Places – Page 9 – HappyCapeCod

Tower Tour Part 2: Pilgrim Monument

America’s tallest granite-only structure resides on a hilly spot near the town center. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

by Mike Shaw

Few landmarks in Cape Cod – outside of the ubiquitous lighthouses dotting the 70 mile peninsula – are as instantly recognizable as Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown. Affectionately known as “Ptown,” Provincetown is best known for its artists, beaches, harbor, tourist industry, and inclusive vibe. The countercultural appeal of Ptown has held steady along with its growth as a tourist destination, becoming more popular as the town hosted festivals and week-long events throughout the year. Over the holidays, I had the good fortune to make several day trips to Ptown and learned more about the town’s rich history and mystique which keeps drawing people back.

But first, a little history of Ptown.

On a clear day, you can faintly see Boston’s skyline from the top of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Ptown is located at the tip of Cape Cod, encompassing about 18 square miles. Surrounded by water in nearly every direction, the town has approximately 20 miles of coastal shoreline. Ptown is bordered to the east by its only neighbor, Truro. About 70 percent of the town’s land area is owned by the National Park Service, which operates the Cape Cod National Seashore. To the north lie the Province Lands, the area of dunes and small ponds from Mount Ararat in the east to Race Point in the west. The Cape Cod Bay shoreline extends from Race Point to Wood End to Long Point, which in turn points inward towards the town, and provides a natural barrier for Provincetown Harbor. All three points are marked by lighthouses.

The fog rolls in during dusk. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

On September 6, 1620, the ship Mayflower set sail from Plymouth, England to a new land, carrying her crew and 102 passengers. About 60 days later, land was spotted off the coast of Cape Cod, far north of their intended destination at the mouth of the Hudson River. Disheartened by their difficult journey across the Atlantic, they sought shelter in Provincetown Harbor.

Though the Pilgrims settled across the bay in Plymouth, the area enjoyed an early reputation for its valuable fishing grounds. In 1727, the Precinct of Cape Cod was incorporated as a township. Ptown grew rapidly as a fishing and whaling center. The population was bolstered by numerous Portuguese sailors, many of whom settled in Ptown after being hired to work on U.S. ships.

Now onto the Monument!

A sign (and future reminder) of the times. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

The Pilgrim Monument was built (1907-10) to commemorate the landfall of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on November 11, 1620 and the signing of the Mayflower Compact, the Plymouth Colony’s first governing document, in Provincetown Harbor. Standing at 252 feet tall, the Monument dominates the town’s skyline and commands reverence and awe from all who gaze at her. By pure coincidence, I actually visited Ptown on the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims’ arrival – November 11, 2020. Without a fault, pilgrim displays adorned all corners of the town as it commemorated this most auspicious occasion. And, being COVID-mindful, all pilgrims wore facial coverings (can’t be too careful!).

According to the Provincetown Museum (link below): Work on the (monument’s) foundation began on June 20, 1907 and was completed on August 8, 1907. The cornerstone of the Pilgrim Monument was laid in an imposing Masonic ceremony on August 20, 1907. President Teddy Roosevelt attended the ceremony and gave the main speech. Roosevelt sailed into Provincetown harbor on the morning of the ceremony from his home in Oyster Bay, Long Island, on the presidential yacht (coincidentally named the Mayflower). Construction was begun on the Pilgrim Monument on June 18, 1908. The first piece of granite, weighing 4,000 pounds, was swung into place upon the foundation without any formal ceremony.

The 252-foot tall monument can be seen prominently from many Ptown neighborhoods. Photo credit: Mike Shaw,

Work continued until November 26, 1908, when it had to be stopped because of bad weather. It was resumed again on April 9, 1909, and continued throughout the rest of the year and into 1910. Ptown marked the official dedication of the Pilgrim Monument on August 5, 1910 with myriad special guests, including President William Howard Taft who arrived that morning on the government yacht Mayflower. The U.S. Government retained the right to use the Monument during wartime. During World War I it was used as a lookout tower and later during World War II it was rumored the tower was used as a testing area for secret communications experiments. The government did not relinquish control over the tower until 1959.

