It was hard not to smile when seeing this sign. Photo Credit: CapeandIslands.org.
Author’s Note: As another summer season draws to a close, I am amazed at just how great the weather has been over the last three months. Every stretch of days I’ve been on the Cape has been near-perfect outdoor weather. (That localized tornado and related $4,000 in tree removal costs notwithstanding.) The summer season always passes by quickly once the Fourth of July comes and goes, back-to-school ads pop-up too early and the bombardment of college and professional football coverage begins. It’s in these moments when that ten minute walk to the beach provides an opportunity to slow down the day just a bit, and by doing so, extend the summer a few moments longer. After all, many of us have summer traditions to check-off our seasonal bucket list.
This past Labor Day Weekend, I was able to finally “check-off” a couple seasonal tradition, including a Chatham Band Concert, brunch at the Optimist Cafe, and the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters (more on that soon!). If you still have a few more “summer to do’s,” there is another option; jump on the “Keep Summah Alive” bandwagon. Many Cape Cod restaurants, businesses and lodging extend their season through Columbus Day weekend. Further, most festivals are held in the fall months, so there are plenty of autumn activities to add to a Cape Cod bucket list. Either way, hop on down!
Most beachgoers had to walk by the tempting smells of Liam’s before getting to the sand. Photo credit: John Ohman.
For 28 years, John Ohman owned and operated the restaurant (named after his first born son) siting upon the high dunes overlooking Nauset Beach. However, the origins of Liam’s goes back much further than 1989.
As early as the 1950s, the wafting smell of fried food, grilled burgers and hot dogs mixed with salty sea air hovered like a delicious cloud around the same weathered snack shack. From the 1950s to late 1980s, Philbrick’s Snack Shack operated out of the same building, on that same piece of land as Liam’s, just steps from the Atlantic Ocean.
The original operator, Philbrick’s Snack Snack, of the snack shack on Nauset Beach. Photo Credit: Margot Parson.
Interestingly, Philbrick’s Snack Shack also sold a lot of hot dogs, as they used the same company that supplied Howard Johnson’s, known at the time for their tasty frankfurters. One Philbrick son, Richard, recalled a season where The Shack sold more hotdogs from Memorial Day to Labor Day than Howard Johnson’s did year-round in their New England location(s). Richard also remembers selling one to one-and-a-half tons of onion rings…a week!
That number was on par with later estimates by Mr. Ohman of Liam’s; the latter employing more staff for a bigger operation. During Ohman’s ownership, the clam shack employed two dozen people, some local, others from nearby states and even Eastern Europe through the J-1 visa program.
Award-winning onion rings makes everyone happy! Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
In 1979, second-to-youngest son, Jeff Philbrick, took over ownership of the restaurant. After 10 years, Jeff Philbrick sold the business to John Ohman.
From 1990 to 2017, Liam’s served award-winning onion rings (as well as many other menu items) on the dune overlooking Nauset Beach. Long-time locals and visitors would describe that award-winning item, not just as onion rings, but as a summer food sacrament. While that description may seem extreme, multiple magazines, newspapers and travel guides featured or selected Liam’s at Nauset for their annual awards.
These magnets are now a prized collection that serve as a reminder of some good times on Nauset Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Sadly, in the winter of 2017, a string of unexpectedly devastating winter storms caused extraordinary high tides and an extreme loss of beach, which threatened Liam’s foundation. This reality led the Orleans Board of Selectman to a 4-1 vote to tear down the structure and terminate Mr. Ohman’s contract with the town to lease building.
John Ohman described his time on the Cape and Nauset Beach as “a magical mystery tour.” He was quoted as saying, “I think it was a magical moment in the history of Cape Cod, where the sea met the tourism industry with a perfect symbiosis of great seafood, all the sealife, whales, sharks – and great music.”
Severe erosion threatened Liam’s foundation and ultimately led to the Board of Selectman’s vote to tear down the building. Photo credit: Alan Pollock.
On Tuesday, March 20, 2018, the building that was Liam’s (formerly Philbrick’s Snack Shack) was torn down. While owner John Ohman did not rule out a return of Liam’s, he also runs Kate’s seafood off Route 6A in Brewster. At least in the short term, the legendary onion rings live on!
John Ohman’s second location, Kate’s Seafood, off Route 6A in Brewster, serves the same quality food, just with a slightly different view. Photo Credit: John Ohman.
