The winter season is quieter at Mac’s. Come summer time, a line of people may very well be forming along that walkway. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: There are signs of spring teasing us as the temperatures slowly rise and days grow longer. My inner skier does not like this in-between winter and spring period, as it’s too warm for snow to fall, but cold enough to keep lawns brown. For me, the NCAA March Madness tournament weeks are the unofficial season transition. Additionally, “Opening Day notices,” whether from seasonal businesses, golf courses or Major League Baseball gets us all excited for spring. Spring (and fall), the so-called “shoulder tourist seasons” on Cape Cod, have only increased in popularity so essentially, spring kicks-off a ten-month marathon of economic activity. Here’s to another great season for all Cape Cod merchants, businesses and community-based organizations.
The re-designed counter with more selections of entrees, drinks and raw bar. Photo credit Jeff Shaw.
Nine times out of ten, my first destination after a long drive to the Cape is 1291 Main Street, Chatham. That is not the address of our home, but the location of Chatham Fish & Lobster, now a part of Mac’s Seafood Cape Cod. For as long as I can remember, the fish market/fast-fresh restaurant has been located on the lower level of the main building in the plaza diagonally across from Pate’s Restaurant along Route 28 in between West Chatham and downtown. The fish market always enjoyed a “mad-dash” rush around 5:15 pm as the seafood market closed promptly at 5:30 pm, while the fast-fresh restaurant was open until 7:00 pm and was never busy.
The darkened fish market, open until 5:30 pm daily, in the background. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
In the spring of 2018, David Carnes, former owner of Chatham Fish and Lobster sold the business to Mac Hay, co-owner of Mac’s Seafood, whose restaurants and markets in the Outer Cape were 23-year customers of Chatham Fish and Lobster. As with any ownership change, some customers (well, us) were concerned with potential changes to the menu, quality and preparation. Our family is thrilled that one thing remains the same: all fried seafood, fries, pizza and other entrees remain gluten free. As we have learned over time, most restaurants cannot accommodate many menu items for gluten-sensitive people, unless they have separate kitchens or preparation stations. Those configurations requires extra space and training which has a cost, so most restaurants don’t bother. Thank you Mac’s, for bothering!
A local vibe to the interior decor. The expansive raw bar on the far left. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While the seafood market side of the business is largely unchanged, the fast-fresh saw a major face-lift. The interior was completely remodeled, with a sleek, new look with a white subway tile wall, illuminated menu boards, and re-purposed “driftwood-style” counter. A fully stocked raw bar captures attention near the expanded seating area. Taps for five draft beers as well as a handful of wines give adults an added order consideration. In the summer, picnic tables line the front patio, as does an actual line of hungry customers, some times all the way into the parking lot!
A Mac’s-branded tides chart calendar. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
In addition to Chatham, Mac’s Seafood can be found in Eastham (Mac’s Market and Kitchen), Provincetown (Mac’s Fish House) and Wellfeet (Mac’s on the Pier, Mac’s Shack). I’ve been to both Wellfleet locations, which are down the street from one another, but offer a different experience. Mac’s on the Pier is the quintessential clam shack, with picnic bench seating, fried seafood baskets, with views of the harbor. On the other hand, Mac’s Shack is a bustling tavern, which use to be a nautical shop set in a 19th century house, featuring freshly caught seafood, spirited cocktails and close tables. I’ve only driven by the newly established Mac’s Market and Kitchen along Route 6, and have not yet tried the Provincetown location. (When in P-Town, I find myself drawn back to The Canteen and that fun backyard.)
Hearty to-go dinners of fried scallops and clam strips from Mac’s Chatham Fish & Lobster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Mac’s story dates back a few generations. The business model is focused on local, sustainable seafood, and the story goes how Mac’s overcame a number of challenges of changes in seafood markets and regulations. To meet increasing demand, Mac’s even mastered overnight cold shipping to reach folks across the country. Whether you are looking for fresh filets to prepare at home, a crunchy fried seafood basket, or a steaming cup of chowder, try Mac’s!
