Sharknado made a brief landing in the bushes of the Chatham Village Cafe & Bakery? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Cape Cod towns are often described as charming communities. It is no wonder. Weather-worn shingle cottages, vast coastal landscapes, massive sand dunes, colorful yard plantings, iconic lighthouses, and preserved woodlands, to name a few. Of course, there are the decades-old traditions – parades, bandstand concerts, clambakes, and baseball games. And don’t forget, the outdoor showers, clothes lines, whale watches, white directional signs, beach bonfires and plenty of places where left turns are frowned upon.
Below are a few charming photos of recent Cape Cod days.
Short Drive Home from the Beach
The vehicle is definitely in motion. Notice both hands are on the beach gear, not the vehicle interior. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Usually, this kind of creative “passengering” takes place in the bed of pick-up trucks, but the SUV has gotten in on the fun.
Parking Space Lines are Optional
As a Chatham A’s fan, this disrespect of a parking space is a clear example of the evil associated with the Orleans Firebirds. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Perhaps this driver was a fan of Pirates of the Caribbean. To quote Captain Barbossa, “the (pirate) code [in this case, parking lines] is more what you’d call guidelines than actual rules.”
Charming and Quaint
Chatharbor Pottery on Cockle Cove Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
One of the more charming and quaint cottages on the Lower Cape, Chatharbor Pottery on Cockle Cove Road is a must-stop when visiting in Chatham.
A Solid Beach Perimeter, Sans COVID Spacing
A beautiful morning at Ridgevale Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Personal space on the beach is always at a premium on summer weekends. Best to arrive early and take note of the high-water mark if you want ample space all day.
Local Art & Inspiration
The unexpected, little joys of an afternoon walk down Chatharbor Lane. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The growing presence of dedicated artist cottages in public spaces is a wonderful trend, yet neighbors are sharing their creativity too!
What charming Cape Cod days have you had recently?
Author’s Note: While walking along a browning salt marsh on a crisp autumn afternoon, I got hungry. And a little thirsty. Suddenly, I was craving a large, warm and steamy bowl of clam chowder from the Chatham Squire. Alas, the restaurant was many miles away. As my mind wandered for other hearty options, oddly, the signature oyster shooter at the Beachcomber came into focus. Perhaps the cracked shells along the shoreline inspired the thought. Sadly, the Comber has been long closed for the season. The disgusting sounding seafood shot would have to wait until 2022. What to do?
Unable to scratch that Squire-Comber itch, my mind remained fixated not on food, not on drink, but the long-standing question – which bar-restaurant was better? Squire or Beachcomber? I’m surely not the only one who has fallen into this rabbit hole of tasty wonder, but it was time to put pen to paper and settle the score.
Two Iconic Cape Cod Bar-Restaurants
The Chatham Squire during Fourth of July, 2019. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Chatham Squire
Since 1968, the Chatham Squire is now without question, the town of Chatham’s most iconic restaurant. Located in the middle of downtown Main Street and known for its two distinctive sections—the family friendly restaurant on the west side and a rowdy tavern on the east – the Squire is a bustling operation and mixing pot of locals, tourists, college students and families.
The original owners, the late Richard Costello and George Payne, operated the business for 53 years. In 2019, Costello and Payne sold the business to Todd Hearle, whose parents owned and operated an art gallery that bared its name across the street. While much of the operation remains the same, a few notable changes (again, after 50 years!) are listed below. The Squire is open from 11:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. daily (kitchen closes at 9), and sports a 100-person staff.
Awards: Boston Magazine: Best Bar (2007); Cape Cod Life: Best Chowder (Silver); Cape Cod Times Reader Poll: Best Karaoke Venue.
Wondering about the name? “A squire is someone who attends to or takes care of, and that’s what we’ve been doing for 50 years,” said General Manager Richard Sullivan, when interviewed by the Cape Cod Chronicle upon the 50th anniversary of the restaurant.
