Cobie’s unassuming sign off Route 6A. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw, August 6, 2021
I’ve always been a fan of dining outdoors. While being seated outside at a fancy restaurant is usually enjoyable, I’m talking about picnicking, especially on Cape Cod beaches. As appreciation for the outdoors grows, especially in the area of dining and socializing, it may not be a surprise to hear, as the New York Times writes, “…and so we are living, it seems, in the golden age of the picnic.”
For decades, my family would regularly alternate between ‘pizza on the beach’ (Ridgevale Beach, Chatham; Nantucket Sound facing) or ‘fried seafood on the beach’ (Nauset Beach, Orleans; Atlantic Ocean facing) on summer evenings. In Nauset Beach’s case, the restaurant was Liam’s (of course it was!); the pizza rotated between George’s (Harwich Port), New England Pizza House #3 (Chatham), and Sweet Tomatoes (Chatham).
With a young family, nowadays we tend to migrate toward Cape Cod Bay (at low tide) for our beach escapades. A recent restaurant discovery checked two boxes of our goals to 1) dine outdoors, picnic-style and 2) dine near the beach. Cobie’s Clam Shack checks both boxes. Indeed, Cobie’s is our new ‘fried seafood near the beach’ (Linnell Landing Beach, Brewster; Cape Cod Bay facing).
Cobie (I assume) sharing today’s specials. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Since 1948, Cobie’s has been in business along bustling route 6A in Brewster. That would be 74 years of operation for those keeping score. The restaurant is close to Nickerson State Park and a five-minute drive from Stony Brook Park, home of Cape Cod Baseball League’s Brewster Whitecaps (currently playoff bound as the #1 seed in the East). A paved recreational path even connects the restaurant parking lot to the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
As a clam shack of yesteryear, the seating is completely outdoors, with a mix of covered patio tables and open air picnic tables in front and behind the building. There are two windows (and likely lines) to order from – one for food; the other for ice cream.
Cobie’s fried clam strip plate. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
During a recent visit, we were the last customers to order dinner. Despite a few lingering ice cream seekers, we basically had the entire outdoor patio to ourselves. And while the hour was approaching closing time, our food was not compromised. In fact, it was hot, fresh and plentiful.
The fried scallop plate had over a dozen sea scallops; with a crispy exterior, and juicy and soft interior. The fries were crispy and hot. The vinegar-based cole slaw was cold with a peppery kick, a delightful contrast to the steaming fried food. Previous trips involved plentiful fried clams, strips and clam chowder. No grievances have ever been filed.
“So Cape Cod,” was a customer’s reaction to seeing this curious parking job. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Cobie’s provides a comfortable, quick (for Cape Cod standards) and enjoyable casual outdoor dining experience – especially for picnic seekers. Just make sure you order before 7:30 p.m., their somewhat curious closing time.
This basic question – Is Falmouth Cape Cod?, has been gnawing on me for a while. Silly as it may seem, and equally questionable my posing it considering I rarely visit the Upper Cape, I remain undeterred.
Don’t get me wrong, Falmouth has plenty of going on. It is considered the “gateway” to Martha’s Vineyard thanks to its proximity to the island and requisite ferry service; it is home to the renowned Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute, the premier Falmouth Road Race, the iconic Shining Sea Bikeway, and most of its villages have picturesque views of Buzzards Bay or Vineyard Sound. It was the birthplace of Katherine Lee Bates, who wrote “America the Beautiful,” likely inspired by the natural beauty of the land and sea.
It also happens to be the second most populated town. That word “second” is actually what my theory is based upon – Falmouth is second to Barnstable and not happy about it.
As mentioned above, Falmouth is the second most populated Cape Cod town. Guess which town is first? Barnstable of course! Falmouth was settled in 1660 (incorporated in 1686). Guess what year Barnstable was settled? 1637, a whopping two decades before (though Sandwich, Bourne and Yarmouth were settled even earlier).
