June 2020 – HappyCapeCod

Historic Chatham Outdoor Adventure

Historic Chatham’s banner displaying some of the “stops” on the virtual bus tour. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s note: Earlier this month, Historic Chatham sponsored a free virtual historic bus tour of the town of Chatham to celebrate history weekend. Two 90-minute sessions circled town, featuring stops at several well known (and lesser known) locations, where a local expert (staff or volunteer) provided a brief introduction of the site. Local historian Ron Clark “drove the bus” and did a great job managing the technology and smooth transitions among multiple speakers. It has often been said that Cape Cod’s rich history, maritime, farming or otherwise, is part of what makes it special to many. In that vein, make sure to visit the historical society of any Cape Cod town for information on sites, tours and architecture. You will see Cape Cod in a whole new perspective; some of it hidden history in plain sight!

Chatham Light’s beacon reaches 24 nautical miles. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Historic Chatham Outdoor Adventure

As we ponder more outdoor activities, dare I say adventures, to fill the day, consider your options with historical roots. Even if you missed the virtual bus tour, you can embark on your own magical mystery history tour by foot, bike or car!

Below are a list of locations from the tour, a fact or two, and a call for volunteers and donations to all who are able:

Eldredge Public Library (EPL), 564 Main Street. In 1896, the EPL was a gift to the people of Chatham from native son, Marcellus Eldredge, who was a successful businessman and legislator in Portsmouth New Hampshire, but who retained close ties to his home town. EPL programs are extensive from everything like the availability of daily newspapers, sections for children and young adults, book clubs, classes, and a Friends of the Library, who provide financial support for additional programming.

Chatham Conservation Foundation’s MayoHouse, 540 Main Street. The Josiah Mayo House is home to the Chatham Conservation Foundation, which currently holds 820 acres of conservation land in its portfolio. The home was built between 1818-1820 by Josiah Mayo, a blacksmith by trade, who was Postmaster in Chatham for 40 years and portrays life on Main Street in the 19th century.

The Godfrey Windmill, 125 Shattuck Place. Ever wonder where the term, “the daily grind” comes from? Why the windmill of course! Built in 1797 by Colonel Benjamin Godfrey on Mill Hill (now Stage Harbor Road), at the time, is one of the last of the town’s grist mills to be built. It was relocated to its current Chase Park location in the 1950s. Not only is the Godfrey Mill open to the public, once a year volunteers activate the mill and reenact grinding corn meal (visitors help) just as it did in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The 1887 railroad station is free (donations welcome) to visit in the summer. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Atwood School [now the Doc Keene Scout Hall], 224 Stage Harbor Road. The former school has served as the Scout Hall since the 1920s. Unlike many buildings in Chatham, including at least one former schoolhouse, this building has not moved. Instead, the street name was changed – Stage Harbor Road, was originally called Atwood Street.

The Atwood Museum, 347 Stage Harbor Road. The Atwood Museum is home to the Chatham Historical Society that leads preservation efforts and sponsors grant awards for local projects. The property is expansive with both indoor and outdoor galleries and exhibits from everything from the Mayflower’s arrival to World War II to photos of Chatham over the years.

Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge (Visitor Center), 1 Wikis Way. The 7,604 acre wildlife refuge was established in 1944 to provide a habitat for migratory birds. It is renowned for its sand stretching eight miles into the Atlantic Ocean, forming the barrier islands of North and South Monomoy. The Visitor’s Center and Refuge Headquarters is located on 40-acre Morris Island with a beach and short (3/4 miles) trail system loop.

This historic plaque tells the tale of the outdoor antenna trail exhibit at the Marconi-RCA Wireless Museum in Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Chatham Lighthouse, 37 Main Street. The original wood structures built in 1808 consisted of twin lighthouses to distinguish them (and Chatham Harbor) from Highland Light in Truro. The lighthouse has been re-built and moved multiple times over the years. However, the current beacon remains not only one of the most noticeable landmarks in town, but is currently in use for maritime rescue by the U.S. Coast Guard. The current light can be seen 24 nautical miles offshore.

