Cape Basics – HappyCapeCod

The Chatham Loop, A 5K All the Way!

by Jeff Shaw

Three roads – or four, depending on the “mid-town” option described below – and a mere 3.1 miles, showcases much of Chatham’s natural beauty, historic significance and best kept secrets. Those roads: Main Street, Bridge Street, Stage Harbor Road (the fourth, Cross Street) connect to make the Chatham Loop (The Loop).

The Loop is well-known to locals and most summer residents. But everyone who visits Chatham should at least drive The Loop. If time is not an issue, I recommend walking it. While the scenery can be enjoyed by bike or on a run, the slow pace of walking (and controlled breathing; no sweating) will make it much more enjoyable. Any non-motorized approach should provide time to snap pictures, pursue a detour, or take a break without worrying about parking.

The Loop begins at the downtown rotary on Main Street, and runs around the Chatham Lighthouse onto Bridge Street. Bridge Street is the home of Chatham’s only drawbridge, the Mitchell River Bridge, and eventually intersects with Stage Harbor Road, which passes Oyster Pond, ending at the downtown rotary.

Now, if you want to be precise, the shape of The Loop is more of a triangle than the assumed circle. Regardless, it is a quintessential summer outdoor activity for anyone who enjoys the sights and sounds of a beautiful place.

The Chatham Loop (3.1 miles/5K!)

The start of the Chatham Loop. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Main Street (1.2 miles from Downtown Rotary to Chatham Lighthouse)

One could argue there is no better downtown than the Town of Chatham. Sure, Provincetown, Falmouth, Hyannis and Harwich Port receive high marks, too. But Chatham’s downtown is just 0.5 miles and is the home address to many notable locations, including the Chatham Lighthouse, Orpheum Theatre, Eldridge Public Library, Kate Gould Park (home of the Chatham Band and a brand-spanking new engraved brick walkway), Chatham Squire and a range of high- to low-end stories and shops that feature homemade chocolate fudge, locally roasted coffee, colorful ducks, soft serve ice cream and so much more. Within walking distance of Main Street is Veteran’s Field (home of the Chatham A’s of the Cape Cod Baseball League), a 9-hole golf course (Seaside Links), the fabulous Chatham Bars Inn, and the iconic Chatham Fish Pier.

The downtown block ends where Main Street turns right, into the Old Village (a Historic District, beyond and down School Street) and around the Chatham Lighthouse. Monomoy Wildlife Refuge is a short drive from where the road intersects with Bridge Street, at the Chatham Beach and Tennis Club.

Bridge Street (0.8 miles to Lighthouse)

The vast woodlands along Bridge Street. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Bridge Street is a bit of an underappreciated time-warp. A mix of old, historic homes (many proudly displaying preservation awards near their front door) are close to the road as well as mansions (if not compounds) tucked out of sight behind tall vegetation and long driveways.

A vast stretch of woodlands appear, somewhat surprisingly, on both sides of Bridge Street between the residential neighborhood and Mitchell River.

The view from the Bridge Street drawbridge. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

As for the drawbridge area, the active harbor will soon be the home of a historic Coast Guard Boathouse. The historic boathouse will be retrofitted for use as a municipal shellfish grow-out facility. The boathouse once served as home base for the famed motor lifeboat CG36500 that participated in one of the Coast Guard’s most heroic rescues, saving 32 crewmen from the stricken tanker SS Pendleton in February of 1952.

Note: If you are up for a short detour, take a left onto Stage Harbor Road from Bridge Street. The road will take you to Stage Harbor Yacht Club, with gorgeous views of the harbor. Nearby is a stone marker honoring Samuel DeChamplain, the first known man to land on these shores (1606), not to mention beautifully restored homes along Champlain Road.

Stage Harbor Road (1.0 miles to Rotary)

The home stretch of the Chatham Loop. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The final stretch of The Loop passes the Atwood House & Museum, home of the Chatham Historical Society. Also, at the intersection of Stage Harbor Road and Cross Street (the “mid-town” route) is a historic schoolhouse, the Atwood School. Finally, the route passes Oyster Pond, a public beach with free parking suitable for families, with moored boats floating with the tide.

“Mid-Town” Route (Cross Street 0.4 miles)

The Midtown Route contains everything above except the views of Oyster Pond. From Stage Harbor Road, turn right onto Cross Street back to downtown (rather than proceeding past Oyster Pond back to the downtown rotary). Along the way is lesser-known Chase Park, home of special outdoor events (commonly arts and craft fairs) and also home to the Chatham Croquet & Lawn Bowling Clubs (and courts), which are free and open to the public when not reserved by the club.

