Places – Page 15 – HappyCapeCod

Brax Landing’s Waterfront Dining

Author’s Note: I continue to be amazed by how much you can do on Cape Cod in autumn. The shoulder season is packed full of events, from dog friendly days, festivals, craft fairs, road races, as well as clearance sales at many stores. Most outdoor activities, such as whale watches, mini golf (and large golf), kayaking, biking, fishing charters, etc., are still open and not nearly as busy. That last point paving the way for “restaurant hopping,” which in peak summer season, would require the waiting game. Not in autumn.

Waterfront dining is at a premium on Cape Cod. While it may be easy to find waterfront dining options thanks to articles like this and Apps like Yelp, it will likely take a good chunk of time to be seated. Nothing could be more true of Brax Landing, located prominently along Route 28 overlooking Saquatucket Harbor, in Harwichport. For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been a go-to restaurant to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view on the deck. You just may need to ignore the seemingly hundreds of cars in the parking lot and parked on the grass.

Prior to 1976, the building then known as the Bourne House, provided housing for staff of former and legendary Thompson’s Clam Bar, located further down Route 28, off Snow Inn Road, overlooking another waterfront, Wychmere Harbor. Brax Landing has been an institution on the Lower Cape’s restaurant scene ever since — not too mention a fixture of the Shaw Family’s rotation for dining out.

Everyone has a waterfront view at Brax Landing.

The restaurant’s exterior weathered wood panelling just oozes Cape Cod, with a dark wood interior channeling a well traveled tavern consisting of four rooms. The first room being the largest and brightest, the dining room with large rectangle windows overlooking the patio and harbor. Take a few steps down, and the tables next to the windows are on a lower level so the view for everyone in the dining room is unobstructed. The second room is the bar, with about 12 stools (once again, overlooking the harbor — think that’s a theme), 4 table tops and an open area near the fireplace for folks to mill about. The third room is an extension of the bar with about six table tops for open seating.

The view from the cocktail deck is one of the best on the Lower Cape, 2012.

Saving the best for last is the outdoor patio, with over 20 tables, and again, the deck area designed with an upper and lower level with waterfront views. You can taste the salt air. Recently, a firepit was added surrounded by Adirondack chairs so patrons can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table or enjoy a nightcap in the crisp evening air.

The famed Lobster Roll and pint to pair.

Brax Landing’s blackboard menu features specials such as prime rib, baked stuffed lobster, and catch of the day, appearing on your left as you walk down the dark hallway to the hostess. It sets a tone that the restaurant has a range of menu options and seeks to please all. The regular menu is casual, with a mix of hearty soups, big salads, tavern fare and a short list of entrees. For the last 10 years or so, the Lobster Roll has been a hard selection to pass up. While the $22.99 “market price” might turn some off, the 50-50 claw to tail meat ratio is worth it. The hard roll is comically large, nestled next to two handfuls of fries, cup of cole slaw and a dill pickle. Add a summer ale – or in this season – a harvest ale – and you will leave feeling full and happy. We also learned they have gluten-free bread to swap in for hard rolls, which is a nice touch and reassuring that they accommodate people with food allergies.

The wait staff hustles, the bartender banter is hilarious -if not contagious should you have the pleasure of nabbing a seat at the bar. Brax Landing’s character, breathtaking view and hearty fare keeps locals, seasonal residents and visitors coming back. A full parking lot and 45+ minute wait should not stop you from landing at Brax!

Cape Cod Melody Tent Summer Evenings

I bought my first concert t-shirt in decades to commemorate the back-to-back DMB shows.

Authors note: Earlier this summer, I was lucky enough to attend back to back Dave Matthews Band concerts, the first at Great Woods (Mansfield, MA), the second at the Meadows (Hartford, CT). Yes, I intentionally omitted the venues official names due to the evil nature of the tech company that owns the naming rights. Plus, my “coming of age” concert experiences were in the days when both of those venues were actually named, Great Woods and the Meadows. Ahh, the good-old days. There was a comical number of incidents with the Great Woods tickets that made the weeks leading up to the show equally memorable. Perhaps I’ll tell that story another time.

It had been some time since I attended back to back concerts of the same band – like, a long time. First, DMB is one of my favorite bands. Second, due to their enormous portofolio of music, they play different songs, mix up their set lists; and of course, are known for their improvisation and jams. You never know what you’re going to hear at their show. Third, their fans are some of the best. Both venues were packed, crowds were into each song and the music was loud and in sync. It was a memorable weekend and DMB Radio on Sirius XM even continued our tour for a few more weeks.

