HappyCapeCod

Holiday Strolls & Celebrations on Cape Cod

The view from the top of the ruins of Fort Barrington, Five Islands Village, Antigua.

Author’s Note: A continued Happy Holidays wish to all who are observing one of the 29 holidays that are celebrated by seven of the world’s major religions at this time of year! While it has been a busy 3+ weeks since Thanksgiving, we enjoyed the “happy stress” of hosting Thanksgiving Dinner, partaking in Chatham’s Christmas Stroll, getting off the grid during 9 days to Antigua (a small island in the Lesser Antilles for an overdue vacation) and joining friends on a last-minute ski trip to New Hampshire. A December to remember for sure.

Apre ski at Loon Mountain to kick-off “snow season.”

As I’ve wrote about previously, I love the seasons and is a big reason why my wife and I have settled in the northeast. The greening of spring, followed by the heat of summer, fall foliage and of course, the much anticipated first snowfall of winter. However, a jolt of 80 degrees and sunshine in December as our trip to Antigua provided, did make me long for a reset to summer…until I strapped on my skis, scanned my Ikon pass, and hit Loon Mountain to open up my “snow season.” I instantly remembered why I love this time of year; the rush of carving a turn on a freshly groomed cruiser (too early in the season for powder), running into old friends in the life line and catching up on the chairlift and of course, all the laughs in the lodge during apre ski complete with apps and local craft drafts. Indeed, winter and the holidays are here, and I’m embracing it! And in a few months, that wonderful feeling of sand between your toes and a warm breeze on your face will be back on my mind.

Holiday Strolls and Celebrations on Cape Cod

The holiday picture from the Whit Tileston Bandstand in Chatham. No bunny hop today.

The weekend of December 7-8 marked Chatham’s Annual Christmas by the Sea Stroll celebration, a time when our family reunites in Chatham for this special holiday and community event. While this weekend event is the official stroll, featuring a tree lighting, breakfast with Santa, historic inn and museum tour, complimentary trolley rides complete with carolers through town, the weekend prior featured Santa’s arrival at the Chatham Fish Pier and a few weeks down the road, Chatham’s First Night will have the town celebration the arrival of the New Year. Indeed, there are a lot of celebratory events and happy people in Chatham in December. The special events are family friendly, but what I appreciate most are the simple things like, the thoughtfully decorated path through Kate Gould park leading to the decorated Chatham Bandstand, the candlelit homes along Stage Harbor Road, and of course, the quiet of walking along deserted beaches. The magic of the season is everywhere.

Morning walks on a deserted beach is one of our favorite activities.

Almost every Cape Cod town has their own holiday celebration/stroll, which are spread throughout mid-November through New Year’s Day (alas, Truro didn’t publicize anything this year), making it possible to celebrate the season multiple times in multiple towns. Local merchants, restaurants and town officials, from all communities have done a great job (whether planned or not) of offering a wide range of family-friendly activities, to historical and cultural events to romantic dinners and everything in between. However, a day on Cape Cod, in my case, Chatham, is not complete without a walk along Ridgevale Beach, no matter the weather.

Barker’s of Orleans has a lot of goodies for our four-legged family members.

As expected, we spent much of our time along Main Street, supporting a few of our favorite small businesses, restaurants and gift shops. My strategy for gift giving is to try and buy local as much as possible/practical by taking pictures of what I initially suspect someone will like, but give myself some time to explore other stores and think about the most thoughtful gift of a bunch of options. In our case, anything dog-related is generally a wiener (pun intended as our dachshund Hana can attest). While Chatham’s Paws & Claws are our favorite groomer, Barker’s in Orleans is a new favorite for treats and toys.

My holiday survival strategy also includes ducking into my favorite chowder and beer stop, The Squire, to warm up while others continue on their stroll. This particular year, everyone decided to take a well deserved break and chasing the little ones into the game room.

Regardless have how thirsty or hungry you may be, everyone’s welcome at The Squire!

While the weather never seems to cooperate with a picturesque snowy winter scene, the holiday spirit was in the air (literally, music was playing all around town) and we had a great time catching up, supporting local merchants and dining out.

The annual “Seaview Street Self-ie” (after The Squire stop of course).

If you find yourself on the Cape this month, do find a holiday celebration to enjoy. There is plenty of spirit in the air!

