Jeff Shaw

Apple Season on Cape Cod

Oh, so many apples! Photo credit: Pinterest.

by Jeff Shaw

I hope you are enjoying fall on Cape Cod, the best season; sparse crowds, outdoor festivals, crisp air, and ocean/pond temperature just warm enough for a quick dip. Mix-in those fall flavors and smiles all around! Speaking of flavors and smiles…

…Last week at Cape Cod Doxie Day, I was the big winner of an Octoberfest raffle prize package – featuring, you guessed it, a mix of Octoberfest-style beers. Like, a lot of beers – too many beers – 48 to be exact (no joke, four 12-packs in addition to pint glasses, bottle opener, t-shirt, etc.). Talk about kick-starting ‘Fest season!

The family and I are now regularly hopping around festivals, farms and bakeries, and my self-control is waning with all the tempting food and drink choices. My kitchen (and refrigerator) is now home to bags of freshly picked native apples, boxes of “famous” apple cider donuts, and pumpkins and gourds galore. There are also pies, baguettes and cold apple cider. Last night, I even caught wind of a famous apple fritter on the Vineyard. Apple addiction, admitted.

Apple Picking

Crow Farm, Sandwich

Crow Farm is a 50-acre family farm located outside of historic downtown Sandwich. While they are no longer operating the farm stand, they have expanded their pick-your-own-apples program. Check out their Facebook page for the latest pick-your-own dates and times. The details: Macoun, Empire, Jonagolds, Cortland and Cameo ($25 per bag), pumpkin picking ($0.75 per pound) and a corn maze ($5 per person).

Crow Farm Stand, Sandwich. Photo credit: Crow Farm.

Cape Abilities Farm, Dennis

Cape Abilities Farm is one of three innovative social enterprises established by Cape Abilities⁠—a nonprofit providing jobs, homes, transportation, social and therapeutic services for people with disabilities across Cape Cod. “Fall at the Farm,” includes pumpkins, gourds, mums, straw decorations, but for this purpose…apple butter, local apples, and organic apples are also available in the farm store.

Hart Farm Nursery and Gardens, Dennis Port

The Farm Stand at Hart Farm, open daily (including Sundays), not only offers produce standards, but also fresh apple cider and native apples. If you are a first-timer, check out their “famous” face-painted decorative pumpkins. Fun!

Hand painted pumpkins at Hart Farm. Photo credit: Hart Farm.

Coonamessett Farm, East Falmouth

Coonamessett Farm a 20-acre working farm, agricultural research center and general store located in Falmouth. The store is open from 9 am to 5 pm through fall, and carries freshly grown seasonal produce, native plants, homemade pies, sandwiches, and snacks. Purchase pick-your-own day pass and roam the fields for produce galore! (Alas, no apples.) The farm also holds seasonal activities, including pumpkin decorating for kids. For members, a Jamaican Buffett is offered Wednesdays and they’ve partnered with Buffalo Jump Cafe to offer farm to table breakfast, lunch and reservations-only dinner on the farm.

Farmer’s Markets

All four regions of Cape Cod are well stocked with farmer’s markets. While fresh, often locally grown produce is the main attraction, you never know what seasonal or surprise product may be available. Case and point, take the Falmouth Farmer’s Market, “the market features just-picked produce, local fish, artisanal cheeses, breads, handmade pasta, and such freshly baked treats as apple cider donuts.” The best part, the is a farmer’s market every day (in season), somewhere, on Cape Cod!

Now that’s a catchy ad! Photo credit: Jack and the Beanstalk.

Apple Cider Donuts

Jack in the Beanstalk, Falmouth

It is rare to find a Cape Cod bakery menu have this menu choice: “our famous Apple Cider donuts.” But exist it does, on the Upper Cape. Located next to Falmouth High School, Jack in the Beanstalk is a locally-owned produce and gourmet food store. They started making apple cider donuts in 2016 to much success and fanfare.

Apple Fritters

Back Door Donuts , Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard)

Anything but your typical donut shop. From their website, “If you happen upon our back door during the daytime, you wouldn’t think much of it. Just a random, non-descript purple door in the parking lot of a supermarket. However, once the sun sets, the back door swings open. With it, the sweet smells of sugary summer pour out.”