Fifteen year old and trusty “Hercules” was built to haul stacks of SUPs.
Author’s Note: With summer temperatures setting records for heat, staying cool has become a priority. Avoiding the heat of the day requires some adjustment in one’s outdoor activity schedule, mainly getting outside early in the morning or around dusk. One outdoor activity that can keep you cool and has ballooned in popularity in recent years on and beyond the Cape, is stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). The over-sized, wide surf boards allow paddlers to cruise above the water’s surface or ride breaking waves while standing, kneeling or siting. It’s a great workout that you may not notice unless you are paddling against a headwind or have not figured out your balance (the latter point will definitely keep you cool with each and every splash).
There are two kinds of SUPs, hard core and inflatable. The hard core boards are better for deep, rough waters, like the ocean; inflatables are perfect for lazy, shallow rivers. Both work in fresh water ponds. When it comes to paddles, all are adjustable, but opt for the more sturdy, one-piece paddle. You’ll want the extra weight of a solid paddle compared to the lighter, easy to pack, two-piece paddle. Always make sure to have a leash wrapped around your foot and a personal flotation device on your waist or chest. Pro tip: keep the leash on the board, rather than in the water; as its drag will slow you down. Lastly, make sure you have the proper sized fins on the bottom of the board based on your activity. If you are paddling in a narrow river, you’ll want smaller fins made for quick turns that won’t scrape the bottom. If you are riding waves, you’ll want longer fins to help keep the board straight while getting pushed around by the waves. Now the more important question, where to SUP on Cape Cod? I got you covered.
A sailboat floats with the gentle off-shore breeze.
Lower Cape
Long Pond (Brewster), Crowells Bog Road, is an enormous fresh water pond (for Cape standards) just off the Cape Cod Rail Trail with a dedicated swim area, small parking lot (parking permit required) and a wide boat landing. Be aware that motorized water craft (boats, wave runners, etc) are allowed on the pond. The motorized boats usual keep their distance so wave action is minimal. To avoid boat-created churn, keep to the edges of the pond or head to nearby Black Pond. Black Pond, next to the landing, is super small, but calm and surrounded by lots of greenery. Pro tip: If you do not have a Brewster parking permit, park in the dirt parking lot for the Cape Cod Rail Trail off Route 124. Parking is free and the walk to Long Pond is only six minutes.
Hana came along for a short lap around White Pond, Chatham.
White Pond (Chatham), Wilfred Road, is a medium-sized, fresh water pond, tucked in between Route 28 and the Chatham Municipal Airport. It’s my favorite spot to paddle.The usually unoccupied pond is surrounded by cottages, moored sailboats, greenery, discarded sheds, tenders and benches. Every thirty minutes or so you’ll see a prop plane taking off in the distance. The off-shore breeze carries you south around the pond’s edge until a clearing appears to the right, with a second secluded pond area. It would appear to be a dead-end, but it is not. In the far left corner, a tiny opening takes you to, what I call, Hidden Cove. Hidden Cove is the fishing spot, as the entrance is concealed, shallow and narrow, keeping most kayakers, ‘SUPers’ and sailboats away. One day on that same water, I was actually inspired to write a poem. The small parking lot is never full and is right off the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
The party house at Goose Pond, Chatham.
Goose Pond (Chatham), Old Queen Anne Road, is tucked away in a conservation area, between Sam Ryder Road and the popular Corner Store. The uneven, narrow, dirt access road is a great way to get the heart pumping before arriving at the landing with a parking lot for barely four cars. The fresh water pond is small-to-medium-sized, with limited parking, but never busy. The red cottages tucked away in the left corner (east) are a throwback to the days when original property owners probably had the pond to themselves. Another house on the opposite side of the pond, fondly dubbed, the “party house,” as a tiki bar, hammock and beach toys are promptly displayed on the water’s edge. The owners have the right ideas as it’s (always) five o’clock somewhere.
The line of reeds acts as a line separating the beach and marsh areas.
Schoolhouse Pond (Chatham), Schoolhouse Pond Road, is one of two fresh water ponds in Chatham with lifeguards. The small pond is a popular beach for young families, and the parking lot fills quickly. Cars without a parking permit park around the bend off Sam Ryder Road across from Schoolhouse Pond Road. To the right of the swimming area, a shallow section leads to a secluded, back pond area “protected” by two lines of reeds, which almost look purposely planted. Thanks to the family-friendly environment, an ice cream truck plants itself in the parking lot.
