
“Ocean views.” “Waterfront location.” “Private dock.” “Deeded rights to Sandy beach.” “Easy access to Gray’s beach.” These vivid descriptions, used predominantly in real estate listings, illustrate the fabulousness that is Cape Cod, i.e., the water. Indeed, a large sandy, peninsula surrounded by water (Cape Cod Bay, Atlantic Ocean and Nantucket Sound and Buzzards Bay), plus a mindboggling 300+ inland fresh water ponds, adds up to one special place.
Yet, because so much of Cape Cod – beaches, marshes, forests, ponds – are protected (and they should be), there are less shoreline attractions than other coastal communities. On the flipside, the lack of shoreline development/attractions, is also what makes Cape Cod one special place.
The memorial rock inscribed with a lovely poetic tribute. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
With so many of us drawn to the water, finding a secluded place on Cape Cod can seem few and far between. Fear not.
While not a traditional park, the Alex B. Haas Memorial Park in Harwich is a wonderful spot. First, it honors those “crossing the bar,” with an unobstructed view of Saquatucket Harbor, a beautiful resting place.
Surrounded by green shrubbery, the Alex B. Haas Memorial Park is hidden in plain sight. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Second, it is located in an active harbor, so the loading and unloading of boats is some of the best free entertainment you will find on Cape Cod.
Three, it is located between the popular Dockside Cafe and the iconic Brax Landing, two restaurants pumping delicious smells into the air.
A seated view from Alex B. Haas Memorial Park, Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Now sure, no one is bringing family and friends to meet up at this park. The park is barely the size of a Ford F-150 – with the tailgate closed. Yet, it is a somewhat hidden sanctuary in a lively place.
Haas Memorial Park is for your quiet time. Watch, listen, meditate, read, paint, do what inspires. It’s an awe-inspiring view.
The picture-perfect view of Wychmere Harbor from Route 28. The former clam bar is the long building located middle right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.
Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!
Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Pinterest.com.
Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…
…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn.
A 1992 ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.
After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.
Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families.
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy.
While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.
The former Thompson’s Clam Bar from the Wychmere Harbor entrance. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy.
In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace.
A nautically-themed lunch menu featuring Thompson’s Special Cape Cod Clam Chowder. Photo credit: KJ Blaque.
In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club.
As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor.
One of many birthdays celebrated at Thompson’s Clam Bar. I vividly remember the ice cream scoop sundae even though I’m enjoying cake this time. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Boats tied up on Sundancer’s dock on Bass River in West Dennis.
Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you.
While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.
With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…
The view of the Sagamore Bridge and Cape Cod Canal from Herring Run Recreation Area, across the street from Seafood Shanty.
Bournedale The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water.
Boats listing near Chatham Fish Pier, down the road from the Chatham Bars Inn.
Chatham The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home.
Clancy’s Restaurant overlooking Swan River at dusk.
Dennis Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.
The beach in front of the Beach Bar at the Ocean House.
Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!
Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)
The sign for Brax Landing along Route 28 is hard to miss!
Harwich Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.
A round of local steamers at the Black Cat Tavern! (Sorry El!)
Hyannis Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.
Unbeknownst to us, this was our last Liam’s family dinner on Nauset Beach. Threats of erosion cannot be overstated.
Orleans Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.
The view from a picnic table in the “backyard” of the Canteen in P-Town.
Provincetown The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.
Apparently I didn’t take any pictures while eating at the Bookstore & Restaurant, but I did park in the lot across from the Bookstore for the Wellfleet Oysterfest (and ran the 5K earlier).
Wellfleet The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.
The crew at “our table” after a day on the beach. Also Pro Kadima & Kan Jam champs.
The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.
I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?
Author’s Note: I continue to be amazed by how much you can do on Cape Cod in autumn. The shoulder season is packed full of events, from dog friendly days, festivals, craft fairs, road races, as well as clearance sales at many stores. Most outdoor activities, such as whale watches, mini golf (and large golf), kayaking, biking, fishing charters, etc., are still open and not nearly as busy. That last point paving the way for “restaurant hopping,” which in peak summer season, would require the waiting game. Not in autumn.
That familiar sign along Route 28.
Waterfront dining is at a premium on Cape Cod. While it may be easy to find waterfront dining options thanks to articles like this and Apps like Yelp, it will likely take a good chunk of time to be seated. Nothing could be more true of Brax Landing, located prominently along Route 28 overlooking Saquatucket Harbor, in Harwichport. For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been a go-to restaurant to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view on the deck. You just may need to ignore the seemingly hundreds of cars in the parking lot and parked on the grass.
Prior to 1976, the building then known as the Bourne House, provided housing for staff of former and legendary Thompson’s Clam Bar, located further down Route 28, off Snow Inn Road, overlooking another waterfront, Wychmere Harbor. Brax Landing has been an institution on the Lower Cape’s restaurant scene ever since — not too mention a fixture of the Shaw Family’s rotation for dining out.
Everyone has a waterfront view at Brax Landing.
The restaurant’s exterior weathered wood panelling just oozes Cape Cod, with a dark wood interior channeling a well traveled tavern consisting of four rooms. The first room being the largest and brightest, the dining room with large rectangle windows overlooking the patio and harbor. Take a few steps down, and the tables next to the windows are on a lower level so the view for everyone in the dining room is unobstructed. The second room is the bar, with about 12 stools (once again, overlooking the harbor — think that’s a theme), 4 table tops and an open area near the fireplace for folks to mill about. The third room is an extension of the bar with about six table tops for open seating.
The view from the cocktail deck is one of the best on the Lower Cape, 2012.
Saving the best for last is the outdoor patio, with over 20 tables, and again, the deck area designed with an upper and lower level with waterfront views. You can taste the salt air. Recently, a firepit was added surrounded by Adirondack chairs so patrons can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table or enjoy a nightcap in the crisp evening air.
The famed Lobster Roll and pint to pair.
Brax Landing’s blackboard menu features specials such as prime rib, baked stuffed lobster, and catch of the day, appearing on your left as you walk down the dark hallway to the hostess. It sets a tone that the restaurant has a range of menu options and seeks to please all. The regular menu is casual, with a mix of hearty soups, big salads, tavern fare and a short list of entrees. For the last 10 years or so, the Lobster Roll has been a hard selection to pass up. While the $22.99 “market price” might turn some off, the 50-50 claw to tail meat ratio is worth it. The hard roll is comically large, nestled next to two handfuls of fries, cup of cole slaw and a dill pickle. Add a summer ale – or in this season – a harvest ale – and you will leave feeling full and happy. We also learned they have gluten-free bread to swap in for hard rolls, which is a nice touch and reassuring that they accommodate people with food allergies.
The wait staff hustles, the bartender banter is hilarious -if not contagious should you have the pleasure of nabbing a seat at the bar. Brax Landing’s character, breathtaking view and hearty fare keeps locals, seasonal residents and visitors coming back. A full parking lot and 45+ minute wait should not stop you from landing at Brax!