Gift Shops on Cape Cod

Author’s Note: It is not lost on me that life is not always gumdrops and roses. I received a heavy dose reality check last week while reading headlines on the Hartford Courant during lunch. Three aricles on their homepage “featured” a disturbing act of anti-semitism during a performance of Fiddler on the Roof in Baltimore (which we had just seen in Hartford the week prior), a disgusting story of human trafficking in a suburb not more than 30 minutes from home, and a “are-you-kidding me” case of animal cruelty in the town I grew up in. I literally lost my appetite. Not to mention the ongoing wildfires in California, chaos on the southern border and yet another damaging climate report noting that we may be at the point of no return for a permanently warming planet. Such saddness, devastation, tragedy and uncertinly is becoming too common and all the more reason to be thankful for what we have – now and every single day.

Be thankful for what you have — I am thankful for waking up today, my family, friends, health and the ability to hope, laugh and wonder. Don’t frown about what you don’t have. Experiences matter, stuff does not. Help others. Be nice. Smile and laugh as much as you can. Tell people how you really feel now, don’t wait. Get outside more. Turn off push notifications and alerts. Read a newspaper when you have no where to be. Drive with the windows down and your favorite music turned up. Throw your routine upside down every now and then. Okay, enough of the soap box.

As we transition into the (usually) happy holiday season, part of the magic of the season is giving. Such small acts can reap big reactions and rewards. It’s what makes the season special – and those experiences are what counts. Even more important, are the faces you may not see; adults and children in need that may sneak a smile just from a strangers’ generority. Whoever the gift recipient, there are plenty of “ways” to give — i.e., shop — Black Friday sales, Small Business Saturday, Cybermonday discounts, Giving Tuesday, and the hundreds of “coupon-emails” you will no doubt receive from any business you ever shared your email with! Shop local whenever possible, as it has been estimated that 2/3 or $0.67 of each dollar spent locally STAYS in the local community. If that’s not an economic development plan, what is? To fulfill some of your gift giving needs, with a nautical or coastal twist, check out these Cape Cod shops!

Gift Shops on Cape Cod

Barry’s Barn, East Dennis. Painter C. Barry Hills, runs a small botique gift shop just off scenic Route 6A in East Dennis, a few minutes away from the popular greasy spoon, Grumpy’s Restaurant. The two-story, charming half gift shop/ workshop (upstairs) barn behind his home, features a mix of paintings, gifts, home decour and garden accents for coastal living with a touch of vintage. Whenever we have a lazy day along 6A, stopping at “the Barn” to poke around is a requirement. Our “Cape Escape” themed living room has a few pieces from “the Barn.”

Christmas Joy, South Chatham. Their tagline rings true, “where you can

experience the joy of Christmas everyday!” Sure, Christmas shopping in shorts and sandals may seem a little odd in the northeast, but there are so many creative works and fun little games, puzzles, etc, that it’s hard not to get lost in this seasonal escape. The store is also the anchor of the South Chatham village and business community, surrounded by two restaurants, hardware store and branch library.

Hattie D’s, Harwichport. Hattie D’s was a new discovery this year during an autumn “slow ride” down Route 28 to the Bourne Bridge. The small gift shop and art store features a mix of antique decorative pieces, home furnishings, lighting as well as a robust “create-your-own” art supply section. What distinguishes Hattie D’s from other stores is their decorative art classes, led by three different artists, with a cap of 10 people per session. We left the store with a discounted Halloween decoration and felt satisfied with the surprise stop.

Just Picked, Yarmouthport. Located at a dangerous intersection (blind curve) along Route 6A and Willow Street, Just Picked features three “departments,” coastal clothing, gifts and home furnishings, played out in two buildings. Perhaps most important, Just Picked carries many of the same items that other stores price higher (notably accent pillows, fun signs, and decorattive ornaments). The store is clean, decorated for the season, and a fun game or humorous gadget seems to always be displayed at the register. My favorite game is their Cape Cod trivia cards. For a small shop, they also have an online store.

Monomoy Salvage, Chatham. If owner Carol Sherman did not set up some of her nautical antique items outside the barn-size gift shop, you may not see a reason to stop. The white one room barn, with faded front signage, isn’t much to look at, but don’t let that fool you. The broken sea shell driveway is a red carpet to some pretty cool finds. A mix of “salvaged” nautical instruments, signs, antique paintings and coastal home furnishings are the core contents. On the other hand, what makes the place unique is there collection of whales, wine crates, mermaids, baseball memorbilia and oars. Where else have you those items mentioned in the same sentence!

Shor, Provincetown. The up-scale home furnishings store is located in the heart of Commerical Street, and invites you to see Herbert and Kevin at work with interior design projects. It’s not a large store – more of a mini showroom – but they have items you may have not seen before. (A circular mirror surrounded by two dozen white oars was particulary impressive.) The store definitely has a “be careful, don’t touch that” feel to it, but the doors are open.