Tenders await action on the sand.
Meeting House Pond Landing (Orleans), Barley Neck Road, is a salt water pond and active recreational harbor with access to Little Pleasant Bay. Not surprisingly, the departing and arriving boats create a bit of churn in the water, though the scenery of boats gently rolling with the tide, noise of an active harbor, and surrounding marshlands, make up for it. We did come across at least four seals on our journey, one of which kept pace with us most of the paddle. Thankfully, no “fins to the left, or fins to the right,” were spotted. The dirt parking lot provides ample, free parking.
Arey’s Pond Boat Yard (Orleans), Arey’s Lane, is not a GoT Targaryen reference, but a salt water pond and active “hurricane hole” (protected harbor) in Orleans. Owned by boat builder and designer Tony Davis, Arey’s Pond Boat Yard has restored over 300 sailboats, many of them wooden hulls, over 30 years and is the home to many boats awaiting their next adventure or waiting out the next storm. Being pressed for time, I only did a quick lap around (between) the moored (perhaps recently restored) boats, but discovered the snaking channel leads into Namequoit River into Little Pleasant Bay. Parking is limited.
Mid Cape
Hathaway’s Pond (Barnstable), Phinney’s Lane, is a medium-sized, fresh water pond nestled beneath the quiet shade of pitch pines and oak trees. Surrounded by hilly terrain and dense forest, the pond provides a restful atmosphere ideal for families and has a dedicated area to put-in a SUP or kayak. Unique to this pond, sixty feet below rests a purposely sunk 36-foot cabin cruiser (boat) for diving practice for marine emergency responders. Aside from its underwater oddities, the pond provides a beach with stunning views of the surrounding nature preserve and features a biking and hiking path under a natural canopy. Pro tip: It just so happens Cape Cod Beer is located a mere five minute walk from the pond. If you don’t have a Barnstable beach parking permit, you could park at the brewery and walk over. Just make sure to pick up a 4-pack or growler to ensure good karma and support the local economy for this childish parking hack.
The steeple of St. Piux V Church is the landmark for Wings Cove.
Long Pond (Yarmouth), Indian Memorial Drive, is a large fresh water pond tucked away in a residential community in South Yarmouth. There is free parking at Wings Cove, near St. Pius X Church. The pond is surprisingly shallow along the edges, though there are multiple coves that feature interesting sights such as a white gazebo, red picnic tables, shabby docks, parks and of course a heck of a lot of lily pads. Off private docks you will find lots of fun inflatables. The steeple of the church in the distance will guide you back to Wings Cove.
The old pilings can be seen under the water in the foreground.
Little Sandy Pond (Yarmouth), Buck Island Road, is a small freshwater pond, part of the recreation area, complete with softball and soccer fields, basketball court, dog park, and walking trails. The pond is actually super small for a SUP, but, the tiny beach features crystal clear and warm water until a huge drop-off occurs about 20 feet from the shore. Along the left edge of the pond, I discovered a long collapsed and abandoned wooden dock, which was a bit mysterious as the land closest to the remaining pilings is dense woods. I also stumbled upon an odd looking, medium-sized turtle that looked more like a chicken in a shell. Mysteries at Little Sandy Pond.
Middle Pond (Barnstable) Hollidge Hill Lane, is a large fresh water pond perfect for fooling around on a SUP. Try new stances and push the limit of SUP balance. The water is clear, and no motorized powered boats make for smooth water.
Outer Cape
On our way to Gull Pond after a day at Newcomb Hollow Beach, Wellfleet.
Gull Pond (Wellfleet), Valley Road, is a medium-sized, fresh water kettle pond that has an active SUP, kayak and sailboat scene. The small parking lot fills up by mid-morning since there is an active paddle club located at the water’s edge. Parking permits are required from 9-5. There is a dedicated swimming area near the landing, so young families looking for an alternative to the slammed Atlantic Ocean beaches have a refuge. I had a great time at Gull Pond watching my buddy fail at finding his balance for a good thirty minutes.