Author’s Note: Happy 2020! As the calendar turned from December to January, a renewed sense of excitement and anticipation of a new year – even decade – can be hard to ignore. Will everyone be driving an electric vehicle over new, safer and modernly designed Bourne and Sagamore bridges, by the end of the decade? Will composting food waste be the norm, to slow the cost of garbage collection and put to better use the release of carbon into the atmosphere. Further, what will our ocean look like; temperature, sea level rise, teaming with fish? I hope so.
This new decade is also going to be a big year for the Shaws, as our family will be adding a new member. A nervous excitement is the best description at this point. While the title wave of responsibility and learning is starting to crest, I plan to squeeze in a little fun while I still can. One of my favorite ways to relax, catch-up with friends and support local businesses is to visit a favorite or new brewery. Can releases and live music are the preferred times to go, as that secondary excitement usually makes for a good vibe. When planning a brewery tour or visit, it’s hard not to initially think of Colorado, Maine, or Vermont for those big name breweries, though Cape Cod seems to be fertile ground for the craft brew scene as well, with three new breweries having opened within the last two years. Whether you find yourself on the Upper, Mid, Lower or Outer Cape, there’s a brewery for you on Cape Cod.
Breweries “Hopping Up” All Over Cape Cod
It’s not new, but the pace of local craft breweries opening across the United States, especially in the northeast, more so in Massachusetts is extraordinary. Did you know Cape Cod is the home to breweries, wineries, a cidery, a vineyard and even a distillery? I didn’t. Part of the Cape Cod Craft Beverage Trail, over a dozen craft establishments have sprouted up across Cape Cod, with most growth among the breweries, three within the last two years. If you enjoy yard games (Naukabout), food trucks (Cape Cod Beer), mini golf (Barnstable Brewing) table games (Hog Island) or pizza (Bad Martha), these breweries are for you:
So many beers to try, so little time. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery, Falmouth, is the newest brewery on Cape Cod and the second location in the Bad Martha family, the original in Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard. The Falmouth location is near Mashpee Commons, housed in a giant, and beautifully restored rustic barn. Plentiful outdoor seating and parking makes your arrival effortless. Inside the tap room is a large bar, high top seating and a large merchandise section. Dogs are allowed, which won me over quickly. The brewery boasts over ten beers on rotating taps, with a good selection of 4-pack tall boy cans to go. The kitchen serves a variety of pizza, which we have not yet tried. The beer, we did try. Bad Martha’s flights are a delight, with four 5 oz. pours and a paper and pencil for note taking, or in our case, a Yahtzee scorecard. The flagship beer, Bad Martha Ale is an amber ale, with a bit of a Guinness-like finish, was my favorite. The highly popular “508 IPA” was only available in cans and was later consumed by a buddy before I could try it. Kyle! Our bartender, Sheila, from Vermont, who lived in Colorado, gave us plenty of common ground to talk about. The brewery is open ever day, beginning at 11:00 am.
A brew break during the 2019 Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. Photo credit: Barnstable Brewing.
Barnstable Brewing, Barnstable, is another newer brewery on Cape Cod, despite the founder having 30 years experience making small batches for family and local events. The Barnstable brewery is conveniently located off Route 28, and just happens to be next to Adventure Falls Mini Golf. What better way to spend a spring, summer or fall afternoon – mini golf and beer. Boom! The exterior of the building does not scream brewery, but once inside, has an instant, laid-back family room feel. There are over-sized couches, high tops, and board games. The bar is a long enough to seat over a dozen people, with a handful of drafts and a few canned options. The complimentary pretzels at the bar is a nice touch. The outdoor area features Adirondack chairs, patio furniture and a fire pit. A giant Connect 4 game adds nice color (and playful vibe) to the deck. The blueberry ale is delicious, available in cans and the winner of the day. The brewery is open Thursday through Sunday, and hours are variable. My first visit was at 2:00 pm despite their website saying their hours were 4:00-8:00 pm. Win-win!
