Lost Restaurant Series: Thompson’s Clam Bar

The picture-perfect view of Wychmere Harbor from Route 28. The former clam bar is the long building located middle right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.

Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!

Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port

A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Pinterest.com.

Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…

…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn. 

A 1992 ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.  

Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families. 

A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.

The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy. 

While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.  

The former Thompson’s Clam Bar from the Wychmere Harbor entrance. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.

The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy. 

In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace. 

A nautically-themed lunch menu featuring Thompson’s Special Cape Cod Clam Chowder. Photo credit: KJ Blaque.

In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club. 

As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor. 

One of many birthdays celebrated at Thompson’s Clam Bar. I vividly remember the ice cream scoop sundae even though I’m enjoying cake this time. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

Soft Serve at Bob’s Sub & Cone

The funky sign welcomes weary travelers. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.

Author’s Note: After finishing a delicious fried scallop plate from Mac’s on the Pier in Wellfleet, I followed Kendrick Avenue west away from busy harbor and rounded the bend to a most welcome sight. Summer Winds Cottages, a noticeable cottage community with a similar theme…Jimmy Buffett. The half-dozen or so cottages are all named after a Jimmy Buffett song, and represent another example of Wellfleet’s fun vibe as the place to be. Beaches, bars, boats, and dare I say ballards? Parrotheads will appreciate the reference. The cottage, Stars on the Water, is available to rent. If Porchfest extends to these cottages, I wonder what songs will be played…

Classic vanilla soft serve puts a smile on my face (every time). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Soft Serve at Bob’s Sub & Cone

Soft serve vanilla ice cream is my favorite summer dessert. Okay, okay, summer time snack, sometimes playing the role of dessert. Stemming from surprise visits of the neighborhood ice cream truck, to well earned (behaved) ice cream breaks during a day on the beach, to elaborate and decadent ice cream sundae birthday “cakes” at Thompon’s Clam Bar, my love of ice cream blossomed. Those experiences built the foundation of which my ice cream obsession stands firm. Admitedly, I just don’t get the same enjoyment scooping ice cream out of a tub in the freezer. Fresh, outside under sunny skies, summer time is ice cream time.

Freshly “pulled” soft serve on a sugar cone (or the hard stuff scooped into a waffle cone), is simply the perfect treat on a summer day. I’m constantly on the look-out for soft serve ice cream spots when traveling across and around the Cape, as I do for solid clam chowder finds. 

Much to my dismay, not every “Sundae School” offers soft serve ice cream. But those that do, get my attention. After a rousing round of mini golf, our friends Matt and Kate introduced us to Bob’s Sub & Cone, a seasonal, family-run, take-out only restaurant in Wellfleet. The almost 40-year old establishment owned and operated by Bob and Cathy Nelson is located on Route 6; on the side of the Cape Cod Rail Trail, making a quick stop super convenient. 

The signs hanging off the counter provide a little humor during a stressful time. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The crazy looking baker logo on the restaurant’s sign paints an accurate picture of the vibe. Upon a recent visit, and in context to social distancing practices, the signs on the counter read, “Masks required, clothing optional,” with a picture of two people in bathing suits. Another sign read, “stand wicked fah apart,” paying homage to the “summah” accent. But perhaps most noticeable about Bob’s Sub n Cone is the size and variety of the menu. 

The family-centered restaurant menu has everything from classic fried seafood to baked lasagna, pizza, subs, tacos, fried chicken and steak tips!  And of course, the ice cream. 

A little about the ice cream. It’s not just any ice cream, but world class Gifford’s Famous Ice Cream. With origins in the 1800s, Giffords ice cream has thrived through five generations. Nowadays, the company offers 100 unique flavors and sells 1.7 million gallons of ice cream every summer. Fortunately, a few of those gallons are available at Bob’s, so even if you’re not a fan of soft serve, you have plenty of ice cream options. 

Summer Wind Cottages are named after Jimmy Buffett songs. Hard not to love the neighborhood vibe. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Enjoy!

Brax Landing’s Waterfront Dining

Author’s Note: I continue to be amazed by how much you can do on Cape Cod in autumn. The shoulder season is packed full of events, from dog friendly days, festivals, craft fairs, road races, as well as clearance sales at many stores. Most outdoor activities, such as whale watches, mini golf (and large golf), kayaking, biking, fishing charters, etc., are still open and not nearly as busy. That last point paving the way for “restaurant hopping,” which in peak summer season, would require the waiting game. Not in autumn.

That familiar sign along Route 28.

