Jeff Shaw

Banana Peel Caper in Sandwich

The “Fruit Loop” roundabout in South Sandwich. A fresh banana peel (center), fresh apple core (right), and rotting banana peels (right) illustrates some monkey business.

Author’s Note:

Regular readers of www.HappyCapeCod.com may notice the occasional pun is, often sprinkled, albeit unnecessarily, into posts. Puns are good for a cheap laugh, and I’m a firm believer that you can’t have enough humor, lame as the attempts may be.

The story below is intentionally littered with puns, most not original, some forced, but appropriate in context of the fruity topic. See if you can catch them all in this a-peel-ing Cape Cod mystery!

A Banana Peel ‘Caper’ in Sandwich

We can all agree littering is bad. Trash is an eyesore, garbage is often gross and worse, carelessly discarded items can be harmful to wildlife and the environment. That said, tossing the occasional, biodegradable fruit peel on the road can’t be that bad, right? Wrong!

In 2013, a roundabout, the slower, one-lane circular cousin to the larger rotary road enhancement, was installed in South Sandwich to improve safety on a heavily traveled Upper Cape road. Known as one of the most hazardous intersections on Cape Cod, the Cotuit Road/Harlow Road intersection was in line for safety improvements. Yet, according to an article in 2012, the roadway redesign proposal got mixed reviews. One resident called the $900,000 project a “boondoggle.” Another said the roundabout was “barely big enough for her Toyota Camry.” Though a third, perhaps more optimistic neighbor, thought it was “an upgrade” to the harrowing intersection.

Fresh banana peels rest peacefully in the “Fruit Loop” roundabout. Photo credit: Gene M. Marchand.

Fast forward to 2021. The town of Chatham is nearing completion of a similar roundabout project along busy Route 28, with a familiar bunch of mixed reviews. However, unlike the 2013 Sandwich Roundabout, which was completed ahead of schedule, the Chatham Roundabout project has been marred by delays and is still only now nearing completion despite receiving approval ten years ago.

After the Sandwich Roundabout opened, people started to notice banana peels in the circular center. Evidently, a bunch of banana peels is a more accurate description. In a recent Cape Cod Times article, the Sandwich Public Works Director described the intersection candidly, “I believe you are referring to our illustrious roundabout, aka, the “Fruit Loop,” to some locals, or the “Bane of My Existence “as I prefer to call it!” The director went on to say, “while the first 1,000 banana peels thrown may have been somewhat comical, it has gotten very old and turned into an eyesore.” An una-peel-ing situation, for sure!

A Sandwich Enterprise article provided more details about the frequent drive-by peelings. “On any given day, there may be 10, 12, or more peels littering the circle. Some are yellow in color, signifying their recent disposal into the circular center of the roundabout, and some are brown from rotting. In addition to peels there has been at least one anecdotal report of a spiral ham being tossed onto the traffic circle, as well as sightings of orange peels and apple cores.” As local storyteller and adventurer extraordinaire Eric Williams reflected, “this distressing banana news was hard to digest.”

A soggy Fruit Loops was the final resting place of an apple core (center left) as well as a half dozen rotting banana peels. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

But why bananas? Was it because it is easy to throw a banana and split? The answer may require a side trip to the Outer Cape.

Bananas have a unique place in Cape Cod history. Lorenzo Dow Baker was born in Wellfleet in 1850, later becoming a sea captain who pursued profits in the tropics. In 1870, he brought a party of gold prospectors to Venezuela. On the return trip, Baker stopped in a Banana Republic (Jamaica location) looking for moneymaking cargo to carry back home. As the story goes, the port master in Port Antonio, Jamaica, suggested an odd-shaped local fruit that was unknown in the United States. That fruit led Baker to found the United Fruit Company, later Chiquita Brands International. Perhaps the banana shenanigans are actually a nod to the impact of the fruit in Cape history.

Theories as to who is behind this monkey business and why abound. The best guess is that an individual who travels through this route daily, eats a banana every day for breakfast while commuting to work. This strict routine results in him, or her, finishing the banana at the exact moment of passage through the roundabout. According to Kristen Long who uses the road to get to work, “There used to be a bucket labeled ‘Bananas’. Though, “No one ever got them in there.”

On April Fool’s Day, 2020, this dancing gorilla brought joy to surprised faces of the Upper Cape community. Photo credit: Karen B. Hunter.