Upper Cape
Boardwalk/Town Neck Beach, Boardwalk Road (Sandwich), is one of the most popular beaches in the area, with views of boats passing through the Cape Cod Canal. Paddle the lazy salt water river behind the barrier beach, or venture into Cape Cod Bay when the winds are low.
The Sandwich Boardwalk goes over the inlet on the way to Cape Cod Bay. Photo credit TripAdvisor.
Great Pond (East Falmouth/Teaticket), Maravista Avenue, is Falmouth’s largest salt water pond known for SUP fitness and yoga due to the calm water. It is a solid location for those new to SUP.
Calm waters for paddlers and birds.
Great River, located in Mashpee near New Seabury, Will’s Work Road, offers ample parking and easy access to the calm waters of Jehu and Hamblin Ponds, or into Waquoit Bay with access to beaches that you won’t find in any tour guide. Translation, your very own private beach awaits!
Tall pine trees act as a landmark for John’s Pond, Mashpee. Photo credit: Secret Reel.
John’s Pond (Mashpee), Algonquin Avenue, is a large, fresh water pond and picture-perfect location to SUP or kayak with calm waters in a quiet neighborhood. The large, often unoccupied, beach, is unique in that it features two large pine trees at the water’s edge. Lifeguards are on duty and the town offers swimming lessons here.
Just beyond the woods lies Mashpee Pond. Naukabout Beer Company’s outdoor space is impressive.
Mashpee Pond (south basin) and adjoining Wakeby Pond (north basin), Fisherman’s Landing, is the largest fresh water pond on Cape Cod. While motorized water craft are allowed, which may create some wake, the location cannot be better because…the new Naukabout Brewery is located just off the south basin. After a long paddle, relax with a variety of craft drafts and a ton of outdoor games and music. Seriously, the brewery’s outdoor space is like Legoland for adults.
I’ve also heard good things about West Falmouth Harbor; Washburn Island, Waquoit; Mashpee’s Popponessett Spit; and Red Brook Harbor, Bourne. Where is your favorite spot to SUP on Cape Cod?
The motto of the Chatham Squire, “Where friends get together,” says it all.
Author’s Note: There is no better ending to a summer weekend on Cape Cod than catching a Sunday evening Cape league baseball game at Veteran’s Field in Chatham. Recognized by fans and team volunteers as one of three top fields in the league (the other venues being Cotuit’s Lowell Park and Orleans Eldredge Park), there is always a good vibe under those bright lights. In the distance, behind the Chatham Fire Department, the setting sun signals the rush of the day has long passed, and a bounty of colors swirl in the sky amid a gentle salty, twilight breeze. Unique to Sundays, most day trippers and week-long vacationers have vacated the peninsula as they raced to get over the bridges hours earlier. And as fans settle into their seats after the singing of the national anthem, the “crack” of a first pitch fastball hitting the catcher’s mitt can be heard all the way down the first base line. Play ball!
While this scene was replayed on a recent Sunday evening, it was not until the end of the 7th inning when the real excitement began. Oddly, the excitement did not occur on the playing field. Chatham, like all Cape league teams, does a 50/50 and ‘handful-of-prizes’ raffle at the end of the 7th inning to raise money and keep fair-weather fans in their seats for the tense moments of those last innings. The raffle prizes range from harbor cruise tickets, specialty dessert vouchers, restaurant gift cards, and of course, half the cash collected. A few innings before the drawing, “bogey brother” Dan had to leave the game early and tossed his raffle tickets to us on the off-chance one would be a winner. Not only was one of his tickets called, but the prize was friend-favorite, a $50 gift card to the Chatham Squire (and two tickets on a Hyannis Harbor cruise). There could not be a more appropriate raffle prize, given all of our years of patronage. (Yeah, let’s go with patronage.) The best part of the ordeal was the delivery of the prize; kicked-off with a cryptic text message as soon as the envelope was received, followed by a stop at his house for delivery during a family nightcap on the porch. The astonished look of, “you’re joking,” was as glorious as expected. Later it dawned on me that the Chatham Squire donates this same gift card every home game (22 games per season) for as long as I can remember, which adds up to an $1,100 annual donation just to one organization. It’s also a good example of why a 51-year old restaurant is embedded in the fabric of Chatham’s community.
Indeed, a great 50-year run for Richard and George.