Waterfront dining is at a premium on Cape Cod. While it may be easy to find waterfront dining options thanks to articles like this and Apps like Yelp, it will likely take a good chunk of time to be seated. Nothing could be more true of Brax Landing, located prominently along Route 28 overlooking Saquatucket Harbor, in Harwichport. For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been a go-to restaurant to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view on the deck. You just may need to ignore the seemingly hundreds of cars in the parking lot and parked on the grass.

Prior to 1976, the building then known as the Bourne House, provided housing for staff of former and legendary Thompson’s Clam Bar, located further down Route 28, off Snow Inn Road, overlooking another waterfront, Wychmere Harbor. Brax Landing has been an institution on the Lower Cape’s restaurant scene ever since — not too mention a fixture of the Shaw Family’s rotation for dining out.

Everyone has a waterfront view at Brax Landing.

The restaurant’s exterior weathered wood panelling just oozes Cape Cod, with a dark wood interior channeling a well traveled tavern consisting of four rooms. The first room being the largest and brightest, the dining room with large rectangle windows overlooking the patio and harbor. Take a few steps down, and the tables next to the windows are on a lower level so the view for everyone in the dining room is unobstructed. The second room is the bar, with about 12 stools (once again, overlooking the harbor — think that’s a theme), 4 table tops and an open area near the fireplace for folks to mill about. The third room is an extension of the bar with about six table tops for open seating.

The view from the cocktail deck is one of the best on the Lower Cape, 2012.

Saving the best for last is the outdoor patio, with over 20 tables, and again, the deck area designed with an upper and lower level with waterfront views. You can taste the salt air. Recently, a firepit was added surrounded by Adirondack chairs so patrons can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table or enjoy a nightcap in the crisp evening air.

The famed Lobster Roll and pint to pair.

Brax Landing’s blackboard menu features specials such as prime rib, baked stuffed lobster, and catch of the day, appearing on your left as you walk down the dark hallway to the hostess. It sets a tone that the restaurant has a range of menu options and seeks to please all. The regular menu is casual, with a mix of hearty soups, big salads, tavern fare and a short list of entrees. For the last 10 years or so, the Lobster Roll has been a hard selection to pass up. While the $22.99 “market price” might turn some off, the 50-50 claw to tail meat ratio is worth it. The hard roll is comically large, nestled next to two handfuls of fries, cup of cole slaw and a dill pickle. Add a summer ale – or in this season –  a harvest ale – and you will leave feeling full and happy. We also learned they have gluten-free bread to swap in for hard rolls, which is a nice touch and reassuring that they accommodate people with food allergies.

The wait staff hustles, the bartender banter is hilarious -if not contagious should you have the pleasure of nabbing a seat at the bar. Brax Landing’s character, breathtaking view and hearty fare keeps locals, seasonal residents and visitors coming back. A full parking lot and 45+ minute wait should not stop you from landing at Brax!

Jingle(s) All the Way

Author’s Note: In my research to answer a family question (e.g., settle a debate) about former Thompson’s Clam Bar located in Wychmere Harbor, Harwichport, MA, I came across this 2010 article about “warm memories of local television and radio ad jingles and slogans from yesteryear.” My mind immediately went back in time to connect the “then” of the article to the “now” of one of the finer points, those classic radio ad jingles. (And yes, I found the answer to the question/debate; Thompson’s Clam Bar served over 2,000 meals a day!)

Apparently my internal alarm clock is set to the radio frequency range of Ocean 104.7-Crafted for the Cape, a radio station that covers Cape Cod. The radio station begins to come in around Exit 4 on I-495 and Exit 18 on I-195 and my brain seemingly knew to change the channel during two recent drives. If you have not yet had the pleasure of a leisurely drive on Route 28 or 6A (without traffic) listening to this station, especially through the neighborhoods dotted with charming sea captains homes in Brewster along 6A, you should give it a try. Pandora, Sirius, and Podcasts can wait.

The music ranges from Frank Sinatra to the Beach Boys to the Grateful Dead to the Doobie Brothers, with a mix of helpful updates – weather and traffic – and local news, such as events and happenings. The radio station jockeys are a positive bunch. Even when reporting something not-so-good, they always seem to add a positive twist. For example, if there is rain in the forecast, they would say, “That [rain] will help keep those lawns green,” or, “it’s going to be more of a “shopper” than a “beacher.” Hard not to appreciate the change in attitude – potentially due to the change in latitude, right Jimmy? (Couldn’t resist.)

But what sets this radio station apart from others, is that many of their advertisers proudly market to the masses with delightful radio ad jingles. That’s right, the often corny, seldom funny and mostly adorable greatest generation-era jingles, are sprinkled throughout the daily programming. I can’t recall ever looking forward to a commercial, but turns out I rarely change the channel for the chance to catch one of these rare gems. As a creative soul, I have to give these businesses a shout-out for taking a chance and “jingling all the way!”