Tale of the Cod

, Chatham. Located at the “tail end” of downtown, Tale of the Cod is one of my favorite stores, if not just for the perfect name. The transformed sea captains home is a series of displays within just three rooms, but it feels much larger with alcoves and the long and narrow home furnishings area. The inspiration for our (7-foot) seashell tree and many of the first ornaments came from their displays. Fast forward to present day, their Scout line is

another perfect fit for our furry child!

There are many other local stores: surf shops, pet stores, clothing stores and other specialty goods stores, all of which are worth mentioning, so stay tuned for more shopping tips!

As a teaser, my go-top surf shop is Pump House in Orleans; pet shop is Barkers, Orleans; gear rental is Chatham Kayak Company; hot food to go is Chatham Fish and Lobster, sandwich shop is Corner Store, coffee shop is Chatham Perk, brewery is Devil’s Purse in Dennis, and clothing store is Black Eel Outfitters in Dennis. Breakfast and lunch spots leaving the Cape are Marshland and Beth’s Bakery, Sandwich, respectively.

Del Mar Bar & Bistro – From Memorable To Magical

Author’s Note: I (we) love to cook…when time is not an issue. Too often, time is an issue. This unfortunate reality – which found us eating ‘fast fresh’ or ordering take-out much of the time- pushed my wife and I to dedicate the 6:45-8:00pm window for weekday homemade dinners – prep, meal, clean-up. We are now experimenting with meal delivery options such as Sun Basket, Plated, and Hello Fresh for new ideas, foods and recipes. We also pride ourselves on hosting a big family/friends dinner every other Sunday. Cooking/meal preparation becomes an event for the senses — listening to dinner music (courtesy of Pandora, Alexa or Jeff’s Playlists), using the ‘every day’ (“fine”) china in the dining room, sipping on a favorite wine or cocktail, watching the steam rise from the main course fresh out of the oven, and of course, taking part in a lively conversation devoid of the distractions of the day.

One of my go-to comfort foods, a burger and fries, at the Coleman Brook Tavern in Jackson Gore, Okemo Mountain, Vermont. My buddy Bryan and I completed a marathon of skiing that day (26.2 miles of skiing!)

When going out to dinner, I hope for a similar experience of the senses, with varying degrees of success. I approach menus with an eye toward ordering something I would not attempt to make at home. Comfort food like fried chicken and waffles, a juicy burger or pasta bolognese, are all solid back-up plans that rarely (pun intended) disappoint. In the hot and busy summer months, I lean toward Fido friendly patios and in the slow, cold and dark winter, prefer cozy taverns brimming with the chatter of holiday excitement and anticipation of the first snow fall.

The restaurant scene on Cape Cod seems to get better each year, with almost every culinary option available year-round. One of these top restaurants, Del Mar Bar & Bistro, checks all the boxes of ‘an experience of the senses’ and takes dining out from memorable to magical.

The wait is worth it. But first a little background. It pains me to admit this, but for years, I drove by the trendy dinner-only restaurant, comically making a nightclub “beats” sound. That was my assumption of this new restaurant at the time. For five decades, a classic Friendly’s Restaurant and Ice Cream resided there and I have the fondest summer memory of eating my first Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup Sundae at this location. I even recall the tall, glass “tulip” sundae dish, whipped cream piled high, with a cherry on top. Ahh, the good old days. For too long, a part of me resented that this past memory could only be replicated in the frozen section of Stop N Shop grocery stores. Following the closure of Friendly’s, a trendy restaurant, Roobar, that I never went to, re-designed the building and gained a following of new customers, but ultimately didn’t last long. Enter Del Mar Bar & Bistro.

A playful game of “Guess Who’s at Del Mar?”

My wife pleaded with me to try it after reading recent reviews and constantly witnessing a packed parking lot. Despite being loyal to a certain Tuscan Roadhouse nearby as well as an Old Inn in the mid-Cape, I gave-in — and so happy I did! A present connection to the restaurant and location is that during a second visit, I bumped into a colleague and Connecticut State Representative James Albis. It turns out his (twin) cousins are sous chefs in the kitchen. We had a great laugh about all the connections to the current restaurant, town and location. To keep things interesting, nowadays each time one of us dines at Del Mar, we send the other a picture of the menu or our entree. A text message war never fails to entertain.

The dimly lit restaurant is half kitchen, half seating with a bustling bar. An enclosed heated patio section off the bar area (where the “to go”/ice cream window was located) adds desperately needed seating. The main dining room has about 15 tables, with the bar accommodating a dozen people comfortably. There is also live music on Tuesdays through Thursdays. I’ve driven by the restaurant recently and seen a line forming outside prior to the 5:00pm opening for folks likely hoping to grab a seat at the first come, first serve bar.

