Weird, Wonderful & Cutthroat World of Croquet

Antigua Galley Bay Croquet Club members, Kat, Jeff, Matt and Matt pose after a casually competitive evening croquet match.

Author’s Note: There are moments in life when you “re-discover something” and “it” makes an impression on you, maybe even changes your perspective. Those moments can come at any time and in many forms; say, experiencing the natural environment in a way removed from technology, noise and other people, hiking Mount Mansfield in the warm sunshine at the base only to find a cloud-covered, bitterly cold wind storm at the summit; literally stopping to smell the roses on a trail run, or just driving west on the highway catching the sun setting in the distance. Just the simple act of sipping coffee on the back deck on a bright summer morning, the only sounds are birds chirping and a lawn getting mowed in the distance. New perspectives certainly can result after traveling to a new place, immersing in another culture, language, foods and realizing those little things in life we often take for granted. It may also come from a conversation on an unexpected topic with a trusted friend or colleague. Point is, we are constantly discovering or re-discovering things that keep life interesting.

Well, to keep this seemingly deep philosophical dive entertaining, a recent “re-discovery” that brought me immense joy and a new perspective, was none other than a croquet set. Laugh all you want, but hear me out. Picture this: an off-the-beaten path all-inclusive beachfront resort set on the beautiful Caribbean island of Antigua; 80 degree days of sunshine, gently breaking waves always in view, an actual manicured lawn set-up for croquet and six competitive adults with brand-new wooden mallets to break-in. Did I mention the resort was all-inclusive? Sure, we needed to brush up on the rules we may have picked up as kids fooling around with the cheap (yet surprisingly durable) set from Bradlees that later became a dusty fixture in the garage. That same set has been restored and used regularly in the backyard, though the view is a bit different than on Antigua. It is also a little ironic that not just one, not just two but THREE different references to “croquet on Cape Cod” found its way into my reading list since that vacation. A 2011 Boston.com article backs up this new-found appreciation for a seemingly trivial activity, “the weird, wonderful – and absolutely cutthroat – world of competitive croquet.” Therefore, I give you, croquet on Cape Cod!

Ellen practicing in the morning sunshine a few days before her croquet singles tournament title.

Croquet 101

First, a little history. The origins of croquet date back between 150 and 600 years depending who you ask, though the game came from Europe. According to one source, croquet was imported from France to England by King Charles II in the 17th century, and has roots extending back to the 14th century in Europe. Others say croquet was invented in the British Isles in the mid-19th century. Not surprisingly, croquet has evolved over the years of tweaking by countries around the world. For our purposes, the history doesn’t really matter, I just want to share the existence of this growing sport that is making a comeback right here on Cape Cod.

Need a refresher on modern day croquet? I got you covered. American six wicket croquet is the most popular form of play from leisurely backyard BBQs to cutthroat club tournaments, say, on the island of Antigua in December 2018… This format has six iron wickets, one stake, four heavy, plastic balls weighing a standard one pound, each played by a player on opposing teams of two each (or four balls played by each of two opposing players). Feel free to amend the rules if you have more than four players or face a time crunch. For the more serious players, “Deadness” boards help keep track of play. Players use mallets sized about 36 inches for adults. The standard court is 105 by 84 feet (35 yards by 28 yards) but the court is scaled down when short grass (one quarter inch) is not available.  Like tennis, croquet tradition requires wearing white clothing. 

There is an official, national organization, United States Croquet Association (USCA), whose mission is to grow and govern the sport in America. It was organized in 1977 by Jack Osborn, and currently boasts 300 member clubs and 3,000 members, hosting “official” tournaments each year. Much of the sports growth is attributed to partnerships with golf courses (short cut, manicured grass), resorts (guest activities) and municipal parks (public recreation) that can maintain dedicated lawns for play. Due to costs and level of organization, not all croquet clubs are created equal or members of the USCA, though three out of the four below are members. Some clubs are an activity offered at a private club, others operate as an actual nonprofit organization, the rest, are regular gathering of enthusiasts. 