Here are a few favorite radio ad jingles to be on the look-out for…and another to take you back to yesteryear. You may even want to save some of these links when you need a happiness pick-me-up! Go:

Barbo’s Furniture

If you like the flute, this jingles for you! On a side note, our family cottage was furnished with Barbo’s furniture for the better part of two decades. And we still have/use all of the furniture!

“Barbo’s….Barbo’s….for furniture you will live with….happily ever after!”

Bobby Byrne’s Restaurant and Pub

In this day and age, the fact that this establishment encourages talking in their ad is refreshing! Put down your phones, kids and adults, time to have a conversation again!

“Everbody’s eating, and drinking, and talking at Bobby Bryne’s!”

Cape and Island Glass

This is a “harder” take on a classic radio ad jingle (scroll down to the last song), though they are dealing with glass after all. The jingle is oddly catchy thanks to Dave Reed’s voice, and certainly memorable for the beats:

“Glass…Cape and Islands Glass…1-800-540-7742…that’s glass…Cape and Islands Glass…if you need glass…”

Casual Designs

While this jingle may make you think twice about how your home is furnished, it’s a cozy little number:

“Surround your outdoor with comfort and style… Casual Designs”

Kent’s Carpetland

Not terribly creative, but hey, singing three words still counts as a jingle in my book:

“Kent’s… Kent’s…Carpetland”

Lobster Claw Restaurant

Clearly leading the pack, it’s hard not to sing along once you know the words. It’s also on our list of places to check out this summer since we always just drive by it on our way to the Outer Cape.

“The cape in the summer is magic,

The sun, and the sea and the wind on the shore,

These days are made for families,

That’s what we’re here for.

At the Lobster Claw Restaurant, 

Great dining by the sea,

At the Lobster Claw Restaurant,

We’re one big family.”

The Pancake Man

As a 9-year-old, I can attest that this ad got me with just two views. So much so, I worked over my father to drive 30 minutes for pancakes! He still remembers the syrup on the menus, as do some of our good friends, Frank and Jess with a similar experience.

“Who’s cooking breakfast as fast as he can,

Who’s cooking breakfast it’s the pancake man,

Any time of day,

You can you can,

Join us for breakfast at the pancake man,

I said the pancake man!”

Scudder Taylor Fuel

I dare someone to listen to both this jingle and their recent ad about how air conditioning saves you money, and not give them a call:

“Stay cool…stay cool…with Scudder Taylor fuel.”

Seafood Sam’s

This cheery jingle would be on the same level of the Lobster Claw except for one huge problem; I have not heard it on the airwaves since the spring. Bring it back!:

“Lobster…scallops…and clams…at Seafood Sam’s!”

Thompson’s Clam Bar

But the ultimate jingle is none other than the aforementioned classic, former Thompson’s Clam Bar. This one is personal for me. As a kid in the 1980s, with a birthday on August 30th, and at a time when kids went back to school after Labor Day, I spent many birthdays not just on the Cape, but at Thompson’s Clam Bar.

My parents and grandparents loved this place — and so did us kids. The food was piled high, lucky patrons were seated on an outdoor deck overlooking Wychmere Harbor, with sailboats regularly floating by quietly practically next to the tables! For birthday desserts, they created an ice cream scoop(s) birthday cake which forced everyone to dig in quickly before it melted. No one passed on dessert at Thompson’s! And I swear, their entire wait staff came over to the tables to sing happy birthday. It was the ultimate exclamation mark for a kid lucky enough to spend a summer and birthday on Cape Cod. My eyes are tearing as I write this and a chill just whipped through my body. Ahh, Thompson’s Clam Bar, a true lost treasure that I have not thought about for a long time until now.

Taking you back to the good old days, when kids went back to school after Labor Day, and a tower of fried clams, fries, rings and slaw ran you only $9.99. Let’s go to Thompson’s Clam Bar!

“Hey, where you going, 

I’m going to Thompson’s Clam Bar, 

Because that’s where the tastiest clams are.

Is the seafood good?

The best by far,

Lets go, to Thompson’s Clam Bar.

Take route 28 to the clam bar sign,

For the happiest eating from noon to 9,

At Wychmere Harbor in Harwichport,

That’s where you’ll find Thompson’s Clam Bar.

Hey, where you going,

I’m going where the tastiest clams are,

Thompsons, Where?, Thompsons Clam Bar, in Harwichport!”

What is your favorite Cape Cod memory of yesteryear?