If you are into baseball, then you may chuckle at this ridiculous fact – Falmouth has the second most runner-up finishes in the Cape Cod Baseball League finals since their last championship – 1980. Adding insult to injury, they also have the longest championship drought of any active franchise since 1980. Ouch.
My point is Falmouth, as solid as its offerings are, seems relegated to “runner-up” status when it comes to Barnstable. Put another way, Falmouth is the sidekick to Barnstable; the Robin to Barnstable’s Batman; the Sundance to the Barnstable’s Butch Cassidy. This beef may go back more than a century.
As marketing professionals would expect (and suggest), a lot of attractions on Cape Cod have the words “Cape Cod” in their name. Well, “duh” you might say. In Barnstable, examples include: Cape Cod Central Railroad (Hyannis Depot), Cape Cod Mall, Cape Cod Maritime Museum, Cape Codder Resort, Cape Cod Beer and plenty more.
As it turns out, Falmouth may have embraced this strategy to make a case for themselves as the center of Cape Cod. Below are some examples:
Cape Cod Fairgrounds logo.
Cape Cod Fairgrounds (East Falmouth), 1884
Perhaps the most ironic name, the Cape Cod Fairgrounds in Falmouth is the home of the Barnstable County Fair. You can NOT make that up. And yes, I know the county Cape Cod resides is Barnstable County. But still, that’s pretty funny. Also the Fair is happening this week!
Notice the entire Cape is featured in the logo.
Cape Cod Country Club (East Falmouth), 1928
As one of the earliest golf courses on the Cape, the Cape Cod Country Club name suggests it is the “center” of golf on Cape Cod. It is located in Falmouth. Interestingly, Barnstable opened a golf course in 1992, named the Old Barnstable Fairgrounds Golf Course. I can’t find the exact history, but believe an agricultural and livestock fair was hosted by the Barnstable County Agricultural Society in the mid-1800s on some fairgrounds. Still, the fact that Barnstable and Falmouth each have fairgrounds, no other Cape towns have/had them, is worth noting.
My finisher medal and iron-on commemorative t-shirt! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Cape Cod Marathon (Falmouth), 1996
Yet again, Barnstable and Falmouth lock horns. There are two marathons hosted on Cape Cod. Guess where they are located? You’re getting the hang of this exercise! Certainly Barnstable (Hyannis Marathon and Half Marathon) and Falmouth (Cape Cod Marathon).
Now I’ve run both races, and have somewhat comical recounts of each. In 2013, I was volunteering at the Hyannis Marathon and Half Expo, ran into a friend who sprained her ankle, who gave me her bib to run in her place. Having not run much over the winter (the event is held annually in February), I was huffing and puffing at mile 5, but for whatever reason, I recall this glorious tail wind that pushed me along the final miles and assisted in a respectable finish time. My friends were cheering me on at the finish line and it was all smiles.
Conversely, in 2014, I completed my first marathon in Falmouth. Hooray, right? However, I assumed the finish line area would be the place to get food and fuel upon finishing. Most races provide water, food, fuel, even a beer ticket, etc., along with medals, at or near the finish line. Not Falmouth; the water, food and fuels was back at the school/Expo, over a half mile away! There were not as many smiles at the Falmouth finish line.
Notice the entire Cape is featured in the logo. Photo credit: Cape Cod Winery.
Cape Cod Winery (East Falmouth), 2014
And finally, some wine. The recently opened Cape Cod Winery, located on a former strawberry farm, is in Falmouth. But the old guard of craft brewing is Cape Cod Beer (opened in 2004). Not only is Cape Cod Beer located in Barnstable, but has a dedicated tap line in almost every Cape Cod restaurant and bar.
Sorry Falmouth, but Barnstable is winning.
Now sure, plenty of businesses, cultural sites, even natural resources on Cape Cod have “Cape Cod” in their name (Cape Cod Rail Trail-Dennis+, Cape Cod Light-Truro, Cape Cod Creamery-Yarmouth+, Cape Cod Lanterns-Chatham; Cape Cod Realty-Orleans, Cape Cod Sea Camps-Brewster, Cape Cod National Seashore-Eastham+, etc.). Some off Cape businesses do too (Cape Cod Café-Raynham+) just to attract the wandering eye.