Looking for a place to play on Cape Cod? There are a few options.

The Cape Cod Chronicle’s June 6,2019 edition including a letter-to-the editor from the Chase Park Croquet Club about their relocation.

Chatham

Chase Park Croquet Club (formerly Pleasant Bay Croquet Club), is an established organization with over 35 members who play at all levels. They group changed their name after losing their home on the Pleasant Bay waterfront last year, as it sought to re-locate to Chase Park (hence Chase Park Croquet Club), where a closely manicured lawn for bocce is already in use. The group actually went before the town park and recreation commission – in traditional white attire – for official recognition and re-location of play and got it! The club is experienced in setting up croquet courts, teaching and will share a few thousand dollars worth of croquet equipment (wickets, balls, mallets, boundary markers, a deadness board, and a bench) at their new location. The club was even prepared to pay for weekly mowing of the lawn if called for. The Chase Park Croquet Club is open to anyone and welcomes new members. For more information, contact Diane Siptrom at chaseparkcroquet@gmail.com. 

Just like D-Day from Animal House, “Whereabouts unknown.”

Martha’s Vineyard

Edgartown Croquet Club (ECC), which was written about extensively in 2015, but has been elusive in terms of recent activities (though they are listed as “community partners” on a 2019 Boys and Girls Club webpage.) Still, in 2015 the Martha’s Vineyard Times covered the 2015 Edgartown Croquet Club tournament with much acclaim, “And the game they play is an exhausting combination of skill, timing, and strategy. Think chess on grass or billiards on the lawn. Last Saturday the four remaining teams in the ECC doubles tournament squared off in a round-robin format to determine the 2015 winner. Bill Elbow and Joan Collins won over Bill Blakesly and Susie Herr for the laurels, after eight hours of play.” The article went on to reference the club’s 25 active members and that it played matches on their home lawn near the Martha’s Vineyard Boys and Girls Club. If you happen to be on the Vineyard this summer, swing by the Boys and Girls Club to play! For more information, contact James Turner at jlturne@gmail.com. 

The iconic Westmoor Flag.

Nantucket  

The Westmoor Club, a private member club that offers everything from overnight stays, elegant dining, boating, lawn sports and wellness, on a picturesque seaside of Nantucket. There are a few membership categories (full member, associate member and winter membership options) to attract folks, but croquet is just one of many activities for members. I was particularly impressed with their description of croquet at the club, “Truly, the “Lord of Lawn Sports,” the intriguing and tactically challenging game of Croquet has earned a special place at Westmoor.  Located on the field of dreams, the croquet field is open seven days a week.  The Westmoor Club also hosts Croquet and Cocktails every Monday, in-season.” Croquet and cocktails, sounds like they know what they’re doing. For more information, contact Wayne Davies (508) 228-9494.

A weekly PrimeTime newspaper feature article about the rise of the Sandwich Croquet Club.

Sandwich

Sandwich Croquet Club, is an established club that is located at the Sandwich Hollows Golf Club. Arguably the most well organized (they have a Board of Directors) and active club (over two dozen members, detailed website) on the Cape and Islands, the Sandwich Croquet Club plays 6 wicket, 9 wicket and golf croquet weekly on Tuesdays (2-4pm), Thursdays (5-7pm), Saturdays (10am-12pm) and Sundays (3-5pm) from May to November. The agreement with Sandwich Hollows Golf Club includes maintaining four croquet lawns for play. The lawn is open to members to use whenever they want for practice; outside of scheduled play, tournaments and maintenance. The group also goes out to dinner after scheduled play at either the Clubhouse Restaurant or nearby restaurants.  For more information, contact Jean Lynch at jlynch8488@gmail.com.   

Anyone else eager to don on white attire and meet up on the lawn?

Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod

Boats tied up on Sundancer’s dock on Bass River in West Dennis.

Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you. 

While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.

