Last spring, when the weather was warming and excitement for summer was brewing, I read an article by Eric Williams, Cape Cod Times, (and one of my favorite Cape media personality) arguing that June is the best month on Cape Cod. Yes, June is one of the best, but I put it in second place. For me, it’s all about September.
Don’t get me wrong, our reasons are nearly identical. The months of June and September:
Avoid the enormous crowds of July and August,
The weather is still warm for outdoor living,
Daylight still lasts until after 7:00 pm and
You don’t have to pay to park at town beaches.
But after “pond-ering” (a nod to Eric Williams kettle pond adventures) a little deeper, I am convinced that September reigns supreme. Whether not you agree, I hope you’ll join me on my quest to K.S.A…keep summer alive!
(1) Seasonal Festivals. Sure, the classic summer outdoor experiences (town band stand concerts, Cape League baseball games and parades) are done for the season, but that just means space is open for fall festivals. Festival events occur every weekend, some run for multiple days and happily continue into the winter. Like, this past weekend was the 13th Annual Doxie Day! How can you beat that?!?
The 13th Annual Cape Cod Doxie Day was held in Barnstable on September 25, 2021. My lovely wife won the Octoberfest raffle prize. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Enough Daylight. No question, June daylight pushes the 9:00 pm envelope and that is fantastic. But September daylight still lasts beyond 7:00 pm, just enough time for 9 holes of after-work golf.
“Lobster-Doxie,” during the costume parade at Cape Cod Doxie Day. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
No Crowds. Visiting families with school-aged children, college students and tourists have all returned home. Unless you are going to Mac’s Seafood on a Friday night, you won’t have to worry about crowds or parking this time of year. While staffing shortages certainly pose(d) challenges- and showed the ugly side of inpatient visitors, sadly – businesses (say, restaurants) are well in rhythm by the end of the season.
Who said you can’t swim in September (26) at Cockle Cove Beach, Chatham? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Water Still Warm. The ocean, bay and ponds are still warm, though cooler air will greet you upon your water exit. Need proof? My home base – Ridgevale Beach – and the iconic Snack Bar operates food and sailboat rentals through mid-October.
The Ridgevale Beach, Chatham, salt marsh with Buck’s Creek Bridge in the distance. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Stickerless Beaches – with dogs! Now is the time to visit any beach you ever heard about. All town beaches stop checking for parking passes on Labor Day, and most allow dogs back on the beach in September.
The former wireless transmission site, Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw (May 16, 2021)
Author’s Note: Picture this: a bright blue sky, the smell of salty air and fallen pine needles, the sounds of chirping birds, breaking waves and rumbling motor boats. Among a bustling fishing village and northeast vacation destination is both the literal foundation and historical sites that much of modern communication was built upon – even GPS tracking FKTs!
The location is Chatham, Massachusetts, an Atlantic Ocean facing Cape Cod town. The historical site is the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center, celebrating the final of three consecutive centennials commemorating the first trans-Atlantic and wireless maritime communication (a notable example is the Titanic’s distress signal). The man was radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi, who won the Nobel Prize in physics in 1909 for his work in wireless telegraphy.
All smiles as I attempt to create a historic route and set a fastest known time! Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Chatham Marconi Wireless Route
I call this route the “Chatham Marconi Wireless Route,” ideal for American history lovers, tech buffs and beach bums alike! The inspiration for the route was the “Antenna Trail Challenge,” a first-ever virtual event encouraging people to visit the remaining historic sites.
The route is a historic, coast to coast sprint, featuring a combination of surfaces: dirt trail, road, paved recreation path, and sandy beach trail. The route follows modern day roads and trails that connect the original marine radio wireless transmitting stations in North and South Chatham.
I was sure to share the route with the Race Director, so who knows, perhaps this route will be the future 5K route of Antenna Challenges!
Forest Beach Conservation Area. From the overlook, you can see former concrete pilings and poles, now historic markers. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Start – Chatham Marconi Maritime Museum, North Chatham
The route begins on the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center grounds, at the top of the hill of the outdoor Antenna Field Trail at the bench and informational sign. The trail descends quickly into the parking lot that leads to Orleans Road with the sparkling emerald blue waters of Ryders Cove in view.
