The boardwalk snakes through the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
A hidden oasis of tranquility lies in a kettle hole incredibly close to the wild and roaring Atlantic Ocean. To find it, head to the Cape Cod National Seashore in Wellfleet and follow the signs to the [ancient] Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail (1.1 miles).
Signage tells you everything you need to know. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
A gentle, relatively flat packed dirt trail surrounded by woods descends deeper into the seaside canopy. Just across the sandy Wireless Fire Road is a trailhead for the boardwalk loop (0.5 miles) that snakes its way through the dense, mature growth of white cedars in all types of sizes, shapes and positions. The packed vegetation – ferns, moss, red-tinted standing water – creates an eerily quiet scene despite your nearby proximity to open ocean, breaking waves and offshore gusts.
Twisting and turning boardwalk loop. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Other than a few benches to complement the boardwalk, there is nothing but wild as far as the eye can see. In fact, other than the parking area and restroom building, there is only nature as far as the eye can see. Period. The other side of the parking lot features a scenic overlook with interpretive signs and historical markers of the former and original United States Transatlantic Wireless Telegraph Station built in 1901-1902.
Dirt, sand, wooden planks; all types of surfaces in route to the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Nature, history, scenic views, sandy fire roads, parking and drumroll please, no admission fee.
The tile mosaic at 631 Main Street, Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
Four* letters A, P, B and F, respectively, affixed to the (ground) entrances of 631 Main Street, Chatham are creating quite a buzz in town about preserving local history, no matter the size, style or scale. And for good reason.
*really just two lettersare creating the buzz
Those four letters represent almost 90 years of occupancy by just two businesses at 631 Main Street in downtown Chatham. Those two businesses – the Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company (better known as A&P, the American chain of grocery stores that operated from 1859 to 2015), which occupied the building “sometime before WWII” until 1959; and, local Ben Franklin “five and dime”, which moved in thereafter until closing its doors in 2025. The building was erected in 1925, so indeed, a century of entering and exiting.
The letters B and F appear on the ‘faux mosaic’ at 631 Main Street, Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
The A&P tile mosaic has withstood the test of time (though it was “protected” by a black rug for years) and represents a design reminiscent of the popular Art Deco style of the 1920s and 1930s, hence the desire to preserve. The BF initials are not featured as glamorously and are in far rougher shape, though the design attempts to mirror the A&P mosaic. Perhaps BF can be referred to as a “faux mosaic” for comparison purposes.
An application has been filed by Lilly Pulitzer to relocate to the vacant 1925 building from a different location on Main Street. Will LP be the next initials affixed to the (ground) entrance? Only time will tell.
The currently vacant 101-year old building at 631 Main Street, Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Happy trails at the trailhead! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
In summer 2025, a new recreation trail opened in the wooded area that surrounds the busy boatyard of Ryder’s Cove in Chatham. That trail is named the Marconi/RCA Wireless Conservation Trail, and it is the perfect setting to sit and sip a beverage of your choice.
The kiosk at the trailhead provides a history lesson. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Given that the trail is quite short (3 acre parcel), practically, it’s more of a pocket park, with a kiosk providing detail of the historic nature of the site and some seating. It also leans into the areas history; it was a recreation area for the staff of the Marconi-RCA Wireless Receiving Station from 1914 until the 1990s.
The wide and gentle terrain trail leads to the overlook. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Along the trail, there are benches and a picnic table to sit and sip, with most spots overlooking the moored boats bobbing gently in ever changing tides.
Not surprisingly, my choice of beverage was hot coffee, on a chilly late summer morning. Just across the road, you can pick up the Wireless Trail at the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center grounds, the starting point of a fun adventure – the Antenna Trail Challenge – similarly inspired by the site’s history (and a pandemic).
The view from the overlook. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Back at the turn of the 20th century, the Marconi-RCA Wireless Receiving Station was once the busiest ship-to-shore radio stations anywhere. Still standing at the site are two wireless towers, which now host osprey nesting platforms. Concrete footings of the former wireless transmission site can still be seen at Forest Beach in Chatham (osprey nests, too).
