Golf Courses on Cape Cod

Last day of the 2018 Chewing Cup, a 3-Day Ryder Cup Style tournament, Emerald Lake Golf Club, FL.

Authors Note: With spring starting to break through the crisp grey mornings, I find myself getting ready for the Chewning Cup, my annual golf trip down south or out west. Stemming from a best buddies’ bachelor party in Charleston, I made some new best buddies during our rounds of golf, with one lobbying me hard to join the annual golf trip, happening in Fort Lauderdale the following spring. The Chewning Cup is no regular, packaged, run-of-the-mill golf tournament. This is a 3-day Ryder Cup-style, team best ball format, complete with longest drive, closest to the pin, putting contests and a comical amount of side bets and gambling in between rounds with cards, “pong,” shuffleboard, and billiards. (The rental house usually sleeps 16+ and as expected, has lots of toys on the property.) Two teams face-off, much like the United States versus Europe -for bragging rights and of course, some cash. Players wear different color shirts on each day to signify what group they are playing in since there are always a few freshman in the group. This year 22 golfers are participating. There is even practice round on “arrival day”/Thursday; so for the first time in my life, I’m scheduled to play 72 holes of golf in 4 days…and I have yet to swing a club!

You may be wondering where I am headed, since I have not yet mentioned it? The destination is Scottsdale, Arizona, which conveniently will allow me visit another State Capitol and also catch a Diamondbacks game. Phoenix will give me 23 U.S. Capitols and the DBacks game will give me 11 ballparks visited. Saving the best for last, Team Captain Matt and I are on the same flight outs, so my quiet foam dice will allow us to get a few solid games of Yahtzee on the plane. Those rolls may actually be the first side bets of the trip. Wish me luck.

Cape Cod is the Golf Coast!

As the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce states, “Cape Cod truly is “The Golf Coast!”  It is no secret that this sandy peninsula is the top golf destination in the Northeast.” While that could be perceived as a stretch, I tend to agree. I’ve played golf in all four parts of the Cape, most of the popular courses and even private country clubs. There are two dozen public courses and another 12+ private country clubs across Cape Cod, with a higher concentration in the Mid and Upper Cape, though some of the oldest and most scenic courses lay on the Outer and Lower Cape. Below is an overview of the courses I’ve played in geographical order, with a short description and pricing (subject to change). Is Cape Cod the Golf Coast? You decide. Drive for show, putt for dough!

Outer Cape

Chequesset Yacht & Country Club, 680 Chequesset Neck Road, Wellfleet, 9-holes, $35 ($55 for 18-play the course twice). Tee times can be booked in advance.
Chequesset Yacht & Country Club is a semi-private club located in the fishing village of Wellfleet (on the Cape Cod Bay side). While the course’s official name has the “Yacht and Country Club” moniker, the membership is much more laid back. On the website, they kid that they don’t even have yachts, they have small boats and kayaks, plus their golf course is open to the public. For a mesmerizing view, take a seat on the bench in front of the pro shop, facing away from the golf course for a picturesque view of Cape Cod Bay.. My first time playing CYCC had two notable occurrences. First, I re-connected with Jim Knowles, the pro (formerly of the PGA Tour and Cranberry Valley Country Club), wearing his can’t-be-missed-American flag shirt and matching shirts. It must have been around July 4th. Second, in a bitter back-and-forth match play with frenemy Matt, it all came down to Hole 9. I managed to drive my ball straight, but not far, right in front of some standing water/ground under repair. Miraculously, my second shot took off like a bat out of hell (think I clubbed up 2-3 clubs to compensate for the soaked grass) and the ball headed to the flag, hit the green and stuck. The green was also damp. My buddy was able to get onto the green in 3, which set me up for a 20-foot birdie putt with a down hill break for the win. Let the record show, I nailed it and he bought the beers.

Highland Links Golf Course, 10 Highland Light Road, North Truro, 9-holes, $35 ($65 for 18-play the course twice). Tee times can be booked in advance
Founded in 1892, Highland Links is Cape Cod’s oldest golf course. The course is naturally stunning, perched along windswept bluffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, with Highland Lighthouse always within view. More significant than its age is Highland’s heritage. Deep natural rough, Scotch broom, heath, non irrigated open fairways, and spectacular ocean views keep the course a genuine links, close to the Scottish tradition. Years back, an ocean hotel and cottage resort lined the property, which attracted a steady stream of professional and casual golfers. In the 1960’s, when Congress approved President Kennedy’s Cape Cod National Seashore Act, Highland Links became Federal property and is currently leased to Johnson Golf Management. Accuracy is an important skill set when playing Highlands. On  a breezy day, you may need one ball per hole!

