Kate Gould Park, Chatham, during the holiday season. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
Happy New Year! And what better way to kick-off a new year, with…“Give the gift that will last forever.” That catchy tagline describes a unique fundraiser being hosted by the Chatham Chamber of Commerce & Merchants Association. Specifically, the Beautification Committee within the Chamber, is managing a brick purchasing campaign as part of a larger, two-phase improvement plan for Kate Gould Park along Main Street in downtown Chatham.
Brick sales is the featured activity of phase one of the improvement plan. There are two styles of personalized bricks available. The $150 option includes 3 lines with 20 characters on each line. The $300 option includes 6 lines with 20 characters on each line. The inscribed bricks will look similar to those at walkways at Oyster Pond and the Atwood House in Chatham.
Kate Gould Park, Chatham, featuring holiday lights. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
According to Mary Cavanagh, there is no deadline just yet. The Chamber will provide plenty of notice before cutting off ordering. As for timeline, the bricks could be installed as early as this June or as late as June 2023, depending on sales.
Other upgrades in phase one include new plantings – hydrangeas, grass and roses. Also, the trash and recycling containers at both park entrances will be relocated. Together, these improvements will soften the appearance of the heavy foot traffic area.
The Whit Tileston Bandstand in Kate Gould Park, Chatham. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
According to the Cape Cod Chronicle, the Beautification Committee envisions a second phase of the improvement plan that would involve a well and irrigation system, as well as clearing brush from the hillside bordering Seaside Links Golf Course to create more space for crowds at band concerts.
The Beautification Committee consists of Chamber/Merchant board members, along with employees of local businesses, the Chatham Garden Club, the Friends of Trees, the Chatham Band and other community members.
Author’s Note: While walking along a browning salt marsh on a crisp autumn afternoon, I got hungry. And a little thirsty. Suddenly, I was craving a large, warm and steamy bowl of clam chowder from the Chatham Squire. Alas, the restaurant was many miles away. As my mind wandered for other hearty options, oddly, the signature oyster shooter at the Beachcomber came into focus. Perhaps the cracked shells along the shoreline inspired the thought. Sadly, the Comber has been long closed for the season. The disgusting sounding seafood shot would have to wait until 2022. What to do?
Unable to scratch that Squire-Comber itch, my mind remained fixated not on food, not on drink, but the long-standing question – which bar-restaurant was better? Squire or Beachcomber? I’m surely not the only one who has fallen into this rabbit hole of tasty wonder, but it was time to put pen to paper and settle the score.
Two Iconic Cape Cod Bar-Restaurants
The Chatham Squire during Fourth of July, 2019. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Chatham Squire
Since 1968, the Chatham Squire is now without question, the town of Chatham’s most iconic restaurant. Located in the middle of downtown Main Street and known for its two distinctive sections—the family friendly restaurant on the west side and a rowdy tavern on the east – the Squire is a bustling operation and mixing pot of locals, tourists, college students and families.
The original owners, the late Richard Costello and George Payne, operated the business for 53 years. In 2019, Costello and Payne sold the business to Todd Hearle, whose parents owned and operated an art gallery that bared its name across the street. While much of the operation remains the same, a few notable changes (again, after 50 years!) are listed below. The Squire is open from 11:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. daily (kitchen closes at 9), and sports a 100-person staff.
Awards: Boston Magazine: Best Bar (2007); Cape Cod Life: Best Chowder (Silver); Cape Cod Times Reader Poll: Best Karaoke Venue.
Wondering about the name? “A squire is someone who attends to or takes care of, and that’s what we’ve been doing for 50 years,” said General Manager Richard Sullivan, when interviewed by the Cape Cod Chronicle upon the 50th anniversary of the restaurant.
The Wellfleet Beachcomber in the offseason, fall 2020. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Wellfleet Beachcomber (also known as the Comber or ‘Comah)
Since 1953, The Beachcomber features panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean atop the bluff overlooking Cahoon Hollow Beach. But the building itself – an old life saving station – is much older. Built in 1897, the Wellfleet Beachcomber was one of the nine Life Saving Service stations built on the Outer Cape (Race Point, Highlands, Peaked Hill Bars, Pamet, Cahoon’s Hollow, Nauset, Orleans, Chatham, and Monomoy Point). Life Saving Stations originated in 1872 as part of the U.S. Department of Treasury’s Life Saving Service, which pre-dated the U.S. Coast Guard.
As the story goes, in 1953 Russell Gallagher, who had summered at Cahoon Hollow Beach as a child, bought the old station and converted it into a small inn, and dubbed it the Beachcomber. One of the rooms inside was finished with driftwood and nautical bric a brac, that was “combed” off the beach.