More comical theories suggest the culprit is the person who gets paid to clean up the bananas. The idea is that it would provide job security. If so, that’s a lot of banana peels! An even more humorous theory references the Adam Sandler movie, “Billy Madison,” saying that the peels must have been left by someone trying to “off” the O’Doyle family. In the movie, that family’s car goes off a cliff after driving over a banana peel left in the road.

Maintaining the peels-as-weapons theme, several people suggested that the roundabout was being used to play real-life games of “Mario Kart,” where players of the video game can chuck banana peels on the race track to slow their opponents. Indeed, it is a slippery situation. Local neighbor Nancy Casale wasn’t buying any of it. She noted, “It’s been going on for a while. It’s stupid.”

The most sinister theory is that the peel chucking began as a way for someone to express frustration with the Sandwich Roundabout project. (This bodes poorly for the Chatham Roundabout project mentioned earlier.) Further, Sandwich Police confirm this issue has been ongoing for years, and that numerous individuals are likely participating. As Eric Williams so accurately pointed out, Cape Codders must unite if there is any chance to “Stop the Peel.”

This Sandwich roundabout gives new meaning to the acronym “BYOB.” Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Last spring, a self-described “semi-public person” (official?) in the Upper Cape community dressed up in a gorilla costume and danced around the Sandwich Roundabout. It was April Fool’s Day and, “I wanted to give people a distraction and something to laugh at,” the gorilla said. “All while making fun of the littering that happens at the rotary.”

So, on this one-year anniversary of the dancing gorilla, let us ride our peel-a-tons to fitness goal glory and dream of a better day, when the only Froot Loop is a colorful cereal box.

For those playing “count the puns,” there were 12. Still crazy for banana content? Check out this commercial from Lexus.

Iconic Chatham Seaside Shack Turns Six

A beautiful shot of the Shack on a still morning. Photo credit: Mark Preu.

If you regularly visit Chatham Lighthouse and take the nearby stairs down to the beach below, you probably know of the seaside “shack” that sits upon the low dune about 1/3 mile away. Known as “Occupy Chatham South Beach,” a nod to the disagreement between locals and the Cape Cod National Seashore over who controls the land, the Shack just celebrated its sixth anniversary in February.

Six years! That achievement is impressive considering how similarly located beach camps, dune shacks, even waterfront homes, have succumbed to storms, tides and shifting sands of the Atlantic Ocean.

The fog blankets the overlook of Lighthouse Beach. On the upper right, you can see a faint circle of light in the fog – that is Chatham Lighthouse – and my ticket back to home! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.Th

Despite originally being erected from storm debris, the Shack has grown considerably in size, features and interest. Downright affection is a better description. The charming decorative touches illustrate community spirit and has contributed to shaping Chatham’s coastal identity.

Some refer to the structure as a “totem,” a natural object believed to have spiritual significance in the community. The Shack was featured by the Chatham Orpheum’s pre-movie visual tour of town, as it has “become an iconic image of the local community.”

While the Shack was definitely established in 2015, the designation by the Chatham Historical Commission might be aspirational. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Signs have been added over time, and people have carved their names or words into the drift wood. Christmas lights have shined during the holiday season powered by a solar panel once; and 1/4 mile extension chord another time. Tom Birch, the shack’s “keeper of the flag,” maintains a stars and stripes presence on the roof. It also has its own shark warning flag, though there are plenty of large signs on the beach that promote shark safety. The Facebook group, Occupy Chatham South Beach, has over 1,300 followers. The Shack was even painted on a whale as part of the Art in the Park exhibit at Kate Gould Park last summer.

The Shack is becoming better known with each passing year. Multiple engagements, selfies, meditations and even parties have occurred at the Shack. For good luck or just to be part of the story, people have left behind an item, ideally natural or native to Cape Cod. There is also a guestbook for visitors to sign. Though, good luck finding it as it is often buried in the sand.

The back of the Shack facing the rolling fog of Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Speaking of sand, recent storms have eroded the coast and knocked down dunes on nearby North Beach Island. The inner shore on which the shack is located is now more susceptible to the Atlantic Ocean.

So happy 6^th birthday and/or anniversary to the Shack. May this cobbled together natural wonder bring laughter, peace, and hope to all who pass by. If a collection of driftwood on the shores of an unforgiving Atlantic Ocean can defy the odds of getting swept out to sea, so too can we persevere in the challenges that lay ahead.