The first hole on the Port Course at The Captain’s.

Lower Cape
The Captain’s Golf Course, 1000 Freeman’s Way, Brewster, 36 holes, $77 (multiple discounts for time of year, time of day, day of the week, age, etc.). Tee times available (can be booked any time!)
The Captain’s is my go-to these days. There are so many discounts that we always seem to find a great deal and are still able to have a full day at the beach or do whatever with the rest of the family. This place is massive, with two 18-hole courses, appropriately named the Starboard and the Port Courses. In my (humble) experience, the Port course is the scoring course and the Starboard course is the more challenging layout. I say this mainly because the last time I played the Port Course, my scorecard was -1 after the first five holes (Par, Bogie, Birdie, Birdie, Par…and then I got a snowman (or three) to round out what should have been a record-setting front 9. Alas, golf is a cruel game, that for some reason, I enjoy tremendously. In terms of amenities, The Captain’s has a large pro shop, above average restaurant and multiple putting greens. My spiritual golf guide/mentor, Pete and I sometimes drive to the course before dinner just to have a putting competition on the green in front of the clubhouse. The only drawback to The Captain’s is that the driving range is down the street and you are NOT allowed to take carts since there is not cart path. Plan ahead if you want to hit the range before teeing off.

My brother Mike and I on Hole #6 at Chatham Seaside Links, circa 1992. Notice my brother’s original Chatham A’s cap!

Chatham Seaside Links, 209 Seaview Street, Chatham, 9 holes, $20 ($31 for 18 holes-play the course twice). No tee times, first-come, first-serve.
Ahh, where it all started for me, summer, beach and golfing on Cape Cod. The second oldest golf course on Cape Cod (1895), this quaint 9-hole golf course is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, elegant homes walking distance to downtown Chatham and the one and only, Chatham Bars Inn. In fact, the golf course use to be owned and operated by the Chatham Bars Inn, but now it is run by the Town of Chatham. The charming part about this course is that the first five holes play short (the first hole, a Par 4, playing 286 yards downhill is reachable off the tee) with two par 3s. However, there is not a whole lot of room for error on those first five, given the deep woods and private property lines off the cart path. The back four, however, are wide-open, links-style fairways with ocean breezes and the peek-a-boo view of the ocean from the seventh and ninth hole tee boxes. I recorded my first birdie on Hole #8 a long time ago. I missed a maybe-hole-in-one by 4 feet on Hole #3 not too long ago.

Cranberry Valley Golf Course, 183 Oak Street, Harwich, 18 holes, $74 (some discounts for weekday, twilight, etc). Tee times available.
I bought my first set of driver covers at Cranberry Valley. Knowing myself, I probably did this to commemorate the first time completing 18-holes as the scorecard did not satisfy remembering the occasion. While I do not play Cranberry Valley regularly despite it’s close proximity to Chatham, I recall it being a relatively tight, tree-lined course with plenty of sand traps and other man-made obstacles to hold your score hostage. A not-so-noticeable perk is that the driving range is located very close to the first tee. Recently, the popular Hot Stove Saloon in Harwichport expanded their reach by agreeing to operate the snack shack at the course. I should probably go back this season and see how good my memory is.

The Bogey Brothers enjoying the view from Hole #6, Eastward Ho! Country Club.

Eastward Ho! Country Club (private), 325 Fox Hill Road, Chatham, 18 holes, ($100+, cart included). Make a friend or two to get a tee time.
To say this golf course is stunning, is an understatement. Hold that thought. My “bogey brother” Dan is a member, and almost every summer since he’s joined, we’ve been able to play. Before he joined the Ho!, Chatham Seaside Links was our home course and we must have played it every weekend in the summer since becoming adults. Back to the Ho!. Most of the front and back holes have views of Pleasant Bay, with a few even having tee boxes or greens mere steps from the water. The ridge line on Hole #6 is looks like a ski hill and the tee box from Hole #7 and Hole #15 (if memory serves me), make you do a triple take. Only Holes 1 and 2 have an “okay” view. Dan’s father, Dr. William Healy, actually wrote a book about the history of the course including the original design, membership and competitions that is a delight to flip through. (He’s gone on to be hired to write similar style books about other golf courses on the Cape and in his hometown of Concord.) 