Ziggy Marley and company opens up Bob’s original, “Is This Love?”

Live music really is something special. Those back to back shows reminded me of what David Letterman said at the 2017 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction ceremony when introducing Pearl Jam. He said, “Never take the opportunity for live music for granted. What a gift live music is.” Those words are hard to forget, on point and reminded me of another special venue that provides that almost lost opportunity to hear live music up close and personal — the Cape Cod Melody Tent.

Eddie Money and family taking us home tonight!

The Cape Cod Melody Tent is a seasonal nonprofit theater located in Hyannis, and a sister performing arts venue of South Shore Music Circus in Cohasset, MA. Over the last few seasons, I’ve seen some entertaining shows at the Tent, including Ziggy Marley, Eddie Money, Doobie Brothers, Rusted Root, and Steve Miller Band. My parents never miss the Beach Boys performance and were tempted to not only see them twice, but twice in one day! (Instead they suggested that fine dinner at the nearby Old Yarmouth Inn.) We’ve also checked out comedy shows, including Bill Maher, and attended a food festival. As the shoulder season on the Cape becomes more popular for visitors, I expect (hope) the Tent to expand their season.

The Doobie Brothers says, “Listen to the Music.”

The stage of the 2,300 seat venue rotates slowly so there is not a bad seat in the house. The staff are good humored and helpful. The concession stands are reasonably priced, but you will stand for a bit. (The whimsical quote, “If you’re in a hurry, you don’t belong on Cape Cod,” comes to mind. At least you can read their wall of fame listing every performer the venue hosted while waiting.) The parking lot is a slight challenge as you line up behind the car in front of you, so you cannot leave until the performance ends. However, if you can handle a short walk, there are a number of nearby parking lots that provide a quick escape.

If only. This picture was taken at Great Woods, but Jimmy would blow the roof off the Tent!

For a modest $80 annual membership (via “Gold Circle”), you get “sneak peek” event announcements, first dibs on ticket sales, and a dedicated ticket/security entrance. The former is especially useful as some events are announced after their season starts, so you would need to check periodically for new event info if you are not on a mailing list. All in all, the Tent is a great summer venue to hear live music, catch a comedy show or enjoy some of the Cape’s finest chowder (fest)!

And just imagine how magical the evening should your favorite band or musician show up? Say, a Special Night with Dave Matthews Band at the Cape Cod Melody Tent. Wow-za.

When is the last time you visited the Cape Cod Melody Tent?

Fine Dining at the Old Yarmouth Inn

The stage coach sign is hard to miss from Route 6A.

Author’s Note: Restaurants are a dime a dozen on Cape Cod, if not everywhere. It’s such a tough business and an Ohio State University study confirmed just that. According to the 2005 study, 60% of restaurants fail in their first year, and 80% fail within five years. In this case, for every Old Yarmouth Inn, there are hundreds of restaurants that have come and gone, perhaps allowing someone else to give it a try to make something (culinary) special happen. Restaurateurs, entrepreneurs, financiers, please don’t let those statistics stop you.

My family loves this place. And for a long time. It is also the restaurant where my wife and I celebrated our engagement with my parents, a few weeks after I popped the question. Indeed, there’s a little bit of modern family history in addition to the Old Yarmouth Inn’s colonial era roots.

The unique exterior takes you back in time a century or two.

The Old Yarmouth Inn lays claim as the oldest Inn on Cape Cod with origins dating back to 1696 (it is not an Inn anymore). Located along a stretch of Route 6A lined with beautifully designed shops, homes, churches and community buildings, the Old Yarmouth Inn is somewhat of a mid-cape point between the Cape Cod Canal and the Outer Cape for the weary traveler. The unique design of the Inn alone can make you stop in your tracks when admiring the exterior facade, interior craftsmanship, let alone the food, “country cozy” dining rooms, and staff hospitality. There are at least three dining areas as well as the tavern. Fireplace or not, every room in the Inn feels like a unique little nook, making you want to stay for hours, assuming you’re in good company.

One of the many dining rooms at the Old Yarmouth Inn.

