Headwaters of the Cape Cod Canal and Cape Cod Bay. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
If you are looking for a morning or afternoon of free entertainment, look no further than the Sandwich Marina.
The Sandwich Marina, Bay side, sits about two miles north of the Sagamore Bridge. The marina is bustling with activity, both for those with a slip and those without one.
I happened to visit during an Army Corps of Engineers boating safety event. The offerings: free fishing lessons (off the pier), coast guard boat tours and ‘dunk an engineer’ were perfect shoulder season entertainment. While that community event may have sparked the visit, plenty of activities exist without it.
Dunk an engineer kept the kiddos entertained despite the wet weather. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
First, fishing. Unrelated to the event, dozens of anglers were casting or dropping line(s) up and down the pier. The free parking at the marina is a plus.
Second, the maritime traffic in the canal. Not overwhelming, but a steady flow of vessels of all sorts, sizes and sounds. With a half a dozen benches spaced along the waterfront; the marina is a people watchers paradise.
Third, the Cape Cod Canal Visitor Centeris not just for directions, but an interactive walk through exhibit. Three rooms, two of which have stunning (eye level) views of the canal, explain the history of and rationale for building the Cape Cod Canal. Spoiler alert: safer passage for ships compared to the treacherous shoals that surround the peninsula. There is even a retired service boat inside the building visitors can climb aboard and explore.
A stunning view and history of the Cape Cod Canal. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Fourth, a picture-perfect picnic location. A covered set of picnic tables can be found on a slightly elevated, somewhat hidden bluff, overlooking the head of the channel. The view may even qualify for a Cape-wide top 10 views list.
Finally, the railroad. Wait, what?! Yes, trains from Cape Cod Central Railroad and the Cape Cod Flyer pass over the tracks that cross Freezer Road, the main entryway into the marina. While the Cape Cod Railroad Bridge is on the other side of the Canal, in Bourne, the train may be the best kept secret for a complete view of the channel. Though, the Sandwich Train Station, while historic and still standing, does not stop for passengers anymore.
Slightly tucked away and covered picnic area near the Cape Cod Canal, Cape Cod Bay headwaters. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
(To be fair, the Cape Cod Canal Bikeway, also an Army Corps of Engineers Service Road, is the most common way to explore the Canal area.)
A chilly winter morning along the shores of Ridgevale Beach, Chatham.
Author’s Note: My father-in-law prominently features a comical coffee mug in his kitchen. It states, “No Coffee, No Workee.” Similarly, my own father writes, “Up, Coffee” on his daily “to do” list. While both of these seasoned coffee drinkers’ habits are no different than even mine, those funny symbols and practices speaks to the importance of the daily java jolt. I did not start drinking coffee regularly until after college, when the whole career-thing started. Sure, I’d have some from time to time on late nights studying at the library or to break-up an afternoon, but it was not part of anything that resembled a daily routine. Oh my, how that has changed. Fast forward many years later, and I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a coffee snob. The comical sign, “Life’s to short for bad [fill in the blank, coffee, wine, etc] comes to mind. There is nothing worse than a bad cup of coffee. Your stuck with it. To avoid such situations, I keep a mental list of diners, cafes and breakfast spots with at least decent coffee and I readily offer them as options when deciding if and where to go out for breakfast. All of this insanity somewhat explains why the Starbucks and locally owned cafes/coffee shops have thrived, with people literally spending their days (well, doing work thanks to wifi and cozy seating) and paychecks there.
My morning two-cups usually sustain me for the day. Occasionally, a post lunch or pre-long drive jolt is a nice surprise, if not necessity. I prefer the medium to dark roast, which I take black because, as I’ve learned, quality coffee doesn’t need fillers (which started thanks to my buddy Connor insulting me every time I put sugar and milk to improve the taste of terrible diner coffee). I also rotate where I go – especially on Cape Cod as there are plenty of good coffee stops. Are you up for a java journey across the Cape?
Cape Cod is known for many things – stunning beaches, fresh seafood, charming cottages, soft serve ice cream, even mini golf, to name a few – but one often overlooked feature is the coffee. There are a ton of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and deli’s to find an above average, if not great, cup of coffee. While this list is not comprehensive of every Cape town, I included at least one spot in all four Cape Cod regions.
The chicken salad wrap comes with a dill pickle and bag of chips.
Beth’s Bakery & Cafe. Sandwich Located on Jarvis Street in downtown Sandwich, Beth’s Bakery & Cafe is a fast-moving, yet delightfully bright danish and sandwich spot with a mix of indoor and outdoor seating. Beth’s features freshly baked goods below the counter, and a variety of sandwiches on the menu board above the register. There is a self-serve coffee station with a light roast, dark roast and decaf, which lends itself nicely to re-fills or a “hot top-off”. A dark roast paired well with my chicken salad wrap, which was quickly consumed on the outdoor patio.
Stop by on Sunday mornings in the summer to check out the classic/vintage car club.