The Wellfleet Beachcomber in the offseason, fall 2020. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Wellfleet Beachcomber (also known as the Comber or ‘Comah)
Since 1953, The Beachcomber features panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean atop the bluff overlooking Cahoon Hollow Beach. But the building itself – an old life saving station – is much older. Built in 1897, the Wellfleet Beachcomber was one of the nine Life Saving Service stations built on the Outer Cape (Race Point, Highlands, Peaked Hill Bars, Pamet, Cahoon’s Hollow, Nauset, Orleans, Chatham, and Monomoy Point). Life Saving Stations originated in 1872 as part of the U.S. Department of Treasury’s Life Saving Service, which pre-dated the U.S. Coast Guard.
As the story goes, in 1953 Russell Gallagher, who had summered at Cahoon Hollow Beach as a child, bought the old station and converted it into a small inn, and dubbed it the Beachcomber. One of the rooms inside was finished with driftwood and nautical bric a brac, that was “combed” off the beach.
About 10 years later (1961), President John F. Kennedy created the Cape Cod National Seashore which would preserve in perpetuity over 43,500 acres of ponds, woods and beachfront along the Atlantic–facing Eastern side of Cape Cod in the towns of Provincetown, Truro, Wellfleet, Eastham, Orleans, and Chatham. By virtue of a “Grandfather” clause, the Beachcomber was/is allowed to remain within the National Seashore as a privately held commercial property (one of only eleven at that time).
Awards: Boston Magazine: “Best Bar on the Cape & Islands”; Cape Cod Life Readers Poll: “Best Raw Bar, Best Outdoor Dining, Best Specialty Cocktail and Best Entertainment”; Esquire: “Best Bars in America”; Travel Channel’s #10 pick on the “Twenty-One Sexiest Beach Bars in the World” list; and Yankee Magazine: “One of the Best Seaside Dining Spots in New England.”
Wondering about the assertion of being “Cape Cod’s only oceanfront restaurant and club? Even though there are several restaurants, and other businesses on the water (either Nantucket Sound, or Cape Cod Bay), the Beachcomber is the only oceanfront (Atlantic side) restaurant on Cape Cod.
Honorable Mentions
There are many popular bar-restaurant-taverns not named Beachcomber or Squire on Cape Cod. I’ve been to many of them. But the Comber and Squire stand out. First, their followings are second to none. Second, their logos can be seen on t-shirts and bumper stickers across the country. Third, I’ve had some truly wild days and nights at both places. A few nights could probably qualify as episodes for a comedy mini series. Need more proof? Brace yourselves for the debate below.
Iconic Categories
Charm
Beachcomber: The outside bar is regularly packed three people deep. The floor is sandy. The vibe is hazy. Shoes may be optional.
Squire: The collection of roughly 500 license plates hanging from the rafters and walls pairs well with sawdust and sweat on the floor. There are even arcade games near the back bar.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 1-0.
Entertainment
Beachcomber: It’s hard to beat live music at a largely outdoor restaurant, but…
Squire: …offers oodles of entertainment. Take your pick; live music, trivia nights, karaoke, or watching in amusement as already tipsy wedding partygoers hang on for last call. Forget the television, there is always something happening “live” at the Squire. The tavern’s “upstairs” table tops are a great viewing perch for the mayhem.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 2-0.
Food & Drink
Beachcomber: Oyster Shooters. Need anything more be said? The raw bar, stationed outside, is “shucked to order,” which is both fun to watch and obviously a treat to eat.
Squire: We’ve covered the clam chowder. It is excellent. Last year, new chef, Christian Asencio’s, added menu items such as the Angry Lobster, a spicy crustacean pasta dish; pan-seared scallops with a summer succotash of house-roasted jalapenos, roasted corn, edamame, broccoli and tomatoes; truffle fries; an ahi tuna sandwich on brioche; and more. Upgrade?
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire leads 2-1.
“Funkness”
While often seen cruising along Ocean View Drive, The Funk Bus group transportation specifically notes stops at “the Wellfleet Beachcomber, the Chatham Squire,…” on its website. Indeed, we are in iconic territory.