Provincetown Museum link: https://www.pilgrim-monument.org/building-the-monument/

The Ragnar Relay Cape Cod finish line and post-race party was held on the grounds of the monument. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Simply put, no trip to Ptown is complete without a visit to the Pilgrim Monument. Fuel up, pace yourself, and ascend the 116 steps to the top where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the town, Cape Cod Bay, and if you’re really lucky, Boston’s skyline. No matter what you can see, take a moment to soak up the significance of America’s tallest granite-only structure and its indelible place in our nation’s history. As locals like to say, when you’ve arrived in Ptown, you’re at the end of the world.

A tired but proud bunch finished in 3rd Place in the mixed submasters division! Photo credit: A kind stranger.

Lost Restaurant Series: Lobster Claw Restaurant

The final days of the Lobster Claw Restaurant following a 51-year run. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

“At the Lobster Claw Restaurant, great dining by the sea, at the Lobster Claw Restaurant, we’re one big family!” That catchy radio jingle captures, perhaps whimsically, the essence of the iconic seafood restaurant off Route 6A in Orleans.

For fifty-one years, Don and Marylou Berig owned and operated the award-winning Lobster Claw Restaurant, a “true Cape Cod tradition,” and staple of dining on Cape Cod for year-round residents and visitors.

At the beginning, the restaurant only had one dining room where reheated frozen fish was served on paper plates. When the Berig’s took the reins, they promptly opted for using fresh fish and real dishware, the former due to their familiarity with the fish business.

The menu certainly evolved, with namesake lobsters literally at the center. The menu promoted Broiled Lobster, Lobster Newburg, Deep Fried Lobster and Baked Stuffed Lobster. They also offered an early bird special with complimentary chowder and dessert with selection of an entrée.

A lobster roll, fish n chips and chowder “to go.” Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Like in most restaurants, a typical day began at 6:30 a.m., cleaning and setting up the dining room. By 7:30 am, deliveries arrived, some included over 100 pounds of fish, which Don cut up himself, which he had been doing since age 12. The lunch crowed arrived at 11:30 am and night owls closed down the place around 9:30 pm. Though, the Berigs were known to stay open if someone called and said they were on their way.

From Route 6A, the red exterior of the barn-shaped structure was hard to miss. Once inside, the nautically-themed interior dining rooms where fishing nets hang from the ceiling was hard to forget.

Don and Marylou were the cooks, cleaners, accountants and faces of the Lobster Claw Restaurant. But three generations of Berigs worked at the restaurant over the half-century. One hostess was employed at the restaurant for half a century. There were also more than a dozen workers from Jamaica who worked at the restaurant for years.

Ordering from the “left side” of the menu included complementary chowder and dessert during the early bird seating. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

At its peak, the 6,695-square foot restaurant had three dining rooms downstairs and the Surfboat Lounge upstairs. Normally 221 can be seated downstairs and 67 upstairs. In its heyday, the restaurant fed 500 people a day.

When Hurricane Bob hit the Cape in August 1991, the Lobster Claw was the only restaurant open in seven towns. The Lobster Claw staff ended up feeding 800 people over the course of a few days.

Some of the Lobster Claw accolades include “Best Family Restaurant,” “Best Lobster Roll” and “Best Clam Chowder” from Cape Cod Life Publications between 1994 and 2018. The restaurant also won “Best Fried Clams” in 2010 from Best of Boston.

A freshly cleaned and set nautical-themed dining room. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

Don credits the success of the restaurant to three things: cleanliness and décor, excellent food, and great employees. Berig was a self-described people person – and old school. Don was a natural tending bar, behind the boat-shaped bar, serving up Dewar’s Scotch, a favorite with the older crowd.

In his reflections at retirement, Don never felt running the restaurant was a job in the negative sense. “Exhaustion, surely,” he admitted. Running the restaurant was his life’s work; a labor of love.