With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…  

The view of the Sagamore Bridge and Cape Cod Canal from Herring Run Recreation Area, across the street from Seafood Shanty.

Bournedale
The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water. 

Boats listing near Chatham Fish Pier, down the road from the Chatham Bars Inn.

Chatham
The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home. 

Clancy’s Restaurant overlooking Swan River at dusk.

Dennis
Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.

The beach in front of the Beach Bar at the Ocean House.

Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!

Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)

The sign for Brax Landing along Route 28 is hard to miss!

Harwich
Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.

A round of local steamers at the Black Cat Tavern! (Sorry El!)

Hyannis
Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.

Unbeknownst to us, this was our last Liam’s family dinner on Nauset Beach. Threats of erosion cannot be overstated.

Orleans
Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.

The view from a picnic table in the “backyard” of the Canteen in P-Town.

Provincetown
The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.

Apparently I didn’t take any pictures while eating at the Bookstore & Restaurant, but I did park in the lot across from the Bookstore for the Wellfleet Oysterfest (and ran the 5K earlier).

Wellfleet
The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.

The crew at “our table” after a day on the beach. Also Pro Kadima & Kan Jam champs.

The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.

I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?

Hiking, Biking, Running & Walking Trails, Oh My!

Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors. 

Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!  

Popular Trails (The “Go To’s”)

The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.

Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.

The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.

Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses  (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects. 

Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.

Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride. 

Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.

Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.

The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.

Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected). 

“Tucked Away”

Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.

Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!

The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.

Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.

“Peace and Quiet”

A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.

Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.

Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.

Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).

One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.

Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.

I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth;  Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.   

TT: Nest of Eggs Mystery Solved (West Hartford, CT)

Author’s Note: Social media (Facebook to be exact) reminded me of a very special one-year anniversary: the day we discovered a nest of eggs in our backyard. This edition of “Throwback Thursday” (TT) commemorates an innocent Facebook post on the “Neighbors and Friends Facebook Group Page” that turned the town of West Hartford upside down for 4 days! Join me in a fun little trip down memory lane.

The mysterious nest of eggs in our backyard that turned a large CT town upside down.

“Life is so full of unpredictable beauty and strange surprises.” No truer words could describe the last few weeks in a backyard of West Hartford – and on social media. A few weeks ago, my wife and I came home to find (more later on why that word is important) a mysterious nest of six eggs in our backyard. Yes, we are the “WeHa Nest of Eggs” people. Following a long winter and various nor’easters (or lack thereof), a yard clean-up crew inadvertently cleared away brush that had been concealing the nest of eggs. As you could imagine, we were surprised and perplexed about the who, what, and when. 

While my wife and I are admittedly nature novices (we still enjoy reading those tree markings on walks along the reservoir), we were sure that this nest needed to be re-concealed to protect against predators and the elements as mama was nowhere to be found. Though, we also recalled a caution about human scents potentially driving away nesting mothers, so decided to get a second opinion from our neighbors who happened to be outside. They too were puzzled. The next logical step, of course, was to pose the question to a larger audience of neighbors, and the Neighbors and Friends of West Hartford Facebook group came to mind. We took a quick picture of the nest, posted it on the webpage and asked for feedback on egg type and whether or not to re-cover. This is the part where words matter.

Another egg! I am not a monster after all. Phew.

The next morning, I awoke to a text message from a friend and police officer in town that said “your WeHa egg post has more comments on it than the town budget article.”  And boy was he right. Within 24 hours, there were 190 comments ranging from guesses on the egg type, to humorous quips about preferring eggs “over easy”, ridiculous gifs of raptor eggs hatching, to serious comments about ensuring the nest was undisturbed (of course our intention). In my haste to post the picture and seek comments, I used the word “un-covered” instead of “found” when describing how the eggs were discovered, and some interpreted that to mean a careless invasion and disruption of the nest. Indeed, words matter and chose them carefully on social media. Fortunately, that afternoon, we came home to another egg (7), which confirmed that the nest was not disturbed and Mama returned. I immediately posted the good news (and picture) in the group thread and found an excited audience. 