My favorite history about Eastward Ho!, however, is a little different and entirely based on my experience. For three consecutive years (2014-2016), Dan and I played a simple match play during our annual outing. Our abilities are about even, with him edging me on driving distance, getting out of trouble (bunkers, deep rough) and overall fundamentals with me having him slightly on accuracy and putting. Buying the first round in the Clubhouse afterward is always on the line, not to mention the coy smile of bragging rights. We seem to trade holes and it always comes down to the fabled 9th, or 18th hole, to determine the winner. Well, I’m happy to report coming out on top, having collected the scorecards from those three rounds to prove it. In 2017 we did not play due to availability and in 2018, we did a team match play with him and his cousin paired with me and another buddy. For a competitive pair that we are, owning those scorecards puts a smile on my face every time I think about it.

The high school crew Pete, Joe and Bryan pose before 18 holes at Harwich Port.

Harwich Port Golf Club, Harwichport, 51 South Street, 9 holes, $25 ($35 for 18-play the course twice). No tee times, first-come, first-serveNote: Cash only!
The most recent time I played Harwich Port Golf Club was with my buddy Brian who was vacationing for the week in town. Not only is he not a golf, he didn’t have his own clubs, and for some reason, thought I was bringing an extra set for him. This critical information was not communicated clearly as my text messages proved, though we did speak on the phone the night before which he claimed was the time he asked for the extra set. We both realized the problem when on double-check with the starter. My “phone-a-friend” was to none other than Bob Shaw, my pop, who promptly dropped what he was doing in the yard, grabbed the cobweb covered bag, and flew to the course. Pop arrived when our names were being called. Brian promptly shanked his tee shot into the road. Despite having a loyal following and seemingly packed by tourists hoping to squeeze in 9 before beach time, the pace of play moves. The course is not long as it crosses Forest Street twice. The putting green was also large and in good shape considering the volume of players.

Mid Cape
Bass River Golf Course, 62 Highbank Road, South Yarmouth, 18 holes, $73 (discounts based on time of day). Tee times can be booked for anytime!
Unfortunately, my one and only time playing Bass River was during aeration, with the plugs littering the fairway and the putting surface taking the form of an off-road trail for my ball. But, it was a beautiful fall foliage kind of day and I completed 18 holes in less than 3 hours. The staff was very friendly considering the condition of the course and I would certainly give the course another go earlier in the season. 

Bayberry Hills Golf Course, 635 West Yarmouth Road, West Yarmouth, 27 holes, $83 (discounts based on time of day). Tee times can be booked for anytime! For the record, the Yarmouth Golf logo was the inspiration for the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. Therefore, I felt obligated to play following my colossal defeat at Ocean’s Edge in Orleans. Bayberry Hills features 3 nine-hole courses, patriotically named, the Red, White and Blue courses. I chose the Blue course, a traditional, wide-open links course with ample tall grass, and not a soul to be found on this late September Sunday. I also scored some awesome discounts on two golf shirts, one of which, a Ping “Sunday red,” which I will be sporting in Arizona in less than a week. I have not played the other courses yet, but judging from the scorecard, they are slightly more difficult based on yardage. I will definitely get back to West Yarmouth to play the other courses this summer — sporting my Sunday red.

Upper Cape
Sandwich Hollows Golf Club, East Sandwich, 1 Round Hill Road, 18 holes, $55 with cart. Tee times booked up to 3 weeks in advance. Because there are so many good golf courses in the Lower Cape, I almost never travel past the mid Cape to golf. However, years back on my way to Chatham, I stopped at Sandwich Hollows for a quick 9 holes before a late dinner. While there are a few “peek-a-boo” views of Cape Cod Bay, the majority of the course is tucked away in dense woods, perfect for losing a ball – or five – on one hole – number 4 if my memory serves. The course proudly touts that it “invokes images of the quiet solitude of great golf in Vermont or New Hampshire,” because each holes is essentially isolated from the others. This is not your wide-open links course. While Sandwich Hollows may be missing the Green and White Mountains or our northern states, I’ll take the salty air of Cape Cod Bay any day. I played bogey golf, the equivalent of the professionals par golf, so a part of me just wants to retire this course and let that scorecard stand.

What are your favorite golf courses to play on Cape Cod?

TT: Former Ridgevale Restaurant

The Ridgevale Restaurant hosts the Chatham Rotary Club’s Annual Scallop Festival in 1986.

Author’s Note: Every time I drive up Ridgevale Road toward Route 28, barring right where the road splits, I cannot help but remember the Ridgevale Restaurant.  I was a teenager when the restaurant finally closed (20 years ago), and only have a few memories of the place – the patio on the right side of the building nudged you sit outside in the warm, salty air. The simple oddity that this large restaurant was located in a stretch of real estate largely residential. Of course, the vintage white 1920s era Model A Ford was a head turner every time one passed the parking lot.

