HappyCapeCod

2019 ‘About Cape Cod’ Summer Reading List

Author’s Note: One of the simplest joys of summer is none other than reading outside in the warm sunshine. Whether stretched out on a comfy chaise lounge with the newspaper, siting at the waters edge digging your feet in the sand while burying oneself in a book, or swaying gently in a hammock flipping through the pages of a magazine, relaxing by way of reading outdoors is a common summer activity. Truth be told, I look forward to reading an actual newspaper on the patio on a lazy weekend morning. “Push notification” news can wait. I find that reading outside slows down the day, a big plus in the summer. The quieter the space, the better, though I’ll gladly attempt to read among the chaos of a mid-summer day at the beach. I love getting lost in a story. Fact or fiction, reading is informative, can be transformative, and possibly both.

In preparation for an upcoming trip to Bermuda, I’ve packed three paper back books, along with three crossword puzzles from a few newspapers, and a book of codewords (think crosswords without clues). The only time I plan to look at my phone is to take pictures, listen to music (the Bob Marley, Jimmy Buffett, Beach Boys, kind) or capture a thought (note) if a pen and paper are hard to come by.

While there are no shortage of “summer reading lists” for kids on summer break, those of us beyond the years of reading The Great Gatsby, Catcher in the Rye, and Adventures of Tom and Huck, there are plenty of books about Cape Cod to add to your reading queue. Some books are heavy and historical, focusing on the turn of the twentieth century, lifestyles that describe a very different Cape Cod than any of us know. Others are quick reads that leave a grin on our faces. A few stories stay with us long after they’ve been put back on the shelf. I hope you enjoy my top picks to learn more about Cape Cod this summer.

Baseball by the Beach: A History of America’s National Pastime on Cape Cod (1998), Christopher Price. Like a high tide, excitement around America’s pastime first washed over the 339 square miles of Cape Cod’s peninsula over almost two centuries ago. Author Christopher Price takes us back in time to the origins of the “Massachusetts game” (1840s) as well as when the first organized (documented) baseball game occurred on Cape Cod (1866) by The Nichols Baseball Club of Sandwich. Like anything, baseball on Cape Cod evolved from those early, loosely organized teams with rosters consisting of mostly of local players, to the modern day NCAA-sanctioned league it is today. With many future major leagues breaking out – or more accurately, standing out in front of countless scouts in the stands – it’s hard not to get excited about catching a look at the “future stars of tomorrow today.” After long hours on the sand, watching a game from a beach chair on a crisp summer evening is a great way to relax at the end the day. Go A’s!

Cottage for Sale, Must be Moved: A Woman Moves a House to Make a Home (2005), Kate Whouley. The title is not misleading, author and mover extraordinaire, Kate Whouley, bought an abandoned cottage and had it moved across four Cape Cod towns to attach it to her three bedroom house! When thinking about the landscape of Cape Cod, its hard not to think of seaside cottages dotting the coast, a product of a bygone era now replaced with second home, “McMansions” by mostly “off-Capers.”. Not only are cottages authentic, charming, and affordable, they are small enough to actually get lifted off the ground and re-located. That’s exactly what Kate Whouloy did, along with the help of an army of professional contractors, movers, tradesman, friends, family and her trusted cat, Egypt. It’s a delightful read.

Historic Restaurants of Cape Cod (2017), Christopher Setterlund. While Cape Cod is known for breathtaking scenery and some of the best beaches on the eastern seaboard, many visitors come for the food. Fresh seafood is the main attraction given the Cape’s long maritime history. Mr. Setterlund identifies some of the most historic and iconic restaurants on Cape Cod, though sadly, some of them are long gone as original owners retired and preferences changed. However, this quick read features interviews with past owners and general managers that tell trivia worthy tales, like when the late former Senator Ted Kennedy held a fund-raiser at the Cleaver Restaurant, the free raw bar at the Christopher Ryder House, or the time Jay Leno appeared at Tuesday comedy night at Christine’s. And those are just a few stories from restaurants that begin with the letter “C.” Just wait until you get to The Beacon Restaurant, Mildred’s Restaurant, and Thompson’s Clam Bar. You’ll want to drive east for a fresh lobster roll or fried fisherman’s platter after turning a few pages of this book.

