It was hard not to smile when seeing this sign. Photo Credit: CapeandIslands.org.
Author’s Note: As another summer season draws to a close, I am amazed at just how great the weather has been over the last three months. Every stretch of days I’ve been on the Cape has been near-perfect outdoor weather. (That localized tornado and related $4,000 in tree removal costs notwithstanding.) The summer season always passes by quickly once the Fourth of July comes and goes, back-to-school ads pop-up too early and the bombardment of college and professional football coverage begins. It’s in these moments when that ten minute walk to the beach provides an opportunity to slow down the day just a bit, and by doing so, extend the summer a few moments longer. After all, many of us have summer traditions to check-off our seasonal bucket list.
This past Labor Day Weekend, I was able to finally “check-off” a couple seasonal tradition, including a Chatham Band Concert, brunch at the Optimist Cafe, and the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters (more on that soon!). If you still have a few more “summer to do’s,” there is another option; jump on the “Keep Summah Alive” bandwagon. Many Cape Cod restaurants, businesses and lodging extend their season through Columbus Day weekend. Further, most festivals are held in the fall months, so there are plenty of autumn activities to add to a Cape Cod bucket list. Either way, hop on down!
Most beachgoers had to walk by the tempting smells of Liam’s before getting to the sand. Photo credit: John Ohman.
For 28 years, John Ohman owned and operated the restaurant (named after his first born son) siting upon the high dunes overlooking Nauset Beach. However, the origins of Liam’s goes back much further than 1989.
As early as the 1950s, the wafting smell of fried food, grilled burgers and hot dogs mixed with salty sea air hovered like a delicious cloud around the same weathered snack shack. From the 1950s to late 1980s, Philbrick’s Snack Shack operated out of the same building, on that same piece of land as Liam’s, just steps from the Atlantic Ocean.
The original operator, Philbrick’s Snack Snack, of the snack shack on Nauset Beach. Photo Credit: Margot Parson.
Interestingly, Philbrick’s Snack Shack also sold a lot of hot dogs, as they used the same company that supplied Howard Johnson’s, known at the time for their tasty frankfurters. One Philbrick son, Richard, recalled a season where The Shack sold more hotdogs from Memorial Day to Labor Day than Howard Johnson’s did year-round in their New England location(s). Richard also remembers selling one to one-and-a-half tons of onion rings…a week!
That number was on par with later estimates by Mr. Ohman of Liam’s; the latter employing more staff for a bigger operation. During Ohman’s ownership, the clam shack employed two dozen people, some local, others from nearby states and even Eastern Europe through the J-1 visa program.
Award-winning onion rings makes everyone happy! Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
In 1979, second-to-youngest son, Jeff Philbrick, took over ownership of the restaurant. After 10 years, Jeff Philbrick sold the business to John Ohman.
From 1990 to 2017, Liam’s served award-winning onion rings (as well as many other menu items) on the dune overlooking Nauset Beach. Long-time locals and visitors would describe that award-winning item, not just as onion rings, but as a summer food sacrament. While that description may seem extreme, multiple magazines, newspapers and travel guides featured or selected Liam’s at Nauset for their annual awards.
These magnets are now a prized collection that serve as a reminder of some good times on Nauset Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Sadly, in the winter of 2017, a string of unexpectedly devastating winter storms caused extraordinary high tides and an extreme loss of beach, which threatened Liam’s foundation. This reality led the Orleans Board of Selectman to a 4-1 vote to tear down the structure and terminate Mr. Ohman’s contract with the town to lease building.
John Ohman described his time on the Cape and Nauset Beach as “a magical mystery tour.” He was quoted as saying, “I think it was a magical moment in the history of Cape Cod, where the sea met the tourism industry with a perfect symbiosis of great seafood, all the sealife, whales, sharks – and great music.”
Severe erosion threatened Liam’s foundation and ultimately led to the Board of Selectman’s vote to tear down the building. Photo credit: Alan Pollock.
On Tuesday, March 20, 2018, the building that was Liam’s (formerly Philbrick’s Snack Shack) was torn down. While owner John Ohman did not rule out a return of Liam’s, he also runs Kate’s seafood off Route 6A in Brewster. At least in the short term, the legendary onion rings live on!
John Ohman’s second location, Kate’s Seafood, off Route 6A in Brewster, serves the same quality food, just with a slightly different view. Photo Credit: John Ohman.
Fifteen year old and trusty “Hercules” was built to haul stacks of SUPs.