As with anything and everything, time marches on and things change – the restaurant industry is a great example. Customers’ taste change, new restaurants constantly sprout up, and economic conditions dictate how often and how much people “go out” to eat. Owners and kitchen teams whose personality, skill and focus on the customer experience often dictates who stays and who goes. Though, sometimes even nature also has a say (look no further than former Liam’s Restaurant at Nauset Beach) in what lasts. Either way, I’m challenging myself to not take anything for granted and enjoy the many culinary pleasures offered on the Cape.

The Ridgevale Restaurant, West Chatham
For 40 years, the Ridgevale Restaurant served breakfast, lunch and dinner daily in a quaint residential stretch of West Chatham. The restaurant was known for hamburgers, fried clam plates, lobster dinners and Clams Zuppa, one of the Italian and Portuguese specialties. 

The regular ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle, circa 1960s.

The story goes, W. Fred Gilmartin owned the Ridgevale Motel located directly across the street, next to Ridgevale Road, from the land the restaurant would eventually be built. In 1963, Gilmartin built the restaurant with excess lumber from the motel and opened later that year for what he only envisioned as a hamburger stand. At the beginning, a “bottomless” cup of coffee would cost you a $0.10; the “businessmen’s lunch,” would cost one $0.99.

The restaurant was considerably larger than originally envisioned, the space divided almost equally between indoor dining room and outdoor patio. The tables were large and spacious with brightly colored deck chairs on the patio for a festive yet casual feel. Outdoor seating on the Cape is always at a premium and the patio was a popular place to feel the warm salty breeze while enjoying a meal.

Over the years, the Ridgevale Restaurant was at the center of intense discussions around such issues as banning smoking in restaurants, keeping liquor licenses while closed for the season, increased liquor license fees, landfill violations, competition for liquor licenses and the occasional breaking and entering. 

The Chatham Rotary Club held their annual Scallop Festival at the Ridgevale Restaurant from 1986-1988.

It also supported the community by hosting the Chatham Rotary Club’s Annual Scallop Festival, the Chatham High School Band’s “Fish and Chips Festival,” and contributing towards the Fisherman’s Memorial at the Chatham Fish Pier. The Gilmartin’s even sold Christmas Trees during the holidays.  

Perhaps an unofficial symbol of entering West Chatham, the restaurant could Perhaps an unofficial symbol of entering West Chatham, the restaurant could be immediately recognized by its bright, white “symbol,” a vintage 1929 Model A Ford parked near the front door. That beautiful vintage automobile signaled that the restaurant was open for the summer.  

The 1999 real estate listing for the Ridgevale Restaurant.

In the 1990s, son Tom Gilmartin, took over the business before the decision was made to close and sell. Today, a 10-unit condominium complex, Ridgevale Cove, stands where the Ridgevale Restaurant and 1929 Model A Ford once stood. 

Coffee on Cape Cod

A chilly winter morning along the shores of Ridgevale Beach, Chatham.

Author’s Note: My father-in-law prominently features a comical coffee mug in his kitchen. It states, “No Coffee, No Workee.” Similarly, my own father writes, “Up, Coffee” on his daily “to do” list. While both of these seasoned coffee drinkers’ habits are no different than even mine, those funny symbols and practices speaks to the importance of the daily java jolt. I did not start drinking coffee regularly until after college, when the whole career-thing started. Sure, I’d have some from time to time on late nights studying at the library or to break-up an afternoon, but it was not part of anything that resembled a daily routine. Oh my, how that has changed. Fast forward many years later, and I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a coffee snob. The comical sign, “Life’s to short for bad [fill in the blank, coffee, wine, etc] comes to mind. There is nothing worse than a bad cup of coffee. Your stuck with it. To avoid such situations, I keep a mental list of diners, cafes and breakfast spots with at least decent coffee and I readily offer them as options when deciding if and where to go out for breakfast. All of this insanity somewhat explains why the Starbucks and locally owned cafes/coffee shops have thrived, with people literally spending their days (well, doing work thanks to wifi and cozy seating) and paychecks there.

My morning two-cups usually sustain me for the day. Occasionally, a post lunch or pre-long drive jolt is a nice surprise, if not necessity. I prefer the medium to dark roast, which I take black because, as I’ve learned, quality coffee doesn’t need fillers (which started thanks to my buddy Connor insulting me every time I put sugar and milk to improve the taste of terrible diner coffee). I also rotate where I go – especially on Cape Cod as there are plenty of good coffee stops. Are you up for a java journey across the Cape?