The braised short rib blackboard special.

Our first experience can be described as, “it’s better to be lucky than good,” as we happened to get two seats next to each other at the bar, having to only wait 10 minutes as the other three couples ahead of us on the wait list lost a battle with their patience. Win! The hustling bartender made one of the best Manhattan’s I’ve ever tasted, and the portion was impressive. The menu features fresh and local seafood, chops, imaginative appetizers, wood fired thin crust pizzas and hard to resist desserts. I ordered the Lobster Tostada appetizer, followed by the grilled salmon over truffle mashed potatoes and sauteed vegetables. Ellen ordered the braised short-rib over a rissoto, with a classic Caesar salad to start. The presentation, temperature and taste of each part of the meal was exquisite. We passed on dessert due to the limited availability of “Raz-Oreo” ice cream at the nearby Sundae School Ice Cream.

The glazed pan roasted Faroe Island salmon.

If you are lucky enough to get a table, the wait staff is attentive, check-in after each course was served, including drinks, to make sure the food and drink have met your expectations. The atmosphere, the service and the food are impossible to beat. Del Mar Bar & Bistro is simply one of the best.

Cape Cod Doxie Day

Hana finding a comfortable spot, on Ellen’s face and shoulders!

Author’s Note: For almost a year now, our lives have been enriched with the addition of our miniature, short-haired, black and tan dachshund – doxie, hotdog, weiner-dog, etc – Hanalei (Hana for short). Yes, the same “Hanalei” from the song, “Puff the Magic Dragon,” but more accurately, inspired after a trip to the Hawaiian Islands (Oahu, Maui, Lanai and Kauai). “Hanalei” literally means “Crescent Bay” in Hawaiian and doxie’s form a crescent when curled up. We also had a magical experience on the road to – and staying in Hana, so the name has multi-meanings and reminds us of that great trip!

Hana falls asleep immediately on car rides on the highway. However, as soon as we exit and the car slows down, she gets excited!

Hana is the definition of love bug, curious and mischievous as the breed is known to be, as well as an alert system. If a door squeaks, a car pulls into the driveway, or a potato chips drops on the floor, she leaps over to inspect the scene. Since her earliest puppy days, we’ve made a point to socialize her with other dogs. We also regularly attend dog-friendly outdoor events (farmer’s markets, Octoberfests, craft fairs, etc) to include her as much as possible in our lives as well as socialize her with dogs and people. I suppose dog-friendly activities are just what you do when you have a dog, but it’s become a requirement on the weekends, especially in the face of daylight savings time and colder, darker days ahead.

The Ruff and Tumble Gang at a puppy play date.

Following the first “shy dog play hour” at a local Dog Groomer & Boarding House, we were fortunate to find a group of fellow “fir baby” owners who get together outside of that morning’s scheduled social hour. The group refers to itself as, “The Ruff & Tumble Gang,” a literal illustration of what happens when our dogs get together. It has been a delight to get to know our neighbors – now friends – as well as hear about other events and activities for dogs not widely publicized. As an example, a local dog store, “Dogology,” hosted a Halloween-type backyard event with dog costume contest, grooming, food and beer vendors and of course, dog products. Another event at a historical museum hosted “A Pawesome Day,” complete with Dog Parade, professional portraits, silent auction, complimentary entry to the Hill-Stead Museum, agility course and food and beer vendors. Our favorite fall event, “Raise a Paw Against Leukemia,” was a mix of craft fair, dog obstacle course and food vendors in Simsbury Meadows. Dog friendly events are the new normal, but Cape Cod Doxie Day takes it to a new level!

Hana doesn’t believe in personal boundaries.

The energy, affection and adorableness of one dog – in this case our dachshund – can fill a room. (Authors note: As I write this, Hana is literally climbing on my face and licking me. As I try to resist, she rests her chin on my nose.) Now imagine being on the town green in Barnstable surrounded by about 50 dachshunds on a beautfiul autumn afternoon. That was the scene at the 2018 Cape Cod Doxie Day, an annual get together of fellow Doxie’s featuring events like the Wiener Waddle and Waggin Parade, costume and tricks contest, photos with the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile, silent auction and raffle, as well as the can’t-miss Doxie Dash! If you like dogs, this event is worth a stop.

Hana in her shark costume courtesy of Hot Diggity Dog Wash & Boutique in Dennis, MA.

