A beautiful shot of the Shack on a still morning. Photo credit: Mark Preu.
If you regularly visit Chatham Lighthouse and take the nearby stairs down to the beach below, you probably know of the seaside “shack” that sits upon the low dune about 1/3 mile away. Known as “Occupy Chatham South Beach,” a nod to the disagreement between locals and the Cape Cod National Seashore over who controls the land, the Shack just celebrated its sixth anniversary in February.
Six years! That achievement is impressive considering how similarly located beach camps, dune shacks, even waterfront homes, have succumbed to storms, tides and shifting sands of the Atlantic Ocean.
The fog blankets the overlook of Lighthouse Beach. On the upper right, you can see a faint circle of light in the fog – that is Chatham Lighthouse – and my ticket back to home! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.Th
Despite originally being erected from storm debris, the Shack has grown considerably in size, features and interest. Downright affection is a better description. The charming decorative touches illustrate community spirit and has contributed to shaping Chatham’s coastal identity.
Some refer to the structure as a “totem,” a natural object believed to have spiritual significance in the community. The Shack was featured by the Chatham Orpheum’s pre-movie visual tour of town, as it has “become an iconic image of the local community.”
While the Shack was definitely established in 2015, the designation by the Chatham Historical Commission might be aspirational. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Signs have been added over time, and people have carved their names or words into the drift wood. Christmas lights have shined during the holiday season powered by a solar panel once; and 1/4 mile extension chord another time. Tom Birch, the shack’s “keeper of the flag,” maintains a stars and stripes presence on the roof. It also has its own shark warning flag, though there are plenty of large signs on the beach that promote shark safety. The Facebook group, Occupy Chatham South Beach, has over 1,300 followers. The Shack was even painted on a whale as part of the Art in the Park exhibit at Kate Gould Park last summer.
The Shack is becoming better known with each passing year. Multiple engagements, selfies, meditations and even parties have occurred at the Shack. For good luck or just to be part of the story, people have left behind an item, ideally natural or native to Cape Cod. There is also a guestbook for visitors to sign. Though, good luck finding it as it is often buried in the sand.
The back of the Shack facing the rolling fog of Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Speaking of sand, recent storms have eroded the coast and knocked down dunes on nearby North Beach Island. The inner shore on which the shack is located is now more susceptible to the Atlantic Ocean.
So happy 6th birthday and/or anniversary to the Shack. May this cobbled together natural wonder bring laughter, peace, and hope to all who pass by. If a collection of driftwood on the shores of an unforgiving Atlantic Ocean can defy the odds of getting swept out to sea, so too can we persevere in the challenges that lay ahead.
Historic Chatham’s banner displaying some of the “stops” on the virtual bus tour. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s note: Earlier this month, Historic Chatham sponsored a free virtual historic bus tour of the town of Chatham to celebrate history weekend. Two 90-minute sessions circled town, featuring stops at several well known (and lesser known) locations, where a local expert (staff or volunteer) provided a brief introduction of the site. Local historian Ron Clark “drove the bus” and did a great job managing the technology and smooth transitions among multiple speakers. It has often been said that Cape Cod’s rich history, maritime, farming or otherwise, is part of what makes it special to many. In that vein, make sure to visit the historical society of any Cape Cod town for information on sites, tours and architecture. You will see Cape Cod in a whole new perspective; some of it hidden history in plain sight!
As we ponder more outdoor activities, dare I say adventures, to fill the day, consider your options with historical roots. Even if you missed the virtual bus tour, you can embark on your own magical mystery history tour by foot, bike or car!
Below are a list of locations from the tour, a fact or two, and a call for volunteers and donations to all who are able:
Eldredge Public Library (EPL), 564 Main Street. In 1896, the EPL was a gift to the people of Chatham from native son, Marcellus Eldredge, who was a successful businessman and legislator in Portsmouth New Hampshire, but who retained close ties to his home town. EPL programs are extensive from everything like the availability of daily newspapers, sections for children and young adults, book clubs, classes, and a Friends of the Library, who provide financial support for additional programming.