But Barnstable and Falmouth take the name game to the next level. Just don’t finish second.
“Sun”day at Forest Beach in May. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The calendar says June which means we are on the cusp of beach parking fee season. A little-known fact about Cape Cod is that there are actually over a dozen beaches spread throughout the Upper, Mid, Lower and Outer Cape where you can find free beach parking. That’s right, no stickers, no passes, no fees, no tickets, do exist!
Sure, these beaches are not on any Top 10 lists. Most, you probably never heard of. But if you are looking for a new adventure, a reason to check out a new Cape Cod town or just want to save a few bucks, the beaches listed below do not charge fees to park/enter.
Of course, you can always visit the beaches that do require a sticker before or after the enforcement hours, generally 9:00-4:30 p.m. or park elsewhere and walk, bike or ride-share back.
Whatever your preference, enjoy the sun and sand!
Free Beach Parking Exists on Cape Cod
Chatham
Forest Beach: Public beach, limited parking, no restrooms, no fees.
Jacknife Harbor Beach: Public beach, no fees, no restrooms.
White Pond: Public beach, no fees, limited parking
Oyster Pond: Public beach, lifeguards, restrooms, no fee, medium sized parking lot (50 spots)
Clear water at Mayo Beach, with ample eating and shopping options within walking distance. Photo credit: WeNeedAVacation.com
Mayo Beach: Medium-sized parking lot (90 spots), walkable playground, restaurants and harbor
Yarmouth
Bay View Beach: No lifeguards, beach area, seasonal Porta-John, small parking lot (20 spots) calm, shallow water
Colonial Acres: Small beach, marina, no lifeguards, wooden bridge, small parking lot (15 spots), seasonal Porta-John, nearby Mill Creek is a good spot for fishing and crabbing
The crossing to Colonial Acres Beach in Yarmouth. Photo credit: CapeCod.com
Dennis Pond: Parking area, seasonal Porta-John, no lifeguards
Englewood Beach: No lifeguards, beach, marina, jetty, small parking lot (20 spots); good sunset spot
Gray’s Beach (Bass Hole Beach): Good views, amenities including pavilion with picnic tables, charcoal grills and playground; Unpaved boat launch for kayakers, boaters and anglers; Good sunset spot; Medium-sized parking lot (50 spots)
Long Pond (Wings Grove): Parking area, small playground, wooded area, basketball court, seasonal Porta-John
Sandy Pond: Small beach, no lifeguards, recreation area, softball field, soccer field, tennis courts, basketball court, playground, picnic area (first come first serve), seasonal bathrooms, parking areas
Even on a cold off-season morning, the wait was about an hour for a table of five! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Mike Shaw
Several years ago, a family friend visiting the Cape stumbled upon The Red Cottage Restaurant, located in the South Dennis Historic District less than two miles off Route 6. The restaurant is set up like an old-style diner in a former two and half room cottage that serves breakfast and lunch.
The Red Cottage Restaurant has a dozen notable features – literally – which necessitated a “first timers” informational webpage featuring – twelve crowd favorites. The restaurant also offers muffins, pies, and quiches as delicious takeaway options.
Award-winning indeed. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Originally established in 1951 by Kenneth Pareseau as a seasonal restaurant serving fresh seafood, it was sold in 1953 to the Mathieu family, who expanded it to a variety/grocery store. It was also owned by the Powers, Madeiros, Gordon and Peabody families. For the last 37 years, the Rosenbach Family has owned and operated the restaurant.
Patrons may also notice two unique offerings that prove the Red Cottage Restaurant is anything but a typical diner. First, two types of coffee are offered: regular, “diner-like” and a premium, special blend. The staff also decorates tables with placemats featuring a vintage 1950s “noontime nostalgia” menu, which was still offered on certain days of the week (well, pre-COVID). I mean, how can you pass up a Cream Cheese & Olive Sandwich or Creamed Chipped Beef? For $6.99, what a deal!