Another hot take: “Everyone from The New York Times to Condé Nast Traveler has waxed poetic about these [Back Door Donuts] sweet treats, and for excellent reason: Fresh, cheap, and available between 7 p.m. and 12:58 a.m. in-season from the rear door of Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery, these doughnuts might just be the island’s worst-kept secret (as demonstrated by the nightly long lines). Raised and cake varieties are on offer, and favorite flavors include maple-bacon and butternut crunch.”

Top of the menu. Photo credit: Back Door Bakery.

You know what other item is on their menu, “Famous Apple Fritters.” I too, am pacing with anticipation. Just don’t “fall” (seasonal pun) overboard on the ferry ride!

What is your favorite apple product/place on Cape Cod?

Keep Summer Alive in September

Last spring, when the weather was warming and excitement for summer was brewing, I read an article by Eric Williams, Cape Cod Times, (and one of my favorite Cape media personality) arguing that June is the best month on Cape Cod. Yes, June is one of the best, but I put it in second place. For me, it’s all about September.

Don’t get me wrong, our reasons are nearly identical. The months of June and September:

Avoid the enormous crowds of July and August,
The weather is still warm for outdoor living,
Daylight still lasts until after 7:00 pm and
You don’t have to pay to park at town beaches.

But after “pond-ering” (a nod to Eric Williams kettle pond adventures) a little deeper, I am convinced that September reigns supreme. Whether not you agree, I hope you’ll join me on my quest to K.S.A…keep summer alive!

(1) Seasonal Festivals. Sure, the classic summer outdoor experiences (town band stand concerts, Cape League baseball games and parades) are done for the season, but that just means space is open for fall festivals. Festival events occur every weekend, some run for multiple days and happily continue into the winter. Like, this past weekend was the 13^th Annual Doxie Day! How can you beat that?!?

The 13th Annual Cape Cod Doxie Day was held in Barnstable on September 25, 2021. My lovely wife won the Octoberfest raffle prize.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Enough Daylight. No question, June daylight pushes the 9:00 pm envelope and that is fantastic. But September daylight still lasts beyond 7:00 pm, just enough time for 9 holes of after-work golf.

“Lobster-Doxie,” during the costume parade at Cape Cod Doxie Day.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

No Crowds. Visiting families with school-aged children, college students and tourists have all returned home. Unless you are going to Mac’s Seafood on a Friday night, you won’t have to worry about crowds or parking this time of year. While staffing shortages certainly pose(d) challenges- and showed the ugly side of inpatient visitors, sadly – businesses (say, restaurants) are well in rhythm by the end of the season.

Who said you can’t swim in September (26) at Cockle Cove Beach, Chatham? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Water Still Warm. The ocean, bay and ponds are still warm, though cooler air will greet you upon your water exit. Need proof? My home base – Ridgevale Beach – and the iconic Snack Bar operates food and sailboat rentals through mid-October.

The Ridgevale Beach, Chatham, salt marsh with Buck’s Creek Bridge in the distance. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Stickerless Beaches – with dogs! Now is the time to visit any beach you ever heard about. All town beaches stop checking for parking passes on Labor Day, and most allow dogs back on the beach in September.

What’s your favorite month on Cape Cod?

Chatham Marconi Wireless Route and FKT

*The former wireless transmission site, Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.*

by Jeff Shaw (May 16, 2021)

Author’s Note: Picture this: a bright blue sky, the smell of salty air and fallen pine needles, the sounds of chirping birds, breaking waves and rumbling motor boats. Among a bustling fishing village and northeast vacation destination is both the literal foundation and historical sites that much of modern communication was built upon – even GPS tracking FKTs!

The location is Chatham, Massachusetts, an Atlantic Ocean facing Cape Cod town. The historical site is the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center, celebrating the final of three consecutive centennials commemorating the first trans-Atlantic and wireless maritime communication (a notable example is the Titanic’s distress signal). The man was radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi, who won the Nobel Prize in physics in 1909 for his work in wireless telegraphy.

*All smiles as I attempt to create a historic route and set a fastest known time! Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.*

Chatham Marconi Wireless Route

I call this route the “Chatham Marconi Wireless Route,” ideal for American history lovers, tech buffs and beach bums alike! The inspiration for the route was the “Antenna Trail Challenge,” a first-ever virtual event encouraging people to visit the remaining historic sites.

The route is a historic, coast to coast sprint, featuring a combination of surfaces: dirt trail, road, paved recreation path, and sandy beach trail. The route follows modern day roads and trails that connect the original marine radio wireless transmitting stations in North and South Chatham.