Don and Marylou Berig operated the Lobster Claw Restaurant for 51 years. Photo credit: CapeCod.com

The Lobster Claw closed its doors on September 13, 2020. A medical center is expected to occupy the building.

Tower Tour Part 1: Jenny Lind Tower

By Mike Shaw

The narrow footpath to the mysterious Jenny Lind Tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

“I’m going on an adventure!” Just one week before Christmas, and channeling my inner Bilbo Baggins (you know, for the kids), I decided to take advantage of a (voluntary) two week self-quarantine to explore part of the Outer Cape which could provide a memorable yet socially distant experience. Upon receiving a suggested itinerary from my brother, Jeff (editor and founder of this very website), I hopped in the car in Chatham and worked my way east along Route 6 to North Truro. Besides the well-marked Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod, I wasn’t familiar with the expansive list of sites located along this historic highway. These spots are readily accessible to the public yet seemingly hidden from those visitors unaware of the rich history of this “bent elbow jutting into the Atlantic.” The destination: Jenny Lind Tower, a stone tower located within the Truro Highlands Historic District and nearby the North Truro Air Force Station.

A view of the Jenny Lind Tower in the distance from Old Dewline Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Before hitting the road, I conducted a preliminary Google search to confirm what the Tower looked like to expedite my upcoming quest. Directions for the approximately 30-mile journey from the Lower Cape are straightforward: take Route 6 East towards North Truro, right on South Highland Road, right onto Old Dewline Road, and Tower is on your left. Simple, right? While these directions are certainly accurate, it’s best to consider the old adage that “the devil is in the details.” Once on foot from Old Dewline Road, the walk towards the Tower among the surrounding woods is quite pleasant. At the end of Old Dewline Road, in addition to the sprawling grounds of the Payomet Performing Arts Center on the right, you’ll find three trails on the left as possible options to reach the Tower. Now the fun begins!

The National Park Service signage of the area. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

As it’s not initially obvious which path leads towards the Tower, I’d like to announce a spoiler alert! Based on my own experience, the second path (or “Door Number Two”) appears to be the best option to reach the Tower. The first path leads to a dead end road which is currently home to a maintenance facility, and the third one brings you towards the Air Force Station which is (unsurprisingly) restricted to U.S. Government personnel. While the second path is a tad uneven and gently rolls up-and-down, it will bring you alongside the secure fence of the Air Force Station, and the Tower will appear much closer to you along the Western horizon. Surrounding the Tower is a wooded area which, at first glance, doesn’t appear to have a clear footpath for those making the trek. After several failed attempts, I slowly walked along this wooded area and discovered a narrow path wide enough for one foot at a time; literally. Within three minutes (and after being whacked a few times by tree branches), I found myself at the base of the Tower and immediately marvelled at its simple yet unmistakable beauty. While it may lack common tourist features, like a Welcome Center, signage or gift shop, a fascinating history surrounds the Tower and the woman after which it is named.

A view from the first floor looking up into the well-worn inner walls. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

Based on myriad open sources, Jenny Lind was a world famous, Swedish-born soprano singer who toured throughout the United States in the mid-19th century. According to a January 2017 publication on CapeCod.com: “It is around this time that Lind’s connection to Cape Cod begins. Though she would not step foot on the peninsula, the tower that bears her name is indeed intertwined with her legacy. In early October of 1850, Lind would perform a show in Boston at one of the largest auditoriums in New England at the time. The popular myth is that the concert Jenny Lind performed at the depot in Boston was oversold with countless fans being left outside of the auditorium. These fans were understandably angry and were on the verge of causing a riot. In order to quell the masses, Lind is purported to have stepped out into one of the two stone towers of the building and sang to the crowd from one of the turrets.” (Link to January 2017 Cape Cod.com publication: https://www.capecod.com/lifestyle/the-story-of-the-jenny-lind-tower/)

A rotted wall (or doorway?) on the first level of the tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