Lots of choices on tap at Cape Cod Beer. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Cape Cod Beer, Hyannis, is the long-time, dare I say original, craft brewery on Cape Cod. Their tagline, “A vacation in every pint,” sums it up. Having been around for a long time (1996), Cape Cod Beer is found in pretty much every restaurant or bar from the Upper to Outer Cape. The Cape Cod Red is the flagship brew, though Cape Cod Porter got my attention on this latest visit. The brewery has come along way since my first tour over a decade ago when you could only peek in the brewing operation. The covered outdoor patio greets visitors, followed by a store with merchandise and fridge featuring cans and growlers. The non-liquid “attention draw” is the toy truck collection mounted on the wall. Two complete Matchbox Collectibles Beer Truck Collections; the Great American Micro Breweries and Models of Yesteryear. I won’t spoil the cool story of how this came to be, and instead hope you’ll see it for yourself. There are a ton of events every month at the brewery, such as group fun runs, live music, tours, home brew club gatherings, (hula) hoops and hops night, and even flannel Friday axe throwing. Yeah, Cape Cod Beer has a sense of humor — and a sense for fun. A vacation in every pint, indeed.
Dogs like the outdoor space at Devil’s Purse. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Devil’s Purse Brewing Company, South Dennis, is an established brewery located along industrial row of Great Western Road. The brewery shares the building with other professional offices, but added an outdoor seating area in a section of the parking lot closest to the front door. The outdoor area is yard game and dog friendly, with customized cornhole boards placed carefully between picnic bench seating. The indoor area is cozy, with a few table tops, but most of the room is reserved for the brewing operations. While the handline Kolsch is the flagship beer, my favorite beer only found once in cans, was the Hens & Chickens Double IPA, surprisingly drinkable for such a high A/V. Devil’s Thumb hours are earlier than most, with a 12:00-7:00 pm.
We never did get on the ping pong table. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Hog Island Beer Company, Orleans, is another established brewery located next to the Old Jail House Tavern, and down the street from the Beacon Room, on West Road. The outdoor area features yard games, seating and is dog-friendly. But don’t try to bring your cute pooch inside, they did not smile, innocent as the transgression was. For us paddleboarders, the Hog Island story is a good one, and the brewery just turned five years old. As Frosty the Snowman would say, “Happy Birthday!” The indoor space is large, with pretty much any table game imaginable; ping pong, billiards, foosball, air hockey and more. Ellen and I each ordered a flight, with generous pours. My favorite was the Moon Snail Pale Ale, though it was not available in cans at the time. During our last visit, staff were setting up for a private event, so add Hog Island to your short list of places to host your next special occasion.
The colorful can cooler is hard to ignore at Naukabout Brew Company. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Naukabout Beer Company, Mashpee, is a new brewery with the most amazing outdoor playground (for adults) maybe ever. First, the brewery actually has a view of Mashpee Pond, Sam’s Cove side. Second, the multi-level backyard has every classic yard game from horseshoes, cornhole, washers and more. The indoor space is comfortable, with a mahogany bar and well crafted wood tables. The tap list is extensive, which is surprising for a brewery that is less than two years old, but then again, go big or go home. Naukabout does not do flights, but instead does short and long pours. I sampled 3 short pours, still a hearty 8 ounces. The winner of the bunch was “Quitting Time NEIPA,” though the other 12 beers on tap meant that a return visits needs to happen.
Cheers from the outdoor space at Naukabout! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Other breweries on Cape Cod include Hope Shoal Ciderworks in Provincetown (no public location) and Aquatic Brewing (brewery in planning) in Falmouth. Who knows, by the time this post goes live, there may be a handful more! I hope so. Cheers!
Standing in front of the former West Harwich School House, which may become a maritime museum and visitor’s center featuring Captain’s Row. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Author’s Note: You’ve heard it before, but its worth repeating, the off-seasons (winter) and shoulder seasons (spring and fall) are great times to visit Cape Cod. One reason, as it relates to the topic below, is less traffic. Less traffic (i.e., people) means the main roads – Route 28 and Route 6A – are wide-open and you can actually make a left turn without risking your life. It is now safe to pull-over to the side of the road and take a closer look at the sights and scenery. Some sights, often an afterthought, are historic 18th and 19th century homes, commercial buildings and churches that dot the landscape and provide a glimpse into Cape Cod’s storied past.