Orleans Road to Old Comers Road
Turn right out of the parking lot onto Orleans Road, passing two restored buildings on the Center grounds. Turn right onto Old Comers Road. The term “old comers” is an old Cape Cod term for families that came over on the Mayflower. Another historical site along this route, is a smallpox cemetery at the 1.5 mile mark, part of “The Triangle” conservation area.
The sandy path begins at the Forest Beach parking lot and ends at Mill Creek. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Sam Ryder Road to West Pond Road (to Old Colony Rail Trail)
Turn left onto Sam Ryder Road. Sam Ryder was part of the fishing family of which Ryders Cove bear his last name. Turn left onto West Pond Road and immediately bear right onto the Old Colony Rail Trail Volunteer Park Extension.
Turn right onto Old Colony Rail Trail. Another historic site, the Old Colony Rail Trail is a paved pathway that runs the length of the former Chatham railway, eventually intersecting with the iconic Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich.
A beautiful summer day at Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Morton Road to Forest Beach Road
Turn left onto Morton Road. At the intersection with Route 28, continue straight onto Forest Beach Road. Use the crosswalk.
Turn left onto Bay View Road. Keep right up the small hill, which is the Forest Beach Conservation Area. At the top of the hill is an overlook of the salt marsh that was the location of the former wireless transmission site. A handful of poles and four concrete pilings remain as historical reminders. At the overlook informational sign, turn around and head back down the way you came toward Forest Beach Road.
The rock jetty at Mill Creek. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Finish – Rock Jetty at Mill Creek Entrance (between Forest Beach & Cockle Cove), South Chatham
Turn left onto Forest Beach Road into the beach parking lot. Halfway into the parking lot is a sandy path on the left.
Take a left onto the sandy path. Bare left onto the lower path. Finish at the large metal “5-MPH” Ideal Speed sign at the rock jetty entrance to Mill Creek.
Bask in an incredible view of Nantucket Sound from this remote beach!
I fell in love with the view of this remote stretch of Forest Beach and returned for the sunset. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Fish n’ chips at The Squealing Pig, Provincetown. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
by Mike Shaw (September 1, 2021)
During a recent long weekend in Ptown, I embarked on a culinary adventure seeking out the best fish n’ chips in town. Well, that is, the best ‘catch‘ secret fish n’ chips among the several restaurants which I patronized! It’s quite difficult to imagine dining anywhere in Ptown – or the Cape, for that matter – and having an unsatisfactory meal.
Having visited Ptown many times over the years, I continue to be surprised and delighted by its diverse food scene. In a town most famous for its arts and culture, Ptown has a unique culinary history, too. It’s the town where Anthony Bourdain got his start. He spent a season living and working with other restaurant workers one summer, and it’s that gig that turned him onto the food scene. According to a June 2018 Cape Cod Times article, “Bourdain went from washing dishes at The Flagship to learn-on-the-job cooking positions there and at Ciro & Sal’s, both owned by Ciro Cozzi.”
In Ptown, there are so many restaurants and cafés, it’d take a full season to visit them all! Covering both the East and West End neighborhoods, I selected four restaurants to begin the critical research necessary towards finding an answer in this fish n’ chips quest.
Fish n’ chips at Pepe’s Wharf. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
Pepe’s Wharf is one of the town’s premier waterfront dining venues, just a 5 minute walk from Macmillan Pier overlooking Provincetown Harbor. On a nice day, you can enjoy your meal on one of two decks. During the peak season, you can expect to wait up to an hour for a seat at the popular outdoor bar on the second floor. The fish n’ chips is priced at $24 which includes fries and cole slaw.
About a 15 minute walk from the center of town, Fanizzi’s is a gem located in the East End and redefines waterfront dining as it literally stands above the water! It is open year round and offers a daily “Early Bird Special” from 4:30-6:00 p.m., which includes a starter and several entree options for less than $20. The fish n’ chips is priced at $21 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Fish n’ chips at Fanizzi’s Restaurant. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
The Squealing Pig is one of the most centrally located spots in town – a few minutes walk from MacMillan Pier – and provides a casual dining atmosphere. It has a sister property in Boston and is open year round. Channeling a pub-like aura, it has an expansive bar where you can dine and watch your favorite game and chat with the friendly bar staff. The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Fish n’ chips at Ross’s Grill. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.
Tucked away on the second floor of Whaler’s Wharf, Ross’s Grill is a cozy European-style bistro which offers beautiful views of Provincetown Harbor and (limited) outdoor seating. It is open year round and reservations are a must, especially during peak season.