I suppose the history and longevity of the Inn is part of the magic that makes people come back. And the ghosts stories; yes, the Old Yarmouth Inn promotes a story of a mischievous and good humored ghost(s) roaming the grounds. It’s a fascintating account of “connecting the historical dots” since most of the records of travelers and guests over the last 3 centuries have been lost.

This particular visit was one where I was unusually hungry. While a basket of bread is nothing to get excited about, that warm (freshly baked) bread lathered in a square of butter was worth noting. The Tito’s martini straight up also added to the elegant dining experience. The Old Yarmouth Inn’s clam chowder is above average, a thick creamy base with chunks of clams and smaller pieces of potatos mixed in with a peppery finish. Their wedge salad was served on a crispy head of lettuce with the usual fixings. The timing between each course was just right and the waitress made a point to check-in with us before the next service.

The entrees were excellent. My wife and father went with the prime rib, while my mom picked salmon. My selection was a no doubter; the haddock special, an enormous buttery filet on a bed of asparagus over red potatos with a jumbo shrimp resting atop. The picture actually does the food justice; it was delicious and worth the price.

Another memorable meal at the Old Yarmouth Inn.

Where Nothing Could Be Finer Than To Eat at Sandi’s Diner

Hana made sure to get her steps in before breakfast.

Author’s Note: Last weekend, our usually sleepy fur baby Hana the dachshund, decided to play rooster around 5:45am to make sure we all had a productive day. While I was hoping to have a lazy Sunday, we took her soothing whines to get up and going. A cool morning walk to Ridgevale Beach and down a few side streets worked up our appetites (and tired her out) to the point where we decided to play “restaurant roulette.” The game is comically simple; we pick up the local newspaper (in this case, the Cape Cod Chronicle) and open a random page. Which ever restaurant advertisement is read first is where we go for breakfast. (Restaurants, take note, you may want to increase your ad budgets!) Page 3 of the edition was none other than, “Where Nothing Could Be Finer Than To Eat at Sandi’s Diner.”

It often feels like the breakfast culture on the Cape is increasingly shifting to “grab and go” away from the traditional sit-down meal. The reasons are obvious; it’s fast (race to get that beach parking space); less expensive for customers (though no free re-fills of coffee!) and possibly less costly for the restaurants (less wait staff; smaller menu may mean less ingredients). Fortunately, the tourists and beach-goers are not completely succeeding at changing the breakfast landscape, as restaurants like Sandi’s Diner remain packed and enjoy a loyal following.

The patio of Sandi’s Diner may be the best seat “in” the house.

If you need a refresher, Sandi’s Diner is a downtown Chatham breakfast/lunch spot that opens at 4:30 a.m. EVERY DAY. The menu is straight-forward, one page menu with just the right amount of omelet, pancake, waffle, egg sandwich, fresh fruit options. The wait staff moves quick, even on busy mornings. The dining room, with counter service, is small and can “heat up” when full. There air conditioning is an exhaust fan. If you want a cooler, quieter seat with a charming view of Main Street, grab one of the two tables outside on the front porch. Though, the exhaust fan does blow near the table closest to the door.

We only had to wait a few minutes until our table for four was ready. Always one to pair coffee with breakfast , the brew was nothing special, but that’s to be expected for a diner. However, my cup was filled every time it was half full. All of us had different food selections in mind. Ellen, the better half, went with pancakes, Mom had a fruit bowl, Dad had a muffin sandwich and I went with the Benny. The presentation was a plus, food was hot, portions were plentiful and taste was above average, especially considering the range of items ordered. The pancakes were noticeably fluffy. The price was right.

We followed our breakfast with a slow stroll through a still deserted downtown as all the shops were just beginning to show signs of life. We turned around “Where the Sidewalk Ends,” (unfortunately they were not yet open), looped back and drove back to the house.

Astonishingly, the puppy who kicked off this day was wide-eyed and bushy tailed when we returned. We ended up getting in a second walk to the beach that morning. Thanks Hana and Sandi’s!

The Neighborhood Bakery: Marion’s Pie Shop

Author’s Note: Running, walking, biking or a similar forms of “foot powered transportation” is a great way to check out a new city or even see your home town from a new perspective. When I travel, almost every morning I get up earlier than I would at home, and go for a run. While fitness may be the initial motivation, “on foot” exploration allows me to get close to a waterfront, go the opposite direction down a one-way side street in a city, even stumble upon a hidden historical site, all of which may be interesting and even help determine activities later in the day. But it did not take work travel or an exotic trip to re-discover a hidden gem in plain sight in Chatham.

