Gardens in bloom with an administrative building in the background. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
By Jeff Shaw
I’ve always noticed a large brown ‘historic attraction’ sign along Route 6 – the Mid-Cape Highway near [former] Exit 2. It reads Heritage Museums & Gardens and that sign should probably have blinking lights, a spotlight or one of those inflatable air dancers to emphasize the joy that is the Heritage campus.
Heritage Museums and Gardens is bustling in the summer, shoulder seasons (Halloween Spooktacular!), and even the winter. Their annual Gardens Aglow – light displays throughout the gardens, festive seasonal decor and fun activities for all – sold out in mid-November.
A map of the grounds. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
It is no wonder this celebration of lights has become a treasured holiday tradition, just listen to this event description: “…visit with Santa in the 1913 Ford Model T…take a ride on the 1908 Looff carousel and view winter scenes from the Currier and Ives collection…roast marshmallows…go on a reindeer scavenger hunt…enjoy seasonal treats from Lily’s Café and Cape Cod Donut Truck…warn up at a fire table…view the expanded model train display.” Talk about a good time.
But I’m not here to talk about Gardens Aglow [frankly, it speaks for itself]. Heritage Museums and Gardens is great choice on overcast days, as most of the attractions are outside, so some protection from the sun is welcome.
A replica train coach of the railroad display in the Special Exhibitions Gallery. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The gardens are impressive, with interesting features mixed-in, such as artwork, windmills, a labyrinth, a garden maze (think corn maze), fountains, a legit tree house, and of course, buildings with exhibits. The indoor, turn of the 20th century historic carousel ride is also a must.
The museums are quite engaging on their own. The two-level classic car showroom; the history of Cape Cod becoming a tourist destination, and more importantly, how to protect it given the massive influx of people, traffic, pollution, development, etc., that accompanies such success.
A wooden bridge near the Maze Garden. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The Hundred Acre School is one of their featured programs. “The Hundred Acre School was created to cultivate young minds using STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Math) as a springboard to multidisciplinary learning.” Full or half day programs are available for Pre-K, Kindergarten, and Grades 1 and 2.
Accessibility is noteworthy. In addition to regular shuttles, the main pathways are paved, with ramps into the buildings. Even the trails, seashell, stone, dirt, gravel, are in good condition for strollers (walkers, not so much).
The labyrinth near the historic carousel. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Oddly, one super random thing caught my eye in the parking lot. Spray paint on the pavement which reads, “Joggers start,” and then twenty yards away, “Walkers start”. It seems a road race begins in the parking lot. I don’t know what it entails, so I’ll have to return to find out.
The markings of a road race in the parking lot. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Another sign this is the place to be – Shawme Pond is part of the grounds!
The Good Friends Cafe in West Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
I don’t know how many times the term, “best breakfast on Cape Cod,” has been typed into a search engine, but if I had to guess, Good Friends Café, West Dennis, would be a top result. (Actually, I just typed that search and guess what, Good Friends Café was #3 on Google.)
To be clear, Good Friends Café has plenty of company friends [restaurant name pun intended] in the category of best breakfast, which, quite frankly, is too broad a category. Breakfast options range from grab and go bakeries to sit-down restaurants to five-star brunches.
Plus, geography on Cape Cod makes long drives for breakfast unlikely. If you live in Sandwich, you’re probably not going to Grumpy’s for breakfast; similarly, if you live in East Dennis, you’re probably not going to Marshland for breakfast. The key joy is checking out these places when you happen to be in the area.
But Good Friends Café has a few unique features which separate itself, enough to warrant special attention.
The menu has some fun creations. Beware, the homemade grilled breads and muffins sell out! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Indoor and outdoor seating (seasonal). Many restaurants expanded outdoor seating during the pandemic, and most have kept it as customers like an open air dining option. It was raining on my visit, but the front patio has a clean, sleek look that is welcoming and comfortable.
Homemade grilled breads. The self-described, “Famous, thick sliced” homemade grilled breads are delicious. My version of eggs benny came with a foundation of homemade grilled cornbread, and I could not get enough of it.
Eggs Benedict on cornbread. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Name board. If your first name happens to be written on the chalk board hanging from the dining room ceiling, free coffee is headed your way. It’s the little things, right?
Open kitchen bar top seating. Not exactly unique, but that section of the dining room is decorated to resemble your friends’ kitchen. The bar top seating is clean, bright and somewhat secluded, so has a neighborhood hangout feel.