The Marconi-RCA Wireless Museum, 847 Orleans Road. At the turn of the 20th century, Guglielmo Marconi completed two way communications between his 35,000 watt station in Wellfleet and Poldu England, which enabled mariners formerly isolated at sea to be able to communicate with the harbormaster and other boats. The Radio Corporation of America (RCA) acquired the assets of Marconi’s company after World War I and paved the way for modern day communication technology.

The Nickerson Family Association’s Caleb Nickerson House, 1107 Orleans Road. William Nickerson was the founder of Chatham, and this homestead (compound) celebrates the town’s founding family as well as acts as a working museum of life on Cape cod in the early 19th century.

The view northeast from Morris Island, which connects to Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Chatham Railroad Museum, 153 Depot Road. The 1887 railroad station served residents and visitors alike until 1937. A vintage, 1910 wood caboose that visitors can explore, arrived in 1963 to compliment the museum’s collection.

The Champlain Monument, [near] 608 Stage Harbor Road. The rock monument represents the first explorer, Samuel de Champlain, to land in the town in 1606.

Not on the tour, but worth noting in the context of Chatham’s history are the handful of residential properties currently under demolition delays due to the historic nature of the dwelling. Those homes are 26 Cockle Cove Road; 68 Shell Drive, 157 Cross Street, and 233 Seaview Street.

A historic cottage under a demolition delay, which expires August 3, 2020, located at 157 Cross Street. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

While this virtual bus tour was free, many of these organizations are struggling financially through the shutdown caused by the pandemic. Please consider donating to or volunteering for these organizations to help them advance their mission and ensure a bright future promoting the historical assets of Chatham.

To learn more about Historic Chatham and the bus tour, visit www.historic-chatham.org.

PJ’s Family Restaurant-Something for Everyone

It was take-out only at PJ’s Family Restaurant. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: During a recent drive heading east along Route 6 on the Outer Cape, the beautifully sunny, breezy day got me pining for those simple, pandemic-free, lazy summer days. Trying to make sense out of everything happening in our communities, around the region, across the country even throughout the globe, is difficult to say the least. During a moment of escape, and while passing by restaurants, galleries, shops, etc, I realized that my usual haste to score a parking space at the beach — and justify $25 daily pass – I’ve skipped out on trying many of those local businesses that make the area special. With that in mind, I’m going to make amore concerted effort to “stop and smell the roses,” and actually stop and support these local businesses I’ve been otherwise driving by for years. While my spending isn’t going to save any business struggling through the pandemic, perhaps it will provide just a tad more hope in a world that needs all it can get.

PJ’s Family Restaurant – Something for Everyone

After sending a complimentary note to”friends I have not yet met” at the Cape Cod Fun Show andCapeCod.com, I received a delightful response challenging the premise of one of my food reviews. The post in question featured award-winning clam chowder that aligned with my palate. For whatever reason, I’ve grown accustomed to the taste of the robust — I like dark roast coffee, Double IPA brews, and relevant to this topic, thick and creamy clam chowder. Yes, my shadow may as well show my daily calorie count. I grew accustomed to the creamy & thick clam chowder versions of the world, and didn’t give other styles much of a thought;broth-based, tomato based, etc. You can imagine challenging that premise got my attention. It didn’t even take that many words, “I much prefer the version at PJs in Wellfleet–thinner and amazing–they open next month and it’s like a national holiday in Wellfleet!” I had to learn more.

The recognizable sign on the corner of Cahoon Hollow Road and Route 6, Wellfleet. Photo credit: PJ’s Family Restaurant.