While this historical account may never be proven, it’s hard not to be captivated by the notion of someone using innate gifts and talents to defuse a potentially dangerous moment for the masses – in fact, total strangers – gathered below. As I learned more about Jenny Lind’s story, it turns out that she encountered some competition from another bit of Cape Cod folklore. According to Bellamy’s Bride: The Search for Maria Hallett of Cape Cod by Kathleen Brunele(2010): “Local stories passed down for 300 years say that the ghost of Goody Hallett – known as “the Witch of Wellfleet”, “the Sea Witch of Eastham”, and “the Red Heeled Witch”, and was the lover of Samuel Bellamy, captain of the pirate ship Whydah Gally – haunts the woods of Truro and Wellfleet in central Cape Cod. Her banshee screams can be heard at sunset from the cliffs of Wellfleet as she curses the passing ships to cause them to wreck there as her lover Sam Bellamy did in 1717. Legends say that when Goody Hallett begins her haunting, the ghost of Jenny Lind once again ascends the tower to sing, and the beauty of her nightingale song repels Goody and frightens her away.”

Fitchberg Depot. Photo credit: Boston Public Library. Photo originally posted on CapeCod.com by Christopher Setterlund.

In a mythical sense, more than 170 years after Jenny Lind first rose to fame, one can hope and imagine that her indomitable spirit continues to live on not only within the Tower, but across the surrounding lands which will forever be connected to this distinctly Cape Cod legend.

Lost Restaurant Series: Fleming’s Restaurant

Flemings Restaurant, 2175 Main Street, South Chatham (also formerly Chatham Seafood House; Meservey’s Family Restaurant)

A vintage postcard of Flemings Restaurant. Photo credit: Atwood House & Museum.

“The place many wish they had found sooner.”

In 1961, the Fleming family decided to open a restaurant. Indeed, it was a family operation with father owner and general manager, son chef; and wife and daughter filling in where needed. Of all the members of the family, son Gene had more experience in the business having worked at both the Port Fortune Restaurant and the Wayside Inn in Chatham.

Flemings Restaurant was a seasonal establishment, as father Harold also worked in the real estate business. During a typical season, the 80-seat restaurant (later 120 seats) was opened every day of the week from June to Labor Day with long hours of 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. The restaurant employed twenty-six people, mostly college students earning money before returning to school in the fall.

A newspaper ad from the 1980s. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

The menu consisted of house specialties, fresh native seafoods, either broiled or fried, and purchased in Chatham “as they come off the boats.” Broiled steaks were another specialty, with guests selecting tenderloin, sirloin or a “special” steak. Lovers of Cape Cod Clam Chowder found a tasty and delicious native “stew.” Perhaps most memorable was the homemade cranberry nut bread, sourced locally.

In 1982, Herb and Dot Bremser of Chatham purchased the restaurant and renamed it Chatham Seafood House. Though, the name Flemings remained on the restaurant’s large sign adjacent to Route 28. The restaurant business was new to the Bremsers. Herb Bremser spent 38 years working on jet engines at Pratt and Whitney Aircraft in East Hartford, Connecticut, before retiring to Cape Cod. The restaurant was a second career as he ended up operating Flemings Chatham Seafood House, for over 25 years.

Chef William Hynes in front of the restaurant sign adjacent to Route 28. Photo credit: Maureen Grady.

Perhaps the most noticeable change to the restaurant was the “Isobar,” a full liquor lounge featuring weather-related charts on the wall, barometers and flags, and of course, the weather channel on the bar’s television. Indeed, isobar – the lines of equal barometric pressure seen on weather maps – was not just a pun. The weather theme was incorporated into the updated menu with dishes like Chicken Thunder, Gale Warning Sole, Shore Break Crab Cakes, and others.

In 2007, Doug Meservey (and wife Dawn) purchased the restaurant. The Meserveys spent decades in the racing world and promptly re-named the restaurant’s bar with a NASCAR-theme; the Pit Stop. The bar decor featured vintage photographs of Chatham’s former race track that once featured dune buggy races in the 1960s and 1970s. During the summer season, the restaurant hosted car shows with the Cape Cod Cruisers Thursday nights from 6:00-8:00 p.m.