Some of the oldest and most unique buildings are located off the main roads of Route 28 (named “Main Street” in most towns it cuts through) and Route 6A (it is referred to as the Old Kings Highway after all). So this off-season, take a leisurely drive along these roads, but pay close attention to the stretch of Route 28 through West Harwich, from the Herring River (near the Weatherdeck Restaurant and Harbor Glen Mini Golf) to the Dennis town line. The almost 1-mile stretch is locally known as “Captain’s Row,” featuring two dozen former sea captains’ homes and historic buildings, many of which are designated on the National Register of Historic Places. Indeed, hidden history in plain sight!
Captain’s Row: Hidden History in Plain Sight in West Harwich
Captain Caleb Chase House, West Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While I am not a local zoning expert or historian (though I did take Art History 102 in college), I do appreciate history, culture, traditions, character and origins of how things came to be. A fun example of the latter are street names. In Harwich alone, the following street names exists: Happy Way, Wheelock Road, Punkhorn Road, and Deep Hole Road. Each street has its own story, of which I do not know, other than a passing reference to an old quarry near the shoreline for Deep Hole Road. Street names are (were) often named after actual people, who originally lived or owned that land. Others, like Main Street, Ocean View Drive, or Post Road have literal meanings. While significant to local history, street signs are just that, signs, leaving the casual observer left to wonder its meaning. The same can be said for historic buildings – often hidden in plain sight – that have their own story to tell. But unlike street signs that pass the test of time, those stories and not-so-hidden history could be lost forever.
Scattered among modern homes, popular restaurants, commercial centers, and seasonal entertainment, is a West Harwich neighborhood with deep historical roots and cultural significance of Cape Cod’s past. Despite being located on a now bustling stretch of Route 28, the neighborhood “epitomizes an old Yankee colonial village. It’s an unusual slice of history,” said 9th generation resident Dr. Duncan Berry. Two dozen buildings (most of which are houses) along this corridor have been inventoried at the Massachusetts Historical Commission and identified as core historic structures, recommended to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Each building is an example of a major style of American residential architecture from the 1740s to the 1940s. Yet, this history is at risk.
Captain Horace Berry House, West Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
There has been a resurgence of advocacy efforts to protect Captain’s Row, as recent proposals to demolish these historic buildings have come before town officials. One proposal to raze a sea captain’s home built in 1878 in order to develop a large retail outlet drew widespread oppostion at a public hearing before the project was later withdrawn. Another attempt was made recently to demolish a vacant historic building that drew protestors. In response, educational campaigns to raise awareness of the issue have been launched, such as “The Houses of Captain’s Row” exhibit at the Harwich Historical Society, regular letters-to-the-editor about the latest “DCPC” update (District of Critical Planning Concern) have been published and a charming aerial video of the village accompanied by amazingly “ravey” background music was posted. (Somehow the history-rave music combination works.) But the ultimate preservation effort is pursuit of a historic “designation” to protect certain buildings from demolition or major re-construction that would destroy its historic significance.
I’ve come to learn there are multiple official designations to protect historic places (cultural, historic, architectural, economic resource, transportation management, etc.). Without getting too deep into the zoning and legal protections, many neighbors would like to protect the original (historic) structure of the buildings while allowing them to be used for modern-day commercial or residential use. In other words, locals do not want to let the buildings to decay further and become mothballed museums of the past (though there actually is a plan for the former West Harwich School House to become a maritime museum and visitor’s center), but to attract businesses or residents to give a second, third, fourth or tenth life to the original property. That “next life” will be a challenge since that stretch of Route 28 is not pedestrian friendly, the town already lacks affordable housing, and some of the properties need major (costly) repairs. And of course, zoning, licensing, etc.