Wait a minute; what’s that; an EIGHTH egg!?! Dear Haters, this is one healthy nest!

The following morning, it was Groundhogs’ day all over again. Another egg (8), and another picture post to the group thread. An indication that this event was not a total joke was the comment, “I am in love with this story. Please keep us updated.”  We now had an obligation to the community. The guesses continued to flow — and thank you Mayor Cantor for posting a comparison picture of similar looking eggs to help solve the puzzle. We also appreciated the multiple suggestions for an “egg cam” (live feed) for the much-anticipated hatchings.

Okay, okay, okay, we get it, nest was not effected by human interference. Who are you?!?!

By the weekend, you guessed it, another egg (9), picture post, and an appreciation of where the whole a dozen of eggs thing comes from. And then it happened. We were sitting on the deck during the warmest part of the day, when all of a sudden a flying object buzzed past us, landing right next to the nest. Mama was home! We remained frozen, not wanting to make a sound, but carefully stood up and locked eyes with Mama… Duck…settling in on top of her eggs. We were so surprised that this first encounter was not photographed, but on a return trip, we had the Canon Rebel T4i ready to go.

Mama! Finally! I had a feeling it was you.

The mystery was solved. Nine 9 eggs. One duck. Hundreds of neighbors engaged. Though the story may not be over as one follower suggested, “We are now all invested in the future ducklings,” so we may be headed to web cam land. I wonder what’s the best brand. Maybe I should ask for a second opinion on that Neighbors and Friends Facebook group!

BONUS SECTION-Part 2: What Happened to the Eggs?

That story is 100% true local (as local gets) news…for 4 days. Looking back, I wish I immediately purchased and set-up a live webcam so the followers could experience what was happening in my backyard at any time- especially, the hatching. Yes, the original article above lacks that information, as it didn’t happen for another 6 days. Here’s what we know; the day before the eggs hatched, my wife saw a green mallard near the nest that morning, but didn’t think much of it. When we arrived home from work, the eggs hatched and there was no sign of the ducklings, mama -or dad(?). We hoped it was a hatching and not an attack by a predator. I am happy to confirm it was the former. A week or so later, I was getting the mail and a neighbor drove by and stopped to chat. In the middle of our conversation – and out of the blue, she remembered, “Oh my God, I never told you, I saw a duckling in your driveway about a week ago!” Somehow that information was never relayed back to us (we’re all busy, right?), but it was an unprompted thought, so I am going with it as “what happened” to the ducklings. It’s a happy memory of a brief, yet crazy time in a little town in Connecticut.

Golf Courses on Cape Cod

Last day of the 2018 Chewing Cup, a 3-Day Ryder Cup Style tournament, Emerald Lake Golf Club, FL.

Authors Note: With spring starting to break through the crisp grey mornings, I find myself getting ready for the Chewning Cup, my annual golf trip down south or out west. Stemming from a best buddies’ bachelor party in Charleston, I made some new best buddies during our rounds of golf, with one lobbying me hard to join the annual golf trip, happening in Fort Lauderdale the following spring. The Chewning Cup is no regular, packaged, run-of-the-mill golf tournament. This is a 3-day Ryder Cup-style, team best ball format, complete with longest drive, closest to the pin, putting contests and a comical amount of side bets and gambling in between rounds with cards, “pong,” shuffleboard, and billiards. (The rental house usually sleeps 16+ and as expected, has lots of toys on the property.) Two teams face-off, much like the United States versus Europe -for bragging rights and of course, some cash. Players wear different color shirts on each day to signify what group they are playing in since there are always a few freshman in the group. This year 22 golfers are participating. There is even practice round on “arrival day”/Thursday; so for the first time in my life, I’m scheduled to play 72 holes of golf in 4 days…and I have yet to swing a club!