Cape Cod is known for many things – stunning beaches, fresh seafood, charming cottages, soft serve ice cream, even mini golf, to name a few – but one often overlooked feature is the coffee. There are a ton of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and deli’s to find an above average, if not great, cup of coffee. While this list is not comprehensive of every Cape town, I included at least one spot in all four Cape Cod regions.

The chicken salad wrap comes with a dill pickle and bag of chips.

Beth’s Bakery & Cafe. Sandwich
 Located on Jarvis Street in downtown Sandwich, Beth’s Bakery & Cafe is a fast-moving, yet delightfully bright danish and sandwich spot with a mix of indoor and outdoor seating. Beth’s features freshly baked goods below the counter, and a variety of sandwiches on the menu board above the register. There is a self-serve coffee station with a light roast, dark roast and decaf, which lends itself nicely to re-fills or a “hot top-off”. A dark roast paired well with my chicken salad wrap, which was quickly consumed on the outdoor patio.

Stop by on Sunday mornings in the summer to check out the classic/vintage car club.

Chatham Cookware Bakery, Chatham (downtown)
Located on Main Street, smack in the middle of downtown Chatham, Chatham Cookware Cafe is a landmark in its own right. Known for its unofficial hosting of the vintage/classic car club of Chatham every Sunday morning in season, locals and visitors alike flock to Cookware to buy a coffee, thus, having an excuse to hang out with the cars. The cafe has a mix of front porch (bench) seating, tables inside as well as ample seating out back and on the side of the building. The self-serve coffee bar, featuring at least six different roasts, some of which are Beanstock (roasted locally in Wellfleet) is located between the deli, gift shelf and the register. I’ve tried at least 6 roasts, and the Black Fish Creek Blend (dark roast) is the tastiest. “Big and full-bodied with dark chocolate notes in the front and finishing with red berry and melon,” yum. Winter note: Cookware is closed until May, 2019, for remodeling.

The patio furniture outside Chatham Perk will return around Memorial Day weekend.

Chatham Perk, North Chatham
 A name play on “Central Perk” from the sitcom “Friends,” this diamond in the rough is located in North Chatham in the same plaza as the old Northport Restaurant (you probably don’t know what that is unless you’ve lived on the Cape for a long time). There is a small outdoor patio with umbrellas that catch the morning sun, with a mix of bartop and table seating inside facing the bay windows. They feature “Grab and Go” breakfast sandwiches and also make lunch sandwiches to go all day. A self-serve coffee station features 8 roasts by Cape Cod Coffee Roasters. I always go with the unbelievably tasty Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, a dark roast that has a ton of sweet notes. Of the freshly baked breads and muffins, their Perk Donut, which comes in sizes of small and large, is a must-try. You probably only need a small unless you are sharing. They also use bagels from a supplier in New York, so you can taste the quality, not to mention they are generous with the cream cheese smear. The smoothie bar is another option, especially in the dog days of summer. The staff, particularly Sean, is always friendly and moves quickly. Winter note: Perk is closed on Sundays in the off-season.

An old picture of Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, featuring their prominent ‘shark in the bush.’

Chatham Village Bakery Cafe, Chatham
 Now located on Crowell Road (formerly located downtown where JoMama’s Bagels resides) due to a dispute with a greedy landlord, the Village Bakery is tucked away off the main drag but is worth a super short detour. In the summer, the line stretches out the door. Unlike other bakeries on this list, Village Bakery freshly bakes an assortment of donuts (simple Cinnamon sugar is one of my favorite ways to start the morning). They also feature bagels, hot egg sandwiches, deli sandwiches and even have a few gluten-free baked goods. Their self-serve coffee counter features 8 roasts, most of which by the Art of Roasting. Oddly enough, like Perk, Village Bakery also features an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, but it tastes completely different than the roast at Perk. I cannot decide which one I like better. Winter note: Village Bakery is on vacation until February 25, 2019.

A throwback picture of Ellen and I posing with Mr. Optimist Cafe.