The fish n’ chips is priced at $20 and includes fries and cole slaw.
Now, the verdict (drumroll, please)! While I genuinely enjoyed each of my dining experiences throughout this culinary odyssey, one spot stood out to me in terms of the quality and quantity of fish n’ chips served. As of today, if someone asked me for a fish n’ chips recommendation in Ptown, my answer would be: The Squealing Pig!
If I discover that future fish n’ chip dishes give The Squealing Pig a run for its money, I’ll report back!
Cobie’s unassuming sign off Route 6A. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw, August 6, 2021
I’ve always been a fan of dining outdoors. While being seated outside at a fancy restaurant is usually enjoyable, I’m talking about picnicking, especially on Cape Cod beaches. As appreciation for the outdoors grows, especially in the area of dining and socializing, it may not be a surprise to hear, as the New York Times writes, “…and so we are living, it seems, in the golden age of the picnic.”
For decades, my family would regularly alternate between ‘pizza on the beach’ (Ridgevale Beach, Chatham; Nantucket Sound facing) or ‘fried seafood on the beach’ (Nauset Beach, Orleans; Atlantic Ocean facing) on summer evenings. In Nauset Beach’s case, the restaurant was Liam’s (of course it was!); the pizza rotated between George’s (Harwich Port), New England Pizza House #3 (Chatham), and Sweet Tomatoes (Chatham).
With a young family, nowadays we tend to migrate toward Cape Cod Bay (at low tide) for our beach escapades. A recent restaurant discovery checked two boxes of our goals to 1) dine outdoors, picnic-style and 2) dine near the beach. Cobie’s Clam Shack checks both boxes. Indeed, Cobie’s is our new ‘fried seafood near the beach’ (Linnell Landing Beach, Brewster; Cape Cod Bay facing).
Cobie (I assume) sharing today’s specials. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Since 1948, Cobie’s has been in business along bustling route 6A in Brewster. That would be 74 years of operation for those keeping score. The restaurant is close to Nickerson State Park and a five-minute drive from Stony Brook Park, home of Cape Cod Baseball League’s Brewster Whitecaps (currently playoff bound as the #1 seed in the East). A paved recreational path even connects the restaurant parking lot to the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
As a clam shack of yesteryear, the seating is completely outdoors, with a mix of covered patio tables and open air picnic tables in front and behind the building. There are two windows (and likely lines) to order from – one for food; the other for ice cream.
Cobie’s fried clam strip plate. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
During a recent visit, we were the last customers to order dinner. Despite a few lingering ice cream seekers, we basically had the entire outdoor patio to ourselves. And while the hour was approaching closing time, our food was not compromised. In fact, it was hot, fresh and plentiful.
The fried scallop plate had over a dozen sea scallops; with a crispy exterior, and juicy and soft interior. The fries were crispy and hot. The vinegar-based cole slaw was cold with a peppery kick, a delightful contrast to the steaming fried food. Previous trips involved plentiful fried clams, strips and clam chowder. No grievances have ever been filed.
“So Cape Cod,” was a customer’s reaction to seeing this curious parking job. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Cobie’s provides a comfortable, quick (for Cape Cod standards) and enjoyable casual outdoor dining experience – especially for picnic seekers. Just make sure you order before 7:30 p.m., their somewhat curious closing time.
This basic question – Is Falmouth Cape Cod?, has been gnawing on me for a while. Silly as it may seem, and equally questionable my posing it considering I rarely visit the Upper Cape, I remain undeterred.
Don’t get me wrong, Falmouth has plenty of going on. It is considered the “gateway” to Martha’s Vineyard thanks to its proximity to the island and requisite ferry service; it is home to the renowned Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute, the premier Falmouth Road Race, the iconic Shining Sea Bikeway, and most of its villages have picturesque views of Buzzards Bay or Vineyard Sound. It was the birthplace of Katherine Lee Bates, who wrote “America the Beautiful,” likely inspired by the natural beauty of the land and sea.
It also happens to be the second most populated town. That word “second” is actually what my theory is based upon – Falmouth is second to Barnstable and not happy about it.
As mentioned above, Falmouth is the second most populated Cape Cod town. Guess which town is first? Barnstable of course! Falmouth was settled in 1660 (incorporated in 1686). Guess what year Barnstable was settled? 1637, a whopping two decades before (though Sandwich, Bourne and Yarmouth were settled even earlier).