In this case, the hidden gem is not really hidden, it is Marion’s Pie Shop!

Ragnar Trail Vermont finisher medal. It’s a fork, spoon and bottle opener.

With a Ragnar Trail Vermont relay race just days away, I needed to squeeze in a long run to gauge strength and stamina to determine my confidence level before tackling Mt. Ascutney in central Vermont. Aiming for 6+ miles, I made up a haphazard loop from Ridgevale Beach, to Cockle Cove to the Old Colony Rail Trail west toward Harwich, followed by a u-turn back towards Chatham Municipal Airport. The final stretch would take me past Chatham’s Old Schoolhouse Ice Cream towards Sam Ryder Road.

As I emerged out of the tree covered trail, a sudden scent of cinnamon sugar hit my face; kind of like when the smell of someone grilling wafts through the air. I knew the sweet smell was not the nearby Chatham Transfer Station. In my hot, sweaty, tired mess, I realized that the smell was none other than Marion’s Pie Shop, but also that I had not visited the bakery in quite some time. Now, I’m the kind of person that tends to take signs in nature or odd coincidences as a hint to do something. In this case, the sweet air was a sign to pay homage to Marion’s Pie Shop. (Admittedly, this is not a big ask as it is down the road from the house and already has quite the reputation.) The smell of what could only be a cinnamon nut roll that helped me power through the final incline of the run got stronger as I approached the shop.

If you are not familiar with the area, Marion’s Pie Shop is the only restaurant along a fairly long residential stretch of Route 28 in West Chatham. It was not always this way. The former Ridgevale Restaurant, with the beautifully polished white 1930s Rolls Royce parked in front, use to be next to Marion’s toward Ridgevale Road (townhouses are now there) and former Flemings Seafood Restaurant, was a little further down Route 28 closer to Cockle Cove Road (a conservation area/park is there now). There also use to be another motel across from Marion’s to complement the nearby Seafarer Inn. Fortunately, Chatham Pottery and an art gallery are the other commercial “anchor tenants” in the area of what I playfully call, the Ridgevale Road Business Association. The walkability of these businesses is a great benefit of living in the neighborhood.

Unfortunately, this run was a 6:30am start, so Marion’s Pie Shop was not yet open when I rolled up around 7:30am. As I stepped through the open door, a polite college-aged youngster, likely a seasonal employee said, “Sorry, we open at 8:00 a.m.” That was fine considering my sweaty state. After some small talk, what did surprise me was his answer when I asked him about what kind of coffee they had available. The muted response was, “just the Keurig,” Ugh! For this bakery with such a huge following, those sweet heavenly smells, comfy outdoor seating, charming broken seashell driveway, it’s hard to believe “just the Keurig” was the answer. Especially with all the local coffee roasters such as Beanstock (Wellfleet), the Art of Roasting (Chatham) fighting to get playing time in our morning routines. Indeed, the coffee culture is strong (coffee pun intended) on the Cape (albeit, a bit snobby), but like wine, “Life is too short to drink bad coffee!”

The picture does not do these jumbo muffins justice.

The first attempt to taste, not just smell, Marion’s sugary goodness, was a big fail. By the time I got back to the house, showered, figured out the plan of the day, I returned to learn they were out of almost every freshly baked breakfast item. And I didn’t feel like a spinach croissant. Fortunately, that was Saturday, and on Sunday, I arrived by 8:00am and grabbed a wild blueberry muffin (and for fun, the Chatham muffin, the latter being basically baked sugar in muffin form. I recommend splitting the Chatham muffin with at least one other person!) The wild blueberry muffin was delicious, still warm from the oven, perfect portion and did not need to be toasted or smothered with butter. It was an easy reminder why this neighborhood bakery has stood the test of time. And if you were wondering, the bakery was started (by Marion) in 1947, and the current owners, Cindy and Blake Stearns, continued her tradition since 2003.

While Marion’s breakfast selections are winners, my next visit will focus on their “side dishes,” i.e., potato salad, cole slaw, pasta salad and baked beans. If these side dishes are close to the level of the breakfast goodies, I’ll happily get in line at 8:00 a.m. on a Sunday; whether or not the smell of a cinnamon nut roll is in the air.

What is your favorite neighborhood bakery?