Much has been written about The Chatham Squire, as 2018 marked the legendary establishment’s 50th Anniversary. It also marked the last year of original ownership, as Richard Costello and George Payne, who started the restaurant and tavern in 1968, sold the business to Todd Hearle, a Connecticut businessman who grew up in Chatham. Fortunately, the intent is to change little, if anything, with the general manager and executive staff and many floor staff staying on. While it has only been two months since the change in ownership, I haven’t noticed any changes.
These license plates on the east wall of the tavern also says it all!
Now that the news covering the Squire has subsided, it’s as good a time as any for another long-time fan to chime in. Anyone who claims to know “about Cape Cod” surely has spent some time at this iconic Main Street destination. Whether elbowing your way to the tavern bar, listening to live music/trivia/karaoke from the table tops “upstairs,” enjoying a ‘quiet’ dinner in the dining room or getting rowdy in the back bar on a busy summer Saturday, The Squire has it all.
The collection of nearly 500 license plates from around the country along the tavern walls speaks to the come-as-you-are vibe. That diversity of experience is what makes the restaurant unique – plus the chowder is great, steamers do not disappoint, and I always seem to run into someone I know there. Admittedly, in the height of the summer season, it can be total chaos and you may want to avoid the lines and elbows. But during the day time, weekdays and especially shoulder seasons, its the local pub to have a good meal or drink at a good price.
A hearty bowl of clam chowder and a cold draft beer are required starters, if you like that kind of thing.
In addition to the Chatham A’s, the Chatham Squire also supports many community events. The Squire’s logo can be found as a sponsor for First Night Chatham, both spring and fall Harbor Run/Walks (as after party host), on a float in the 4th of July Parade, and through many Chatham Chamber of Commerce events.
Like many others, the Shaw and Healy crews are long time patrons of the Squire – especially in the winter months!
Having spent much of every summer in Chatham since 1983, I’ve put in a good chunk of time at the 487 Main Street property. As a kid, I recall a stern “mind your manners” moment while dining with my parents and grandparents in the main dining room. I remember staring at the ‘swinging door’ that endless hostesses, wait staff and patrons passed through, wondering what was back there.
As it turns out, “food” was behind the swinging door. The swinging door connected the dining room to the kitchen and to the tavern.
As a teenager, I recall catching a bite with my parents and brother in that once buzzing dining room, now nearly deserted, during a winter weekend. Snow was in the forecast, but had not started by the time we were seated. An hour or so later – and oblivious to the wet doormats and howling wind, we walked out into a full blown blizzard! The scene was magical. There were only parked cars on the road, and a handful of brave souls trying to get inside or to their car. the street lights and flood lights of each building illuminated the blanket of freshly fallen snow. As we slowly made our way to the car, wind gusts were swirling snowflakes in every direction on that chilly night.
As an adult, well, there were many nights started, continued, or finished at the Squire. A certain Squire loyalist (not me) also spent an evening of his bachelor party weekend at the Squire and may have been one of the most entertaining nights of my life.
An old photo of The Chatham Squire from the late 1970s. Photo credit: The Chatham Squire.
Perhaps the most memorable experience at the Squire was the pending joy of standing in a 30-person deep line waiting to get into the tavern. It was the Saturday of Labor Day weekend…in 2002…I had just turned 21 years old. Admittedly – and this may come as no surprise – this was not the first time I’ve been in the Squire tavern. Cheers!
What is your most memorable experience at The Chatham Squire?
Author’s Note: One of the simplest joys of summer is none other than reading outside in the warm sunshine. Whether stretched out on a comfy chaise lounge with the newspaper, siting at the waters edge digging your feet in the sand while burying oneself in a book, or swaying gently in a hammock flipping through the pages of a magazine, relaxing by way of reading outdoors is a common summer activity. Truth be told, I look forward to reading an actual newspaper on the patio on a lazy weekend morning. “Push notification” news can wait. I find that reading outside slows down the day, a big plus in the summer. The quieter the space, the better, though I’ll gladly attempt to read among the chaos of a mid-summer day at the beach. I love getting lost in a story. Fact or fiction, reading is informative, can be transformative, and possibly both.
In preparation for an upcoming trip to Bermuda, I’ve packed three paper back books, along with three crossword puzzles from a few newspapers, and a book of codewords (think crosswords without clues). The only time I plan to look at my phone is to take pictures, listen to music (the Bob Marley, Jimmy Buffett, Beach Boys, kind) or capture a thought (note) if a pen and paper are hard to come by.