Author’s Note: With summer temperatures setting records for heat, staying cool has become a priority. Avoiding the heat of the day requires some adjustment in one’s outdoor activity schedule, mainly getting outside early in the morning or around dusk. One outdoor activity that can keep you cool and has ballooned in popularity in recent years on and beyond the Cape, is stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). The over-sized, wide surf boards allow paddlers to cruise above the water’s surface or ride breaking waves while standing, kneeling or siting. It’s a great workout that you may not notice unless you are paddling against a headwind or have not figured out your balance (the latter point will definitely keep you cool with each and every splash).
There are two kinds of SUPs, hard core and inflatable. The hard core boards are better for deep, rough waters, like the ocean; inflatables are perfect for lazy, shallow rivers. Both work in fresh water ponds. When it comes to paddles, all are adjustable, but opt for the more sturdy, one-piece paddle. You’ll want the extra weight of a solid paddle compared to the lighter, easy to pack, two-piece paddle. Always make sure to have a leash wrapped around your foot and a personal flotation device on your waist or chest. Pro tip: keep the leash on the board, rather than in the water; as its drag will slow you down. Lastly, make sure you have the proper sized fins on the bottom of the board based on your activity. If you are paddling in a narrow river, you’ll want smaller fins made for quick turns that won’t scrape the bottom. If you are riding waves, you’ll want longer fins to help keep the board straight while getting pushed around by the waves. Now the more important question, where to SUP on Cape Cod? I got you covered.
A sailboat floats with the gentle off-shore breeze.
Lower Cape
Long Pond (Brewster), Crowells Bog Road, is an enormous fresh water pond (for Cape standards) just off the Cape Cod Rail Trail with a dedicated swim area, small parking lot (parking permit required) and a wide boat landing. Be aware that motorized water craft (boats, wave runners, etc) are allowed on the pond. The motorized boats usual keep their distance so wave action is minimal. To avoid boat-created churn, keep to the edges of the pond or head to nearby Black Pond. Black Pond, next to the landing, is super small, but calm and surrounded by lots of greenery. Pro tip: If you do not have a Brewster parking permit, park in the dirt parking lot for the Cape Cod Rail Trail off Route 124. Parking is free and the walk to Long Pond is only six minutes.
Hana came along for a short lap around White Pond, Chatham.
White Pond (Chatham), Wilfred Road, is a medium-sized, fresh water pond, tucked in between Route 28 and the Chatham Municipal Airport. It’s my favorite spot to paddle.The usually unoccupied pond is surrounded by cottages, moored sailboats, greenery, discarded sheds, tenders and benches. Every thirty minutes or so you’ll see a prop plane taking off in the distance. The off-shore breeze carries you south around the pond’s edge until a clearing appears to the right, with a second secluded pond area. It would appear to be a dead-end, but it is not. In the far left corner, a tiny opening takes you to, what I call, Hidden Cove. Hidden Cove is the fishing spot, as the entrance is concealed, shallow and narrow, keeping most kayakers, ‘SUPers’ and sailboats away. One day on that same water, I was actually inspired to write a poem. The small parking lot is never full and is right off the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
The party house at Goose Pond, Chatham.
Goose Pond (Chatham), Old Queen Anne Road, is tucked away in a conservation area, between Sam Ryder Road and the popular Corner Store. The uneven, narrow, dirt access road is a great way to get the heart pumping before arriving at the landing with a parking lot for barely four cars. The fresh water pond is small-to-medium-sized, with limited parking, but never busy. The red cottages tucked away in the left corner (east) are a throwback to the days when original property owners probably had the pond to themselves. Another house on the opposite side of the pond, fondly dubbed, the “party house,” as a tiki bar, hammock and beach toys are promptly displayed on the water’s edge. The owners have the right ideas as it’s (always) five o’clock somewhere.
The line of reeds acts as a line separating the beach and marsh areas.
Schoolhouse Pond (Chatham), Schoolhouse Pond Road, is one of two fresh water ponds in Chatham with lifeguards. The small pond is a popular beach for young families, and the parking lot fills quickly. Cars without a parking permit park around the bend off Sam Ryder Road across from Schoolhouse Pond Road. To the right of the swimming area, a shallow section leads to a secluded, back pond area “protected” by two lines of reeds, which almost look purposely planted. Thanks to the family-friendly environment, an ice cream truck plants itself in the parking lot.
Tenders await action on the sand.