Journey to Outermost House (1991), Nan Turner Walden. Without argument, the first thing people picture when hearing the words “Cape Cod,” are the beaches. People spend precious vacation days to sit on the sun-baked sand and bask in the water, not to mention pay exorbitant parking fees and pack an entire house worth of stuff to set-up their spot on the beach. Well, imagine living on that beach. Strike that, imagine living on that beach, located two miles from the nearest town and the nearest person. That is the context for this next read. Despite having not yet read the book author Nat Turner Waldren’s book is based on, it was impossible not to follow her along the sandy shores of the Atlantic Ocean toward the two-room cottage by the sea. (Don’t worry, Henry Beston’s classic is on my reading list.) Nan Turner Walden essentially replicated Henry Beston’s life-changing experience of living in isolation on the “Great Beach” of Cape Cod, two miles from the mainland (Eastham). As the author re-discovered the natural world by detaching from the modern world, she spent so much time at the house she eventually “bested” Henry Beston’s one year of living on the beach to her seven years. Years later the Outermost House was gifted to the Massachusetts Audubon Society and can be rented by anyone seeking a similar experience, albeit, shorter than that of Henry and Nan.

Voyages from Chatham: A Memoir (2016), Captain Bob Ryder. There is something captivating about life on the sea. Perhaps it’s simply the adventure, the unknown of what lurks beneath, or the wonder of what could be discovered in the distance. Whales breach, birds dive, seals pop up and have a look around, herring “run,” waves form, wind blows, tides change. The constant churn is what makes us respect the ocean and have a ton of respect for those that spend their lives on it Indeed, the ocean is the workplace of old-time (and I suppose some present day) pirates, but more importantly, modern day fishermen who make their living from their daily catch. Captain Ryder, whose family has a cove named after them in Chatham, describes a career at sea, encountering almost any and every situation you could possibly think of – and more. After reading some of his adventures and mis-adventures, it’s hard not to look at the seafood on our plates with a different perspective. If you see a fisherman, thank them.

What other books about Cape Cod would you recommend reading?

Weird, Wonderful & Cutthroat World of Croquet

Antigua Galley Bay Croquet Club members, Kat, Jeff, Matt and Matt pose after a casually competitive evening croquet match.

Author’s Note: There are moments in life when you “re-discover something” and “it” makes an impression on you, maybe even changes your perspective. Those moments can come at any time and in many forms; say, experiencing the natural environment in a way removed from technology, noise and other people, hiking Mount Mansfield in the warm sunshine at the base only to find a cloud-covered, bitterly cold wind storm at the summit; literally stopping to smell the roses on a trail run, or just driving west on the highway catching the sun setting in the distance. Just the simple act of sipping coffee on the back deck on a bright summer morning, the only sounds are birds chirping and a lawn getting mowed in the distance. New perspectives certainly can result after traveling to a new place, immersing in another culture, language, foods and realizing those little things in life we often take for granted. It may also come from a conversation on an unexpected topic with a trusted friend or colleague. Point is, we are constantly discovering or re-discovering things that keep life interesting.

Well, to keep this seemingly deep philosophical dive entertaining, a recent “re-discovery” that brought me immense joy and a new perspective, was none other than a croquet set. Laugh all you want, but hear me out. Picture this: an off-the-beaten path all-inclusive beachfront resort set on the beautiful Caribbean island of Antigua; 80 degree days of sunshine, gently breaking waves always in view, an actual manicured lawn set-up for croquet and six competitive adults with brand-new wooden mallets to break-in. Did I mention the resort was all-inclusive? Sure, we needed to brush up on the rules we may have picked up as kids fooling around with the cheap (yet surprisingly durable) set from Bradlees that later became a dusty fixture in the garage. That same set has been restored and used regularly in the backyard, though the view is a bit different than on Antigua. It is also a little ironic that not just one, not just two but THREE different references to “croquet on Cape Cod” found its way into my reading list since that vacation. A 2011 Boston.com article backs up this new-found appreciation for a seemingly trivial activity, “the weird, wonderful – and absolutely cutthroat – world of competitive croquet.” Therefore, I give you, croquet on Cape Cod!