While there are no shortage of “summer reading lists” for kids on summer break, those of us beyond the years of reading The Great Gatsby, Catcher in the Rye, and Adventures of Tom and Huck, there are plenty of books about Cape Cod to add to your reading queue. Some books are heavy and historical, focusing on the turn of the twentieth century, lifestyles that describe a very different Cape Cod than any of us know. Others are quick reads that leave a grin on our faces. A few stories stay with us long after they’ve been put back on the shelf. I hope you enjoy my top picks to learn more about Cape Cod this summer.
Baseball by the Beach: A History of America’s National Pastime on Cape Cod (1998), Christopher Price. Like a high tide, excitement around America’s pastime first washed over the 339 square miles of Cape Cod’s peninsula over almost two centuries ago. Author Christopher Price takes us back in time to the origins of the “Massachusetts game” (1840s) as well as when the first organized (documented) baseball game occurred on Cape Cod (1866) by The Nichols Baseball Club of Sandwich. Like anything, baseball on Cape Cod evolved from those early, loosely organized teams with rosters consisting of mostly of local players, to the modern day NCAA-sanctioned league it is today. With many future major leagues breaking out – or more accurately, standing out in front of countless scouts in the stands – it’s hard not to get excited about catching a look at the “future stars of tomorrow today.” After long hours on the sand, watching a game from a beach chair on a crisp summer evening is a great way to relax at the end the day. Go A’s!
Cottage for Sale, Must be Moved: A Woman Moves a House to Make a Home(2005), Kate Whouley. The title is not misleading, author and mover extraordinaire, Kate Whouley, bought an abandoned cottage and had it moved across four Cape Cod towns to attach it to her three bedroom house! When thinking about the landscape of Cape Cod, its hard not to think of seaside cottages dotting the coast, a product of a bygone era now replaced with second home, “McMansions” by mostly “off-Capers.”. Not only are cottages authentic, charming, and affordable, they are small enough to actually get lifted off the ground and re-located. That’s exactly what Kate Whouloy did, along with the help of an army of professional contractors, movers, tradesman, friends, family and her trusted cat, Egypt. It’s a delightful read.
Historic Restaurants of Cape Cod (2017), Christopher Setterlund. While Cape Cod is known for breathtaking scenery and some of the best beaches on the eastern seaboard, many visitors come for the food. Fresh seafood is the main attraction given the Cape’s long maritime history. Mr. Setterlund identifies some of the most historic and iconic restaurants on Cape Cod, though sadly, some of them are long gone as original owners retired and preferences changed. However, this quick read features interviews with past owners and general managers that tell trivia worthy tales, like when the late former Senator Ted Kennedy held a fund-raiser at the Cleaver Restaurant, the free raw bar at the Christopher Ryder House, or the time Jay Leno appeared at Tuesday comedy night at Christine’s. And those are just a few stories from restaurants that begin with the letter “C.” Just wait until you get to The Beacon Restaurant, Mildred’s Restaurant, and Thompson’s Clam Bar. You’ll want to drive east for a fresh lobster roll or fried fisherman’s platter after turning a few pages of this book.
Journey to Outermost House (1991), Nan Turner Walden. Without argument, the first thing people picture when hearing the words “Cape Cod,” are the beaches. People spend precious vacation days to sit on the sun-baked sand and bask in the water, not to mention pay exorbitant parking fees and pack an entire house worth of stuff to set-up their spot on the beach. Well, imagine living on that beach. Strike that, imagine living on that beach, located two miles from the nearest town and the nearest person. That is the context for this next read. Despite having not yet read the book author Nat Turner Waldren’s book is based on, it was impossible not to follow her along the sandy shores of the Atlantic Ocean toward the two-room cottage by the sea. (Don’t worry, Henry Beston’s classic is on my reading list.) Nan Turner Walden essentially replicated Henry Beston’s life-changing experience of living in isolation on the “Great Beach” of Cape Cod, two miles from the mainland (Eastham). As the author re-discovered the natural world by detaching from the modern world, she spent so much time at the house she eventually “bested” Henry Beston’s one year of living on the beach to her seven years. Years later the Outermost House was gifted to the Massachusetts Audubon Society and can be rented by anyone seeking a similar experience, albeit, shorter than that of Henry and Nan.