In case you need a reminder why you’re on the trail! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Nowadays, on an average day, Ryder Cove is busy to say the least. But on an average summer day, buckle up, take a seat, sip and enjoy the show!
There are no shortage of coffee shops in most Cape Cod towns. This fact is particularly true in Chatham, the home of what might as well be called the Ultimate Coffee Clatch. Why? An elite roster of heavy weight roasters are found in every corner of town. Let’s take a look.
Classic cars on Sunday mornings at Chatham Cookware Cafe. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Perhaps best known as the classic car hangout on Sunday mornings, the coffee brewed is Beanstock, locally roasted in Eastham. Pair the coffee with sandwiches to go, and enjoy quite an efficient way to start your day.
Express lane at Chatham Perk. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The home of the most affordable cup in town, a large coffee registers for under $3 (at the Chathamport location). The coffee brewed is Cape Cod Coffee – and they also operate Cape Cod Coffee on Main, a long time/former coffee shop featuring a welcoming front yard patio, near the White Marlie store. In the summer months, the Chathamport location offers a grab and go outside on the patio (drip coffee and pastries only).
The long-time home of a long-closed jam shop, this premium roaster offers a “Central Perk” type coffee house vibe – ” a gooey, groovy, community cafe,” – with pricey coffees (drip is $5+ for the smallest size). Their food creations are paired with locally made jam, their jam, with names like Strawberry Field, Blueberry Thrill and Stairway to Bacon.
Seating in a swimming pool! Photo credit Jeff Shaw.
This coffeehouse and cacao factory is located in a former swim club. The brewed coffee is Three Fins Roasters, with a seemingly endless menu of beans to buy and seemingly growing wholesale program.
The Chatham location seating area is actually in the former swim club’s old pool. The uniqueness comes from an equal commitment to a chocolate-making side hustle – “chocolate’s that’s good for you. ” They also operate a coffeehouse and roasters in West Dennis.
The former Emmabelle’s Cafe, former Chatham Village Bakery & Cafe is now a breakfast, lunch, dinner and wine bar. They roast their beans daily at their facility on Cape Cod. But prepare to dish some dollars. A cup of drip coffee starts at $4+; a breakfast sandwich on a buttery croissant is $17. They also operate locations in Hyannis and Osterville.
Located [in a closet] diagonally behind the Chatham Squire, the Expresso Bar operation is quick service in a quiet garden off the main drag. The hideaway location is perfect to sit and sip. They also operate a Coffee House in Brewster and Roastery in Sandwich.
The bridge to Ridgevale Beach, Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
The first day of the New Year was a morning of firsts – welcomed by a perfect blanket of freshly fallen, sparkling snow. Now that may not seem all that special, it is winter after all, but waking up to a snow covered landscape – on January 1st – on Cape Cod – was a personal first. But the snow covered scenery didn’t stop there; a trailing winter gale blasted another 2-3 inches late-morning.
Most people do not enjoy shoveling snow. But on Cape Cod, receiving enough fluff to necessitate shoveling is quite the novelty experience. Trade your five and dime plastic sand shovels for a metal bladed Snow Blaster 2000. It’s an odd feeling. I can also report that boogie boards work just as well as sleds or tubes for a little chilly downhill slide.
Looking West towards Cockle Cove Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Once the storm subsided, the call to the ocean was too loud to ignore. An unplowed parking lot greeted me. The beach was empty; raw; cold and otherworldly from its peak summer, jovial appearance. The wind was still swirling, biting any and all exposed skin. The landscape desolate.
The snow was considerably lighter than most coastal storms. There was no crunch underfoot, even sand was revealed on my boot tread. I trudged to the shoreline against the wind.
Is it the Arctic Circle or a Nantucket Sound-facing beach on Cape Cod. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
But just as quickly as the winds were gusting, the light was changing. Gray skies slowly gave way for purples and blues. A bird flew overhead. The wind quieted. The storm was moving on.
The gift left behind was the uncommon ability to break trail in an actual winter wonderland, snowshoes optional.
The snow covered dunes with Bucks Creek Bridge in the distance. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