The bar top seating and name board that provides free coffee to all Bettys. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Excellent service. Despite a brief wait, customers are welcomed to self-serve coffee while waiting. Similarly, once seated, the wait staff was friendly, answered questions they’ve probably been asked hundreds of times politely, regularly checked on coffee refills and provided updates on when the food would be out. I’m a little disappointed not to be briefed on the staffing schedule the following week, nor the upcoming kitchen deliveries.
It is said that time flies when you’re having fun. That’s pretty much how I felt upon leaving the Good Friends Café.
Chatham boasts 60 miles of scenic shoreline, waterways, harbors and ocean open. Unfortunately, access to all that beach is usually limited given privately owned shoreline. Fortunately, designated landings give the public specific areas to access the water (put-in/out).
While I’m working on a more comprehensive project to highlight these areas, below are a handful worth visiting.
Cotchpinicut Landing, 156 Cotchpinicut Road
Let’s start with my favorite, Cotchpinicut Landing, in North Chatham. This quiet neighborhood provides access to an interesting shoreline down a narrow road (looks more like a private driveway). A small parking lot consisting of concrete blocks provides space for a few vehicles. The shoreline is beachcomber’s dream, with plenty of (intact) scallop and oyster shells. Rows of equally spaced pilings are evidence of a former dock and a collection of kayaks, sailboats, and paddleboards rest neatly on dry sand suggest a popular put-in spot. The landing has a great view of Strong Island the barrier beach.
Trailhead to Stage Harbor Point Landing. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Stage Harbor Point, Next to 326 Morris Island Road
A close second in my book is Stage Harbor Point, located off Morris Island Road. This barely visible sandy path snakes through a surprisingly thickly wooded area in the middle of multiple private homes. The path ends with a stunning view of sailboats moored in the calm waters of Stage Harbor. You can walk along the shoreline to the Morris Island Dyke area, popular for clamming and photographs.
Historic marker at Strong Island Landing. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Strong Island Landing, Next to 197 Strong Island Road
The view of Strong Island is obviously good (it is a short paddle away), but the history of the area makes this landing special. Over 100 years ago, it was part of a former World War I United States Naval Airstation. The patrol base was in operation from 1917-1922 and a stone marker located in a grassy area next to the parking lot provides a brief history.
Parking lot of Taylor’s Ponding Landing. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Taylor’s Pond Landing, Across from 37 Taylor’s Pond Road
A South Chatham hidden gem, Taylor’s Pond provides calm waters to start a paddle into Mill Creek (pass Mill Creek Landing) and onto Nantucket Sound. The large parking area gives way to a wooden bridge to put-in your floatation device of choice. A memorial stone bench reinforces the “hidden gem” theme.
Hidden driveway to Vineyard Avenue Landing. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Vineyard Avenue Landing, Next to 238 Vineyard Avenue
Even I didn’t know about Vineyard Landing until noticing a yellow “no beach access” sign on the actual green street sign and pole off Route 28. While it is true there is no beach access, there sure is put-in access to Oyster Pond. The landing also provides a wonderful view of downtown Chatham (most people don’t see downtown from that vantage point) as well as the Chatham Yacht Basin. Even the broken seashell driveway to the landing is mostly hidden behind a set of tall pine trees.
Water Street East Landing stairway and informational sign. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Water Street East, Next to 144 Water Street
The story of this location is shifting sands (erosion) and development (modern day downtown). As the informational sign will explain, Water Street use to be the center of Chatham (in the 1800s), connecting packet ships in Nantucket Sound and related commerce in Mill Pond. When you hear the term Chatham’s “Old Village,” think Water Street and the surrounding neighborhood. Nowadays, the public right of way offers side street parking for a handful of vehicles. A metal staircase brings you down to the sandy shoreline of Lighthouse Beach.
The Port Fortune Landing is also a fun access point. I will explain why through my Chatham Landings Trail project. Stay tuned!
The only bench along the Old Colony Rail Trail (OCRT). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
Over the summer, Chatham Bikeways Committee Chair Bob Oliver recommended benches be installed along the Old Colony Rail Trail (OCRT). Only a single bench exists along the 4.6-mile route at the intersection of the trail and George Ryder Road, near the Hangar B (a public cafe), leaving weary travelers nowhere to take a break.
Indeed, “not a stone, not a log, not a bench, nothing to sit on whatsoever,” Oliver said. He’s right. I biked the route recently and other than two picnic tables in a grassy area above White Pond, there is no other place to sit along the OCRT.
Currently, the Bikeways Committee is seeking sponsors for at least four additional benches to be installed along the route. Each bench will cost $2,500, with the option of including a memorial plaque. While the price point of the benches ($2,500) is way more than the memorial brick ($150-300) pathway installed in Kate Gould Park last year, I assume a local business and/or wealthy donor will scoop up this wonderful opportunity to enhance outdoor recreation in town.