Chatham Conservation Foundation’s MayoHouse, 540 Main Street. The Josiah Mayo House is home to the Chatham Conservation Foundation, which currently holds 820 acres of conservation land in its portfolio. The home was built between 1818-1820 by Josiah Mayo, a blacksmith by trade, who was Postmaster in Chatham for 40 years and portrays life on Main Street in the 19th century.
The Godfrey Windmill, 125 Shattuck Place. Ever wonder where the term, “the daily grind” comes from? Why the windmill of course! Built in 1797 by Colonel Benjamin Godfrey on Mill Hill (now Stage Harbor Road), at the time, is one of the last of the town’s grist mills to be built. It was relocated to its current Chase Park location in the 1950s. Not only is the Godfrey Mill open to the public, once a year volunteers activate the mill and reenact grinding corn meal (visitors help) just as it did in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The 1887 railroad station is free (donations welcome) to visit in the summer. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Atwood School [now the Doc Keene Scout Hall], 224 Stage Harbor Road. The former school has served as the Scout Hall since the 1920s. Unlike many buildings in Chatham, including at least one former schoolhouse, this building has not moved. Instead, the street name was changed – Stage Harbor Road, was originally called Atwood Street.
The Atwood Museum, 347 Stage Harbor Road. The Atwood Museum is home to the Chatham Historical Society that leads preservation efforts and sponsors grant awards for local projects. The property is expansive with both indoor and outdoor galleries and exhibits from everything from the Mayflower’s arrival to World War II to photos of Chatham over the years.
Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge (Visitor Center), 1 Wikis Way. The 7,604 acre wildlife refuge was established in 1944 to provide a habitat for migratory birds. It is renowned for its sand stretching eight miles into the Atlantic Ocean, forming the barrier islands of North and South Monomoy. The Visitor’s Center and Refuge Headquarters is located on 40-acre Morris Island with a beach and short (3/4 miles) trail system loop.
This historic plaque tells the tale of the outdoor antenna trail exhibit at the Marconi-RCA Wireless Museum in Chatham. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Chatham Lighthouse, 37 Main Street. The original wood structures built in 1808 consisted of twin lighthouses to distinguish them (and Chatham Harbor) from Highland Light in Truro. The lighthouse has been re-built and moved multiple times over the years. However, the current beacon remains not only one of the most noticeable landmarks in town, but is currently in use for maritime rescue by the U.S. Coast Guard. The current light can be seen 24 nautical miles offshore.
The Marconi-RCA Wireless Museum, 847 Orleans Road. At the turn of the 20th century, Guglielmo Marconi completed two way communications between his 35,000 watt station in Wellfleet and Poldu England, which enabled mariners formerly isolated at sea to be able to communicate with the harbormaster and other boats. The Radio Corporation of America (RCA) acquired the assets of Marconi’s company after World War I and paved the way for modern day communication technology.
The Nickerson Family Association’s Caleb Nickerson House, 1107 Orleans Road. William Nickerson was the founder of Chatham, and this homestead (compound) celebrates the town’s founding family as well as acts as a working museum of life on Cape cod in the early 19th century.
The view northeast from Morris Island, which connects to Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Chatham Railroad Museum, 153 Depot Road. The 1887 railroad station served residents and visitors alike until 1937. A vintage, 1910 wood caboose that visitors can explore, arrived in 1963 to compliment the museum’s collection.
The Champlain Monument, [near] 608 Stage Harbor Road. The rock monument represents the first explorer, Samuel de Champlain, to land in the town in 1606.
Not on the tour, but worth noting in the context of Chatham’s history are the handful of residential properties currently under demolition delays due to the historic nature of the dwelling. Those homes are 26 Cockle Cove Road; 68 Shell Drive, 157 Cross Street, and 233 Seaview Street.