About 10 years later (1961), President John F. Kennedy created the Cape Cod National Seashore which would preserve in perpetuity over 43,500 acres of ponds, woods and beachfront along the Atlantic–facing Eastern side of Cape Cod in the towns of Provincetown, Truro, Wellfleet, Eastham, Orleans, and Chatham. By virtue of a “Grandfather” clause, the Beachcomber was/is allowed to remain within the National Seashore as a privately held commercial property (one of only eleven at that time).
Awards: Boston Magazine: “Best Bar on the Cape & Islands”; Cape Cod Life Readers Poll: “Best Raw Bar, Best Outdoor Dining, Best Specialty Cocktail and Best Entertainment”; Esquire: “Best Bars in America”; Travel Channel’s #10 pick on the “Twenty-One Sexiest Beach Bars in the World” list; and Yankee Magazine: “One of the Best Seaside Dining Spots in New England.”
Wondering about the assertion of being “Cape Cod’s only oceanfront restaurant and club? Even though there are several restaurants, and other businesses on the water (either Nantucket Sound, or Cape Cod Bay), the Beachcomber is the only oceanfront (Atlantic side) restaurant on Cape Cod.
Honorable Mentions
There are many popular bar-restaurant-taverns not named Beachcomber or Squire on Cape Cod. I’ve been to many of them. But the Comber and Squire stand out. First, their followings are second to none. Second, their logos can be seen on t-shirts and bumper stickers across the country. Third, I’ve had some truly wild days and nights at both places. A few nights could probably qualify as episodes for a comedy mini series. Need more proof? Brace yourselves for the debate below.
Iconic Categories
Charm
Beachcomber: The outside bar is regularly packed three people deep. The floor is sandy. The vibe is hazy. Shoes may be optional.
Squire: The collection of roughly 500 license plates hanging from the rafters and walls pairs well with sawdust and sweat on the floor. There are even arcade games near the back bar.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 1-0.
Entertainment
Beachcomber: It’s hard to beat live music at a largely outdoor restaurant, but…
Squire: …offers oodles of entertainment. Take your pick; live music, trivia nights, karaoke, or watching in amusement as already tipsy wedding partygoers hang on for last call. Forget the television, there is always something happening “live” at the Squire. The tavern’s “upstairs” table tops are a great viewing perch for the mayhem.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 2-0.
Food & Drink
Beachcomber: Oyster Shooters. Need anything more be said? The raw bar, stationed outside, is “shucked to order,” which is both fun to watch and obviously a treat to eat.
Squire: We’ve covered the clam chowder. It is excellent. Last year, new chef, Christian Asencio’s, added menu items such as the Angry Lobster, a spicy crustacean pasta dish; pan-seared scallops with a summer succotash of house-roasted jalapenos, roasted corn, edamame, broccoli and tomatoes; truffle fries; an ahi tuna sandwich on brioche; and more. Upgrade?
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire leads 2-1.
“Funkness”
While often seen cruising along Ocean View Drive, The Funk Bus group transportation specifically notes stops at “the Wellfleet Beachcomber, the Chatham Squire,…” on its website. Indeed, we are in iconic territory.
Winner: Tie.
Squire still leads 2-1.
Hours
Beachcomber: Open seasonally, daily, from mid-May to Labor Day. Though, last year, the restaurant reopened through Oct. 3 — only the second post-season reopening.
Squire: The Squire is open year-around, like 364.5 days year-round. I recall they’ve opened Christmas Day afternoon more than occasionally.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 3-1.
History
Beachcomber: A former life saving station, the original building itself is over 100 years old (the service/building pre-dates the U.S. Coast Guard) and business is nearing its 70th anniversary serving customers.
Squire: The 50th Anniversary, celebrated in 2019, featured a special weekend exhibit at the Chatham Historical Society’s Atwood House and Museum.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire leads 3-2.
Location
Beachcomber: (Truly) the only oceanfront – Atlantic side – restaurant on Cape Cod.
Squire: Located in the center of downtown Chatham and walking distance to popular attractions Chatham Lighthouse, Chatham Fish Pier, Chatham Bars Inn, and Veteran’s Field, home of the Chatham A’s of the Cape Cod Baseball League); stumbling distance to the Chatham Bandstand in Kate Gould Park.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire-Beachcomber tied 3-3.
Price
Beachcomber: If you park in their parking lot to access Cahoon Hollow Beach, the $30 parking ticket also acts as a restaurant voucher (food, raw bar, merchandise). Of course, you are going to use it! The “Ultimate Season Pass” is also available for frequent patrons including seasonal parking, discounts at the Shop and other perks.