You may be wondering where I am headed, since I have not yet mentioned it? The destination is Scottsdale, Arizona, which conveniently will allow me visit another State Capitol and also catch a Diamondbacks game. Phoenix will give me 23 U.S. Capitols and the DBacks game will give me 11 ballparks visited. Saving the best for last, Team Captain Matt and I are on the same flight outs, so my quiet foam dice will allow us to get a few solid games of Yahtzee on the plane. Those rolls may actually be the first side bets of the trip. Wish me luck.

Cape Cod is the Golf Coast!

As the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce states, “Cape Cod truly is “The Golf Coast!”  It is no secret that this sandy peninsula is the top golf destination in the Northeast.” While that could be perceived as a stretch, I tend to agree. I’ve played golf in all four parts of the Cape, most of the popular courses and even private country clubs. There are two dozen public courses and another 12+ private country clubs across Cape Cod, with a higher concentration in the Mid and Upper Cape, though some of the oldest and most scenic courses lay on the Outer and Lower Cape. Below is an overview of the courses I’ve played in geographical order, with a short description and pricing (subject to change). Is Cape Cod the Golf Coast? You decide. Drive for show, putt for dough!

Outer Cape

Chequesset Yacht & Country Club, 680 Chequesset Neck Road, Wellfleet, 9-holes, $35 ($55 for 18-play the course twice). Tee times can be booked in advance.
Chequesset Yacht & Country Club is a semi-private club located in the fishing village of Wellfleet (on the Cape Cod Bay side). While the course’s official name has the “Yacht and Country Club” moniker, the membership is much more laid back. On the website, they kid that they don’t even have yachts, they have small boats and kayaks, plus their golf course is open to the public. For a mesmerizing view, take a seat on the bench in front of the pro shop, facing away from the golf course for a picturesque view of Cape Cod Bay.. My first time playing CYCC had two notable occurrences. First, I re-connected with Jim Knowles, the pro (formerly of the PGA Tour and Cranberry Valley Country Club), wearing his can’t-be-missed-American flag shirt and matching shirts. It must have been around July 4th. Second, in a bitter back-and-forth match play with frenemy Matt, it all came down to Hole 9. I managed to drive my ball straight, but not far, right in front of some standing water/ground under repair. Miraculously, my second shot took off like a bat out of hell (think I clubbed up 2-3 clubs to compensate for the soaked grass) and the ball headed to the flag, hit the green and stuck. The green was also damp. My buddy was able to get onto the green in 3, which set me up for a 20-foot birdie putt with a down hill break for the win. Let the record show, I nailed it and he bought the beers.

Highland Links Golf Course, 10 Highland Light Road, North Truro, 9-holes, $35 ($65 for 18-play the course twice). Tee times can be booked in advance
Founded in 1892, Highland Links is Cape Cod’s oldest golf course. The course is naturally stunning, perched along windswept bluffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, with Highland Lighthouse always within view. More significant than its age is Highland’s heritage. Deep natural rough, Scotch broom, heath, non irrigated open fairways, and spectacular ocean views keep the course a genuine links, close to the Scottish tradition. Years back, an ocean hotel and cottage resort lined the property, which attracted a steady stream of professional and casual golfers. In the 1960’s, when Congress approved President Kennedy’s Cape Cod National Seashore Act, Highland Links became Federal property and is currently leased to Johnson Golf Management. Accuracy is an important skill set when playing Highlands. On  a breezy day, you may need one ball per hole!

The first hole on the Port Course at The Captain’s.