As for the locations of these four benches; good question. As of this writing, I have not received a response from the Bikeways Committee regarding where these benches would be installed.
However, having used the trail for the last 25 years or so, I have some guesses. I describe my four guesses for the four benches locations as follows: Sure Things; “Yes, But”; and a “Hail Mary”. And for a little fun, I have a bonus guess, which will be called “How Has That Not Been Done Already!”
Once the money is raised (or the Bikeway Committee responds), I’m looking forward to seeing if I’m right or wrong!
Sure Thing #1: Intersection of Route 137 and Route 28 (between Short ‘n’ Sweet Ice Cream and Our Lady of Grace Catholic Church)
Prime real estate for a bench. There is even an ice cream shop next to the parking lot! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The intersection of the trail and Route 137 already received a safety upgrade at the road crossing. Flashing lights on both sides warns oncoming vehicles if a rider, walker or runner is nearby. Additionally, the site has a large parking lot, that also accommodates a food truck at select times. Already on site: a small bike rack, air pressure pumps, garbage cans and a large framed map of the trail in the immediate area.
Sure Thing #2: Intersection at Crowell Road
The OCRT Trailhead at Crowell Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The intersection is already billed as the Old Colony Rail Trail Trailhead (at least on Google maps), so, there should probably be a bench at the beginning/end of the trail. Additionally, there is a large framed map of the trail in the immediate area.
Yes, But: Paved Area Where Trail Becomes Wilfred Road, near Sky Way
The quiet side of the Chatham Municipal Airport (CQX). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
A small paved area at the end of Wilfred Road leads to an emergency access gate along the fence of the airport property. Granted, the area is a little dusty and certainly quiet compared to the bustling side with the Airport Café and Stick’n Rudder Airplane Tours. Still, a bench facing the runway with views of planes taking off and landing would be an enjoyable view while taking a break. Admittedly, the location is less than a mile from the original bench on the other side of the airport, and just down the street from the picnic tables at White Pond.
Hail Mary: Wilfred Road Overlooking Little White Pond, White Pond or Emery Pond
A view of White Pond from Wilfred Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Let’s be honest, a bench is best placed in a location with a scenic view. A few spots along Wilfred Road, closer to Old Queen Anne Road, would provide stunning views of area ponds. However, there is not much ground to secure a bench along the bluff, but it would be a lovely view in a quiet part of town.
How Have They Not Done That Yet!: Veteran’s Field, Paved Area Behind Outfield
The end of the sanctioned route (Veteran’s Field). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Perhaps the most obvious option when you think about it, a bench – or two, or even three – installed on the paved area above (and facing) the outfield makes a lot of sense. First, that’s literally where the OCRT officially ends. Second, there is a large framed map of the trail there as well as a garbage can, so people gather there. Three and most importantly, that is prime real estate for viewing baseball games!
A couple other locations that make sense, but are not as fun as the other guesses are below:
If You Insist#1: Intersection at Volunteer Park extension.
The “four corners” intersection of the OCRT. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
This location happens to be an extension trail to Volunteer Park, a public park with a skateboard park as well as ballfields. Not in view, but across from the extension path is the tennis court at Bailey’s Path, a private neighborhood. Indeed, a lot of action at this intersection.
If You Insist #2: Chatham-Harwich OCRT line.
The Chatham – Harwich line of the OCRT. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
I cannot think of a better way to illustrate being a welcoming community that promotes outdoor recreation than with a bench as soon as people cross into Chatham from Harwich.
Where do you think the benches should be installed?
The Cape Cod Central Railroad scenic lunch train approaches a crossing from the East. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
There are many ways to see Cape Cod – walk, bike, sail, drive, even board a helicopter or airplane. But a lesser-known option, equally enjoyable, is riding the rails.
Back in the 19th century, the railroads, transformed Cape Cod from rural farmland and fishing villages into a summer resort destination. The railroads, not boats and not (yet) cars, were the main (only?) transportation method on and off-Cape. Indeed, in 1910, the Buzzards Bay Railroad Bridge was the first bridge to be constructed (the first versions of the Bourne and Sagamore followed later), which shows railroad travel was indeed the priority.
Today, there are two passenger rail services on Cape Cod; Cape Cod Central Railroad and the Cape Cod Flyer. The former consists of scenic or holiday-themed trains with food service; the latter, more of a commuter line, with many Bostonians trading the city for the beach on weekends.