Optimist Cafe, Yarmouth
 There may not be a better morning drive than slowly making your way west along Route 6A, the Old Kings Highway, on the Bay side of Cape Cod. Surrounded by old Sea Captain’s home, antique shops, art galleries and marsh and wetlands, this quiet stretch of road is one of the most scenic on Cape Cod (Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet is stunning). At some point, you will pass by a Yellow gingerbread house with some funky artwork outside; you’ve arrived at the Optimist Cafe. If there was a logo or mascot for this website, the Optimist Cafe would be it. The sit-down restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and a pseudo-high tea. The interior is spacious, elegant and bright. The menu is abundant, yet focused on essential breakfast and lunch favorites. The coffee is the best for a sit-down restaurant (on or off the Cape). It’s a Douwe-Egbert medium roast that is brewed in a contraption that looks like a time machine. The coffee is so good that I will deprive myself of food and drink, so I can indulge with a third or fourth cup and a table pancake. Relax, the cups are on the small side. But that’s all part of it, you are in no rush and the atmosphere encourages diners to take your time and savor the flavors. Winter note: they’ve been known to take a month off in the winter so just check their off-season hours so you don’t get surprised (scroll down to “food”).

The “best coffee ever,” after Leg 3 of Ragnar Cape Cod in 2014. In the background, teammate Brian (in blue) fighting through his final miles.

Savory & the Sweet Escape, Truro
It’s ironic that the smallest Cape town by population has one of the better coffee stops. Situated along busy Route 6, the “Heart and Soul of Truro” restaurant is half bakery, half pub, with cupcakes, egg sandwiches, pastries, lattes on one hand, and pizzas, grinders, burgers, and salads on the other. The brewed coffee is locally roasted Beanstock with a light, dark, decaf and two flavor roasts. My introduction to Savory was on the last leg (pun intended) of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod 2014 and was able to snap a picture of myself drinking the best cup of coffee ever (consider, my physical state of having run 21 miles, over a 24-hour-ish period, with 2-hours of sleep) with my buddy, Brian, in the background churning away his last few miles on a chilly May morning. While the “best coffee ever thought” may have been a stretch considering my delirium, it was a memorable moment, and I have the picture to prove it!

The logo says it all. Party time!

Wired Puppy, Provincetown
At the end of the peninsula, this second location to the cafe on Newberry Street in Boston, resides on the quieter stretch of Commercial Street in P-Town. The atmosphere is hopping, the colors are vibrant and the coffee is hot and delicious. Each cup of coffee is certified organic and fair-trade which the baristas will happily tell you about if you ask. They don’t bother asking if you “need room” because the coffee is brimming with flavors of dark chocolate, caramel, toffee, and a hint of fruit, why drown that out? The coffee shop also has a bartop with high-top stools facing the window, a people-watchers dream.

What is your favorite coffee stop on Cape Cod?

A Winter Survival Guide for Cape Cod

The mountain vistas on Route 40 West from Winter Park, CO, to Steamboat Springs, CO.

Author’s Note: With the holidays now behind us, the long, cold, dark months of January and February are beginning to set in. The temperature today is a mere 16 degrees. Brrr. My inner skier is perfectly okay with this as long as it snows in the mountains (or snow is being made) but the civilian who drives to work, takes the dog out and occasionally runs is not loving the teeth-chattering and bone-chilling cold. For us, fortunately, there is a silver lining. In our case, my wife and I will be embarking on our (now 5th) Annual Ski Trip to Colorado to visit family and friends. This year’s itinerary includes a day trip to Cheyenne, Wyoming (to visit my 20th State Capitol), but more importantly, 3 days of skiing at Winter Park, 1 day at Copper and 3 days at Aspen. Thank you Ikon Base Pass. We may also swing by the Livestock Show in Denver for a firsthand view of the legendary sport (nay, art) of Mutton Busting. So, as Dean Martin sang a long time ago, “Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!”

The Filing Station Breakfast Sandwich is all you need to get the day started on the right foot!

Go Out to Breakfast. It has been said that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I tend to agree (as you will see above and below). If the restaurant is not too busy and you are in no rush, grab a newspaper, ask for a table in the corner away from the door and keep the coffee re-fills coming. There are no shortage of breakfast spots – or diners – on Cape Cod, even in the winter months, though a few do close temporarily. Everyone needs to re-charge their batteries. Unlike the summer, when it’s all “grab-and-go,” settle in for your morning meal without the pressure of the summer rush. The wait staff is usually more chatty than the busy months, so get to know your neighbors if you don’t already.

If you like Double IPAs, be on the look-out for the rarely released Chicken & Hens DIPA.

Find a Brewery Tour. The craft beer phenomenon has hit Cape Cod with the recent openings of Barnstable Brewing in Hyannis, and soon to be opening Aquatic Brewing in Falmouth. With Devil’s Purse, Hog Island, Cape Cod Beer and Cisco on Nantucket already established, almost any craft beer needs can go (growler) filled (pun intended). Most breweries can their beer and offer growler(s) fills for seasonal beers with limited availability.

