May 2022 – HappyCapeCod

The iconic Edaville Steam Train in a winter wonderland. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

By Jeff Shaw

Early Cape Cod vacationers were mostly limited to one way to access the Bay State’s salty outpost and sandy shoreline: trains. It is widely known that railroads opened the West to exploration, settlement, expansion and eventually, statehood. The railroad had a similarly transformative impact on Cape Cod, from sparsely populated farming and fishing villages, to a world renown summer vacation destination. President Grover Cleveland would agree. The railroad, quite literally, put Cape Cod on the map.

Even today, trains remains a secret weapon against the growing congestion of cars, buses and trucks around both Bourne and Sagamore Bridges as well as bustling town centers. To skip traffic jam mayhem, consider riding the rails.

The proof, perhaps legacy is a better word, is the Cape Cod Rail Trail bikeway, which largely follows the old railroad bed that once-upon-a-time connected the Cape Cod Canal all sixty-plus miles to Provincetown, with spur lines to a few communities, such as Chatham and Falmouth.

While the original tracks and trains are long gone, train travel still exists to and on Cape Cod. It’s worth checking out!

The Cape Cod FLYER offers weekend train service from Boston to points southeast to Hyannis from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

CapeFlyer

Operated by the Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority, the CapeFLYER is seasonal, weekend train service from Boston and points southeast. The service runs from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend from South Station Boston to Hyannis, with stops in Braintree, Brockton, Middleborough/Lakeville, Wareham Village, Buzzards Bay, and Bourne.

Prior to the pandemic, ridership had been growing steadily since the service launched in 2013. It is little wonder why; service includes free Wi-Fi, wheelchair accessibility, pets and bikes ride for free and oh yeah, no Canal-related traffic delays. As a bonus, reservations are never required and extra coaches are also added for holiday weekends.

New in 2022, the train departs a bit later than past service; 5:42pm from Boston arriving in Hyannis at 8:20pm in time to allow passengers to make the last Nantucket ferry, which departs at 8:40pm.

Service begins next week, on Friday, May 27, Memorial Day weekend. Note: On Sunday, May 29, the service will be free to active military and veterans.

Cape Cod Central Railroad

The Cape Cod Central Railroad offers scenic train rides across 27 miles of track from Hyannis to Buzzards Bay. The scenic train rides are narrated and programs geared toward a mix of adults, children and/or families.

My better half posing with the Octoberfest spread during a fall scenic train ride.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw

The headlining programs include Cape Cod Dinner Train (fine dining), Sunday Brunch train (family brunch), Polar Express Train Ride (holiday-themed with a visit from Santa Claus). In 2015, an Octoberfest ride was also offered over two weekends. To the surprise of some, Cape Cod has a fall foliage, too!

Edaville Family Theme Park

Just off-Cape in Carver, Edaville Family Theme Park operates a Steam Train. It’s probably been three decades since I’ve been on ‘Engine 5 or 21 or ‘insert number here’, but recall it was nothing short of magical in December, especially with snow on the ground. Indeed, as seven or eight-year-old, I was captivated by the wooden figurines of holiday characters; Frosty the Snowman, reindeer, elves, and of course Santa Claus, lining the snowy woodlands along the tracks.

*The author playing conductor prior to riding the Steam Train in a winter wonderland at Edaville, circa 1988. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.*

So next time you are mulling a Cape Cod adventure, head to the train station. It feels good to acknowledge Cape Cod’s transportation past, by supporting its railroads of the present and future.

May 19, 2022

by Jeff Shaw

A few months ago, the Cape Cod Chronicle published a list of all twelve Chatham landmarks on the National Register of Historic Places. Familiar locations include Chatham Lighthouse & Coast Guard Station, Eldredge Public Library, Marconi-RCA Wireless Receiving Station and the Chatham Railroad Museum & Depot. Locals and regular visitors would also recognize the old Calico Cat Building, one of the more unique buildings in Chatham’s Old Village Historic District.