Squire: Before the ownership switch/COVID, a winter dining club/card was offered. Dine five times, the sixth meal was free.
Winner: Beachcomber
Beachcomber leads 4-3.
Pop Culture
Beachcomber: No pop culture references known.
The Squire: In the movie “Summer Catch,” the players hang out at a bar called “The Oasis,” an obvious play of the Chatham Squire.
Winner: Squire
Beachcomber-Squire tied 4-4.
Stores
Beachcomber: The Beachcomber Store is located in the South Wellfleet Plaza off Route 6, between LeCount Hollow Road and the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
Squire: The Squire Shop is located in downtown Chatham, directly across the street from the restaurant.
Winner: Tie. Can we pause for a moment to consider both restaurants have their own stand-alone storefronts to sell logo merchandise. That’s iconic.
Beachcomber-Squire tied 4-4.
Supports the Community
Beachcomber: known for supporting two major fundraising events each year on premises:
Clam Jam, a fundraiser for the Pan Mass Challenge (PMC) that benefits Dan-Farber Cancer Institute.
Live for Lou (Oct 2, 2021), a fundraiser that supports an advised fund of the Cape Cod Foundation established in memory of the LeBarts’ son Louie who from died an opioid overdose in 2014.
Squire:
Donates $50 gift certificates as raffle prizes during each Chatham A’s home game (22 games each season)
Sponsors community events such as First Night, Spring and Fall Harbor Runs; enters a float in the Fourth of July Parade
Founded the Pals For Life Foundation, to help Lower Cape residents from the restaurant and hospitality industries who may need assistance due to injuries that keep them out of work.
No food waste here. As the story goes, Costello didn’t like seeing uneaten food go to waste, so he arranged to have all food waste donated to an area farmer with pigs. ‘Pig buckets’ were located at the dishwasher station and employees were asked to scrap the plates into these buckets to be served to the pigs the next day.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 5-4.
Special Note/Fun Fact
Beachcomber:
Cottages. On site are two cottages (Sandbar and ComahCabana) for rent. The identical 20’x 25′ cottages both offer about 1,000 sq. ft. of living space; have layouts offering 2 bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths, a 2nd floor kitchen/living/dining area and, best of all, large decks facing the Comber and the Atlantic Ocean.
Webcams and Superforecasts. The website homepage features a detailed Wellfleet weather dashboard, including wave direction, height and period for the surfer and SUPer alike.
Squire: Started a Mobile Raw Bar (food truck) available for private events. The 1960s FAN (Franklin A. Newcomer) camper was retrofitted with cedar-shake siding and license plates to take the charm of downtown Chatham to a party near you.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire-Beachcomber tied 5-5.
Final Score
A tie! Come on, man! Look, both the Beachcomber and Squire have strong cases for Most Iconic Bar-Restaurant on Cape Cod.
But to force separation in the top rankings, one indisputable fact cannot be overstated. Remember the whole view? The ocean. The sun. The sand. The remoteness. The outdoors. The Beachcomber experience illustrates why the population on Cape Cod quadruples over the summer. Outside!
That said…my tummy is still craving that large, steamy bowl of clam chowder from the Squire. Sorry folks, but you can’t eat the Beachcomber’s view!
Which do you think is most iconic, and why, the Beachcomber or Squire?
I hope you are enjoying fall on Cape Cod, the best season; sparse crowds, outdoor festivals, crisp air, and ocean/pond temperature just warm enough for a quick dip. Mix-in those fall flavors and smiles all around! Speaking of flavors and smiles…
…Last week at Cape Cod Doxie Day, I was the big winner of an Octoberfest raffle prize package – featuring, you guessed it, a mix of Octoberfest-style beers. Like, a lot of beers – too many beers – 48 to be exact (no joke, four 12-packs in addition to pint glasses, bottle opener, t-shirt, etc.). Talk about kick-starting ‘Fest season!
The family and I are now regularly hopping around festivals, farms and bakeries, and my self-control is waning with all the tempting food and drink choices. My kitchen (and refrigerator) is now home to bags of freshly picked native apples, boxes of “famous” apple cider donuts, and pumpkins and gourds galore. There are also pies, baguettes and cold apple cider. Last night, I even caught wind of a famous apple fritter on the Vineyard. Apple addiction, admitted.