Captain Edwin Taylor House, West Harwich. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
I’ll admit, until recently, I was an oblivious passerby cruising along Route 28 through the area, but now that I understand and appreciate the history, I’d like to see these historic structures saved. Once any historic building is torn down, it’s not coming back. Further, the concentration of different styles of early American architectural in this neighborhood does seem unique compared to the usual mix of original cottages and multi-million dollar new second-home construction that line most Cape Cod towns. To raise awareness of those oblivious passerbys, plans are underway to add subtle features throughout the neighborhood such as signage and antique-like lanterns to the street lighting, more in line with the area’s history. The visual appeal will likely turn some heads.
Someone recently wrote in a letter-to-the editor, “we save buildings because they remind us of the past, of the community we wish to maintain, and sometimes because of their architectural beauty.” All of the above could be said about Captain’s Row in West Harwich. But eventually demolition delays end, owners sell, and community needs change.
Captain Gus Crowell House, West Harwich. Photo Credit: Jeff Shaw.
Can preserving the past co-exist with encouraging economic development and increasing employment opportunities?
The award-winning chowder of Captain Parker’s Pub. A must-try. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: With daylight savings time having finally arrived, the days are becoming shorter, darker and colder. The “winter is coming” trifecta. Just going outside becomes a chore, with frosty mornings, gray skies and early darkness . One way to fight “hibernation feelings” is to make plans to go out to eat (we can still pack on hibernation calories!); breakfast, lunch or dinner with any and everyone you can tolerate for an hour. Kidding aside, I suggest making dining plans at the place “we’ve been meaning to try,” but keep passing by (like that rhyme?). The cold weather months are also prime opportunities to dust off family soup and hearty stew recipes that fill the kitchen air with delicious scents. A solid combination of “places I’ve been meaning to try” and “hearty soups” is located along bustling Route 28 in Yarmouth in the middle of mini golf country. Look no further than Captain Parker’s Pub!
Award-winning Chowder at Captain Parker’s Pub
In this instance, advertising worked. I cannot recall if it was reading weekly editions of the Cape Cod Chronicle, daily e-news from the Cape Cod Times, listening to Ocean 104.7 or combing through a Cape Cod Guide book, but I learned about award-winning chowder at some pub named after a Captain in Yarmouth. Like many people, I love New England clam chowder. Thick and creamy; a balance of clams and potatoes, and maybe a dash of peppercorn to give it a kick. I’m so particular about chowder, a note exists on my iPhone dedicated to a list of restaurants (only a handful) where it reads, MUST ORDER CHOWDER. Captain Parker’s Pub was recently added to the list.
The front and side door of Captain Parker’s Pub. The outdoor deck is on the top right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While the seed of checking out Captain Parker’s Pub was planted in my head, only a passing thought of “if I’m in the area, I’ll try to stop by,” was the plan to get there. Fortunately, the 2019 Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters cruised right through the heart of Yarmouth along Route 28 and the restaurant was just a few hundred feet away from our next destination, Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf. On that bright, sunny, warm birthday Friday, and in the midst of a mini golf bonanza, the crew descended upon Captain Parker’s Pub.
Presumably a crowd favorite, the patch of the Springfield, Vermont Police Department mounted to the ceiling. Photo credit Jeff Shaw.
For over 30 years, Captain Parker’s Pub has served award-winning clam chowder overlooking Parker’s River. The restaurant building is enormous, with two expansive bar areas and plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. The restaurant has and promotes a local, fun feel, with the ceiling rafters lined with patches of fire and police departments from around the world – over 5,000 to be “exact.”
Chowder prestige from some of the regions and nations best foodies. Photo Credit: Captain Parker’s Pub.
Upon glancing at the menu, it became abundantly clear that Captain Parker’s Pub is serious about their chowder. The menu reads, “World Famous, Thick and Creamy, Triple Crown Clam Chowder.” [You have my attention.] Below that introduction were the prices for a cup or a bowl; but further down is where it gets big time. There are quarts to go, and quarts of base to go. And the ultimate delicious surprise, they offer bread bowls for all soups! Somehow, I missed that and my bowl came out before I could switch to the higher caloric option. It is more common to see bread bowls on restaurant menus near ski resorts than local restaurants on Cape Cod. Big time indeed.
