A beautiful shot of the Shack on a still morning. Photo credit: Mark Preu.
If you regularly visit Chatham Lighthouse and take the nearby stairs down to the beach below, you probably know of the seaside “shack” that sits upon the low dune about 1/3 mile away. Known as “Occupy Chatham South Beach,” a nod to the disagreement between locals and the Cape Cod National Seashore over who controls the land, the Shack just celebrated its sixth anniversary in February.
Six years! That achievement is impressive considering how similarly located beach camps, dune shacks, even waterfront homes, have succumbed to storms, tides and shifting sands of the Atlantic Ocean.
The fog blankets the overlook of Lighthouse Beach. On the upper right, you can see a faint circle of light in the fog – that is Chatham Lighthouse – and my ticket back to home! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.Th
Despite originally being erected from storm debris, the Shack has grown considerably in size, features and interest. Downright affection is a better description. The charming decorative touches illustrate community spirit and has contributed to shaping Chatham’s coastal identity.
Some refer to the structure as a “totem,” a natural object believed to have spiritual significance in the community. The Shack was featured by the Chatham Orpheum’s pre-movie visual tour of town, as it has “become an iconic image of the local community.”
While the Shack was definitely established in 2015, the designation by the Chatham Historical Commission might be aspirational. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Signs have been added over time, and people have carved their names or words into the drift wood. Christmas lights have shined during the holiday season powered by a solar panel once; and 1/4 mile extension chord another time. Tom Birch, the shack’s “keeper of the flag,” maintains a stars and stripes presence on the roof. It also has its own shark warning flag, though there are plenty of large signs on the beach that promote shark safety. The Facebook group, Occupy Chatham South Beach, has over 1,300 followers. The Shack was even painted on a whale as part of the Art in the Park exhibit at Kate Gould Park last summer.
The Shack is becoming better known with each passing year. Multiple engagements, selfies, meditations and even parties have occurred at the Shack. For good luck or just to be part of the story, people have left behind an item, ideally natural or native to Cape Cod. There is also a guestbook for visitors to sign. Though, good luck finding it as it is often buried in the sand.
The back of the Shack facing the rolling fog of Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Speaking of sand, recent storms have eroded the coast and knocked down dunes on nearby North Beach Island. The inner shore on which the shack is located is now more susceptible to the Atlantic Ocean.
So happy 6th birthday and/or anniversary to the Shack. May this cobbled together natural wonder bring laughter, peace, and hope to all who pass by. If a collection of driftwood on the shores of an unforgiving Atlantic Ocean can defy the odds of getting swept out to sea, so too can we persevere in the challenges that lay ahead.
America’s tallest granite-only structure resides on a hilly spot near the town center. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
by Mike Shaw
Few landmarks in Cape Cod – outside of the ubiquitous lighthouses dotting the 70 mile peninsula – are as instantly recognizable as Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown. Affectionately known as “Ptown,” Provincetown is best known for its artists, beaches, harbor, tourist industry, and inclusive vibe. The countercultural appeal of Ptown has held steady along with its growth as a tourist destination, becoming more popular as the town hosted festivals and week-long events throughout the year. Over the holidays, I had the good fortune to make several day trips to Ptown and learned more about the town’s rich history and mystique which keeps drawing people back.
But first, a little history of Ptown.
On a clear day, you can faintly see Boston’s skyline from the top of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Ptown is located at the tip of Cape Cod, encompassing about 18 square miles. Surrounded by water in nearly every direction, the town has approximately 20 miles of coastal shoreline. Ptown is bordered to the east by its only neighbor, Truro. About 70 percent of the town’s land area is owned by the National Park Service, which operates the Cape Cod National Seashore. To the north lie the Province Lands, the area of dunes and small ponds from Mount Ararat in the east to Race Point in the west. The Cape Cod Bay shoreline extends from Race Point to Wood End to Long Point, which in turn points inward towards the town, and provides a natural barrier for Provincetown Harbor. All three points are marked by lighthouses.
The fog rolls in during dusk. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
On September 6, 1620, the ship Mayflower set sail from Plymouth, England to a new land, carrying her crew and 102 passengers. About 60 days later, land was spotted off the coast of Cape Cod, far north of their intended destination at the mouth of the Hudson River. Disheartened by their difficult journey across the Atlantic, they sought shelter in Provincetown Harbor.
Though the Pilgrims settled across the bay in Plymouth, the area enjoyed an early reputation for its valuable fishing grounds. In 1727, the Precinct of Cape Cod was incorporated as a township. Ptown grew rapidly as a fishing and whaling center. The population was bolstered by numerous Portuguese sailors, many of whom settled in Ptown after being hired to work on U.S. ships.
Now onto the Monument!
A sign (and future reminder) of the times. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
The Pilgrim Monument was built (1907-10) to commemorate the landfall of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on November 11, 1620 and the signing of the Mayflower Compact, the Plymouth Colony’s first governing document, in Provincetown Harbor. Standing at 252 feet tall, the Monument dominates the town’s skyline and commands reverence and awe from all who gaze at her. By pure coincidence, I actually visited Ptown on the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims’ arrival – November 11, 2020. Without a fault, pilgrim displays adorned all corners of the town as it commemorated this most auspicious occasion. And, being COVID-mindful, all pilgrims wore facial coverings (can’t be too careful!).
According to the Provincetown Museum (link below): Work on the (monument’s) foundation began on June 20, 1907 and was completed on August 8, 1907. The cornerstone of the Pilgrim Monument was laid in an imposing Masonic ceremony on August 20, 1907. President Teddy Roosevelt attended the ceremony and gave the main speech. Roosevelt sailed into Provincetown harbor on the morning of the ceremony from his home in Oyster Bay, Long Island, on the presidential yacht (coincidentally named the Mayflower). Construction was begun on the Pilgrim Monument on June 18, 1908. The first piece of granite, weighing 4,000 pounds, was swung into place upon the foundation without any formal ceremony.
The 252-foot tall monument can be seen prominently from many Ptown neighborhoods. Photo credit: Mike Shaw,
Work continued until November 26, 1908, when it had to be stopped because of bad weather. It was resumed again on April 9, 1909, and continued throughout the rest of the year and into 1910. Ptown marked the official dedication of the Pilgrim Monument on August 5, 1910 with myriad special guests, including President William Howard Taft who arrived that morning on the government yacht Mayflower. The U.S. Government retained the right to use the Monument during wartime. During World War I it was used as a lookout tower and later during World War II it was rumored the tower was used as a testing area for secret communications experiments. The government did not relinquish control over the tower until 1959.
The Ragnar Relay Cape Cod finish line and post-race party was held on the grounds of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Simply put, no trip to Ptown is complete without a visit to the Pilgrim Monument. Fuel up, pace yourself, and ascend the 116 steps to the top where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the town, Cape Cod Bay, and if you’re really lucky, Boston’s skyline. No matter what you can see, take a moment to soak up the significance of America’s tallest granite-only structure and its indelible place in our nation’s history. As locals like to say, when you’ve arrived in Ptown, you’re at the end of the world.
A tired but proud bunch finished in 3rd Place in the mixed submasters division! Photo credit: A kind stranger.
