by Mike Shaw
Few landmarks in Cape Cod – outside of the ubiquitous lighthouses dotting the 70 mile peninsula – are as instantly recognizable as Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown. Affectionately known as “Ptown,” Provincetown is best known for its artists, beaches, harbor, tourist industry, and inclusive vibe. The countercultural appeal of Ptown has held steady along with its growth as a tourist destination, becoming more popular as the town hosted festivals and week-long events throughout the year. Over the holidays, I had the good fortune to make several day trips to Ptown and learned more about the town’s rich history and mystique which keeps drawing people back.
But first, a little history of Ptown.
Ptown is located at the tip of Cape Cod, encompassing about 18 square miles. Surrounded by water in nearly every direction, the town has approximately 20 miles of coastal shoreline. Ptown is bordered to the east by its only neighbor, Truro. About 70 percent of the town’s land area is owned by the National Park Service, which operates the Cape Cod National Seashore. To the north lie the Province Lands, the area of dunes and small ponds from Mount Ararat in the east to Race Point in the west. The Cape Cod Bay shoreline extends from Race Point to Wood End to Long Point, which in turn points inward towards the town, and provides a natural barrier for Provincetown Harbor. All three points are marked by lighthouses.
On September 6, 1620, the ship Mayflower set sail from Plymouth, England to a new land, carrying her crew and 102 passengers. About 60 days later, land was spotted off the coast of Cape Cod, far north of their intended destination at the mouth of the Hudson River. Disheartened by their difficult journey across the Atlantic, they sought shelter in Provincetown Harbor.
Though the Pilgrims settled across the bay in Plymouth, the area enjoyed an early reputation for its valuable fishing grounds. In 1727, the Precinct of Cape Cod was incorporated as a township. Ptown grew rapidly as a fishing and whaling center. The population was bolstered by numerous Portuguese sailors, many of whom settled in Ptown after being hired to work on U.S. ships.
Now onto the Monument!
The Pilgrim Monument was built (1907-10) to commemorate the landfall of the Pilgrims at Provincetown on November 11, 1620 and the signing of the Mayflower Compact, the Plymouth Colony’s first governing document, in Provincetown Harbor. Standing at 252 feet tall, the Monument dominates the town’s skyline and commands reverence and awe from all who gaze at her. By pure coincidence, I actually visited Ptown on the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrims’ arrival – November 11, 2020. Without a fault, pilgrim displays adorned all corners of the town as it commemorated this most auspicious occasion. And, being COVID-mindful, all pilgrims wore facial coverings (can’t be too careful!).
According to the Provincetown Museum (link below): Work on the (monument’s) foundation began on June 20, 1907 and was completed on August 8, 1907. The cornerstone of the Pilgrim Monument was laid in an imposing Masonic ceremony on August 20, 1907. President Teddy Roosevelt attended the ceremony and gave the main speech. Roosevelt sailed into Provincetown harbor on the morning of the ceremony from his home in Oyster Bay, Long Island, on the presidential yacht (coincidentally named the Mayflower). Construction was begun on the Pilgrim Monument on June 18, 1908. The first piece of granite, weighing 4,000 pounds, was swung into place upon the foundation without any formal ceremony.
Work continued until November 26, 1908, when it had to be stopped because of bad weather. It was resumed again on April 9, 1909, and continued throughout the rest of the year and into 1910. Ptown marked the official dedication of the Pilgrim Monument on August 5, 1910 with myriad special guests, including President William Howard Taft who arrived that morning on the government yacht Mayflower. The U.S. Government retained the right to use the Monument during wartime. During World War I it was used as a lookout tower and later during World War II it was rumored the tower was used as a testing area for secret communications experiments. The government did not relinquish control over the tower until 1959.
Provincetown Museum link: https://www.pilgrim-monument.org/building-the-monument/
Simply put, no trip to Ptown is complete without a visit to the Pilgrim Monument. Fuel up, pace yourself, and ascend the 116 steps to the top where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the town, Cape Cod Bay, and if you’re really lucky, Boston’s skyline. No matter what you can see, take a moment to soak up the significance of America’s tallest granite-only structure and its indelible place in our nation’s history. As locals like to say, when you’ve arrived in Ptown, you’re at the end of the world.