The clubhouse of the Croquet and Lawn Bowling clubs. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Beyond Chase Park is the historic Godfrey Windmill (built in 1791), which is open for viewing every Monday, Wednesday and Friday (11-3) during the summer. Volunteers conduct live demonstrations of making cornmeal. Finally, past the Windmill is the Chatham Labyrinth, which celebrated its 10-year anniversary this year.

Another oddity, which will probably make you smile, across from Shattuck Lane is a home (76 Cross Street), with a replica life-sized “dollhouse” version of the larger home. There is also a life-sized glass blown cow in the backyard.

A ‘whale of an oddity’ can be found in the Old Village. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

See the best of Chatham on The Loop!

September 1, 2022

Train Travel on Cape Cod

The iconic Edaville Steam Train in a winter wonderland. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

By Jeff Shaw

Early Cape Cod vacationers were mostly limited to one way to access the Bay State’s salty outpost and sandy shoreline: trains. It is widely known that railroads opened the West to exploration, settlement, expansion and eventually, statehood. The railroad had a similarly transformative impact on Cape Cod, from sparsely populated farming and fishing villages, to a world renown summer vacation destination. President Grover Cleveland would agree. The railroad, quite literally, put Cape Cod on the map.

Even today, trains remains a secret weapon against the growing congestion of cars, buses and trucks around both Bourne and Sagamore Bridges as well as bustling town centers. To skip traffic jam mayhem, consider riding the rails.

The proof, perhaps legacy is a better word, is the Cape Cod Rail Trail bikeway, which largely follows the old railroad bed that once-upon-a-time connected the Cape Cod Canal all sixty-plus miles to Provincetown, with spur lines to a few communities, such as Chatham and Falmouth.

While the original tracks and trains are long gone, train travel still exists to and on Cape Cod. It’s worth checking out!

The Cape Cod FLYER offers weekend train service from Boston to points southeast to Hyannis from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

CapeFlyer

Operated by the Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority, the CapeFLYER is seasonal, weekend train service from Boston and points southeast. The service runs from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend from South Station Boston to Hyannis, with stops in Braintree, Brockton, Middleborough/Lakeville, Wareham Village, Buzzards Bay, and Bourne.

Prior to the pandemic, ridership had been growing steadily since the service launched in 2013. It is little wonder why; service includes free Wi-Fi, wheelchair accessibility, pets and bikes ride for free and oh yeah, no Canal-related traffic delays. As a bonus, reservations are never required and extra coaches are also added for holiday weekends.

New in 2022, the train departs a bit later than past service; 5:42pm from Boston arriving in Hyannis at 8:20pm in time to allow passengers to make the last Nantucket ferry, which departs at 8:40pm.

Service begins next week, on Friday, May 27, Memorial Day weekend. Note: On Sunday, May 29, the service will be free to active military and veterans.

Cape Cod Central Railroad

The Cape Cod Central Railroad offers scenic train rides across 27 miles of track from Hyannis to Buzzards Bay. The scenic train rides are narrated and programs geared toward a mix of adults, children and/or families.

My better half posing with the Octoberfest spread during a fall scenic train ride.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw

The headlining programs include Cape Cod Dinner Train (fine dining), Sunday Brunch train (family brunch), Polar Express Train Ride (holiday-themed with a visit from Santa Claus). In 2015, an Octoberfest ride was also offered over two weekends. To the surprise of some, Cape Cod has a fall foliage, too!

Edaville Family Theme Park

Just off-Cape in Carver, Edaville Family Theme Park operates a Steam Train. It’s probably been three decades since I’ve been on ‘Engine 5 or 21 or ‘insert number here’, but recall it was nothing short of magical in December, especially with snow on the ground. Indeed, as seven or eight-year-old, I was captivated by the wooden figurines of holiday characters; Frosty the Snowman, reindeer, elves, and of course Santa Claus, lining the snowy woodlands along the tracks.

*The author playing conductor prior to riding the Steam Train in a winter wonderland at Edaville, circa 1988. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.*

So next time you are mulling a Cape Cod adventure, head to the train station. It feels good to acknowledge Cape Cod’s transportation past, by supporting its railroads of the present and future.