A historic cottage under a demolition delay, which expires August 3, 2020, located at 157 Cross Street. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While this virtual bus tour was free, many of these organizations are struggling financially through the shutdown caused by the pandemic. Please consider donating to or volunteering for these organizations to help them advance their mission and ensure a bright future promoting the historical assets of Chatham.
Having grown up in the northeast, it’s hard to imagine meeting someone who has never been to, let alone heard of, Cape Cod. But alas, it happens. For those who are not familiar with Cape Cod, here is short overview and list of what a visit or vacation may look like, from an admittedly biased observer.
A satellite view of Cape Cod, MA.
Cape Cod is a peninsula off the southeast coast of Massachusetts jutting out about 67 miles into the Atlantic Ocean. “The Cape” consists of 15 towns beginning at the Cape Cod Canal, two islands (Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket), and the area around Buzzards Bay. While most people experience Cape Cod during the busy summer months of July and August, the shoulder seasons (spring and fall) are increasingly popular times to visit and even winter is becoming stocked with events and activities to keep people coming back throughout the year. About 200,000 people live on the Cape year round, with the population more than doubling in the summer months.
The one and only, Wellfleet Drive-In Theatre.
The Cape Cod Rail Trail.
While there are many classic Cape Cod traditions to experience such as, watching a double feature at the Wellfleet Drive-In, riding, running or walking the Cape Cod Rail Trail, enjoying the raw bar at The Beachcomber or chowder at The Squire, exploring 63,000 acres of the Cape Cod National Seashore, climbing the steps of the Pilgrim Monument, catching a Cape League Baseball League game at one of ten fields spread from Orleans to Wareham, or visiting the Kennedy Museum, to name a few (and I didn’t even mention all the festivals and celebrations), these places may not always be there, as we learned painfully with Liam’s due to erosion at Nauset Beach. Take advantage while you can.
Here’s a short list of a few activities that make the Cape, well, the Cape for adults and kids a like:
A familiar sight off Route 28 in West Chatham.
Driving by familiar town and neighborhood sights;
Enjoying fresh seafood where ever you turn (if you’re not into that, don’t fret, the Cape is littered with tasty twists on traditional cuisines);
Packing up for multiple lazy beach days where you often forget what day it is;
Getting dragged with your family on a whale watch only to realize you really enjoyed it, even if you puked;
A few of my beach toys.
Competing with your fellow beachgoers in just about any beach game likepaddleball, corn hole, scoop golf, Waboba surf water ball, best sand castle, you name it;
Playing the role of wanna be local fisherman or typical tourist for a day of fishing on the boat or clamming in the flats;
Boating whether charter or some kind of tour, getting out on the water;
Re-discovering your appreciation for a deck of cards, board games and puzzles on rainy days;
Realizing soft serve ice cream cannot be beat;
Veteran’s Field, Home of the Chatham A’s.
Watching a Cape Cod Baseball League is just about the best way to spend a summer evening on Cape Cod;
Treating yourself to something sweet; homemade fudge, salt water taffy and at least one banana split;
Building up the nerve to sign-out a sailfish (single) sail boat and not capsize – or drift out to sea;
Photographing and touring a few of the dozen or so lighthouses spread throughout the Sound and Bay sides;
The majestic Chatham Lighthouse on a clear summer day.
Finding your inner “Tiger” on the back nine during a competitive game of mini golf;
Listening to (my) favorite, Ocean 104.7, custom crafted for Cape Cod’s news and ideas (radio station);
Soaking up summer sounds of the town(s) band concerts on summer evenings;
Going on breakfast run for fresh brewed local coffee and baked goods, returning as a hero to your family or group of friends;
Appreciating nature: beautiful gardens, blooms, sunsets, tides the occasional rainbow;
A bloom in our backyard.
Collecting sea shells, sea glass, and other wash’a shore items; and
Cursing yourself repeatedly for deciding to depart the Cape on Sunday after 10:00am (traffic!).
Whatever you decide to do, slow down just a little bit and you will enjoy your time on the Cape.