Hana participated in most of the activities, but didn’t quite make it out of the starting gate (box) for the Doxie Dash. We will have to work on that with her for future races. She did get an honorable mention in the costume parade, wearing a custom crafted (by Ellen), “Doxie Light” felt “cape” for the Cape (get it?). The shape of the cape was a lighthouse, though as I write this, we could have played up the subtle reference for a harvest lager, despite the contest and event being located on Cape Cod. Our other option was the K9 shark costume, but Hana was not a fan of the slim fit.

Ellen and Hana pose in our new doxie-engraved Adirondack chairs! They currently reside in our living room because they are almost too nice to be left outside.

The biggest competition of the day, however, was not on the playing field, but at the silent auction. The grand prize were custom crafted Adirondack chairs, complete with a golden dachshund carved in the middle. We have been wanting to get a set of Adirondack chairs our home for years, but hadn’t found the right pair…yet.

In the final minutes of the silent auction, Ellen increased her pledge one last time, confident she would not be outbid. But then it happened, out of the corner of her eye, someone came out of nowhere and added another bid! However, the volunteer running the silent auction had not yet started to close bids, so Ellen was able to swoop-in just before all bids closed. We won – the SET of chairs!

While some would say the adults were the big “wieners” (winners) of the day, Hana also had a good time. She will be the “underdog” to watch at next year’s Doxie Dash!

Ellen Shaw contributed to this post.

Brax Landing’s Waterfront Dining

Author’s Note: I continue to be amazed by how much you can do on Cape Cod in autumn. The shoulder season is packed full of events, from dog friendly days, festivals, craft fairs, road races, as well as clearance sales at many stores. Most outdoor activities, such as whale watches, mini golf (and large golf), kayaking, biking, fishing charters, etc., are still open and not nearly as busy. That last point paving the way for “restaurant hopping,” which in peak summer season, would require the waiting game. Not in autumn.

Waterfront dining is at a premium on Cape Cod. While it may be easy to find waterfront dining options thanks to articles like this and Apps like Yelp, it will likely take a good chunk of time to be seated. Nothing could be more true of Brax Landing, located prominently along Route 28 overlooking Saquatucket Harbor, in Harwichport. For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been a go-to restaurant to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view on the deck. You just may need to ignore the seemingly hundreds of cars in the parking lot and parked on the grass.

Prior to 1976, the building then known as the Bourne House, provided housing for staff of former and legendary Thompson’s Clam Bar, located further down Route 28, off Snow Inn Road, overlooking another waterfront, Wychmere Harbor. Brax Landing has been an institution on the Lower Cape’s restaurant scene ever since — not too mention a fixture of the Shaw Family’s rotation for dining out.

Everyone has a waterfront view at Brax Landing.

The restaurant’s exterior weathered wood panelling just oozes Cape Cod, with a dark wood interior channeling a well traveled tavern consisting of four rooms. The first room being the largest and brightest, the dining room with large rectangle windows overlooking the patio and harbor. Take a few steps down, and the tables next to the windows are on a lower level so the view for everyone in the dining room is unobstructed. The second room is the bar, with about 12 stools (once again, overlooking the harbor — think that’s a theme), 4 table tops and an open area near the fireplace for folks to mill about. The third room is an extension of the bar with about six table tops for open seating.

The view from the cocktail deck is one of the best on the Lower Cape, 2012.

Saving the best for last is the outdoor patio, with over 20 tables, and again, the deck area designed with an upper and lower level with waterfront views. You can taste the salt air. Recently, a firepit was added surrounded by Adirondack chairs so patrons can enjoy a drink while waiting for a table or enjoy a nightcap in the crisp evening air.

The famed Lobster Roll and pint to pair.

Brax Landing’s blackboard menu features specials such as prime rib, baked stuffed lobster, and catch of the day, appearing on your left as you walk down the dark hallway to the hostess. It sets a tone that the restaurant has a range of menu options and seeks to please all. The regular menu is casual, with a mix of hearty soups, big salads, tavern fare and a short list of entrees. For the last 10 years or so, the Lobster Roll has been a hard selection to pass up. While the $22.99 “market price” might turn some off, the 50-50 claw to tail meat ratio is worth it. The hard roll is comically large, nestled next to two handfuls of fries, cup of cole slaw and a dill pickle. Add a summer ale – or in this season – a harvest ale – and you will leave feeling full and happy. We also learned they have gluten-free bread to swap in for hard rolls, which is a nice touch and reassuring that they accommodate people with food allergies.

The wait staff hustles, the bartender banter is hilarious -if not contagious should you have the pleasure of nabbing a seat at the bar. Brax Landing’s character, breathtaking view and hearty fare keeps locals, seasonal residents and visitors coming back. A full parking lot and 45+ minute wait should not stop you from landing at Brax!