Chatham Perk – HappyCapeCod

Hiking, Biking, Running & Walking Trails, Oh My!

Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors.

Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!

Popular Trails (The “Go To’s”)

The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.

Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.

The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.

Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects.

Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.

Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride.

Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.

Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.

The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.

Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected).

“Tucked Away”

Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.

Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!

The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.

Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.

“Peace and Quiet”

A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.

Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.

Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.

Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).

One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.

Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.

I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth; Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.

Coffee on Cape Cod

A chilly winter morning along the shores of Ridgevale Beach, Chatham.

Author’s Note: My father-in-law prominently features a comical coffee mug in his kitchen. It states, “No Coffee, No Workee.” Similarly, my own father writes, “Up, Coffee” on his daily “to do” list. While both of these seasoned coffee drinkers’ habits are no different than even mine, those funny symbols and practices speaks to the importance of the daily java jolt. I did not start drinking coffee regularly until after college, when the whole career-thing started. Sure, I’d have some from time to time on late nights studying at the library or to break-up an afternoon, but it was not part of anything that resembled a daily routine. Oh my, how that has changed. Fast forward many years later, and I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a coffee snob. The comical sign, “Life’s to short for bad [fill in the blank, coffee, wine, etc] comes to mind. There is nothing worse than a bad cup of coffee. Your stuck with it. To avoid such situations, I keep a mental list of diners, cafes and breakfast spots with at least decent coffee and I readily offer them as options when deciding if and where to go out for breakfast. All of this insanity somewhat explains why the Starbucks and locally owned cafes/coffee shops have thrived, with people literally spending their days (well, doing work thanks to wifi and cozy seating) and paychecks there.

My morning two-cups usually sustain me for the day. Occasionally, a post lunch or pre-long drive jolt is a nice surprise, if not necessity. I prefer the medium to dark roast, which I take black because, as I’ve learned, quality coffee doesn’t need fillers (which started thanks to my buddy Connor insulting me every time I put sugar and milk to improve the taste of terrible diner coffee). I also rotate where I go – especially on Cape Cod as there are plenty of good coffee stops. Are you up for a java journey across the Cape?

Cape Cod is known for many things – stunning beaches, fresh seafood, charming cottages, soft serve ice cream, even mini golf, to name a few – but one often overlooked feature is the coffee. There are a ton of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and deli’s to find an above average, if not great, cup of coffee. While this list is not comprehensive of every Cape town, I included at least one spot in all four Cape Cod regions.

The chicken salad wrap comes with a dill pickle and bag of chips.

Beth’s Bakery & Cafe. Sandwich
Located on Jarvis Street in downtown Sandwich, Beth’s Bakery & Cafe is a fast-moving, yet delightfully bright danish and sandwich spot with a mix of indoor and outdoor seating. Beth’s features freshly baked goods below the counter, and a variety of sandwiches on the menu board above the register. There is a self-serve coffee station with a light roast, dark roast and decaf, which lends itself nicely to re-fills or a “hot top-off”. A dark roast paired well with my chicken salad wrap, which was quickly consumed on the outdoor patio.

Stop by on Sunday mornings in the summer to check out the classic/vintage car club.

Chatham Cookware Bakery, Chatham (downtown)
Located on Main Street, smack in the middle of downtown Chatham, Chatham Cookware Cafe is a landmark in its own right. Known for its unofficial hosting of the vintage/classic car club of Chatham every Sunday morning in season, locals and visitors alike flock to Cookware to buy a coffee, thus, having an excuse to hang out with the cars. The cafe has a mix of front porch (bench) seating, tables inside as well as ample seating out back and on the side of the building. The self-serve coffee bar, featuring at least six different roasts, some of which are Beanstock (roasted locally in Wellfleet) is located between the deli, gift shelf and the register. I’ve tried at least 6 roasts, and the Black Fish Creek Blend (dark roast) is the tastiest. “Big and full-bodied with dark chocolate notes in the front and finishing with red berry and melon,” yum. Winter note: Cookware is closed until May, 2019, for remodeling.

The patio furniture outside Chatham Perk will return around Memorial Day weekend.

Chatham Perk, North Chatham
A name play on “Central Perk” from the sitcom “Friends,” this diamond in the rough is located in North Chatham in the same plaza as the old Northport Restaurant (you probably don’t know what that is unless you’ve lived on the Cape for a long time). There is a small outdoor patio with umbrellas that catch the morning sun, with a mix of bartop and table seating inside facing the bay windows. They feature “Grab and Go” breakfast sandwiches and also make lunch sandwiches to go all day. A self-serve coffee station features 8 roasts by Cape Cod Coffee Roasters. I always go with the unbelievably tasty Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, a dark roast that has a ton of sweet notes. Of the freshly baked breads and muffins, their Perk Donut, which comes in sizes of small and large, is a must-try. You probably only need a small unless you are sharing. They also use bagels from a supplier in New York, so you can taste the quality, not to mention they are generous with the cream cheese smear. The smoothie bar is another option, especially in the dog days of summer. The staff, particularly Sean, is always friendly and moves quickly. Winter note: Perk is closed on Sundays in the off-season.