I was sure to share the route with the Race Director, so who knows, perhaps this route will be the future 5K route of Antenna Challenges!

*Forest Beach Conservation Area. From the overlook, you can see former concrete pilings and poles, now historic markers. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.*

Start – Chatham Marconi Maritime Museum, North Chatham

The route begins on the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center grounds, at the top of the hill of the outdoor Antenna Field Trail at the bench and informational sign. The trail descends quickly into the parking lot that leads to Orleans Road with the sparkling emerald blue waters of Ryders Cove in view.

Orleans Road to Old Comers Road

Turn right out of the parking lot onto Orleans Road, passing two restored buildings on the Center grounds. Turn right onto Old Comers Road. The term “old comers” is an old Cape Cod term for families that came over on the Mayflower. Another historical site along this route, is a smallpox cemetery at the 1.5 mile mark, part of “The Triangle” conservation area.

The sandy path begins at the Forest Beach parking lot and ends at Mill Creek.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Sam Ryder Road to West Pond Road (to Old Colony Rail Trail)

Turn left onto Sam Ryder Road. Sam Ryder was part of the fishing family of which Ryders Cove bear his last name. Turn left onto West Pond Road and immediately bear right onto the Old Colony Rail Trail Volunteer Park Extension.

Turn right onto Old Colony Rail Trail. Another historic site, the Old Colony Rail Trail is a paved pathway that runs the length of the former Chatham railway, eventually intersecting with the iconic Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich.

*A beautiful summer day at Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.*

Morton Road to Forest Beach Road

Turn left onto Morton Road. At the intersection with Route 28, continue straight onto Forest Beach Road. Use the crosswalk.

Turn left onto Bay View Road. Keep right up the small hill, which is the Forest Beach Conservation Area. At the top of the hill is an overlook of the salt marsh that was the location of the former wireless transmission site. A handful of poles and four concrete pilings remain as historical reminders. At the overlook informational sign, turn around and head back down the way you came toward Forest Beach Road.

*The rock jetty at Mill Creek. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.*

Finish – Rock Jetty at Mill Creek Entrance (between Forest Beach & Cockle Cove), South Chatham

Turn left onto Forest Beach Road into the beach parking lot. Halfway into the parking lot is a sandy path on the left.

Take a left onto the sandy path. Bare left onto the lower path. Finish at the large metal “5-MPH” Ideal Speed sign at the rock jetty entrance to Mill Creek.

Bask in an incredible view of Nantucket Sound from this remote beach!

I fell in love with the view of this remote stretch of Forest Beach and returned for the sunset.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Best Catch Secret Fish N’ Chips, Provincetown

*Fish n’ chips at The Squealing Pig, Provincetown. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.*

by Mike Shaw (September 1, 2021)

During a recent long weekend in Ptown, I embarked on a culinary adventure seeking out the best fish n’ chips in town. Well, that is, the best ‘catch‘ secret fish n’ chips among the several restaurants which I patronized! It’s quite difficult to imagine dining anywhere in Ptown – or the Cape, for that matter – and having an unsatisfactory meal.

Having visited Ptown many times over the years, I continue to be surprised and delighted by its diverse food scene. In a town most famous for its arts and culture, Ptown has a unique culinary history, too. It’s the town where Anthony Bourdain got his start. He spent a season living and working with other restaurant workers one summer, and it’s that gig that turned him onto the food scene. According to a June 2018 Cape Cod Times article, “Bourdain went from washing dishes at The Flagship to learn-on-the-job cooking positions there and at Ciro & Sal’s, both owned by Ciro Cozzi.”

In Ptown, there are so many restaurants and cafés, it’d take a full season to visit them all! Covering both the East and West End neighborhoods, I selected four restaurants to begin the critical research necessary towards finding an answer in this fish n’ chips quest.

Pepe’s Wharf

My first visit was lunch at Pepe’s Wharf. https://pepeswharf.com/

Pepe’s Wharf is one of the town’s premier waterfront dining venues, just a 5 minute walk from Macmillan Pier overlooking Provincetown Harbor. On a nice day, you can enjoy your meal on one of two decks. During the peak season, you can expect to wait up to an hour for a seat at the popular outdoor bar on the second floor. The fish n’ chips is priced at $24 which includes fries and cole slaw.