Winner: Tie.
Squire still leads 2-1.
Hours
Beachcomber: Open seasonally, daily, from mid-May to Labor Day. Though, last year, the restaurant reopened through Oct. 3 — only the second post-season reopening.
Squire: The Squire is open year-around, like 364.5 days year-round. I recall they’ve opened Christmas Day afternoon more than occasionally.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 3-1.
History
Beachcomber: A former life saving station, the original building itself is over 100 years old (the service/building pre-dates the U.S. Coast Guard) and business is nearing its 70th anniversary serving customers.
Squire: The 50th Anniversary, celebrated in 2019, featured a special weekend exhibit at the Chatham Historical Society’s Atwood House and Museum.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire leads 3-2.
Location
Beachcomber: (Truly) the only oceanfront – Atlantic side – restaurant on Cape Cod.
Squire: Located in the center of downtown Chatham and walking distance to popular attractions Chatham Lighthouse, Chatham Fish Pier, Chatham Bars Inn, and Veteran’s Field, home of the Chatham A’s of the Cape Cod Baseball League); stumbling distance to the Chatham Bandstand in Kate Gould Park.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire-Beachcomber tied 3-3.
Price
Beachcomber: If you park in their parking lot to access Cahoon Hollow Beach, the $30 parking ticket also acts as a restaurant voucher (food, raw bar, merchandise). Of course, you are going to use it! The “Ultimate Season Pass” is also available for frequent patrons including seasonal parking, discounts at the Shop and other perks.
Squire: Before the ownership switch/COVID, a winter dining club/card was offered. Dine five times, the sixth meal was free.
Winner: Beachcomber
Beachcomber leads 4-3.
Pop Culture
Beachcomber: No pop culture references known.
The Squire: In the movie “Summer Catch,” the players hang out at a bar called “The Oasis,” an obvious play of the Chatham Squire.
Winner: Squire
Beachcomber-Squire tied 4-4.
Stores
Beachcomber: The Beachcomber Store is located in the South Wellfleet Plaza off Route 6, between LeCount Hollow Road and the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
Squire: The Squire Shop is located in downtown Chatham, directly across the street from the restaurant.
Winner: Tie. Can we pause for a moment to consider both restaurants have their own stand-alone storefronts to sell logo merchandise. That’s iconic.
Beachcomber-Squire tied 4-4.
Supports the Community
Beachcomber: known for supporting two major fundraising events each year on premises:
Clam Jam, a fundraiser for the Pan Mass Challenge (PMC) that benefits Dan-Farber Cancer Institute.
Live for Lou (Oct 2, 2021), a fundraiser that supports an advised fund of the Cape Cod Foundation established in memory of the LeBarts’ son Louie who from died an opioid overdose in 2014.
Squire:
Donates $50 gift certificates as raffle prizes during each Chatham A’s home game (22 games each season)
Sponsors community events such as First Night, Spring and Fall Harbor Runs; enters a float in the Fourth of July Parade
Founded the Pals For Life Foundation, to help Lower Cape residents from the restaurant and hospitality industries who may need assistance due to injuries that keep them out of work.
No food waste here. As the story goes, Costello didn’t like seeing uneaten food go to waste, so he arranged to have all food waste donated to an area farmer with pigs. ‘Pig buckets’ were located at the dishwasher station and employees were asked to scrap the plates into these buckets to be served to the pigs the next day.
Winner: Squire
Squire leads 5-4.
Special Note/Fun Fact
Beachcomber:
Cottages. On site are two cottages (Sandbar and ComahCabana) for rent. The identical 20’x 25′ cottages both offer about 1,000 sq. ft. of living space; have layouts offering 2 bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths, a 2nd floor kitchen/living/dining area and, best of all, large decks facing the Comber and the Atlantic Ocean.