According to their website, PJ’s Family Restaurant started in 1971 under John and Dorothy Reeves as a “Dari-Burger restaurant” dedicated to using local, quality products and providing a good value for families. PJ’s started with the usual summer fare of fried clams, hot dogs, burgers, homemade clam chowder and onion rings, and of course soft serve ice cream. In 1993, the menu expanded to include lobsters, grilled seafood, homemade soups (famous Portuguese kale soup), fried chicken, crab cakes and other specialty items. Multiple generations have worked in the kitchen and at the counter, solidifying a local and seasonal following attracted to the fresh meals at affordable prices. The restaurant is now run by Don and Denise Reeves, along with nephew Brian Reeves.

According to local intel, PJs is also a big fave of food TV star Duff Goldman who went to high school in nearby Sandwich. The restaurant has not strayed from its family-focused roots; just ask what the “PJ’s” stands for? The answer; John Reeves’ grandchildren always called him “Pa John,” and over time the family has come to think of “PJ’s” as meaning only one thing: Pa John’s Family Restaurant.

The highly touted clam chowder to go and the buffalo chicken salad. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.

Back to my author’s note. Last weekend, I found myself once again cruising Route 6 east, this time with a destination in mind, PJ’s Family Restaurant. The objective was straightforward, try the “thinner and amazing” chowder. Not surprisingly, food-focused road trips have become a new normal family activity. The plan was simple, order take-out and head over to Mayo Beach to sample the goods while watching the bustling harbor life. It was a good plan, the food stayed warm and the beach parking lot wasn’t too crowded. Even the cars in the parking lot seemed to follow a socially distanced, two open spaces for each parked car, pattern.

First glimpse at PJ’s broth-based clam chowder, the 12 ounce kind. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Knowing what to expect, I opened the container to obvious broth that initially looked disappointing. That was until I dipped my spoon to the bottom to stir up what lay beneath the cloudy surface. Bam! My spoon filled with the fresh clams and an evenly diced potato bounty. For that first bite, the chowder was still steaming, sweet and much lighter than expected considering a generous portion of clam chunks. The lack of creamy base was not missed. Oyster crackers were not needed. Though, oyster crackers were used 2/3 of the way towards completion just to extend the chowder-eating experience.I’m no food critic, so all I can say is, I would definitely order the clam chowder again. Thank you Eric Williams for the laying down this clam chowder challenge!

The hidden bounty of PJ’s clam chowder! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

All soups from PJ’s comes in sizes of 8, 12 and16 ounces and one quart. I opted for the middle portion as my better half had already offered to share the buffalo chicken salad. Good thing, because my mouth was on fire after one of those chicken fingers. Did not expect the heat!Well played PJs, well played.

What is your favorite dish at PJ’s Family Restaurant?

New Beach Rules (2020 Edition)

Signage from the Cape Cod Reopening Task Force. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: As frustrating as it may be at times, I agree with the premise most state government leaders are using to approach the COVID response: it’s better to be safe than sorry. In other words, it’s probably best to approach reopening the economy with an abundance of caution to limit the potential for a surge in new cases, which would likely knock us back into another 3-month lockdown. After all, hundreds if not thousands of lives are at stake.

Aspects of every day life (interactions) have already changed. Simple activities seem foreign; going to the grocery store stress-free, crossing the street regularly when being approached by others on the same side of the road, “going to” a concert via live stream, even declining social invitations that just don’t seem worth the risk. Highly anticipated Cape Cod summer experiences have also been shuttered. There will not be Cape Cod Baseball League, arts and craft festivals, road races, fairs, band concerts, fireworks or parades. Life on Cape Cod is already different.

Shortly after I published “Must Play Beach Games from 6 Feet Away,” Massachusetts Governor Baker released guidance on outdoor recreation, among many other provisions of the reopening effort. I had expected the guidance to keep beaches open, which it does, but with a handful of important conditions. Turns out, much of those cherished beach games are outlawed this summer due to concerns of not being able to maintain social distancing. I assume this declaration was made out of the aforementioned abundance of caution, and not from experience because, again, the beach games mentioned can be played from a safe distance. I swear! Regardless, while the Governor’s guidance is a framework, individual towns that own and manage their own beaches can go farther in their beach rules that limit access – some already have.