May 19, 2022

Photo Essay: So Cape Cod

Sharknado made a brief landing in the bushes of the Chatham Village Cafe & Bakery? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Cape Cod towns are often described as charming communities. It is no wonder. Weather-worn shingle cottages, vast coastal landscapes, massive sand dunes, colorful yard plantings, iconic lighthouses, and preserved woodlands, to name a few. Of course, there are the decades-old traditions – parades, bandstand concerts, clambakes, and baseball games. And don’t forget, the outdoor showers, clothes lines, whale watches, white directional signs, beach bonfires and plenty of places where left turns are frowned upon.

Below are a few charming photos of recent Cape Cod days.

Short Drive Home from the Beach

The vehicle is definitely in motion. Notice both hands are on the beach gear, not the vehicle interior.
Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.

Usually, this kind of creative “passengering” takes place in the bed of pick-up trucks, but the SUV has gotten in on the fun.

Parking Space Lines are Optional

As a Chatham A’s fan, this disrespect of a parking space is a clear example of the evil associated with the Orleans Firebirds.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Perhaps this driver was a fan of Pirates of the Caribbean. To quote Captain Barbossa, “the (pirate) code [in this case, parking lines] is more what you’d call guidelines than actual rules.”

Charming and Quaint

Chatharbor Pottery on Cockle Cove Road.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

One of the more charming and quaint cottages on the Lower Cape, Chatharbor Pottery on Cockle Cove Road is a must-stop when visiting in Chatham.

A Solid Beach Perimeter, Sans COVID Spacing

A beautiful morning at Ridgevale Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Personal space on the beach is always at a premium on summer weekends. Best to arrive early and take note of the high-water mark if you want ample space all day.

Local Art & Inspiration

The unexpected, little joys of an afternoon walk down Chatharbor Lane. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The growing presence of dedicated artist cottages in public spaces is a wonderful trend, yet neighbors are sharing their creativity too!

What charming Cape Cod days have you had recently?

Keep Summer Alive in September

Last spring, when the weather was warming and excitement for summer was brewing, I read an article by Eric Williams, Cape Cod Times, (and one of my favorite Cape media personality) arguing that June is the best month on Cape Cod. Yes, June is one of the best, but I put it in second place. For me, it’s all about September.

Don’t get me wrong, our reasons are nearly identical. The months of June and September:

Avoid the enormous crowds of July and August,
The weather is still warm for outdoor living,
Daylight still lasts until after 7:00 pm and
You don’t have to pay to park at town beaches.

But after “pond-ering” (a nod to Eric Williams kettle pond adventures) a little deeper, I am convinced that September reigns supreme. Whether not you agree, I hope you’ll join me on my quest to K.S.A…keep summer alive!

(1) Seasonal Festivals. Sure, the classic summer outdoor experiences (town band stand concerts, Cape League baseball games and parades) are done for the season, but that just means space is open for fall festivals. Festival events occur every weekend, some run for multiple days and happily continue into the winter. Like, this past weekend was the 13^th Annual Doxie Day! How can you beat that?!?

The 13th Annual Cape Cod Doxie Day was held in Barnstable on September 25, 2021. My lovely wife won the Octoberfest raffle prize.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Enough Daylight. No question, June daylight pushes the 9:00 pm envelope and that is fantastic. But September daylight still lasts beyond 7:00 pm, just enough time for 9 holes of after-work golf.

“Lobster-Doxie,” during the costume parade at Cape Cod Doxie Day.
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

No Crowds. Visiting families with school-aged children, college students and tourists have all returned home. Unless you are going to Mac’s Seafood on a Friday night, you won’t have to worry about crowds or parking this time of year. While staffing shortages certainly pose(d) challenges- and showed the ugly side of inpatient visitors, sadly – businesses (say, restaurants) are well in rhythm by the end of the season.

Who said you can’t swim in September (26) at Cockle Cove Beach, Chatham? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Water Still Warm. The ocean, bay and ponds are still warm, though cooler air will greet you upon your water exit. Need proof? My home base – Ridgevale Beach – and the iconic Snack Bar operates food and sailboat rentals through mid-October.

The Ridgevale Beach, Chatham, salt marsh with Buck’s Creek Bridge in the distance. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Stickerless Beaches – with dogs! Now is the time to visit any beach you ever heard about. All town beaches stop checking for parking passes on Labor Day, and most allow dogs back on the beach in September.

What’s your favorite month on Cape Cod?

2020 Cape Cod Summer Reading List

Over thirty recommendations for your next paddling tour around Cape Cod. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw

Author’s Note: There are few pleasures in life as simple as reading on the beach. Limited “inbox” distractions, passing sailboats, salty air breezes, sand between your toes and ample sunshine, comforts the senses. Whether under the shade of an umbrella or while drying in the warm sun after a dip, flipping through a book, magazine, even newspaper, is a recipe for relaxation.