Webcams and Superforecasts. The website homepage features a detailed Wellfleet weather dashboard, including wave direction, height and period for the surfer and SUPer alike.
Squire: Started a Mobile Raw Bar (food truck) available for private events. The 1960s FAN (Franklin A. Newcomer) camper was retrofitted with cedar-shake siding and license plates to take the charm of downtown Chatham to a party near you.
Winner: Beachcomber
Squire-Beachcomber tied 5-5.
Final Score
A tie! Come on, man! Look, both the Beachcomber and Squire have strong cases for Most Iconic Bar-Restaurant on Cape Cod.
But to force separation in the top rankings, one indisputable fact cannot be overstated. Remember the whole view? The ocean. The sun. The sand. The remoteness. The outdoors. The Beachcomber experience illustrates why the population on Cape Cod quadruples over the summer. Outside!
That said…my tummy is still craving that large, steamy bowl of clam chowder from the Squire. Sorry folks, but you can’t eat the Beachcomber’s view!
Which do you think is most iconic, and why, the Beachcomber or Squire?
I hope you are enjoying fall on Cape Cod, the best season; sparse crowds, outdoor festivals, crisp air, and ocean/pond temperature just warm enough for a quick dip. Mix-in those fall flavors and smiles all around! Speaking of flavors and smiles…
…Last week at Cape Cod Doxie Day, I was the big winner of an Octoberfest raffle prize package – featuring, you guessed it, a mix of Octoberfest-style beers. Like, a lot of beers – too many beers – 48 to be exact (no joke, four 12-packs in addition to pint glasses, bottle opener, t-shirt, etc.). Talk about kick-starting ‘Fest season!
The family and I are now regularly hopping around festivals, farms and bakeries, and my self-control is waning with all the tempting food and drink choices. My kitchen (and refrigerator) is now home to bags of freshly picked native apples, boxes of “famous” apple cider donuts, and pumpkins and gourds galore. There are also pies, baguettes and cold apple cider. Last night, I even caught wind of a famous apple fritter on the Vineyard. Apple addiction, admitted.
Apple Picking
Crow Farm, Sandwich
Crow Farm is a 50-acre family farm located outside of historic downtown Sandwich. While they are no longer operating the farm stand, they have expanded their pick-your-own-apples program. Check out their Facebook page for the latest pick-your-own dates and times. The details: Macoun, Empire, Jonagolds, Cortland and Cameo ($25 per bag), pumpkin picking ($0.75 per pound) and a corn maze ($5 per person).
Cape Abilities Farm is one of three innovative social enterprises established by Cape Abilities—a nonprofit providing jobs, homes, transportation, social and therapeutic services for people with disabilities across Cape Cod. “Fall at the Farm,” includes pumpkins, gourds, mums, straw decorations, but for this purpose…apple butter, local apples, and organic apples are also available in the farm store.
Hart Farm Nursery and Gardens, Dennis Port
The Farm Stand at Hart Farm, open daily (including Sundays), not only offers produce standards, but also fresh apple cider and native apples. If you are a first-timer, check out their “famous” face-painted decorative pumpkins. Fun!
Hand painted pumpkins at Hart Farm. Photo credit: Hart Farm.
Coonamessett Farm, East Falmouth
Coonamessett Farm a 20-acre working farm, agricultural research center and general store located in Falmouth. The store is open from 9 am to 5 pm through fall, and carries freshly grown seasonal produce, native plants, homemade pies, sandwiches, and snacks. Purchase pick-your-own day pass and roam the fields for produce galore! (Alas, no apples.) The farm also holds seasonal activities, including pumpkin decorating for kids. For members, a Jamaican Buffett is offered Wednesdays and they’ve partnered with Buffalo Jump Cafe to offer farm to table breakfast, lunch and reservations-only dinner on the farm.
Farmer’s Markets
All four regions of Cape Cod are well stocked with farmer’s markets. While fresh, often locally grown produce is the main attraction, you never know what seasonal or surprise product may be available. Case and point, take the Falmouth Farmer’s Market, “the market features just-picked produce, local fish, artisanal cheeses, breads, handmade pasta, and such freshly baked treats as apple cider donuts.” The best part, the is a farmer’s market every day (in season), somewhere, on Cape Cod!