Apple Picking
Crow Farm, Sandwich
Crow Farm is a 50-acre family farm located outside of historic downtown Sandwich. While they are no longer operating the farm stand, they have expanded their pick-your-own-apples program. Check out their Facebook page for the latest pick-your-own dates and times. The details: Macoun, Empire, Jonagolds, Cortland and Cameo ($25 per bag), pumpkin picking ($0.75 per pound) and a corn maze ($5 per person).
Cape Abilities Farm is one of three innovative social enterprises established by Cape Abilities—a nonprofit providing jobs, homes, transportation, social and therapeutic services for people with disabilities across Cape Cod. “Fall at the Farm,” includes pumpkins, gourds, mums, straw decorations, but for this purpose…apple butter, local apples, and organic apples are also available in the farm store.
Hart Farm Nursery and Gardens, Dennis Port
The Farm Stand at Hart Farm, open daily (including Sundays), not only offers produce standards, but also fresh apple cider and native apples. If you are a first-timer, check out their “famous” face-painted decorative pumpkins. Fun!
Hand painted pumpkins at Hart Farm. Photo credit: Hart Farm.
Coonamessett Farm, East Falmouth
Coonamessett Farm a 20-acre working farm, agricultural research center and general store located in Falmouth. The store is open from 9 am to 5 pm through fall, and carries freshly grown seasonal produce, native plants, homemade pies, sandwiches, and snacks. Purchase pick-your-own day pass and roam the fields for produce galore! (Alas, no apples.) The farm also holds seasonal activities, including pumpkin decorating for kids. For members, a Jamaican Buffett is offered Wednesdays and they’ve partnered with Buffalo Jump Cafe to offer farm to table breakfast, lunch and reservations-only dinner on the farm.
Farmer’s Markets
All four regions of Cape Cod are well stocked with farmer’s markets. While fresh, often locally grown produce is the main attraction, you never know what seasonal or surprise product may be available. Case and point, take the Falmouth Farmer’s Market, “the market features just-picked produce, local fish, artisanal cheeses, breads, handmade pasta, and such freshly baked treats as apple cider donuts.” The best part, the is a farmer’s market every day (in season), somewhere, on Cape Cod!
Now that’s a catchy ad! Photo credit: Jack and the Beanstalk.
Apple Cider Donuts
Jack in the Beanstalk, Falmouth
It is rare to find a Cape Cod bakery menu have this menu choice: “our famous Apple Cider donuts.” But exist it does, on the Upper Cape. Located next to Falmouth High School, Jack in the Beanstalk is a locally-owned produce and gourmet food store. They started making apple cider donuts in 2016 to much success and fanfare.
Anything but your typical donut shop. From their website, “If you happen upon our back door during the daytime, you wouldn’t think much of it. Just a random, non-descript purple door in the parking lot of a supermarket. However, once the sun sets, the back door swings open. With it, the sweet smells of sugary summer pour out.”
Another hot take: “Everyone from The New York Times to Condé Nast Traveler has waxed poetic about these [Back Door Donuts] sweet treats, and for excellent reason: Fresh, cheap, and available between 7 p.m. and 12:58 a.m. in-season from the rear door of Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery, these doughnuts might just be the island’s worst-kept secret (as demonstrated by the nightly long lines). Raised and cake varieties are on offer, and favorite flavors include maple-bacon and butternut crunch.”
Top of the menu. Photo credit: Back Door Bakery.
You know what other item is on their menu, “Famous Apple Fritters.” I too, am pacing with anticipation. Just don’t “fall” (seasonal pun) overboard on the ferry ride!
What is your favorite apple product/place on Cape Cod?
Fish n’ chips at The Squealing Pig, Provincetown. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
by Mike Shaw (September 1, 2021)
During a recent long weekend in Ptown, I embarked on a culinary adventure seeking out the best fish n’ chips in town. Well, that is, the best ‘catch‘ secret fish n’ chips among the several restaurants which I patronized! It’s quite difficult to imagine dining anywhere in Ptown – or the Cape, for that matter – and having an unsatisfactory meal.
Having visited Ptown many times over the years, I continue to be surprised and delighted by its diverse food scene. In a town most famous for its arts and culture, Ptown has a unique culinary history, too. It’s the town where Anthony Bourdain got his start. He spent a season living and working with other restaurant workers one summer, and it’s that gig that turned him onto the food scene. According to a June 2018 Cape Cod Times article, “Bourdain went from washing dishes at The Flagship to learn-on-the-job cooking positions there and at Ciro & Sal’s, both owned by Ciro Cozzi.”
In Ptown, there are so many restaurants and cafés, it’d take a full season to visit them all! Covering both the East and West End neighborhoods, I selected four restaurants to begin the critical research necessary towards finding an answer in this fish n’ chips quest.