Go to the Movies. While going to the movies is not an activity unique to winter, it is certainly a reasonable one. Despite the trend of movie theaters closing due to on demand web streamlining, some local theaters have survived despite the changing culture. Chatham’s Orpheum Theater is a good example of a small cinema that also offers a restaurant, bar, and concessions. As you enter the main lobby, a powerful wall mural hits you smack in the face featuring familiar faces of Hollywood lore.

Clark W. Griswold gets a little emotional watching the home videos.

Dust off those home movies and Polaroids. No one wants to admit it, but we all have artifacts of the past—home movies, Polaroid pictures and even slide decks. Remember the scene in National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation when Clark gets stuck in the attic and to kill time awaiting rescue, plugs in the slide projector? We all laughed, he cried, and we laughed again when “Dear Frances” opened the attic ceiling door. Why not replicate that joy and laughter? Just don’t get stuck in the attic.

A little paint, a few oyster shells and some scrap wood is all you need for a little art project.

Create Your Own Art.
Even if you don’t have youngsters around, there are tons of ideas for fun art projects to break-up any routine. For starters, a small paint and brush set is less than $20. Driftwood, dried pine cones and leaves make great bases and accent pieces. Not into painting, how about photography? Ever take a picture of a breathtaking sunset, waterfall or snowy winter morning? Well, order a 20 x 24 print, frame it and hang it on a wall. A few easy steps and you can relive that moment every day just walking down your hallway! Into jewelry? Craft stores such as Hattie D’s sell thin strips of leather, rubber and beads, which provide an easy way to make a necklace or bracelet. There are even YouTube videos that show viewers how to make knots that can be adjusted.

Check out public announcements for special forums, town meetings, classes and workshops.

Take a class. Admittedly, no one likes homework, but this isn’t that kind of class. Many stores, businesses and retailers offer free or complimentary classes. As an example, Black Eel Outfitters offered fly fishing lessons (dry land), Friends of the Cape Cod National Seashore runs a Winter Film Festival, libraries offer reading and writing groups, many of which are free. There are also special town meetings or community forums to stay informed on local issues. Of course, more formal classes are offered by the community colleges, town departments and libraries.

Our Christmas Day activity was assembling the Snowman Celebration. It is still not complete.

Play a board game or puzzle. Odds are you have an old board game or two (or ten), buried in a storage container or closet. Well, grab a flashlight and go find that board game that has not been played in a while. This way, everyone playing is on the same level. (I’m rotating between Clue, Life, Candyland and Chutes and Ladders.) Card games are also fun and there are a zillion YouTube videos (instructions) on how to play. If you have “table room” to spare, find a puzzle that has not be assembled in a while and dump the contents on the table. Set your expectations that the puzzle may not be completed that same day, but there’s nothing wrong with working on it for a few weeks, here and there. Pro tip: start with the edges!

The thick cut slices of country wheat bread at the Roadhouse is essentially an appetizer.

Go to a Pub.Centuries ago, the Public House (or Pub) was not just a place to drink beer, wine or spirits, but a unique social center that focused on community life in that village or neighborhood. Luring in tourists in-season nonwithstanding, pubs, taverns and bars still have a small part in that role on life on Cape Cod. Many pubs have live entertainment, trivia competitions and even karaoke most week day evenings. And if your a sports fan, there will probably be a game or two on the big screen. Some pubs also have a winter diner’s club card (to punch or stamp) to earn a free dinner. 

Create Liquid Goodness. Oddly enough, winter is the only time of year I drink hot chocolate. Weird, right? Well, why not go all out when making this silky sweet goodness. Pro tip: Use milk instead of water (obviously). Whip cream and marshmallows are highly recommended, while a little Bailey’s is optional (depending on the time of day I suppose). Another winter beverage that started as a family cold remedy is the Hot Toddy. While the basic ingredients are tea and whisky, it can be made slightly more respectable by adding honey and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Both options are good ways to reward yourself for shoveling snow off the driveway.

Volunteer. It has been said that volunteerism and philanthropy is one of the highest forms of citizenship. Local charities, nonprofits and other community organizations make ends meet because of dedicated volunteers, donors and Board of Directors. Whatever your passion; elevating arts and culture, improving youth literacy, ending hunger or preserving the environment, there is a nonprofit, foundation or community organization that shares that mission. Find it.