Ellen practicing in the morning sunshine a few days before her croquet singles tournament title.

Croquet 101

First, a little history. The origins of croquet date back between 150 and 600 years depending who you ask, though the game came from Europe. According to one source, croquet was imported from France to England by King Charles II in the 17th century, and has roots extending back to the 14th century in Europe. Others say croquet was invented in the British Isles in the mid-19th century. Not surprisingly, croquet has evolved over the years of tweaking by countries around the world. For our purposes, the history doesn’t really matter, I just want to share the existence of this growing sport that is making a comeback right here on Cape Cod.

Need a refresher on modern day croquet? I got you covered. American six wicket croquet is the most popular form of play from leisurely backyard BBQs to cutthroat club tournaments, say, on the island of Antigua in December 2018… This format has six iron wickets, one stake, four heavy, plastic balls weighing a standard one pound, each played by a player on opposing teams of two each (or four balls played by each of two opposing players). Feel free to amend the rules if you have more than four players or face a time crunch. For the more serious players, “Deadness” boards help keep track of play. Players use mallets sized about 36 inches for adults. The standard court is 105 by 84 feet (35 yards by 28 yards) but the court is scaled down when short grass (one quarter inch) is not available. Like tennis, croquet tradition requires wearing white clothing.

There is an official, national organization, United States Croquet Association (USCA), whose mission is to grow and govern the sport in America. It was organized in 1977 by Jack Osborn, and currently boasts 300 member clubs and 3,000 members, hosting “official” tournaments each year. Much of the sports growth is attributed to partnerships with golf courses (short cut, manicured grass), resorts (guest activities) and municipal parks (public recreation) that can maintain dedicated lawns for play. Due to costs and level of organization, not all croquet clubs are created equal or members of the USCA, though three out of the four below are members. Some clubs are an activity offered at a private club, others operate as an actual nonprofit organization, the rest, are regular gathering of enthusiasts.

Looking for a place to play on Cape Cod? There are a few options.

The Cape Cod Chronicle’s June 6,2019 edition including a letter-to-the editor from the Chase Park Croquet Club about their relocation.

Chatham

Chase Park Croquet Club (formerly Pleasant Bay Croquet Club), is an established organization with over 35 members who play at all levels. They group changed their name after losing their home on the Pleasant Bay waterfront last year, as it sought to re-locate to Chase Park (hence Chase Park Croquet Club), where a closely manicured lawn for bocce is already in use. The group actually went before the town park and recreation commission – in traditional white attire – for official recognition and re-location of play and got it! The club is experienced in setting up croquet courts, teaching and will share a few thousand dollars worth of croquet equipment (wickets, balls, mallets, boundary markers, a deadness board, and a bench) at their new location. The club was even prepared to pay for weekly mowing of the lawn if called for. The Chase Park Croquet Club is open to anyone and welcomes new members. For more information, contact Diane Siptrom at chaseparkcroquet@gmail.com.

Just like D-Day from Animal House, “Whereabouts unknown.”

Martha’s Vineyard

Edgartown Croquet Club (ECC), which was written about extensively in 2015, but has been elusive in terms of recent activities (though they are listed as “community partners” on a 2019 Boys and Girls Club webpage.) Still, in 2015 the Martha’s Vineyard Times covered the 2015 Edgartown Croquet Club tournament with much acclaim, “And the game they play is an exhausting combination of skill, timing, and strategy. Think chess on grass or billiards on the lawn. Last Saturday the four remaining teams in the ECC doubles tournament squared off in a round-robin format to determine the 2015 winner. Bill Elbow and Joan Collins won over Bill Blakesly and Susie Herr for the laurels, after eight hours of play.” The article went on to reference the club’s 25 active members and that it played matches on their home lawn near the Martha’s Vineyard Boys and Girls Club. If you happen to be on the Vineyard this summer, swing by the Boys and Girls Club to play! For more information, contact James Turner at jlturne@gmail.com.

The iconic Westmoor Flag.