An old picture of Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, featuring their prominent ‘shark in the bush.’

Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, Chatham
Now located on Crowell Road (formerly located downtown where JoMama’s Bagels resides) due to a dispute with a greedy landlord, the Village Bakery is tucked away off the main drag but is worth a super short detour. In the summer, the line stretches out the door. Unlike other bakeries on this list, Village Bakery freshly bakes an assortment of donuts (simple Cinnamon sugar is one of my favorite ways to start the morning). They also feature bagels, hot egg sandwiches, deli sandwiches and even have a few gluten-free baked goods. Their self-serve coffee counter features 8 roasts, most of which by the Art of Roasting. Oddly enough, like Perk, Village Bakery also features an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, but it tastes completely different than the roast at Perk. I cannot decide which one I like better. Winter note: Village Bakery is on vacation until February 25, 2019.

A throwback picture of Ellen and I posing with Mr. Optimist Cafe.

Optimist Cafe, Yarmouth
There may not be a better morning drive than slowly making your way west along Route 6A, the Old Kings Highway, on the Bay side of Cape Cod. Surrounded by old Sea Captain’s home, antique shops, art galleries and marsh and wetlands, this quiet stretch of road is one of the most scenic on Cape Cod (Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet is stunning). At some point, you will pass by a Yellow gingerbread house with some funky artwork outside; you’ve arrived at the Optimist Cafe. If there was a logo or mascot for this website, the Optimist Cafe would be it. The sit-down restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and a pseudo-high tea. The interior is spacious, elegant and bright. The menu is abundant, yet focused on essential breakfast and lunch favorites. The coffee is the best for a sit-down restaurant (on or off the Cape). It’s a Douwe-Egbert medium roast that is brewed in a contraption that looks like a time machine. The coffee is so good that I will deprive myself of food and drink, so I can indulge with a third or fourth cup and a table pancake. Relax, the cups are on the small side. But that’s all part of it, you are in no rush and the atmosphere encourages diners to take your time and savor the flavors. Winter note: they’ve been known to take a month off in the winter so just check their off-season hours so you don’t get surprised (scroll down to “food”).

The “best coffee ever,” after Leg 3 of Ragnar Cape Cod in 2014. In the background, teammate Brian (in blue) fighting through his final miles.

Savory & the Sweet Escape, Truro
It’s ironic that the smallest Cape town by population has one of the better coffee stops. Situated along busy Route 6, the “Heart and Soul of Truro” restaurant is half bakery, half pub, with cupcakes, egg sandwiches, pastries, lattes on one hand, and pizzas, grinders, burgers, and salads on the other. The brewed coffee is locally roasted Beanstock with a light, dark, decaf and two flavor roasts. My introduction to Savory was on the last leg (pun intended) of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod 2014 and was able to snap a picture of myself drinking the best cup of coffee ever (consider, my physical state of having run 21 miles, over a 24-hour-ish period, with 2-hours of sleep) with my buddy, Brian, in the background churning away his last few miles on a chilly May morning. While the “best coffee ever thought” may have been a stretch considering my delirium, it was a memorable moment, and I have the picture to prove it!

Wired Puppy, Provincetown
At the end of the peninsula, this second location to the cafe on Newberry Street in Boston, resides on the quieter stretch of Commercial Street in P-Town. The atmosphere is hopping, the colors are vibrant and the coffee is hot and delicious. Each cup of coffee is certified organic and fair-trade which the baristas will happily tell you about if you ask. They don’t bother asking if you “need room” because the coffee is brimming with flavors of dark chocolate, caramel, toffee, and a hint of fruit, why drown that out? The coffee shop also has a bartop with high-top stools facing the window, a people-watchers dream.

What is your favorite coffee stop on Cape Cod?

Gift Shops on Cape Cod

Author’s Note: It is not lost on me that life is not always gumdrops and roses. I received a heavy dose reality check last week while reading headlines on the Hartford Courant during lunch. Three aricles on their homepage “featured” a disturbing act of anti-semitism during a performance of Fiddler on the Roof in Baltimore (which we had just seen in Hartford the week prior), a disgusting story of human trafficking in a suburb not more than 30 minutes from home, and a “are-you-kidding me” case of animal cruelty in the town I grew up in. I literally lost my appetite. Not to mention the ongoing wildfires in California, chaos on the southern border and yet another damaging climate report noting that we may be at the point of no return for a permanently warming planet. Such saddness, devastation, tragedy and uncertinly is becoming too common and all the more reason to be thankful for what we have – now and every single day.