Former Meservey’s Family Restaurant. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

In 2013, the 1.36-acre property was purchased by the Town of Chatham for open space with Community Preservation Act funds. The land is designated Cockle Cove Creek Headwaters Reforestation Project, which creates a continuous green corridor along this stretch of Main Street, while restoring wildlife habitat and protecting water quality by stabilizing soils and absorbing excess nutrients.

Only the driveway remains of the former restaurant. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Beanstock Coffee

Author’s Note: Happy Sno-vember! Yes, the pre-Halloween snowfall in much of the northeast has me dreaming for an early winter wonderland. My passion for winter is baked into skiing, which can be understood by listening to my skiing podcast, Powder Hounds Podcast, featuring mostly northeast ski areas, with a particular interest in the smaller, family and independently run hills. It can also be read in a previous post talking about skiing on Cape Cod!

While the cold days and early darkness of winter can be tough for continuing to enjoy the outdoors; layer up and get the gear to explore (snowshoes, skis, skins, etc). It also may be helpful to get your mind thinking of the “cozy” aspects of winter; hot chocolate, crackling fireplaces, warm blankets and the simple joys of tastes, smells and sights of the holidays. Another hot beverage – coffee – is a must for many on a wintery morning. Opt for locally roasted Beanstock for that next cup ‘o joe!

Beanstock Coffee, Eastham

As I happily admitted previously, I’m a little picky when it comes to coffee. I don’t mean to be, but I’ve tasted the highest of highs; coffee roasted perfectly, steaming with flavor, served immediately; to the lowest of the lows, lukewarm diner slop brewed hours ago, left on a low heat burner. Like many things in life, once you experience the best, it’s hard to go back to anything less. That brings me to our featured local business and their product – Beanstock Coffee. Full disclosure, I am a happy repeat customer with a recurring subscription.

Support local! Photo credit: Beanstock Coffee.

But before going full-on auto-renew subscription, I discovered Beanstock by visiting local cafes for “joe to go” and scanning shelves while waiting. In an earlier post, Coffee on Cape Cod, I mentioned Beth’s Bakery (Sandwich), Chatham Cookware & Cafe (Chatham) and Savory & Sweet Escape (Truro), and inadvertently referenced just three of at least three dozen restaurants and cafes spanning not just Cape Cod, but the continental United States, that feature Beanstock Coffee. (You read that right; thanks L.A.!)

For the customer, the reason is obvious, the coffee tastes great and the seemingly endless range of blends and flavors (light-decaf gamit), types (organic, fair trade, cold brew, etc) and grinds (whole bean, drip grind, fine grind, etc) are available. Indeed, at twenty-three blends available for purchase online, it’s an impressive portfolio. Even the merchandise is fun; “Ommph.”

Lots of good vibe swag available at their Roasting Facility in Eastham. Photo credit: Beanstock Coffee.

Beanstock Coffee was born in 1996 as a small coffee shop tucked into the Inn at Duck Creek on Main St. in Wellfleet. The smell of freshly brewed coffee and freshly baked goods wafting through the air attracted the first customers. Since those early days, Beanstock has grown not just as a specialty coffee roaster, but as an internet retailer and coffee wholesaler. They roast their coffee locally, in small batches, to guarantee maximum freshness. Their commitment to top quality, fair trade and organically grown beans is evident in their messaging. In non-pandemic times, you can tour their roasting facility in Eastham.

Each package of coffee is brimming with good vibes; both the beans inside and the advice on the outside. The team at Beanstock “is always curious and ever-evolving with the beautiful and fascinating world of coffee.” On the side panel of their packaging, you’ll find Beanstock’s signature tagline, “Coffee is Personal” with some suggestions to brewing your best cup at home. One line that stays with me, “Buy in small batches, and only what you’ll use in a week or two [to maximize freshness]. They rather you buy less coffee per transaction, to prevent multiple packages of beans/ground from getting stale in the cupboard. I like that.

If you have not yet had Beanstock Coffee, you must give it a try. After all, it’s easy to find.