Meeting House Pond Landing (Orleans), Barley Neck Road, is a salt water pond and active recreational harbor with access to Little Pleasant Bay. Not surprisingly, the departing and arriving boats create a bit of churn in the water, though the scenery of boats gently rolling with the tide, noise of an active harbor, and surrounding marshlands, make up for it. We did come across at least four seals on our journey, one of which kept pace with us most of the paddle. Thankfully, no “fins to the left, or fins to the right,” were spotted. The dirt parking lot provides ample, free parking.
Arey’s Pond Boat Yard (Orleans), Arey’s Lane, is not a GoT Targaryen reference, but a salt water pond and active “hurricane hole” (protected harbor) in Orleans. Owned by boat builder and designer Tony Davis, Arey’s Pond Boat Yard has restored over 300 sailboats, many of them wooden hulls, over 30 years and is the home to many boats awaiting their next adventure or waiting out the next storm. Being pressed for time, I only did a quick lap around (between) the moored (perhaps recently restored) boats, but discovered the snaking channel leads into Namequoit River into Little Pleasant Bay. Parking is limited.
Mid Cape
Hathaway’s Pond (Barnstable), Phinney’s Lane, is a medium-sized, fresh water pond nestled beneath the quiet shade of pitch pines and oak trees. Surrounded by hilly terrain and dense forest, the pond provides a restful atmosphere ideal for families and has a dedicated area to put-in a SUP or kayak. Unique to this pond, sixty feet below rests a purposely sunk 36-foot cabin cruiser (boat) for diving practice for marine emergency responders. Aside from its underwater oddities, the pond provides a beach with stunning views of the surrounding nature preserve and features a biking and hiking path under a natural canopy. Pro tip: It just so happens Cape Cod Beer is located a mere five minute walk from the pond. If you don’t have a Barnstable beach parking permit, you could park at the brewery and walk over. Just make sure to pick up a 4-pack or growler to ensure good karma and support the local economy for this childish parking hack.
The steeple of St. Piux V Church is the landmark for Wings Cove.
Long Pond (Yarmouth), Indian Memorial Drive, is a large fresh water pond tucked away in a residential community in South Yarmouth. There is free parking at Wings Cove, near St. Pius X Church. The pond is surprisingly shallow along the edges, though there are multiple coves that feature interesting sights such as a white gazebo, red picnic tables, shabby docks, parks and of course a heck of a lot of lily pads. Off private docks you will find lots of fun inflatables. The steeple of the church in the distance will guide you back to Wings Cove.
The old pilings can be seen under the water in the foreground.
Little Sandy Pond (Yarmouth), Buck Island Road, is a small freshwater pond, part of the recreation area, complete with softball and soccer fields, basketball court, dog park, and walking trails. The pond is actually super small for a SUP, but, the tiny beach features crystal clear and warm water until a huge drop-off occurs about 20 feet from the shore. Along the left edge of the pond, I discovered a long collapsed and abandoned wooden dock, which was a bit mysterious as the land closest to the remaining pilings is dense woods. I also stumbled upon an odd looking, medium-sized turtle that looked more like a chicken in a shell. Mysteries at Little Sandy Pond.
Middle Pond (Barnstable) Hollidge Hill Lane, is a large fresh water pond perfect for fooling around on a SUP. Try new stances and push the limit of SUP balance. The water is clear, and no motorized powered boats make for smooth water.
Outer Cape
On our way to Gull Pond after a day at Newcomb Hollow Beach, Wellfleet.
Gull Pond (Wellfleet), Valley Road, is a medium-sized, fresh water kettle pond that has an active SUP, kayak and sailboat scene. The small parking lot fills up by mid-morning since there is an active paddle club located at the water’s edge. Parking permits are required from 9-5. There is a dedicated swimming area near the landing, so young families looking for an alternative to the slammed Atlantic Ocean beaches have a refuge. I had a great time at Gull Pond watching my buddy fail at finding his balance for a good thirty minutes.
Upper Cape
Boardwalk/Town Neck Beach, Boardwalk Road (Sandwich), is one of the most popular beaches in the area, with views of boats passing through the Cape Cod Canal. Paddle the lazy salt water river behind the barrier beach, or venture into Cape Cod Bay when the winds are low.
The Sandwich Boardwalk goes over the inlet on the way to Cape Cod Bay. Photo credit TripAdvisor.