Be thankful for what you have — I am thankful for waking up today, my family, friends, health and the ability to hope, laugh and wonder. Don’t frown about what you don’t have. Experiences matter, stuff does not. Help others. Be nice. Smile and laugh as much as you can. Tell people how you really feel now, don’t wait. Get outside more. Turn off push notifications and alerts. Read a newspaper when you have no where to be. Drive with the windows down and your favorite music turned up. Throw your routine upside down every now and then. Okay, enough of the soap box.

As we transition into the (usually) happy holiday season, part of the magic of the season is giving. Such small acts can reap big reactions and rewards. It’s what makes the season special – and those experiences are what counts. Even more important, are the faces you may not see; adults and children in need that may sneak a smile just from a strangers’ generority. Whoever the gift recipient, there are plenty of “ways” to give — i.e., shop — Black Friday sales, Small Business Saturday, Cybermonday discounts, Giving Tuesday, and the hundreds of “coupon-emails” you will no doubt receive from any business you ever shared your email with! Shop local whenever possible, as it has been estimated that 2/3 or $0.67 of each dollar spent locally STAYS in the local community. If that’s not an economic development plan, what is? To fulfill some of your gift giving needs, with a nautical or coastal twist, check out these Cape Cod shops!

Gift Shops on Cape Cod

Barry’s Barn, East Dennis. Painter C. Barry Hills, runs a small botique gift shop just off scenic Route 6A in East Dennis, a few minutes away from the popular greasy spoon, Grumpy’s Restaurant. The two-story, charming half gift shop/ workshop (upstairs) barn behind his home, features a mix of paintings, gifts, home decour and garden accents for coastal living with a touch of vintage. Whenever we have a lazy day along 6A, stopping at “the Barn” to poke around is a requirement. Our “Cape Escape” themed living room has a few pieces from “the Barn.”

Christmas Joy, South Chatham. Their tagline rings true, “where you can

experience the joy of Christmas everyday!” Sure, Christmas shopping in shorts and sandals may seem a little odd in the northeast, but there are so many creative works and fun little games, puzzles, etc, that it’s hard not to get lost in this seasonal escape. The store is also the anchor of the South Chatham village and business community, surrounded by two restaurants, hardware store and branch library.

Hattie D’s, Harwichport. Hattie D’s was a new discovery this year during an autumn “slow ride” down Route 28 to the Bourne Bridge. The small gift shop and art store features a mix of antique decorative pieces, home furnishings, lighting as well as a robust “create-your-own” art supply section. What distinguishes Hattie D’s from other stores is their decorative art classes, led by three different artists, with a cap of 10 people per session. We left the store with a discounted Halloween decoration and felt satisfied with the surprise stop.

Just Picked, Yarmouthport. Located at a dangerous intersection (blind curve) along Route 6A and Willow Street, Just Picked features three “departments,” coastal clothing, gifts and home furnishings, played out in two buildings. Perhaps most important, Just Picked carries many of the same items that other stores price higher (notably accent pillows, fun signs, and decorattive ornaments). The store is clean, decorated for the season, and a fun game or humorous gadget seems to always be displayed at the register. My favorite game is their Cape Cod trivia cards. For a small shop, they also have an online store.

Monomoy Salvage, Chatham. If owner Carol Sherman did not set up some of her nautical antique items outside the barn-size gift shop, you may not see a reason to stop. The white one room barn, with faded front signage, isn’t much to look at, but don’t let that fool you. The broken sea shell driveway is a red carpet to some pretty cool finds. A mix of “salvaged” nautical instruments, signs, antique paintings and coastal home furnishings are the core contents. On the other hand, what makes the place unique is there collection of whales, wine crates, mermaids, baseball memorbilia and oars. Where else have you those items mentioned in the same sentence!

Shor, Provincetown. The up-scale home furnishings store is located in the heart of Commerical Street, and invites you to see Herbert and Kevin at work with interior design projects. It’s not a large store – more of a mini showroom – but they have items you may have not seen before. (A circular mirror surrounded by two dozen white oars was particulary impressive.) The store definitely has a “be careful, don’t touch that” feel to it, but the doors are open.

Tale of the Cod

, Chatham. Located at the “tail end” of downtown, Tale of the Cod is one of my favorite stores, if not just for the perfect name. The transformed sea captains home is a series of displays within just three rooms, but it feels much larger with alcoves and the long and narrow home furnishings area. The inspiration for our (7-foot) seashell tree and many of the first ornaments came from their displays. Fast forward to present day, their Scout line is

another perfect fit for our furry child!

There are many other local stores: surf shops, pet stores, clothing stores and other specialty goods stores, all of which are worth mentioning, so stay tuned for more shopping tips!

As a teaser, my go-top surf shop is Pump House in Orleans; pet shop is Barkers, Orleans; gear rental is Chatham Kayak Company; hot food to go is Chatham Fish and Lobster, sandwich shop is Corner Store, coffee shop is Chatham Perk, brewery is Devil’s Purse in Dennis, and clothing store is Black Eel Outfitters in Dennis. Breakfast and lunch spots leaving the Cape are Marshland and Beth’s Bakery, Sandwich, respectively.