Even though I’d likely skip the nostalgia menu, somehow these offerings just make one smile. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
I’ve visited several times and usually have their homemade corned beef hash with sides of toast and sausage links. The homemade hash is excellent and the portions are quite generous. You should also splurge and “upgrade” to the (famous) Red Cottage Home Fries, prepared with ham, onions, peppers, and layered in hollandaise sauce.
The staff are extremely friendly and treat you like family. On two separate occasions, when the staff learned about a customer’s birthday, they dimmed the lights, sang Happy Birthday, and offered a complimentary dessert item complete with candle. Not your typical diner experience!
Even blog writers have to get their giant pancake fix. Photo credit: A wonderful waitress.
In short, The Red Cottage Restaurant is a gem and worthy of a special trip when visiting the Cape. One note of caution: perhaps unsurprisingly, the restaurant gets extremely busy during the peak season, with limited parking options and wait times easily passing one hour. Plan accordingly and try to arrive early – you won’t regret it!
The well-worn ancient path near McGuerty Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
If you are looking for trails less traveled, consider an ancient and secluded path off Route 137 in Brewster. According to local historian Russ Allen, the pathway is the remnant of a Native American trail one time called the Wading-Place Path, which originally began at Chatham’s Old Harbor and ended at Arey’s Pond in Orleans. Make no mistake, this is not the modern day coastal route of scenic Route 28!
Cruising along Route 137 heading north, I almost missed the abrupt turn onto the dirt, pot-hole-filled McGuerty Road. The trailhead is unmarked at the road’s dead end. It is remarkable that this centuries-old trail has lasted the test of time. At least, this inland section.
A trail junction in Town Well Field. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Of note, I did not prepare for this trail exploration with maps or by local word of mouth. This minor detail will prove important. Ever since listening to a conversation by the author Chris Colin of the funny book “Off: The Day the Internet Died,” I decided to stop using the internet to learn every little detail about a place, activity or experience and instead get back into the business of good old fashion guess work – and getting a little lost.
After meandering my way up, down and around the well-worn dirt path, I eventually reached a trail junction with three directional options. At this point, I was in a good “runner’s groove” and didn’t think much of departing from the main trail. But after 20 minutes, a couple more turns, and no other human in sight, I reached a fence separating the woods and the Mid-Cape Highway. Oh no! I was lost.
A trail ends at the Mid-Cape Highway/Route 6. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
My first instinct was to access maps on my phone. I resisted this urge. I didn’t want to turn to technology so quickly. The Native Americans who formed the trail sure couldn’t. Maybe bumping into a helpful stranger would solve the problem. Unlikely, as I only passed one other person (a mountain biker) during the first ten minutes on the trail. I calmly began re-tracing my steps.
A Brewster Conservation Trust map notes the name of the forest is Town Well Field. The map designates walking trails as “Mapped Walking Trail,” “Other Large Walking Area” or “Other Walking Area.” Town Well Field is designated “Other Walking Area,” which suggests the area is not visited often. Later, I would learn even Google maps doesn’t distinguish the area as woods (green overlay) nor outline trails or landmarks. The area is basically a void on all maps.
A small pile of stones beneath a tree marks the path back to the car. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
As I worked my way away from the sun, which had been in my eyes after that first turn, I stumbled upon a remarkably simple and perhaps symbolic sign. A pile of stones beneath a tree at the trail junction. I remembered seeing the stones out of the corner of my eye when first turning. Is that the sign back to the main trail? Sure enough, the natural sign turned me onto the pathway which took me back to my car.
By the time I burst out of the woods onto the dirt road, I had clocked over 4 miles. Sure, I was lost for more than half of it. But still, there was something comforting about finding my way out of that predictament without resorting to technology.
A faded blue metal sign indicates one of the many trailheads to Town Well Field conservation area. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
There is another parking lot off Route 137 between Twinturn Lane and Katherine’s Lane to access the area. A well-worn blue sign marks the trailhead.
If you need to “find your path,” get lost on the Wading-Place Path for a while!