Great Pond (East Falmouth/Teaticket), Maravista Avenue, is Falmouth’s largest salt water pond known for SUP fitness and yoga due to the calm water. It is a solid location for those new to SUP.
Calm waters for paddlers and birds.
Great River, located in Mashpee near New Seabury, Will’s Work Road, offers ample parking and easy access to the calm waters of Jehu and Hamblin Ponds, or into Waquoit Bay with access to beaches that you won’t find in any tour guide. Translation, your very own private beach awaits!
Tall pine trees act as a landmark for John’s Pond, Mashpee. Photo credit: Secret Reel.
John’s Pond (Mashpee), Algonquin Avenue, is a large, fresh water pond and picture-perfect location to SUP or kayak with calm waters in a quiet neighborhood. The large, often unoccupied, beach, is unique in that it features two large pine trees at the water’s edge. Lifeguards are on duty and the town offers swimming lessons here.
Just beyond the woods lies Mashpee Pond. Naukabout Beer Company’s outdoor space is impressive.
Mashpee Pond (south basin) and adjoining Wakeby Pond (north basin), Fisherman’s Landing, is the largest fresh water pond on Cape Cod. While motorized water craft are allowed, which may create some wake, the location cannot be better because…the new Naukabout Brewery is located just off the south basin. After a long paddle, relax with a variety of craft drafts and a ton of outdoor games and music. Seriously, the brewery’s outdoor space is like Legoland for adults.
I’ve also heard good things about West Falmouth Harbor; Washburn Island, Waquoit; Mashpee’s Popponessett Spit; and Red Brook Harbor, Bourne. Where is your favorite spot to SUP on Cape Cod?
The motto of the Chatham Squire, “Where friends get together,” says it all.
Author’s Note: There is no better ending to a summer weekend on Cape Cod than catching a Sunday evening Cape league baseball game at Veteran’s Field in Chatham. Recognized by fans and team volunteers as one of three top fields in the league (the other venues being Cotuit’s Lowell Park and Orleans Eldredge Park), there is always a good vibe under those bright lights. In the distance, behind the Chatham Fire Department, the setting sun signals the rush of the day has long passed, and a bounty of colors swirl in the sky amid a gentle salty, twilight breeze. Unique to Sundays, most day trippers and week-long vacationers have vacated the peninsula as they raced to get over the bridges hours earlier. And as fans settle into their seats after the singing of the national anthem, the “crack” of a first pitch fastball hitting the catcher’s mitt can be heard all the way down the first base line. Play ball!
While this scene was replayed on a recent Sunday evening, it was not until the end of the 7th inning when the real excitement began. Oddly, the excitement did not occur on the playing field. Chatham, like all Cape league teams, does a 50/50 and ‘handful-of-prizes’ raffle at the end of the 7th inning to raise money and keep fair-weather fans in their seats for the tense moments of those last innings. The raffle prizes range from harbor cruise tickets, specialty dessert vouchers, restaurant gift cards, and of course, half the cash collected. A few innings before the drawing, “bogey brother” Dan had to leave the game early and tossed his raffle tickets to us on the off-chance one would be a winner. Not only was one of his tickets called, but the prize was friend-favorite, a $50 gift card to the Chatham Squire (and two tickets on a Hyannis Harbor cruise). There could not be a more appropriate raffle prize, given all of our years of patronage. (Yeah, let’s go with patronage.) The best part of the ordeal was the delivery of the prize; kicked-off with a cryptic text message as soon as the envelope was received, followed by a stop at his house for delivery during a family nightcap on the porch. The astonished look of, “you’re joking,” was as glorious as expected. Later it dawned on me that the Chatham Squire donates this same gift card every home game (22 games per season) for as long as I can remember, which adds up to an $1,100 annual donation just to one organization. It’s also a good example of why a 51-year old restaurant is embedded in the fabric of Chatham’s community.
Indeed, a great 50-year run for Richard and George.
Much has been written about The Chatham Squire, as 2018 marked the legendary establishment’s 50th Anniversary. It also marked the last year of original ownership, as Richard Costello and George Payne, who started the restaurant and tavern in 1968, sold the business to Todd Hearle, a Connecticut businessman who grew up in Chatham. Fortunately, the intent is to change little, if anything, with the general manager and executive staff and many floor staff staying on. While it has only been two months since the change in ownership, I haven’t noticed any changes.
These license plates on the east wall of the tavern also says it all!