Now that’s a catchy ad! Photo credit: Jack and the Beanstalk.
Apple Cider Donuts
Jack in the Beanstalk, Falmouth
It is rare to find a Cape Cod bakery menu have this menu choice: “our famous Apple Cider donuts.” But exist it does, on the Upper Cape. Located next to Falmouth High School, Jack in the Beanstalk is a locally-owned produce and gourmet food store. They started making apple cider donuts in 2016 to much success and fanfare.
Anything but your typical donut shop. From their website, “If you happen upon our back door during the daytime, you wouldn’t think much of it. Just a random, non-descript purple door in the parking lot of a supermarket. However, once the sun sets, the back door swings open. With it, the sweet smells of sugary summer pour out.”
Another hot take: “Everyone from The New York Times to Condé Nast Traveler has waxed poetic about these [Back Door Donuts] sweet treats, and for excellent reason: Fresh, cheap, and available between 7 p.m. and 12:58 a.m. in-season from the rear door of Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery, these doughnuts might just be the island’s worst-kept secret (as demonstrated by the nightly long lines). Raised and cake varieties are on offer, and favorite flavors include maple-bacon and butternut crunch.”
Top of the menu. Photo credit: Back Door Bakery.
You know what other item is on their menu, “Famous Apple Fritters.” I too, am pacing with anticipation. Just don’t “fall” (seasonal pun) overboard on the ferry ride!
What is your favorite apple product/place on Cape Cod?
Last spring, when the weather was warming and excitement for summer was brewing, I read an article by Eric Williams, Cape Cod Times, (and one of my favorite Cape media personality) arguing that June is the best month on Cape Cod. Yes, June is one of the best, but I put it in second place. For me, it’s all about September.
Don’t get me wrong, our reasons are nearly identical. The months of June and September:
Avoid the enormous crowds of July and August,
The weather is still warm for outdoor living,
Daylight still lasts until after 7:00 pm and
You don’t have to pay to park at town beaches.
But after “pond-ering” (a nod to Eric Williams kettle pond adventures) a little deeper, I am convinced that September reigns supreme. Whether not you agree, I hope you’ll join me on my quest to K.S.A…keep summer alive!
(1) Seasonal Festivals. Sure, the classic summer outdoor experiences (town band stand concerts, Cape League baseball games and parades) are done for the season, but that just means space is open for fall festivals. Festival events occur every weekend, some run for multiple days and happily continue into the winter. Like, this past weekend was the 13th Annual Doxie Day! How can you beat that?!?
The 13th Annual Cape Cod Doxie Day was held in Barnstable on September 25, 2021. My lovely wife won the Octoberfest raffle prize. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Enough Daylight. No question, June daylight pushes the 9:00 pm envelope and that is fantastic. But September daylight still lasts beyond 7:00 pm, just enough time for 9 holes of after-work golf.
“Lobster-Doxie,” during the costume parade at Cape Cod Doxie Day. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
No Crowds. Visiting families with school-aged children, college students and tourists have all returned home. Unless you are going to Mac’s Seafood on a Friday night, you won’t have to worry about crowds or parking this time of year. While staffing shortages certainly pose(d) challenges- and showed the ugly side of inpatient visitors, sadly – businesses (say, restaurants) are well in rhythm by the end of the season.
Who said you can’t swim in September (26) at Cockle Cove Beach, Chatham? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Water Still Warm. The ocean, bay and ponds are still warm, though cooler air will greet you upon your water exit. Need proof? My home base – Ridgevale Beach – and the iconic Snack Bar operates food and sailboat rentals through mid-October.
The Ridgevale Beach, Chatham, salt marsh with Buck’s Creek Bridge in the distance. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Stickerless Beaches – with dogs! Now is the time to visit any beach you ever heard about. All town beaches stop checking for parking passes on Labor Day, and most allow dogs back on the beach in September.