Voyages from Chatham: A Memoir (2016), Captain Bob Ryder. There is something captivating about life on the sea. Perhaps it’s simply the adventure, the unknown of what lurks beneath, or the wonder of what could be discovered in the distance. Whales breach, birds dive, seals pop up and have a look around, herring “run,” waves form, wind blows, tides change. The constant churn is what makes us respect the ocean and have a ton of respect for those that spend their lives on it Indeed, the ocean is the workplace of old-time (and I suppose some present day) pirates, but more importantly, modern day fishermen who make their living from their daily catch. Captain Ryder, whose family has a cove named after them in Chatham, describes a career at sea, encountering almost any and every situation you could possibly think of – and more. After reading some of his adventures and mis-adventures, it’s hard not to look at the seafood on our plates with a different perspective. If you see a fisherman, thank them.
What other books about Cape Cod would you recommend reading?
Antigua Galley Bay Croquet Club members, Kat, Jeff, Matt and Matt pose after a casually competitive evening croquet match.
Author’s Note: There are moments in life when you “re-discover something” and “it” makes an impression on you, maybe even changes your perspective. Those moments can come at any time and in many forms; say, experiencing the natural environment in a way removed from technology, noise and other people, hiking Mount Mansfield in the warm sunshine at the base only to find a cloud-covered, bitterly cold wind storm at the summit; literally stopping to smell the roses on a trail run, or just driving west on the highway catching the sun setting in the distance. Just the simple act of sipping coffee on the back deck on a bright summer morning, the only sounds are birds chirping and a lawn getting mowed in the distance.New perspectives certainly can result after traveling to a new place, immersing in another culture, language, foods and realizing those little things in life we often take for granted. It may also come from a conversation on an unexpected topic with a trusted friend or colleague. Point is, we are constantly discovering or re-discovering things that keep life interesting.
Well, to keep this seemingly deep philosophical dive entertaining, a recent “re-discovery” that brought me immense joy and a new perspective, was none other than a croquet set. Laugh all you want, but hear me out. Picture this: an off-the-beaten path all-inclusive beachfront resort set on the beautiful Caribbean island of Antigua; 80 degree days of sunshine, gently breaking waves always in view, an actual manicured lawn set-up for croquet and six competitive adults with brand-new wooden mallets to break-in. Did I mention the resort was all-inclusive? Sure, we needed to brush up on the rules we may have picked up as kids fooling around with the cheap (yet surprisingly durable) set from Bradlees that later became a dusty fixture in the garage. That same set has been restored and used regularly in the backyard, though the view is a bit different than on Antigua. It is also a little ironic that not just one, not just two but THREE different references to “croquet on Cape Cod” found its way into my reading list since that vacation. A 2011 Boston.com article backs up this new-found appreciation for a seemingly trivial activity, “the weird, wonderful – and absolutely cutthroat – world of competitive croquet.” Therefore, I give you, croquet on Cape Cod!
Ellen practicing in the morning sunshine a few days before her croquet singles tournament title.
Croquet 101
First, a little history. The origins of croquet date back between 150 and 600 years depending who you ask, though the game came from Europe. According to one source, croquet was imported from France to England by King Charles II in the 17th century, and has roots extending back to the 14th century in Europe. Others say croquet was invented in the British Isles in the mid-19th century. Not surprisingly, croquet has evolved over the years of tweaking by countries around the world. For our purposes, the history doesn’t really matter, I just want to share the existence of this growing sport that is making a comeback right here on Cape Cod.
Need a refresher on modern day croquet? I got you covered. American six wicket croquet is the most popular form of play from leisurely backyard BBQs to cutthroat club tournaments, say, on the island of Antigua in December 2018… This format has six iron wickets, one stake, four heavy, plastic balls weighing a standard one pound, each played by a player on opposing teams of two each (or four balls played by each of two opposing players). Feel free to amend the rules if you have more than four players or face a time crunch. For the more serious players, “Deadness” boards help keep track of play. Players use mallets sized about 36 inches for adults. The standard court is 105 by 84 feet (35 yards by 28 yards) but the court is scaled down when short grass (one quarter inch) is not available. Like tennis, croquet tradition requires wearing white clothing.