Fanizzi’s Restaurant

My second visit was dinner at Fanizzi’s. https://fanizzisrestaurant.com/

About a 15 minute walk from the center of town, Fanizzi’s is a gem located in the East End and redefines waterfront dining as it literally stands above the water! It is open year round and offers a daily “Early Bird Special” from 4:30-6:00 p.m., which includes a starter and several entree options for less than $20. The fish n’ chips is priced at $21 and includes fries and cole slaw.

*Fish n’ chips at Fanizzi’s Restaurant. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.*

The Squealing Pig

My third visit was lunch at The Squealing Pig. https://squealingpigpubs.com/

The Squealing Pig is one of the most centrally located spots in town – a few minutes walk from MacMillan Pier – and provides a casual dining atmosphere. It has a sister property in Boston and is open year round. Channeling a pub-like aura, it has an expansive bar where you can dine and watch your favorite game and chat with the friendly bar staff. The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.

Ross’s Grill

My fourth, and final, visit was dinner at Ross’s Grill. https://rossgrillptown.com/

Tucked away on the second floor of Whaler’s Wharf, Ross’s Grill is a cozy European-style bistro which offers beautiful views of Provincetown Harbor and (limited) outdoor seating. It is open year round and reservations are a must, especially during peak season.

The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.

Now, the verdict (drumroll, please)! While I genuinely enjoyed each of my dining experiences throughout this culinary odyssey, one spot stood out to me in terms of the quality and quantity of fish n’ chips served. As of today, if someone asked me for a fish n’ chips recommendation in Ptown, my answer would be: The Squealing Pig!

If I discover that future fish n’ chip dishes give The Squealing Pig a run for its money, I’ll report back!

Picnicking at Cobie’s Clam Shack Brewster

Cobie’s unassuming sign off Route 6A.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

by Jeff Shaw, August 6, 2021

I’ve always been a fan of dining outdoors. While being seated outside at a fancy restaurant is usually enjoyable, I’m talking about picnicking, especially on Cape Cod beaches. As appreciation for the outdoors grows, especially in the area of dining and socializing, it may not be a surprise to hear, as the New York Times writes, “…and so we are living, it seems, in the golden age of the picnic.”

For decades, my family would regularly alternate between ‘pizza on the beach’ (Ridgevale Beach, Chatham; Nantucket Sound facing) or ‘fried seafood on the beach’ (Nauset Beach, Orleans; Atlantic Ocean facing) on summer evenings. In Nauset Beach’s case, the restaurant was Liam’s (of course it was!); the pizza rotated between George’s (Harwich Port), New England Pizza House #3 (Chatham), and Sweet Tomatoes (Chatham).

With a young family, nowadays we tend to migrate toward Cape Cod Bay (at low tide) for our beach escapades. A recent restaurant discovery checked two boxes of our goals to 1) dine outdoors, picnic-style and 2) dine near the beach. Cobie’s Clam Shack checks both boxes. Indeed, Cobie’s is our new ‘fried seafood near the beach’ (Linnell Landing Beach, Brewster; Cape Cod Bay facing).

Cobie (I assume) sharing today’s specials.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Since 1948, Cobie’s has been in business along bustling route 6A in Brewster. That would be 74 years of operation for those keeping score. The restaurant is close to Nickerson State Park and a five-minute drive from Stony Brook Park, home of Cape Cod Baseball League’s Brewster Whitecaps (currently playoff bound as the #1 seed in the East). A paved recreational path even connects the restaurant parking lot to the Cape Cod Rail Trail.

As a clam shack of yesteryear, the seating is completely outdoors, with a mix of covered patio tables and open air picnic tables in front and behind the building. There are two windows (and likely lines) to order from – one for food; the other for ice cream.

Cobie’s fried clam strip plate. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

During a recent visit, we were the last customers to order dinner. Despite a few lingering ice cream seekers, we basically had the entire outdoor patio to ourselves. And while the hour was approaching closing time, our food was not compromised. In fact, it was hot, fresh and plentiful.

The fried scallop plate had over a dozen sea scallops; with a crispy exterior, and juicy and soft interior. The fries were crispy and hot. The vinegar-based cole slaw was cold with a peppery kick, a delightful contrast to the steaming fried food. Previous trips involved plentiful fried clams, strips and clam chowder. No grievances have ever been filed.

“So Cape Cod,” was a customer’s reaction to seeing this curious parking job. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Cobie’s provides a comfortable, quick (for Cape Cod standards) and enjoyable casual outdoor dining experience – especially for picnic seekers. Just make sure you order before 7:30 p.m., their somewhat curious closing time.