If you are into baseball, then you may chuckle at this ridiculous fact – Falmouth has the second most runner-up finishes in the Cape Cod Baseball League finals since their last championship – 1980. Adding insult to injury, they also have the longest championship drought of any active franchise since 1980. Ouch.
My point is Falmouth, as solid as its offerings are, seems relegated to “runner-up” status when it comes to Barnstable. Put another way, Falmouth is the sidekick to Barnstable; the Robin to Barnstable’s Batman; the Sundance to the Barnstable’s Butch Cassidy. This beef may go back more than a century.
As marketing professionals would expect (and suggest), a lot of attractions on Cape Cod have the words “Cape Cod” in their name. Well, “duh” you might say. In Barnstable, examples include: Cape Cod Central Railroad (Hyannis Depot), Cape Cod Mall, Cape Cod Maritime Museum, Cape Codder Resort, Cape Cod Beer and plenty more.
As it turns out, Falmouth may have embraced this strategy to make a case for themselves as the center of Cape Cod. Below are some examples:
Cape Cod Fairgrounds logo.
Cape Cod Fairgrounds (East Falmouth), 1884
Perhaps the most ironic name, the Cape Cod Fairgrounds in Falmouth is the home of the Barnstable County Fair. You can NOT make that up. And yes, I know the county Cape Cod resides is Barnstable County. But still, that’s pretty funny. Also the Fair is happening this week!
Notice the entire Cape is featured in the logo.
Cape Cod Country Club (East Falmouth), 1928
As one of the earliest golf courses on the Cape, the Cape Cod Country Club name suggests it is the “center” of golf on Cape Cod. It is located in Falmouth. Interestingly, Barnstable opened a golf course in 1992, named the Old Barnstable Fairgrounds Golf Course. I can’t find the exact history, but believe an agricultural and livestock fair was hosted by the Barnstable County Agricultural Society in the mid-1800s on some fairgrounds. Still, the fact that Barnstable and Falmouth each have fairgrounds, no other Cape towns have/had them, is worth noting.
My finisher medal and iron-on commemorative t-shirt! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Cape Cod Marathon (Falmouth), 1996
Yet again, Barnstable and Falmouth lock horns. There are two marathons hosted on Cape Cod. Guess where they are located? You’re getting the hang of this exercise! Certainly Barnstable (Hyannis Marathon and Half Marathon) and Falmouth (Cape Cod Marathon).
Now I’ve run both races, and have somewhat comical recounts of each. In 2013, I was volunteering at the Hyannis Marathon and Half Expo, ran into a friend who sprained her ankle, who gave me her bib to run in her place. Having not run much over the winter (the event is held annually in February), I was huffing and puffing at mile 5, but for whatever reason, I recall this glorious tail wind that pushed me along the final miles and assisted in a respectable finish time. My friends were cheering me on at the finish line and it was all smiles.
Conversely, in 2014, I completed my first marathon in Falmouth. Hooray, right? However, I assumed the finish line area would be the place to get food and fuel upon finishing. Most races provide water, food, fuel, even a beer ticket, etc., along with medals, at or near the finish line. Not Falmouth; the water, food and fuels was back at the school/Expo, over a half mile away! There were not as many smiles at the Falmouth finish line.
Notice the entire Cape is featured in the logo. Photo credit: Cape Cod Winery.
Cape Cod Winery (East Falmouth), 2014
And finally, some wine. The recently opened Cape Cod Winery, located on a former strawberry farm, is in Falmouth. But the old guard of craft brewing is Cape Cod Beer (opened in 2004). Not only is Cape Cod Beer located in Barnstable, but has a dedicated tap line in almost every Cape Cod restaurant and bar.
Sorry Falmouth, but Barnstable is winning.
Now sure, plenty of businesses, cultural sites, even natural resources on Cape Cod have “Cape Cod” in their name (Cape Cod Rail Trail-Dennis+, Cape Cod Light-Truro, Cape Cod Creamery-Yarmouth+, Cape Cod Lanterns-Chatham; Cape Cod Realty-Orleans, Cape Cod Sea Camps-Brewster, Cape Cod National Seashore-Eastham+, etc.). Some off Cape businesses do too (Cape Cod Café-Raynham+) just to attract the wandering eye.
But Barnstable and Falmouth take the name game to the next level. Just don’t finish second.