Fish n’ chips at Pepe’s Wharf. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
Pepe’s Wharf is one of the town’s premier waterfront dining venues, just a 5 minute walk from Macmillan Pier overlooking Provincetown Harbor. On a nice day, you can enjoy your meal on one of two decks. During the peak season, you can expect to wait up to an hour for a seat at the popular outdoor bar on the second floor. The fish n’ chips is priced at $24 which includes fries and cole slaw.
About a 15 minute walk from the center of town, Fanizzi’s is a gem located in the East End and redefines waterfront dining as it literally stands above the water! It is open year round and offers a daily “Early Bird Special” from 4:30-6:00 p.m., which includes a starter and several entree options for less than $20. The fish n’ chips is priced at $21 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Fish n’ chips at Fanizzi’s Restaurant. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
The Squealing Pig is one of the most centrally located spots in town – a few minutes walk from MacMillan Pier – and provides a casual dining atmosphere. It has a sister property in Boston and is open year round. Channeling a pub-like aura, it has an expansive bar where you can dine and watch your favorite game and chat with the friendly bar staff. The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Fish n’ chips at Ross’s Grill. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
Tucked away on the second floor of Whaler’s Wharf, Ross’s Grill is a cozy European-style bistro which offers beautiful views of Provincetown Harbor and (limited) outdoor seating. It is open year round and reservations are a must, especially during peak season.
The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Now, the verdict (drumroll, please)! While I genuinely enjoyed each of my dining experiences throughout this culinary odyssey, one spot stood out to me in terms of the quality and quantity of fish n’ chips served. As of today, if someone asked me for a fish n’ chips recommendation in Ptown, my answer would be: The Squealing Pig!
If I discover that future fish n’ chip dishes give The Squealing Pig a run for its money, I’ll report back!
Cobie’s unassuming sign off Route 6A. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw, August 6, 2021
I’ve always been a fan of dining outdoors. While being seated outside at a fancy restaurant is usually enjoyable, I’m talking about picnicking, especially on Cape Cod beaches. As appreciation for the outdoors grows, especially in the area of dining and socializing, it may not be a surprise to hear, as the New York Times writes, “…and so we are living, it seems, in the golden age of the picnic.”
For decades, my family would regularly alternate between ‘pizza on the beach’ (Ridgevale Beach, Chatham; Nantucket Sound facing) or ‘fried seafood on the beach’ (Nauset Beach, Orleans; Atlantic Ocean facing) on summer evenings. In Nauset Beach’s case, the restaurant was Liam’s (of course it was!); the pizza rotated between George’s (Harwich Port), New England Pizza House #3 (Chatham), and Sweet Tomatoes (Chatham).
With a young family, nowadays we tend to migrate toward Cape Cod Bay (at low tide) for our beach escapades. A recent restaurant discovery checked two boxes of our goals to 1) dine outdoors, picnic-style and 2) dine near the beach. Cobie’s Clam Shack checks both boxes. Indeed, Cobie’s is our new ‘fried seafood near the beach’ (Linnell Landing Beach, Brewster; Cape Cod Bay facing).
Cobie (I assume) sharing today’s specials. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Since 1948, Cobie’s has been in business along bustling route 6A in Brewster. That would be 74 years of operation for those keeping score. The restaurant is close to Nickerson State Park and a five-minute drive from Stony Brook Park, home of Cape Cod Baseball League’s Brewster Whitecaps (currently playoff bound as the #1 seed in the East). A paved recreational path even connects the restaurant parking lot to the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
As a clam shack of yesteryear, the seating is completely outdoors, with a mix of covered patio tables and open air picnic tables in front and behind the building. There are two windows (and likely lines) to order from – one for food; the other for ice cream.
Cobie’s fried clam strip plate. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
During a recent visit, we were the last customers to order dinner. Despite a few lingering ice cream seekers, we basically had the entire outdoor patio to ourselves. And while the hour was approaching closing time, our food was not compromised. In fact, it was hot, fresh and plentiful.
The fried scallop plate had over a dozen sea scallops; with a crispy exterior, and juicy and soft interior. The fries were crispy and hot. The vinegar-based cole slaw was cold with a peppery kick, a delightful contrast to the steaming fried food. Previous trips involved plentiful fried clams, strips and clam chowder. No grievances have ever been filed.
“So Cape Cod,” was a customer’s reaction to seeing this curious parking job. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Cobie’s provides a comfortable, quick (for Cape Cod standards) and enjoyable casual outdoor dining experience – especially for picnic seekers. Just make sure you order before 7:30 p.m., their somewhat curious closing time.