Take a hike. Whether you walk along the shore, dunes or trail, Cape Cod has a surprisingly large number (over 100) of marked hiking trails in every town. Hiking is not only great exercise, but a great way to see a different part of all Cape Cod towns. Of course, be sure to bundle up. As Patagonia says, there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear! 

Indeed, winters on Cape Cod can be long, but there are multiple ways to keep the dream of spring alive!

Holiday Strolls & Celebrations on Cape Cod

The view from the top of the ruins of Fort Barrington, Five Islands Village, Antigua.

Author’s Note: A continued Happy Holidays wish to all who are observing one of the 29 holidays that are celebrated by seven of the world’s major religions at this time of year! While it has been a busy 3+ weeks since Thanksgiving, we enjoyed the “happy stress” of hosting Thanksgiving Dinner, partaking in Chatham’s Christmas Stroll, getting off the grid during 9 days to Antigua (a small island in the Lesser Antilles for an overdue vacation) and joining friends on a last-minute ski trip to New Hampshire. A December to remember for sure. 

Apre ski at Loon Mountain to kick-off “snow season.”


As I’ve wrote about previously, I love the seasons and is a big reason why my wife and I have settled in the northeast. The greening of spring, followed by the heat of summer, fall foliage and of course, the much anticipated first snowfall of winter. However, a jolt of 80 degrees and sunshine in December as our trip to Antigua provided, did make me long for a reset to summer…until I strapped on my skis, scanned my Ikon pass, and hit Loon Mountain to open up my “snow season.” I instantly remembered why I love this time of year; the rush of carving a turn on a freshly groomed cruiser (too early in the season for powder), running into old friends in the life line and catching up on the chairlift and of course, all the laughs in the lodge during apre ski complete with apps and local craft drafts. Indeed, winter and the holidays are here, and I’m embracing it! And in a few months, that wonderful feeling of sand between your toes and a warm breeze on your face will be back on my mind.

Holiday Strolls and Celebrations on Cape Cod

The holiday picture from the Whit Tileston Bandstand in Chatham. No bunny hop today.


The weekend of December 7-8 marked Chatham’s Annual Christmas by the Sea Stroll celebration, a time when our family reunites in Chatham for this special holiday and community event. While this weekend event is the official stroll, featuring a tree lighting, breakfast with Santa, historic inn and museum tour, complimentary trolley rides complete with carolers through town, the weekend prior featured Santa’s arrival at the Chatham Fish Pier and a few weeks down the road, Chatham’s First Night will have the town celebration the arrival of the New Year. Indeed, there are a lot of celebratory events and happy people in Chatham in December. The special events are family friendly, but what I appreciate most are the simple things like, the thoughtfully decorated path through Kate Gould park leading to the decorated Chatham Bandstand, the candlelit homes along Stage Harbor Road, and of course, the quiet of walking along deserted beaches. The magic of the season is everywhere.

Morning walks on a deserted beach is one of our favorite activities.

Almost every Cape Cod town has their own holiday celebration/stroll, which are spread throughout mid-November through New Year’s Day (alas, Truro didn’t publicize anything this year), making it possible to celebrate the season multiple times in multiple towns. Local merchants, restaurants and town officials, from all communities have done a great job (whether planned or not) of offering a wide range of family-friendly activities, to historical and cultural events to romantic dinners and everything in between. However, a day on Cape Cod, in my case, Chatham, is not complete without a walk along Ridgevale Beach, no matter the weather.

Barker’s of Orleans has a lot of goodies for our four-legged family members.

As expected, we spent much of our time along Main Street, supporting a few of our favorite small businesses, restaurants and gift shops. My strategy for gift giving is to try and buy local as much as possible/practical by taking pictures of what I initially suspect someone will like, but give myself some time to explore other stores and think about the most thoughtful gift of a bunch of options. In our case, anything dog-related is generally a wiener (pun intended as our dachshund Hana can attest). While Chatham’s Paws & Claws are our favorite groomer, Barker’s in Orleans is a new favorite for treats and toys. 

Buy local.

My holiday survival strategy also includes ducking into my favorite chowder and beer stop, The Squire, to warm up while others continue on their stroll. This particular year, everyone decided to take a well deserved break and chasing the little ones into the game room. 

Regardless have how thirsty or hungry you may be, everyone’s welcome at The Squire!

While the weather never seems to cooperate with a picturesque snowy winter scene, the holiday spirit was in the air (literally, music was playing all around town) and we had a great time catching up, supporting local merchants and dining out. 

The annual “Seaview Street Self-ie” (after The Squire stop of course).

If you find yourself on the Cape this month, do find a holiday celebration to enjoy. There is plenty of spirit in the air!