Lower Cape
The Captain’s Golf Course, 1000 Freeman’s Way, Brewster, 36 holes, $77 (multiple discounts for time of year, time of day, day of the week, age, etc.). Tee times available (can be booked any time!)
The Captain’s is my go-to these days. There are so many discounts that we always seem to find a great deal and are still able to have a full day at the beach or do whatever with the rest of the family. This place is massive, with two 18-hole courses, appropriately named the Starboard and the Port Courses. In my (humble) experience, the Port course is the scoring course and the Starboard course is the more challenging layout. I say this mainly because the last time I played the Port Course, my scorecard was -1 after the first five holes (Par, Bogie, Birdie, Birdie, Par…and then I got a snowman (or three) to round out what should have been a record-setting front 9. Alas, golf is a cruel game, that for some reason, I enjoy tremendously. In terms of amenities, The Captain’s has a large pro shop, above average restaurant and multiple putting greens. My spiritual golf guide/mentor, Pete and I sometimes drive to the course before dinner just to have a putting competition on the green in front of the clubhouse. The only drawback to The Captain’s is that the driving range is down the street and you are NOT allowed to take carts since there is not cart path. Plan ahead if you want to hit the range before teeing off.

My brother Mike and I on Hole #6 at Chatham Seaside Links, circa 1992. Notice my brother’s original Chatham A’s cap!

Chatham Seaside Links, 209 Seaview Street, Chatham, 9 holes, $20 ($31 for 18 holes-play the course twice). No tee times, first-come, first-serve.
Ahh, where it all started for me, summer, beach and golfing on Cape Cod. The second oldest golf course on Cape Cod (1895), this quaint 9-hole golf course is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, elegant homes walking distance to downtown Chatham and the one and only, Chatham Bars Inn. In fact, the golf course use to be owned and operated by the Chatham Bars Inn, but now it is run by the Town of Chatham. The charming part about this course is that the first five holes play short (the first hole, a Par 4, playing 286 yards downhill is reachable off the tee) with two par 3s. However, there is not a whole lot of room for error on those first five, given the deep woods and private property lines off the cart path. The back four, however, are wide-open, links-style fairways with ocean breezes and the peek-a-boo view of the ocean from the seventh and ninth hole tee boxes. I recorded my first birdie on Hole #8 a long time ago. I missed a maybe-hole-in-one by 4 feet on Hole #3 not too long ago.

Cranberry Valley Golf Course, 183 Oak Street, Harwich, 18 holes, $74 (some discounts for weekday, twilight, etc). Tee times available.
I bought my first set of driver covers at Cranberry Valley. Knowing myself, I probably did this to commemorate the first time completing 18-holes as the scorecard did not satisfy remembering the occasion. While I do not play Cranberry Valley regularly despite it’s close proximity to Chatham, I recall it being a relatively tight, tree-lined course with plenty of sand traps and other man-made obstacles to hold your score hostage. A not-so-noticeable perk is that the driving range is located very close to the first tee. Recently, the popular Hot Stove Saloon in Harwichport expanded their reach by agreeing to operate the snack shack at the course. I should probably go back this season and see how good my memory is.

The Bogey Brothers enjoying the view from Hole #6, Eastward Ho! Country Club.

Eastward Ho! Country Club (private), 325 Fox Hill Road, Chatham, 18 holes, ($100+, cart included). Make a friend or two to get a tee time.
To say this golf course is stunning, is an understatement. Hold that thought. My “bogey brother” Dan is a member, and almost every summer since he’s joined, we’ve been able to play. Before he joined the Ho!, Chatham Seaside Links was our home course and we must have played it every weekend in the summer since becoming adults. Back to the Ho!. Most of the front and back holes have views of Pleasant Bay, with a few even having tee boxes or greens mere steps from the water. The ridge line on Hole #6 is looks like a ski hill and the tee box from Hole #7 and Hole #15 (if memory serves me), make you do a triple take. Only Holes 1 and 2 have an “okay” view. Dan’s father, Dr. William Healy, actually wrote a book about the history of the course including the original design, membership and competitions that is a delight to flip through. (He’s gone on to be hired to write similar style books about other golf courses on the Cape and in his hometown of Concord.) 