Nantucket

The Westmoor Club, a private member club that offers everything from overnight stays, elegant dining, boating, lawn sports and wellness, on a picturesque seaside of Nantucket. There are a few membership categories (full member, associate member and winter membership options) to attract folks, but croquet is just one of many activities for members. I was particularly impressed with their description of croquet at the club, “Truly, the “Lord of Lawn Sports,” the intriguing and tactically challenging game of Croquet has earned a special place at Westmoor. Located on the field of dreams, the croquet field is open seven days a week. The Westmoor Club also hosts Croquet and Cocktails every Monday, in-season.” Croquet and cocktails, sounds like they know what they’re doing. For more information, contact Wayne Davies (508) 228-9494.

Sandwich

Sandwich Croquet Club, is an established club that is located at the Sandwich Hollows Golf Club. Arguably the most well organized (they have a Board of Directors) and active club (over two dozen members, detailed website) on the Cape and Islands, the Sandwich Croquet Club plays 6 wicket, 9 wicket and golf croquet weekly on Tuesdays (2-4pm), Thursdays (5-7pm), Saturdays (10am-12pm) and Sundays (3-5pm) from May to November. The agreement with Sandwich Hollows Golf Club includes maintaining four croquet lawns for play. The lawn is open to members to use whenever they want for practice; outside of scheduled play, tournaments and maintenance. The group also goes out to dinner after scheduled play at either the Clubhouse Restaurant or nearby restaurants. For more information, contact Jean Lynch at jlynch8488@gmail.com.

Anyone else eager to don on white attire and meet up on the lawn?

Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod

Boats tied up on Sundancer’s dock on Bass River in West Dennis.

Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you.

While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.

With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…

The view of the Sagamore Bridge and Cape Cod Canal from Herring Run Recreation Area, across the street from Seafood Shanty.

Bournedale
The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water.

Boats listing near Chatham Fish Pier, down the road from the Chatham Bars Inn.

Chatham
The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home.

Clancy’s Restaurant overlooking Swan River at dusk.

Dennis
Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.

The beach in front of the Beach Bar at the Ocean House.

Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!

Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)

The sign for Brax Landing along Route 28 is hard to miss!

Harwich
Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.

A round of local steamers at the Black Cat Tavern! (Sorry El!)

Hyannis
Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.

Unbeknownst to us, this was our last Liam’s family dinner on Nauset Beach. Threats of erosion cannot be overstated.

Orleans
Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.

The view from a picnic table in the “backyard” of the Canteen in P-Town.

Provincetown
The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.

Apparently I didn’t take any pictures while eating at the Bookstore & Restaurant, but I did park in the lot across from the Bookstore for the Wellfleet Oysterfest (and ran the 5K earlier).

Wellfleet
The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.

The crew at “our table” after a day on the beach. Also Pro Kadima & Kan Jam champs.

The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.

I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?

Hiking, Biking, Running & Walking Trails, Oh My!

Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors.

Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!

Popular Trails (The “Go To’s”)

The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.

Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.

The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.

Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects.

Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.

Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride.

Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.

Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.

The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.

Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected).

“Tucked Away”

Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.

Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!

The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.

Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.

“Peace and Quiet”

A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.

Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.

Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.

Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).

One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.

Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.

I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth; Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.

TT: Nest of Eggs Mystery Solved (West Hartford, CT)

Author’s Note: Social media (Facebook to be exact) reminded me of a very special one-year anniversary: the day we discovered a nest of eggs in our backyard. This edition of “Throwback Thursday” (TT) commemorates an innocent Facebook post on the “Neighbors and Friends Facebook Group Page” that turned the town of West Hartford upside down for 4 days! Join me in a fun little trip down memory lane.

The mysterious nest of eggs in our backyard that turned a large CT town upside down.

“Life is so full of unpredictable beauty and strange surprises.” No truer words could describe the last few weeks in a backyard of West Hartford – and on social media. A few weeks ago, my wife and I came home to find (more later on why that word is important) a mysterious nest of six eggs in our backyard. Yes, we are the “WeHa Nest of Eggs” people. Following a long winter and various nor’easters (or lack thereof), a yard clean-up crew inadvertently cleared away brush that had been concealing the nest of eggs. As you could imagine, we were surprised and perplexed about the who, what, and when.