But there are also lesser-known historic gems worth a visit. Some of these locations are actually hidden in plain sight, while one will require a boat ride and pre-approval to visit. Here you go:

Half Way House

“Perhaps the most unusual of the town’s National Register listings, the Half Way House, was originally located off Andrew Harding’s Lane along Chatham Harbor [near Chatham Lighthouse]. The small shed was used by members of the U.S. Lifesaving Service as they patrolled the beach; it was called the “Half Way House” because it was halfway along the patrol route. It was also probably used as a shelter by shipwrecked mariners. The town’s historic inventory form lists the date of construction as around 1870. It was moved from Chatham Harbor to Forest Beach when threatened by erosion in 1991. The privately-owned shed is now used for storage and was added to the National Register in 1978.”

For the Chatham Marconi Wireless Antenna Challenge fund-raiser, I created a 5-mile running route beginning at their historic campus and ending at the old transmission site at Forest beach. It recently dawned on me having completely overlooked the Half Way House! Finishing in front of the 1870 structure would have been equally as [historically] satisfying.

Location: Forest Beach (west side of parking lot)

Godfrey Grist Mill

“Built in 1797 by Col. Benjamin Godfrey, a Revolutionary War officer off Stage Harbor Road, it was moved to its present site off Shattuck Lane, at the rear of Chase Park, in 1955 after it was donated to the town by Stuart Crocker. The mill has undergone numerous restorations and is historically authentic. During the summer, a crew of volunteers give tours and grind corn, just as the mill has done during its 225-year history. The mill was added to the National Register in 1978.”

Located between downtown Chatham and Oyster Pond, Chase Park is somewhat tucked away in the middle of a residential neighborhood. You can easily miss it when driving along Cross Street. It’s worth a stop.

A few years ago, I coincidently found myself in the park during a windmill demonstration. Indeed, my appreciation grew for living (well, surviving) in colonial times after seeing the windmill in action. Indeed, good things take time.

Additional notes about Chase Park: a labyrinth is located in the far end of the park (behind the windmill). Also, across the windmill parking lot is a bocce or croquet lawn open to the public. Chase Park also hosts a variety of seasonal craft fairs and other outdoor events.

Location: Shattuck Lane, Chatham

Monomoy Point Lighthouse

“Originally established in 1823, the existing lighthouse and keeper’s house were built in 1849 near the south tip of South Monomoy Island when it was a thriving maritime community. The lighthouse was deactivated in 1923, and came under ownership of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service with the creation of the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge in 1944. It underwent extensive restoration in recent years and solar power was added. The keeper’s house is used by the refuge to house summer interns monitoring the island’s extensive tern colony. It was added to the National Register in 1979.”

Admittedly, I’ve never set foot in, on or around Monomoy Point Lighthouse. I have passed it by boat over the years and always read articles about the various summer programs maintaining, staying (overnight) and surveying the area. There is something awe-inspiring of having a seat at the end of the [Cape Cod] world, where the rowdy seas of Nantucket Sound and the Atlantic Ocean meet.

Location: Southern Tip of Monomoy Island

*The backyard of Chatham Railroad Museum and Depot at sunset. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.*

Other locations hidden in plain sight:

Port Royal House

Location: Downtown Chatham, next to Seaview Street

Brick Block

Location: Downtown Chatham, next to Chatham Bars Avenue

Mercelia Evelyn Eldridge Kelley House

Location: 2610 Main Street, South Chatham, near Morton Road

Louis Brandeis House

Location: Judges Way, off Stage Neck Road (off Cedar Street), Chatham

Finally, while not listed on the National Register of Historic Places, a dozen or so additional historic landmarks can be found in Chatham. Historic Chatham is another good reference.

May 9, 2022

Month: May 2022

Train Travel on Cape Cod

Dozen National Register of Historic Places in Chatham