Chatham Cookware Bakery, Chatham (downtown) Located on Main Street, smack in the middle of downtown Chatham, Chatham Cookware Cafe is a landmark in its own right. Known for its unofficial hosting of the vintage/classic car club of Chatham every Sunday morning in season, locals and visitors alike flock to Cookware to buy a coffee, thus, having an excuse to hang out with the cars. The cafe has a mix of front porch (bench) seating, tables inside as well as ample seating out back and on the side of the building. The self-serve coffee bar, featuring at least six different roasts, some of which are Beanstock (roasted locally in Wellfleet) is located between the deli, gift shelf and the register. I’ve tried at least 6 roasts, and the Black Fish Creek Blend (dark roast) is the tastiest. “Big and full-bodied with dark chocolate notes in the front and finishing with red berry and melon,” yum. Winter note: Cookware is closed until May, 2019, for remodeling.
The patio furniture outside Chatham Perk will return around Memorial Day weekend.
Chatham Perk, North Chatham A name play on “Central Perk” from the sitcom “Friends,” this diamond in the rough is located in North Chatham in the same plaza as the old Northport Restaurant (you probably don’t know what that is unless you’ve lived on the Cape for a long time). There is a small outdoor patio with umbrellas that catch the morning sun, with a mix of bartop and table seating inside facing the bay windows. They feature “Grab and Go” breakfast sandwiches and also make lunch sandwiches to go all day. A self-serve coffee station features 8 roasts by Cape Cod Coffee Roasters. I always go with the unbelievably tasty Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, a dark roast that has a ton of sweet notes. Of the freshly baked breads and muffins, their Perk Donut, which comes in sizes of small and large, is a must-try. You probably only need a small unless you are sharing. They also use bagels from a supplier in New York, so you can taste the quality, not to mention they are generous with the cream cheese smear. The smoothie bar is another option, especially in the dog days of summer. The staff, particularly Sean, is always friendly and moves quickly. Winter note: Perk is closed on Sundays in the off-season.
An old picture of Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, featuring their prominent ‘shark in the bush.’
Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, Chatham Now located on Crowell Road (formerly located downtown where JoMama’s Bagels resides) due to a dispute with a greedy landlord, the Village Bakery is tucked away off the main drag but is worth a super short detour. In the summer, the line stretches out the door. Unlike other bakeries on this list, Village Bakery freshly bakes an assortment of donuts (simple Cinnamon sugar is one of my favorite ways to start the morning). They also feature bagels, hot egg sandwiches, deli sandwiches and even have a few gluten-free baked goods. Their self-serve coffee counter features 8 roasts, most of which by the Art of Roasting. Oddly enough, like Perk, Village Bakery also features an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, but it tastes completely different than the roast at Perk. I cannot decide which one I like better. Winter note: Village Bakery is on vacation until February 25, 2019.
A throwback picture of Ellen and I posing with Mr. Optimist Cafe.
Optimist Cafe, Yarmouth There may not be a better morning drive than slowly making your way west along Route 6A, the Old Kings Highway, on the Bay side of Cape Cod. Surrounded by old Sea Captain’s home, antique shops, art galleries and marsh and wetlands, this quiet stretch of road is one of the most scenic on Cape Cod (Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet is stunning). At some point, you will pass by a Yellow gingerbread house with some funky artwork outside; you’ve arrived at the Optimist Cafe. If there was a logo or mascot for this website, the Optimist Cafe would be it. The sit-down restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and a pseudo-high tea. The interior is spacious, elegant and bright. The menu is abundant, yet focused on essential breakfast and lunch favorites. The coffee is the best for a sit-down restaurant (on or off the Cape). It’s a Douwe-Egbert medium roast that is brewed in a contraption that looks like a time machine. The coffee is so good that I will deprive myself of food and drink, so I can indulge with a third or fourth cup and a table pancake. Relax, the cups are on the small side. But that’s all part of it, you are in no rush and the atmosphere encourages diners to take your time and savor the flavors. Winter note: they’ve been known to take a month off in the winter so just check their off-season hours so you don’t get surprised (scroll down to “food”).
The “best coffee ever,” after Leg 3 of Ragnar Cape Cod in 2014. In the background, teammate Brian (in blue) fighting through his final miles.
Savory & the Sweet Escape, Truro It’s ironic that the smallest Cape town by population has one of the better coffee stops. Situated along busy Route 6, the “Heart and Soul of Truro” restaurant is half bakery, half pub, with cupcakes, egg sandwiches, pastries, lattes on one hand, and pizzas, grinders, burgers, and salads on the other. The brewed coffee is locally roasted Beanstock with a light, dark, decaf and two flavor roasts. My introduction to Savory was on the last leg (pun intended) of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod 2014 and was able to snap a picture of myself drinking the best cup of coffee ever (consider, my physical state of having run 21 miles, over a 24-hour-ish period, with 2-hours of sleep) with my buddy, Brian, in the background churning away his last few miles on a chilly May morning. While the “best coffee ever thought” may have been a stretch considering my delirium, it was a memorable moment, and I have the picture to prove it!
The logo says it all. Party time!
Wired Puppy, Provincetown At the end of the peninsula, this second location to the cafe on Newberry Street in Boston, resides on the quieter stretch of Commercial Street in P-Town. The atmosphere is hopping, the colors are vibrant and the coffee is hot and delicious. Each cup of coffee is certified organic and fair-trade which the baristas will happily tell you about if you ask. They don’t bother asking if you “need room” because the coffee is brimming with flavors of dark chocolate, caramel, toffee, and a hint of fruit, why drown that out? The coffee shop also has a bartop with high-top stools facing the window, a people-watchers dream.