My favorite history about Eastward Ho!, however, is a little different and entirely based on my experience. For three consecutive years (2014-2016), Dan and I played a simple match play during our annual outing. Our abilities are about even, with him edging me on driving distance, getting out of trouble (bunkers, deep rough) and overall fundamentals with me having him slightly on accuracy and putting. Buying the first round in the Clubhouse afterward is always on the line, not to mention the coy smile of bragging rights. We seem to trade holes and it always comes down to the fabled 9th, or 18th hole, to determine the winner. Well, I’m happy to report coming out on top, having collected the scorecards from those three rounds to prove it. In 2017 we did not play due to availability and in 2018, we did a team match play with him and his cousin paired with me and another buddy. For a competitive pair that we are, owning those scorecards puts a smile on my face every time I think about it.

The high school crew Pete, Joe and Bryan pose before 18 holes at Harwich Port.

Harwich Port Golf Club, Harwichport, 51 South Street, 9 holes, $25 ($35 for 18-play the course twice). No tee times, first-come, first-serveNote: Cash only!
The most recent time I played Harwich Port Golf Club was with my buddy Brian who was vacationing for the week in town. Not only is he not a golf, he didn’t have his own clubs, and for some reason, thought I was bringing an extra set for him. This critical information was not communicated clearly as my text messages proved, though we did speak on the phone the night before which he claimed was the time he asked for the extra set. We both realized the problem when on double-check with the starter. My “phone-a-friend” was to none other than Bob Shaw, my pop, who promptly dropped what he was doing in the yard, grabbed the cobweb covered bag, and flew to the course. Pop arrived when our names were being called. Brian promptly shanked his tee shot into the road. Despite having a loyal following and seemingly packed by tourists hoping to squeeze in 9 before beach time, the pace of play moves. The course is not long as it crosses Forest Street twice. The putting green was also large and in good shape considering the volume of players.

Mid Cape
Bass River Golf Course, 62 Highbank Road, South Yarmouth, 18 holes, $73 (discounts based on time of day). Tee times can be booked for anytime!
Unfortunately, my one and only time playing Bass River was during aeration, with the plugs littering the fairway and the putting surface taking the form of an off-road trail for my ball. But, it was a beautiful fall foliage kind of day and I completed 18 holes in less than 3 hours. The staff was very friendly considering the condition of the course and I would certainly give the course another go earlier in the season. 

Bayberry Hills Golf Course, 635 West Yarmouth Road, West Yarmouth, 27 holes, $83 (discounts based on time of day). Tee times can be booked for anytime! For the record, the Yarmouth Golf logo was the inspiration for the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. Therefore, I felt obligated to play following my colossal defeat at Ocean’s Edge in Orleans. Bayberry Hills features 3 nine-hole courses, patriotically named, the Red, White and Blue courses. I chose the Blue course, a traditional, wide-open links course with ample tall grass, and not a soul to be found on this late September Sunday. I also scored some awesome discounts on two golf shirts, one of which, a Ping “Sunday red,” which I will be sporting in Arizona in less than a week. I have not played the other courses yet, but judging from the scorecard, they are slightly more difficult based on yardage. I will definitely get back to West Yarmouth to play the other courses this summer — sporting my Sunday red.

Upper Cape
Sandwich Hollows Golf Club, East Sandwich, 1 Round Hill Road, 18 holes, $55 with cart. Tee times booked up to 3 weeks in advance. Because there are so many good golf courses in the Lower Cape, I almost never travel past the mid Cape to golf. However, years back on my way to Chatham, I stopped at Sandwich Hollows for a quick 9 holes before a late dinner. While there are a few “peek-a-boo” views of Cape Cod Bay, the majority of the course is tucked away in dense woods, perfect for losing a ball – or five – on one hole – number 4 if my memory serves. The course proudly touts that it “invokes images of the quiet solitude of great golf in Vermont or New Hampshire,” because each holes is essentially isolated from the others. This is not your wide-open links course. While Sandwich Hollows may be missing the Green and White Mountains or our northern states, I’ll take the salty air of Cape Cod Bay any day. I played bogey golf, the equivalent of the professionals par golf, so a part of me just wants to retire this course and let that scorecard stand.

What are your favorite golf courses to play on Cape Cod?