This Cape Cod Baseball League (CCBL) mask might just about be the only way to remember the 2020 season – the one that was not. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

New Beach Rules (2020 Edition)

As of 6:00 am on May 25, beaches in Massachusetts were declared open for “passive recreation, which includes siting, sunbathing, and picnicking…” Finally, some familiar semblance of summer. While www.HappyCapeCod.com strives to always find optimism in our topics, previewing the summer beach scene on Cape Cod has been noticeably difficult. Already, the towns of Falmouth and Wellfleet have eliminated or restricted parking to limit crowds to encourage social distancing. These new beach rules – both the Bill Maher (“New Rules”) and the partygoer’s (“the beach rules!”) versions (bad joke intended), need to be promoted and covered (face covering pun intended) for those heading to the beach. Note: The information below has been compiled from Massachusetts COVID-19 Order No. 34 and a May 18, 2020 Memo from Executive Office of Energy and Environmental Affairs, and will likely be updated:

A warning sign stapled to a utility pole in downtown Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Wear a Face Mask at the Beach. When social distancing is not possible, everyone 2-years-old or older without specific medical conditions, must wear a face mask. Face masks will likely need to be worn when walking through parking lots, accessing bridges and staircases, and walking to your spot in the sand.

Groups of 10 People or Less. While ten people per group may seem high, a family with a couple relatives can easily hit double digits. To achieve distance on the beach, the State did suggest that towns consider reduced parking. As mentioned above, Wellfleet already decided to not sell day passes at White Crest Beach. With Newcomb Hollow already a resident only lot, visitors will find slim pickings in Wellfleet. Falmouth is planning for 50% reduction in the number of parking spots available at each beach. Other towns are considering limiting the sale of beach stickers and day passes. All of this means you will need to get to the beach earlier or prepare outdoor alternatives.

Maintain a 12 Foot Perimeter. One journalist captured this notion quite well, “Forget about plopping down near the [beach] entrance, not wanting to lug coolers and beach gear any farther than they have to. Carry less, walk more.” Even lifeguards will have to be six feet apart from one another! While my crew usually sets up shop far away from the staircase, now most people will share that approach.

An update from the town of Wellfleet website. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Limited (if any) Amenities. While snack shacks and food trucks should be allowed to serve folks since they are basically “take out” only operations already, beachgoers may find locked restrooms and garbage cans may even be removed. Similarly, shuttle service is not part of Phase 1 of the reopening, which affects the trolley shuttle at Coast Guard Beach in Eastham and the “Funk Bus” that coves multiple beaches in Wellfleet.

Online Transactions. Cash is not king anymore. From everything from beach parking stickers to take out food, most people will be asked or instructed to pay online. Make sure your smartphone is fully charged before heading to the beach

Beach Games Outlawed – Depends? Saving the best and muddiest issue for last; the State’s reopening guidance is clear that for state beaches, “organized games remain prohibited.” However, the guidance for local beach managers is not as clear. The language reads that beach games “should not be allowed,” though individual towns have the ultimate say. Most towns will likely go further in issuing local restriction, but with law enforcement already limited simply by the number of officers, enforcing social distancing will be tricky. It seems like lifeguards may be in a position to take this on, but that means less eyes in the water, which is not good.

A final thought. The Cape Cod Reopening Task Force recently launched a dedicated website for businesses, town managers, residents and visitors to prepare for future reopening phases. Seasonal residents and vacationers are being welcomed back as long as they commit to regularly a) wash their hands, b) wear masks in public, c) socially distance at least six feet (12 feet on beaches), and d) stay home if they are sick. Visitors are still expected to self quarantine for 14 days through June 8 (Phase 1).