Now that the news covering the Squire has subsided, it’s as good a time as any for another long-time fan to chime in. Anyone who claims to know “about Cape Cod” surely has spent some time at this iconic Main Street destination. Whether elbowing your way to the tavern bar, listening to live music/trivia/karaoke from the table tops “upstairs,” enjoying a ‘quiet’ dinner in the dining room or getting rowdy in the back bar on a busy summer Saturday, The Squire has it all.
The collection of nearly 500 license plates from around the country along the tavern walls speaks to the come-as-you-are vibe. That diversity of experience is what makes the restaurant unique – plus the chowder is great, steamers do not disappoint, and I always seem to run into someone I know there. Admittedly, in the height of the summer season, it can be total chaos and you may want to avoid the lines and elbows. But during the day time, weekdays and especially shoulder seasons, its the local pub to have a good meal or drink at a good price.
A hearty bowl of clam chowder and a cold draft beer are required starters, if you like that kind of thing.
In addition to the Chatham A’s, the Chatham Squire also supports many community events. The Squire’s logo can be found as a sponsor for First Night Chatham, both spring and fall Harbor Run/Walks (as after party host), on a float in the 4th of July Parade, and through many Chatham Chamber of Commerce events.
Like many others, the Shaw and Healy crews are long time patrons of the Squire – especially in the winter months!
Having spent much of every summer in Chatham since 1983, I’ve put in a good chunk of time at the 487 Main Street property. As a kid, I recall a stern “mind your manners” moment while dining with my parents and grandparents in the main dining room. I remember staring at the ‘swinging door’ that endless hostesses, wait staff and patrons passed through, wondering what was back there.
As it turns out, “food” was behind the swinging door. The swinging door connected the dining room to the kitchen and to the tavern.
As a teenager, I recall catching a bite with my parents and brother in that once buzzing dining room, now nearly deserted, during a winter weekend. Snow was in the forecast, but had not started by the time we were seated. An hour or so later – and oblivious to the wet doormats and howling wind, we walked out into a full blown blizzard! The scene was magical. There were only parked cars on the road, and a handful of brave souls trying to get inside or to their car. the street lights and flood lights of each building illuminated the blanket of freshly fallen snow. As we slowly made our way to the car, wind gusts were swirling snowflakes in every direction on that chilly night.
As an adult, well, there were many nights started, continued, or finished at the Squire. A certain Squire loyalist (not me) also spent an evening of his bachelor party weekend at the Squire and may have been one of the most entertaining nights of my life.
An old photo of The Chatham Squire from the late 1970s. Photo credit: The Chatham Squire.
Perhaps the most memorable experience at the Squire was the pending joy of standing in a 30-person deep line waiting to get into the tavern. It was the Saturday of Labor Day weekend…in 2002…I had just turned 21 years old. Admittedly – and this may come as no surprise – this was not the first time I’ve been in the Squire tavern. Cheers!
What is your most memorable experience at The Chatham Squire?
Boats tied up on Sundancer’s dock on Bass River in West Dennis.
Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you.
While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.
With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…
The view of the Sagamore Bridge and Cape Cod Canal from Herring Run Recreation Area, across the street from Seafood Shanty.
Bournedale The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water.
Boats listing near Chatham Fish Pier, down the road from the Chatham Bars Inn.
Chatham The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home.
Clancy’s Restaurant overlooking Swan River at dusk.
Dennis Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.
The beach in front of the Beach Bar at the Ocean House.
Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!
Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)
The sign for Brax Landing along Route 28 is hard to miss!
Harwich Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.
A round of local steamers at the Black Cat Tavern! (Sorry El!)
Hyannis Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.
Unbeknownst to us, this was our last Liam’s family dinner on Nauset Beach. Threats of erosion cannot be overstated.
Orleans Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.
The view from a picnic table in the “backyard” of the Canteen in P-Town.
Provincetown The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.
Apparently I didn’t take any pictures while eating at the Bookstore & Restaurant, but I did park in the lot across from the Bookstore for the Wellfleet Oysterfest (and ran the 5K earlier).
Wellfleet The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.
The crew at “our table” after a day on the beach. Also Pro Kadima & Kan Jam champs.
The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.
I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?
Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors.
Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!
PopularTrails (The “Go To’s”)
The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.
Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.
The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.
Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects.
Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.
Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride.
Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.
Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.
The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.
Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected).
“Tucked Away”
Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.
Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!
The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.
Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.
“Peace and Quiet”
A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.
Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.
Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.
Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).
One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.
Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.
I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth; Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.