Bourne Station overlooks the Bourne Bridge above and Canal Bikeway below. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While you may notice an occasional passing train or hear a faint train whistle in the distance, a half dozen train stations are on Cape Cod. If you are a fan of trains, as many in my family are, the stations are worth a visit. So I took my 3-year-old son on a train station tour this month. I never thought train stations, could be exciting, but wow, chasing down the scenic lunch train to view it from multiple stations was a lot of fun!
The Roy Earl Jones, III Bourne Station, Bourne Bridge Road, Bourne
Located directly under the Bourne Bridge, the Bourne Station has a magnificent view of the Cape Cod Canal, with dozens of benches overlooking the waterway and recreational path. There are picnic tables behind the platform as well as public restrooms.
One of a handful of historic sites that comprise the Museums at Aptucxet, the Grey Gables Station was built for President Grover Cleveland, who summered on Cape Cod during his presidency. A cardboard cut-out of the president stands next to the entrance to the station during viewing hours. My son was particularly confused by the small stretch of track in front of the building that went nowhere on either end. A century-old locomotive relic is found adjacent to the parking lot.
Gray Gables Station. Jay wonders where is the rest of the railroad track!? Photo credit Jeff Shaw.
Just a short walk from downtown Sandwich, the historic train station provides close viewing of trains lumbering along the line. Not that long ago, passengers boarded scenic trains at the Sandwich Station, which I recall doing in 2015 (Octoberfest Scenic Train). Somewhat ironically, given the “historic” designation of the station, the platform and awning are both worn out and parking lot lines faded. A raised platform can be found in the distance, but local vegetation has engulfed the ramp.
West Barnstable Station, 2469 Meetinghouse Way, West Barnstable
A bustling area on Saturdays, the West Barnstable Station picks up passengers for scenic trains on Saturdays (in season). The station museum is also open on Saturdays from 9:30am-1:30pm. Plus, a model train station club, located across from the parking lot, does live demonstrations on Saturdays. If you like trains, this is the place to be on a Saturday morning!
West bound trains pass Sandwich Station on the track closest to the station. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Hyannis Transportation Center, 252 Main Street, Hyannis
The beginning or end of most scenic trains as well as weekend commuter service, the Hyannis Station is the literally the transportation center. Just steps from downtown Hyannis and the harbor, the Hyannis station houses Cape Cod Central Railroad, Cape Cod Flyer, regional and private bus services. Connections to the Nantucket Ferry are also nearby.
Falmouth Station, Junction of Route 28A and Route 151 (Enter Shining Sea Bikeway Parking North; 22 County Road/1 Depot Road, Falmouth)
Even Cape Cod Central Railroad staff are careful not to overstate the Falmouth location as an actual station. There is no official address; just the junction of two roads act as the official directions. If you are using GPS, the recommended location is Shining Sea Bikeway Parking North. Nonetheless, a scenic dinner train departs the Falmouth “location” at 5:00pm on July 21 and August 18 only (in 2023). Talk about an unique experience!
The view of the Wareham River from Wareham Village Station platform is simply stunning. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Other Notable Train Stations on Cape Cod
Chatham Railroad Museum, 153 Depot Road, Chatham
Since 1960, the Chatham Railroad Museum, housed in a vacant depot building, has collected thousands of railroad artifacts, including the restored wood-sided red caboose in the backyard. Admission is free, though donations are appreciated. The museum is located across from Veteran’s Field, home of the Chatham Anglers and a short walk from downtown Chatham.
Former Hyannis Train Station, 489 Yarmouth Road, Hyannis
Hidden in plain sight is a former New Haven Railroad Station across from Barnstable Airport. The enlarged white sliding door is an unmistakable feature of this former railroad building. The first-floor awning surrounding the front and left side of the building, plus the location next to the railroad tracks are also “red” flags [train crossing warning pun intended] for the history of this building.
The Buzzards Bay Station platform overlooks the Cape Cod Railroad Bridge. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Other Notable Train Stations off Cape Cod
Buzzards Bay Station, Buzzards Bay Park
The Buzzards Bay Station may as well be named Cape Cod Railroad Bridge Station, because that’s exactly the view you have from the platform. If you are interested in watching the railroad bridge move up and down, just look East!
Wareham Village Station, 290 Main Street, Wareham
Don’t be fooled, Google maps will bring you to a former depot building, that is now outdoor seating for a nearby restaurant (the gated building is home to a dozen or so tables and chairs). The actual Wareham Village Station is located next to the Wareham Fire Department, Ladder 1. The Wareham Village Station has a stunning view of the Wareham River.