Tower Tour Part 2: Pilgrim Monument

America’s tallest granite-only structure resides on a hilly spot near the town center. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

by Mike Shaw

Few landmarks in Cape Cod – outside of the ubiquitous lighthouses dotting the 70 mile peninsula – are as instantly recognizable as Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown. Affectionately known as “Ptown,” Provincetown is best known for its artists, beaches, harbor, tourist industry, and inclusive vibe. The countercultural appeal of Ptown has held steady along with its growth as a tourist destination, becoming more popular as the town hosted festivals and week-long events throughout the year. Over the holidays, I had the good fortune to make several day trips to Ptown and learned more about the town’s rich history and mystique which keeps drawing people back.

But first, a little history of Ptown.

On a clear day, you can faintly see Boston’s skyline from the top of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Ptown is located at the tip of Cape Cod, encompassing about 18 square miles. Surrounded by water in nearly every direction, the town has approximately 20 miles of coastal shoreline. Ptown is bordered to the east by its only neighbor, Truro. About 70 percent of the town’s land area is owned by the National Park Service, which operates the Cape Cod National Seashore. To the north lie the Province Lands, the area of dunes and small ponds from Mount Ararat in the east to Race Point in the west. The Cape Cod Bay shoreline extends from Race Point to Wood End to Long Point, which in turn points inward towards the town, and provides a natural barrier for Provincetown Harbor. All three points are marked by lighthouses.

The fog rolls in during dusk. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

On September 6, 1620, the ship Mayflower set sail from Plymouth, England to a new land, carrying her crew and 102 passengers. About 60 days later, land was spotted off the coast of Cape Cod, far north of their intended destination at the mouth of the Hudson River. Disheartened by their difficult journey across the Atlantic, they sought shelter in Provincetown Harbor.

Though the Pilgrims settled across the bay in Plymouth, the area enjoyed an early reputation for its valuable fishing grounds. In 1727, the Precinct of Cape Cod was incorporated as a township. Ptown grew rapidly as a fishing and whaling center. The population was bolstered by numerous Portuguese sailors, many of whom settled in Ptown after being hired to work on U.S. ships.

Now onto the Monument!

A sign (and future reminder) of the times. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

The Pilgrim Monument was built (1907-10) to commemorate the landfall of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on November 11, 1620 and the signing of the Mayflower Compact, the Plymouth Colony’s first governing document, in Provincetown Harbor. Standing at 252 feet tall, the Monument dominates the town’s skyline and commands reverence and awe from all who gaze at her. By pure coincidence, I actually visited Ptown on the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims’ arrival – November 11, 2020. Without a fault, pilgrim displays adorned all corners of the town as it commemorated this most auspicious occasion. And, being COVID-mindful, all pilgrims wore facial coverings (can’t be too careful!).

According to the Provincetown Museum (link below): Work on the (monument’s) foundation began on June 20, 1907 and was completed on August 8, 1907. The cornerstone of the Pilgrim Monument was laid in an imposing Masonic ceremony on August 20, 1907. President Teddy Roosevelt attended the ceremony and gave the main speech. Roosevelt sailed into Provincetown harbor on the morning of the ceremony from his home in Oyster Bay, Long Island, on the presidential yacht (coincidentally named the Mayflower). Construction was begun on the Pilgrim Monument on June 18, 1908. The first piece of granite, weighing 4,000 pounds, was swung into place upon the foundation without any formal ceremony.

The 252-foot tall monument can be seen prominently from many Ptown neighborhoods. Photo credit: Mike Shaw,

Work continued until November 26, 1908, when it had to be stopped because of bad weather. It was resumed again on April 9, 1909, and continued throughout the rest of the year and into 1910. Ptown marked the official dedication of the Pilgrim Monument on August 5, 1910 with myriad special guests, including President William Howard Taft who arrived that morning on the government yacht Mayflower. The U.S. Government retained the right to use the Monument during wartime. During World War I it was used as a lookout tower and later during World War II it was rumored the tower was used as a testing area for secret communications experiments. The government did not relinquish control over the tower until 1959.

Provincetown Museum link: https://www.pilgrim-monument.org/building-the-monument/

The Ragnar Relay Cape Cod finish line and post-race party was held on the grounds of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Simply put, no trip to Ptown is complete without a visit to the Pilgrim Monument. Fuel up, pace yourself, and ascend the 116 steps to the top where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the town, Cape Cod Bay, and if you’re really lucky, Boston’s skyline. No matter what you can see, take a moment to soak up the significance of America’s tallest granite-only structure and its indelible place in our nation’s history. As locals like to say, when you’ve arrived in Ptown, you’re at the end of the world.