With the calendar turning from July to August, many of us will seek that “sand and shore therapy” over the next few weeks. So pack a cooler, towel, and beach chair before picking that spot on the sand- 15 feet from anyone else of course – to enjoy your next summer read.

2020 Cape Cod Summer Reading List

Last summer, one of my posts featured books I recently read that are about, or took place on, Cape Cod. I’m once again sharing a similar genre of books; fact, fiction, historical fiction, etc, about this special peninsula. Two quick notes about the list; 1) these books are not newly published in 2020, and 2) I am not a literary critic in any way, shape or form. Just someone who enjoys reading about Cape Cod and eager to share that information with others who feel the same way. Without further ado, below is your 2020 Cape Cod Summer Reading List.

Get an inside look at the Chatham A’s and the entire Cape Cod Baseball League. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Last Best League, Jim Collins, 2004

Spend an entire summer baseball season (2002-Doc Brown’s time machine need only go back 18 years) with the class of the Cape Cod Baseball League, the Chatham A’s. Now known as the Chatham Anglers due to Major League Baseball (MLB) enforcing trademark law forcing them, and other teams, to change their names, this book celebrates a century and a half of America’s past time on Cape Cod. For those who enjoy the journey of player development, this is the book for you. This non-fictional account of an entire summer collegiate baseball season of the Chatham A’s, focuses on three players, two of which were pegged to be stars, and another that grew into the role over the course of the 44-game season. Former players, coaches, locals and many volunteers, who provide the foundation that keeps the league producing major league ready players, are also interviewed. The amount of generosity, planning and flexibility that goes into providing “free” summer evening baseball is truly remarkable. The reader may feel as if they are part of the Chatham A’s family by the end of this story.

Alternative chapters spanning 300 years, and involving pirates, buried treasure and shipwrecks makes this a memorable read. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw

The Old Cape House, Barbara Eppich Struna, 2014

If you like alternative chapters that span 300 years, then this is the book for you. The Old Cape House, a historical fiction, tells the tale of the infamous pirate Sam Bellamy, of which many Cape Cod streets and buildings are named; and Maria Hallett, another popular Cape Cod family name and legend in her own right. The present day storyline follows a family that recently moved from the midwest to the Cape, and unbeknown to them, now live on the same property where a critical moment in the historical saga took place. The story builds slowly, but quickly intensifies; shocks and surprises. The modern day story could happen to any of us, especially those who have a soft spot for buried treasure.

You may find yourself with renewed appreciation of the three great elemental sounds in nature; pounding rain, whipping wind, and breaking waves of the ocean. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The Outermost House, Henry Beston, 1928

After a visit to Coast Guard Beach (then known as Eastham Beach) in 1924, 36-year old Henry Beston was so overcome with the magnificence of the natural surroundings, he bought 50 acres of duneland on the barrier beach. In short order, he drew up architectural plans and had a one and a half room cottage built on the sand, two miles south of the current red and white life saving station at Coast Guard Beach. Intending to spend just two weeks in that remote solitude, Beston could not pull himself away from the “beauty and mystery of earth and outer sea” and lived on the beach an entire calendar year (September 1926 to September 1927). He documented everything; waves of three, shipwrecks, a stranded (but saved just in the nick of time) deer in icy waters, ghost ships emerging from collapsing dunes, herring runs, a walk from the Atlantic Ocean across “the forearm” to Cape Cod Bay and lots of birding. Beston subtly points out that modern society’s problems are partly explained by our separation to, or lack of appreciation of, nature. A beautifully written account of raw nature in all four seasons few people ever see or experience.

Evidence of one of the many tours recommended in Paddling Cape Cod. The small clearing connects Upper Mill Pond and Walkers Pond in Brewster. For those wondering about Lower Mill Pond; let’s just say, the “Narrows” were way too narrow. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw

Paddling Cape Cod, Shirley and Fred Bull, 2000

A list of places to “put-in” for the avid, passive or novice paddler. The authors – who offer paddling tours through their company Cape Cod Coastal Canoe and Kayak – share their favorite paddling spots. As the authors’ state, “Paddling is an ideal way to reconnect with nature, escape the crowds [more important than ever these days], and explore long-forgotten parts of the Cape.” While boaters need to be aware of changes to (the depths of) waterways, inlets, and harbors thanks to shifting sand, a paddlers awareness rests with the changing tides. While this book was written for paddlers of the canoe and kayak type, a few hold up for the well balanced Stand-Up Paddleboarder.

Happy summer reading!