There is an official, national organization, United States Croquet Association (USCA), whose mission is to grow and govern the sport in America. It was organized in 1977 by Jack Osborn, and currently boasts 300 member clubs and 3,000 members, hosting “official” tournaments each year. Much of the sports growth is attributed to partnerships with golf courses (short cut, manicured grass), resorts (guest activities) and municipal parks (public recreation) that can maintain dedicated lawns for play. Due to costs and level of organization, not all croquet clubs are created equal or members of the USCA, though three out of the four below are members. Some clubs are an activity offered at a private club, others operate as an actual nonprofit organization, the rest, are regular gathering of enthusiasts.
Looking for a place to play on Cape Cod? There are a few options.
The Cape Cod Chronicle’s June 6,2019 edition including a letter-to-the editor from the Chase Park Croquet Club about their relocation.
Chatham
Chase Park Croquet Club (formerly Pleasant Bay Croquet Club), is an established organization with over 35 members who play at all levels. They group changed their name after losing their home on the Pleasant Bay waterfront last year, as it sought to re-locate to Chase Park (hence Chase Park Croquet Club), where a closely manicured lawn for bocce is already in use. The group actually went before the town park and recreation commission – in traditional white attire – for official recognition and re-location of play and got it! The club is experienced in setting up croquet courts, teaching and will share a few thousand dollars worth of croquet equipment (wickets, balls, mallets, boundary markers, a deadness board, and a bench) at their new location. The club was even prepared to pay for weekly mowing of the lawn if called for. The Chase Park Croquet Club is open to anyone and welcomes new members. For more information, contact Diane Siptrom at chaseparkcroquet@gmail.com.
Just like D-Day from Animal House, “Whereabouts unknown.”
Martha’s Vineyard
Edgartown Croquet Club (ECC), which was written about extensively in 2015, but has been elusive in terms of recent activities (though they are listed as “community partners” on a 2019 Boys and Girls Club webpage.) Still, in 2015 the Martha’s Vineyard Times covered the 2015 Edgartown Croquet Club tournament with much acclaim, “And the game they play is an exhausting combination of skill, timing, and strategy. Think chess on grass or billiards on the lawn. Last Saturday the four remaining teams in the ECC doubles tournament squared off in a round-robin format to determine the 2015 winner. Bill Elbow and Joan Collins won over Bill Blakesly and Susie Herr for the laurels, after eight hours of play.” The article went on to reference the club’s 25 active members and that it played matches on their home lawn near the Martha’s Vineyard Boys and Girls Club. If you happen to be on the Vineyard this summer, swing by the Boys and Girls Club to play! For more information, contact James Turner at jlturne@gmail.com.
The iconic Westmoor Flag.
Nantucket
The Westmoor Club, a private member club that offers everything from overnight stays, elegant dining, boating, lawn sports and wellness, on a picturesque seaside of Nantucket. There are a few membership categories (full member, associate member and winter membership options) to attract folks, but croquet is just one of many activities for members. I was particularly impressed with their description of croquet at the club, “Truly, the “Lord of Lawn Sports,” the intriguing and tactically challenging game of Croquet has earned a special place at Westmoor. Located on the field of dreams, the croquet field is open seven days a week. The Westmoor Club also hosts Croquet and Cocktails every Monday, in-season.” Croquet and cocktails, sounds like they know what they’re doing. For more information, contact Wayne Davies (508) 228-9494.
A weekly PrimeTime newspaper feature article about the rise of the Sandwich Croquet Club.
Sandwich
Sandwich Croquet Club, is an established club that is located at the Sandwich Hollows Golf Club. Arguably the most well organized (they have a Board of Directors) and active club (over two dozen members, detailed website) on the Cape and Islands, the Sandwich Croquet Club plays 6 wicket, 9 wicket and golf croquet weekly on Tuesdays (2-4pm), Thursdays (5-7pm), Saturdays (10am-12pm) and Sundays (3-5pm) from May to November. The agreement with Sandwich Hollows Golf Club includes maintaining four croquet lawns for play. The lawn is open to members to use whenever they want for practice; outside of scheduled play, tournaments and maintenance. The group also goes out to dinner after scheduled play at either the Clubhouse Restaurant or nearby restaurants. For more information, contact Jean Lynch at jlynch8488@gmail.com.
Anyone else eager to don on white attire and meet up on the lawn?