A tired but proud bunch finished in 3rd Place in the mixed submasters division! Photo credit: A kind stranger.

Lost Restaurant Series: Lobster Claw Restaurant

The final days of the Lobster Claw Restaurant following a 51-year run. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

“At the Lobster Claw Restaurant, great dining by the sea, at the Lobster Claw Restaurant, we’re one big family!” That catchy radio jingle captures, perhaps whimsically, the essence of the iconic seafood restaurant off Route 6A in Orleans.

For fifty-one years, Don and Marylou Berig owned and operated the award-winning Lobster Claw Restaurant, a “true Cape Cod tradition,” and staple of dining on Cape Cod for year-round residents and visitors.

At the beginning, the restaurant only had one dining room where reheated frozen fish was served on paper plates. When the Berig’s took the reins, they promptly opted for using fresh fish and real dishware, the former due to their familiarity with the fish business.

The menu certainly evolved, with namesake lobsters literally at the center. The menu promoted Broiled Lobster, Lobster Newburg, Deep Fried Lobster and Baked Stuffed Lobster. They also offered an early bird special with complimentary chowder and dessert with selection of an entrée.

A lobster roll, fish n chips and chowder “to go.” Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Like in most restaurants, a typical day began at 6:30 a.m., cleaning and setting up the dining room. By 7:30 am, deliveries arrived, some included over 100 pounds of fish, which Don cut up himself, which he had been doing since age 12. The lunch crowed arrived at 11:30 am and night owls closed down the place around 9:30 pm. Though, the Berigs were known to stay open if someone called and said they were on their way.

From Route 6A, the red exterior of the barn-shaped structure was hard to miss. Once inside, the nautically-themed interior dining rooms where fishing nets hang from the ceiling was hard to forget.

Don and Marylou were the cooks, cleaners, accountants and faces of the Lobster Claw Restaurant. But three generations of Berigs worked at the restaurant over the half-century. One hostess was employed at the restaurant for half a century. There were also more than a dozen workers from Jamaica who worked at the restaurant for years.

Ordering from the “left side” of the menu included complementary chowder and dessert during the early bird seating. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

At its peak, the 6,695-square foot restaurant had three dining rooms downstairs and the Surfboat Lounge upstairs. Normally 221 can be seated downstairs and 67 upstairs. In its heyday, the restaurant fed 500 people a day.

When Hurricane Bob hit the Cape in August 1991, the Lobster Claw was the only restaurant open in seven towns. The Lobster Claw staff ended up feeding 800 people over the course of a few days.

Some of the Lobster Claw accolades include “Best Family Restaurant,” “Best Lobster Roll” and “Best Clam Chowder” from Cape Cod Life Publications between 1994 and 2018. The restaurant also won “Best Fried Clams” in 2010 from Best of Boston.

A freshly cleaned and set nautical-themed dining room. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

Don credits the success of the restaurant to three things: cleanliness and décor, excellent food, and great employees. Berig was a self-described people person – and old school. Don was a natural tending bar, behind the boat-shaped bar, serving up Dewar’s Scotch, a favorite with the older crowd.

In his reflections at retirement, Don never felt running the restaurant was a job in the negative sense. “Exhaustion, surely,” he admitted. Running the restaurant was his life’s work; a labor of love.

Don and Marylou Berig operated the Lobster Claw Restaurant for 51 years. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

The Lobster Claw closed its doors on September 13, 2020. A medical center is expected to occupy the building.

Tower Tour Part 1: Jenny Lind Tower

By Mike Shaw

The narrow footpath to the mysterious Jenny Lind Tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

“I’m going on an adventure!” Just one week before Christmas, and channeling my inner Bilbo Baggins (you know, for the kids), I decided to take advantage of a (voluntary) two week self-quarantine to explore part of the Outer Cape which could provide a memorable yet socially distant experience. Upon receiving a suggested itinerary from my brother, Jeff (editor and founder of this very website), I hopped in the car in Chatham and worked my way east along Route 6 to North Truro. Besides the well-marked Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod, I wasn’t familiar with the expansive list of sites located along this historic highway. These spots are readily accessible to the public yet seemingly hidden from those visitors unaware of the rich history of this “bent elbow jutting into the Atlantic.” The destination: Jenny Lind Tower, a stone tower located within the Truro Highlands Historic District and nearby the North Truro Air Force Station.