The top of the menu. How did I miss the Bread Bowl option?!? Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
That first spoonful was better than advertised, with a bounty of fresh clams drowning in the steaming thick and creamy chowder. The potatoes were diced the same size as the clams. It was delicious and exceeded expectations. That should come as no surprise as Captain Parker’s Pub has participated in the Cape Cod Chowder Festival, Newport Chowder Cook Off, and the Boston Chowder Festival accumulating 14 first place trophies in the process. The restaurant and chowder have been featured in four Food Network programs including Rachel Ray’s 40 Dollars a Day. Okay okay, we get it, BIG time!
The family friendly restaurant is open year round, with plenty of big screen TVs to watch “the game” and some entertaining bartenders who make it hard to leave.
What’s your favorite meal at Captain Parker’s Pub?
Casual elegance is defined at The Beacon Room in Orleans.
Author’s Note: “We haven’t been there in a while.” Those unmemorable words were uttered one Sunday around 7:00 p.m., and a little after 8:00 p.m., a memorable dining experience was had by all. While most people look forward to, if not seek out opportunities to go out to eat (hey, it’s one less meal to prepare yourself), I’m in it to play the game, “will the meal exceed expectations.” Don’t get me wrong, like many people, I also have ‘go-to’ dishes at favorite restaurants that rarely disappoint. But with so many dining options available, I now order anything but “the usual. I wouldn’t call ordering a menu item you’ve never had a high risk, high reward decision, but when a meal truly exceeds expectations, it stays with you and it’s hard not to spread the love. Enter The Beacon Room.
Tucked away on a quiet road off Route 6A, The Beacon Room is open year round for lunch and dinner.
There’s Always Room (for surf and turf) at The Beacon Room
The Beacon Room, 23 West Road, Orleans, is a “casual, yet elegant restaurant,” set in a cozy former cottage, tucked away on a quiet road off Route 6A. By casual, most patrons are sporting shorts, sandals or sundresses; by elegant, when seated you are greeted by a fresh pressed white tablecloth, water glasses already filled and custom wine glasses hoping to be filled. The open dining room ceiling features exposed wooden rafters and a three-sided wrap-around bar, that provides a casual tavern vibe. In recent years, the outdoor space was expanded to offer a full service bar and a half dozen tables.
The former cottage is not an open dining room complete with wrap-around bar.
For dinner, The Beacon Room menu includes classic dishes, ranging from seafood fa diavolo, pan seared sole, chicken parmigiana, and New York strip steak, to name a few. The kitchen staff also ventures into the creative realm, with such tempting entrees like lobster croissant, roasted maple leaf 1/2 duck and veal short rib. But the game changer can only be found on the list of specials, none other than the lobster tail and filet surf and turf. Kick that main entree off with the gorgonzola, walnut and sun-dried cranberry salad and you are in for a treat. Even before that, opt for a martini to double-down on the elegance factor.
The beautiful lobster tail and filet mignon “surf and turf” special.
The lunch menu offers a variety of classic seafood entrees and sandwiches, the latter including a choice of potato salad, mixed greens or french fries. The restaurant also happens to be located a short walk from Hog Island Brewery, a popular local craft brewery with a large beer hall full of games such as billiards, foosball, ping pong, and shuffleboard. Not into breweries? The Beacon Room is a five minute drive to Eldridge Park, home of the Orleans Firebirds, one of ten teams in the Cape Cod Baseball League and a ten minute drive to Nauset Beach. The Cape Cod Rail Trail is also a three minute drive away.
The outdoor patio is great for a cocktail before, during or after dinner.
The Beacon Room is easily a top 5 favorite restaurant on Cape Cod. If you need another opinion, the Cape Cod Times recently wrote “[The Beacon Room in Orleans] serves up exceptional food..comfortable and casual elegance…the food is freshly made with top-quality ingredients.” The Beacon Room is open year round, seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Pro tip: while they do not take reservations, they do offer a call ahead waiting list, which usually works out for parties of four or less.