The former wireless transmission site, Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw (May 16, 2021)
Author’s Note: Picture this: a bright blue sky, the smell of salty air and fallen pine needles, the sounds of chirping birds, breaking waves and rumbling motor boats. Among a bustling fishing village and northeast vacation destination is both the literal foundation and historical sites that much of modern communication was built upon – even GPS tracking FKTs!
The location is Chatham, Massachusetts, an Atlantic Ocean facing Cape Cod town. The historical site is the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center, celebrating the final of three consecutive centennials commemorating the first trans-Atlantic and wireless maritime communication (a notable example is the Titanic’s distress signal). The man was radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi, who won the Nobel Prize in physics in 1909 for his work in wireless telegraphy.
All smiles as I attempt to create a historic route and set a fastest known time! Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Chatham Marconi Wireless Route
I call this route the “Chatham Marconi Wireless Route,” ideal for American history lovers, tech buffs and beach bums alike! The inspiration for the route was the “Antenna Trail Challenge,” a first-ever virtual event encouraging people to visit the remaining historic sites.
The route is a historic, coast to coast sprint, featuring a combination of surfaces: dirt trail, road, paved recreation path, and sandy beach trail. The route follows modern day roads and trails that connect the original marine radio wireless transmitting stations in North and South Chatham.
I was sure to share the route with the Race Director, so who knows, perhaps this route will be the future 5K route of Antenna Challenges!
Forest Beach Conservation Area. From the overlook, you can see former concrete pilings and poles, now historic markers. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Start – Chatham Marconi Maritime Museum, North Chatham
The route begins on the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center grounds, at the top of the hill of the outdoor Antenna Field Trail at the bench and informational sign. The trail descends quickly into the parking lot that leads to Orleans Road with the sparkling emerald blue waters of Ryders Cove in view.
Orleans Road to Old Comers Road
Turn right out of the parking lot onto Orleans Road, passing two restored buildings on the Center grounds. Turn right onto Old Comers Road. The term “old comers” is an old Cape Cod term for families that came over on the Mayflower. Another historical site along this route, is a smallpox cemetery at the 1.5 mile mark, part of “The Triangle” conservation area.
The sandy path begins at the Forest Beach parking lot and ends at Mill Creek. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Sam Ryder Road to West Pond Road (to Old Colony Rail Trail)
Turn left onto Sam Ryder Road. Sam Ryder was part of the fishing family of which Ryders Cove bear his last name. Turn left onto West Pond Road and immediately bear right onto the Old Colony Rail Trail Volunteer Park Extension.
Turn right onto Old Colony Rail Trail. Another historic site, the Old Colony Rail Trail is a paved pathway that runs the length of the former Chatham railway, eventually intersecting with the iconic Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich.
A beautiful summer day at Forest Beach, South Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Morton Road to Forest Beach Road
Turn left onto Morton Road. At the intersection with Route 28, continue straight onto Forest Beach Road. Use the crosswalk.
Turn left onto Bay View Road. Keep right up the small hill, which is the Forest Beach Conservation Area. At the top of the hill is an overlook of the salt marsh that was the location of the former wireless transmission site. A handful of poles and four concrete pilings remain as historical reminders. At the overlook informational sign, turn around and head back down the way you came toward Forest Beach Road.
The rock jetty at Mill Creek. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Finish – Rock Jetty at Mill Creek Entrance (between Forest Beach & Cockle Cove), South Chatham
Turn left onto Forest Beach Road into the beach parking lot. Halfway into the parking lot is a sandy path on the left.
Take a left onto the sandy path. Bare left onto the lower path. Finish at the large metal “5-MPH” Ideal Speed sign at the rock jetty entrance to Mill Creek.
Bask in an incredible view of Nantucket Sound from this remote beach!
I fell in love with the view of this remote stretch of Forest Beach and returned for the sunset. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