While my wife and I are admittedly nature novices (we still enjoy reading those tree markings on walks along the reservoir), we were sure that this nest needed to be re-concealed to protect against predators and the elements as mama was nowhere to be found. Though, we also recalled a caution about human scents potentially driving away nesting mothers, so decided to get a second opinion from our neighbors who happened to be outside. They too were puzzled. The next logical step, of course, was to pose the question to a larger audience of neighbors, and the Neighbors and Friends of West Hartford Facebook group came to mind. We took a quick picture of the nest, posted it on the webpage and asked for feedback on egg type and whether or not to re-cover. This is the part where words matter.

Another egg! I am not a monster after all. Phew.

The next morning, I awoke to a text message from a friend and police officer in town that said “your WeHa egg post has more comments on it than the town budget article.” And boy was he right. Within 24 hours, there were 190 comments ranging from guesses on the egg type, to humorous quips about preferring eggs “over easy”, ridiculous gifs of raptor eggs hatching, to serious comments about ensuring the nest was undisturbed (of course our intention). In my haste to post the picture and seek comments, I used the word “un-covered” instead of “found” when describing how the eggs were discovered, and some interpreted that to mean a careless invasion and disruption of the nest. Indeed, words matter and chose them carefully on social media. Fortunately, that afternoon, we came home to another egg (7), which confirmed that the nest was not disturbed and Mama returned. I immediately posted the good news (and picture) in the group thread and found an excited audience.

Wait a minute; what’s that; an EIGHTH egg!?! Dear Haters, this is one healthy nest!

The following morning, it was Groundhogs’ day all over again. Another egg (8), and another picture post to the group thread. An indication that this event was not a total joke was the comment, “I am in love with this story. Please keep us updated.” We now had an obligation to the community. The guesses continued to flow — and thank you Mayor Cantor for posting a comparison picture of similar looking eggs to help solve the puzzle. We also appreciated the multiple suggestions for an “egg cam” (live feed) for the much-anticipated hatchings.

Okay, okay, okay, we get it, nest was not effected by human interference. Who are you?!?!

By the weekend, you guessed it, another egg (9), picture post, and an appreciation of where the whole a dozen of eggs thing comes from. And then it happened. We were sitting on the deck during the warmest part of the day, when all of a sudden a flying object buzzed past us, landing right next to the nest. Mama was home! We remained frozen, not wanting to make a sound, but carefully stood up and locked eyes with Mama… Duck…settling in on top of her eggs. We were so surprised that this first encounter was not photographed, but on a return trip, we had the Canon Rebel T4i ready to go.

Mama! Finally! I had a feeling it was you.

The mystery was solved. Nine 9 eggs. One duck. Hundreds of neighbors engaged. Though the story may not be over as one follower suggested, “We are now all invested in the future ducklings,” so we may be headed to web cam land. I wonder what’s the best brand. Maybe I should ask for a second opinion on that Neighbors and Friends Facebook group!

BONUS SECTION-Part 2: What Happened to the Eggs?

That story is 100% true local (as local gets) news…for 4 days. Looking back, I wish I immediately purchased and set-up a live webcam so the followers could experience what was happening in my backyard at any time- especially, the hatching. Yes, the original article above lacks that information, as it didn’t happen for another 6 days. Here’s what we know; the day before the eggs hatched, my wife saw a green mallard near the nest that morning, but didn’t think much of it. When we arrived home from work, the eggs hatched and there was no sign of the ducklings, mama -or dad(?). We hoped it was a hatching and not an attack by a predator. I am happy to confirm it was the former. A week or so later, I was getting the mail and a neighbor drove by and stopped to chat. In the middle of our conversation – and out of the blue, she remembered, “Oh my God, I never told you, I saw a duckling in your driveway about a week ago!” Somehow that information was never relayed back to us (we’re all busy, right?), but it was an unprompted thought, so I am going with it as “what happened” to the ducklings. It’s a happy memory of a brief, yet crazy time in a little town in Connecticut.