A view of the Jenny Lind Tower in the distance from Old Dewline Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Before hitting the road, I conducted a preliminary Google search to confirm what the Tower looked like to expedite my upcoming quest. Directions for the approximately 30-mile journey from the Lower Cape are straightforward: take Route 6 East towards North Truro, right on South Highland Road, right onto Old Dewline Road, and Tower is on your left. Simple, right? While these directions are certainly accurate, it’s best to consider the old adage that “the devil is in the details.” Once on foot from Old Dewline Road, the walk towards the Tower among the surrounding woods is quite pleasant. At the end of Old Dewline Road, in addition to the sprawling grounds of the Payomet Performing Arts Center on the right, you’ll find three trails on the left as possible options to reach the Tower. Now the fun begins!

The National Park Service signage of the area. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

As it’s not initially obvious which path leads towards the Tower, I’d like to announce a spoiler alert! Based on my own experience, the second path (or “Door Number Two”) appears to be the best option to reach the Tower. The first path leads to a dead end road which is currently home to a maintenance facility, and the third one brings you towards the Air Force Station which is (unsurprisingly) restricted to U.S. Government personnel. While the second path is a tad uneven and gently rolls up-and-down, it will bring you alongside the secure fence of the Air Force Station, and the Tower will appear much closer to you along the Western horizon. Surrounding the Tower is a wooded area which, at first glance, doesn’t appear to have a clear footpath for those making the trek. After several failed attempts, I slowly walked along this wooded area and discovered a narrow path wide enough for one foot at a time; literally. Within three minutes (and after being whacked a few times by tree branches), I found myself at the base of the Tower and immediately marvelled at its simple yet unmistakable beauty. While it may lack common tourist features, like a Welcome Center, signage or gift shop, a fascinating history surrounds the Tower and the woman after which it is named.

A view from the first floor looking up into the well-worn inner walls. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

Based on myriad open sources, Jenny Lind was a world famous, Swedish-born soprano singer who toured throughout the United States in the mid-19th century. According to a January 2017 publication on CapeCod.com: “It is around this time that Lind’s connection to Cape Cod begins. Though she would not step foot on the peninsula, the tower that bears her name is indeed intertwined with her legacy. In early October of 1850, Lind would perform a show in Boston at one of the largest auditoriums in New England at the time. The popular myth is that the concert Jenny Lind performed at the depot in Boston was oversold with countless fans being left outside of the auditorium. These fans were understandably angry and were on the verge of causing a riot. In order to quell the masses, Lind is purported to have stepped out into one of the two stone towers of the building and sang to the crowd from one of the turrets.” (Link to January 2017 Cape Cod.com publication: https://www.capecod.com/lifestyle/the-story-of-the-jenny-lind-tower/)

A rotted wall (or doorway?) on the first level of the tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

While this historical account may never be proven, it’s hard not to be captivated by the notion of someone using innate gifts and talents to defuse a potentially dangerous moment for the masses – in fact, total strangers – gathered below. As I learned more about Jenny Lind’s story, it turns out that she encountered some competition from another bit of Cape Cod folklore. According to Bellamy’s Bride: The Search for Maria Hallett of Cape Cod by Kathleen Brunele(2010): “Local stories passed down for 300 years say that the ghost of Goody Hallett – known as “the Witch of Wellfleet”, “the Sea Witch of Eastham”, and “the Red Heeled Witch”, and was the lover of Samuel Bellamy, captain of the pirate ship Whydah Gally – haunts the woods of Truro and Wellfleet in central Cape Cod. Her banshee screams can be heard at sunset from the cliffs of Wellfleet as she curses the passing ships to cause them to wreck there as her lover Sam Bellamy did in 1717. Legends say that when Goody Hallett begins her haunting, the ghost of Jenny Lind once again ascends the tower to sing, and the beauty of her nightingale song repels Goody and frightens her away.”

Fitchberg Depot. Photo credit: Boston Public Library. Photo originally posted on CapeCod.com by Christopher Setterlund.

In a mythical sense, more than 170 years after Jenny Lind first rose to fame, one can hope and imagine that her indomitable spirit continues to live on not only within the Tower, but across the surrounding lands which will forever be connected to this distinctly Cape Cod legend.