Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever

Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.

During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.

To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever

It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula! 

The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod. 

The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.

Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.

One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.

Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.

Amenities

Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!

Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Crossings

There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.

The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Natural environment

You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.

Towns

Yarmouth

Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.

The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Dennis

The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.

A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Harwich

The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.

First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Brewster

Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.

The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Orleans

The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.

A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.

Eastham

The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty. 

Wellfleet

The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.

It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.

Enjoy the ride!

Breweries “Hopping Up” All Over Cape Cod

Author’s Note: Happy 2020! As the calendar turned from December to January, a renewed sense of excitement and anticipation of a new year – even decade – can be hard to ignore. Will everyone be driving an electric vehicle over new, safer and modernly designed Bourne and Sagamore bridges, by the end of the decade? Will composting food waste be the norm, to slow the cost of garbage collection and put to better use the release of carbon into the atmosphere. Further, what will our ocean look like; temperature, sea level rise, teaming with fish? I hope so. 

This new decade is also going to be a big year for the Shaws, as our family will be adding a new member. A nervous excitement is the best description at this point. While the title wave of responsibility and learning is starting to crest, I plan to squeeze in a little fun while I still can. One of my favorite ways to relax, catch-up with friends and support local businesses is to visit a favorite or new brewery. Can releases and live music are the preferred times to go, as that secondary excitement usually makes for a good vibe. When planning a brewery tour or visit, it’s hard not to initially think of Colorado, Maine, or Vermont for those big name breweries, though Cape Cod seems to be fertile ground for the craft brew scene as well, with three new breweries having opened within the last two years. Whether you find yourself on the Upper, Mid, Lower or Outer Cape, there’s a brewery for you on Cape Cod.

Breweries “Hopping Up” All Over Cape Cod

It’s not new, but the pace of local craft breweries opening across the United States, especially in the northeast, more so in Massachusetts is extraordinary. Did you know Cape Cod is the home to breweries, wineries, a cidery, a vineyard and even a distillery? I didn’t. Part of the Cape Cod Craft Beverage Trail, over a dozen craft establishments have sprouted up across Cape Cod, with most growth among the breweries, three within the last two years. If you enjoy yard games (Naukabout), food trucks (Cape Cod Beer), mini golf (Barnstable Brewing) table games (Hog Island) or pizza (Bad Martha), these breweries are for you:

So many beers to try, so little time. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.

Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery, Falmouth, is the newest brewery on Cape Cod and the second location in the Bad Martha family, the original in Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard. The Falmouth location is near Mashpee Commons, housed in a giant, and beautifully restored rustic barn. Plentiful outdoor seating and parking makes your arrival effortless. Inside the tap room is a large bar, high top seating and a large merchandise section. Dogs are allowed, which won me over quickly. The brewery boasts over ten beers on rotating taps, with a good selection of 4-pack tall boy cans to go. The kitchen serves a variety of pizza, which we have not yet tried. The beer, we did try. Bad Martha’s flights are a delight, with four 5 oz. pours and a paper and pencil for note taking, or in our case, a Yahtzee scorecard. The flagship beer, Bad Martha Ale is an amber ale, with a bit of a Guinness-like finish, was my favorite. The highly popular “508 IPA” was only available in cans and was later consumed by a buddy before I could try it. Kyle! Our bartender, Sheila, from Vermont, who lived in Colorado, gave us plenty of common ground to talk about. The brewery is open ever day, beginning at 11:00 am.

A brew break during the 2019 Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. Photo credit: Barnstable Brewing.

Barnstable Brewing, Barnstable, is another newer brewery on Cape Cod, despite the founder having 30 years experience making small batches for family and local events. The Barnstable brewery is conveniently located off Route 28, and just happens to be next to Adventure Falls Mini Golf. What better way to spend a spring, summer or fall afternoon – mini golf and beer. Boom! The exterior of the building does not scream brewery, but once inside, has an instant, laid-back family room feel. There are over-sized couches, high tops, and board games. The bar is a long enough to seat over a dozen people, with a handful of drafts and a few canned options. The complimentary pretzels at the bar is a nice touch. The outdoor area features Adirondack chairs, patio furniture and a fire pit. A giant Connect 4 game adds nice color (and playful vibe) to the deck. The blueberry ale is delicious, available in cans and the winner of the day. The brewery is open Thursday through Sunday, and hours are variable. My first visit was at 2:00 pm despite their website saying their hours were 4:00-8:00 pm. Win-win!

Lots of choices on tap at Cape Cod Beer. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Cape Cod Beer, Hyannis, is the long-time, dare I say original, craft brewery on Cape Cod. Their tagline, “A vacation in every pint,” sums it up. Having been around for a long time (1996), Cape Cod Beer is found in pretty much every restaurant or bar from the Upper to Outer Cape. The Cape Cod Red is the flagship brew, though Cape Cod Porter got my attention on this latest visit. The brewery has come along way since my first tour over a decade ago when you could only peek in the brewing operation. The covered outdoor patio greets visitors, followed by a store with merchandise and fridge featuring cans and growlers. The non-liquid “attention draw” is the toy truck collection mounted on the wall. Two complete Matchbox Collectibles Beer Truck Collections; the Great American Micro Breweries and Models of Yesteryear. I won’t spoil the cool story of how this came to be, and instead hope you’ll see it for yourself. There are a ton of events every month at the brewery, such as group fun runs, live music, tours, home brew club gatherings, (hula) hoops and hops night, and even flannel Friday axe throwing. Yeah, Cape Cod Beer has a sense of humor — and a sense for fun. A vacation in every pint, indeed.

Dogs like the outdoor space at Devil’s Purse. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Devil’s Purse Brewing Company, South Dennis, is an established brewery located along industrial row of Great Western Road. The brewery shares the building with other professional offices, but added an outdoor seating area in a section of the parking lot closest to the front door. The outdoor area is yard game and dog friendly, with customized cornhole boards placed carefully between picnic bench seating. The indoor area is cozy, with a few table tops, but most of the room is reserved for the brewing operations. While the handline Kolsch is the flagship beer, my favorite beer only found once in cans, was the Hens & Chickens Double IPA, surprisingly drinkable for such a high A/V. Devil’s Thumb hours are earlier than most, with a 12:00-7:00 pm. 

We never did get on the ping pong table. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.

Hog Island Beer Company, Orleans, is another established brewery located next to the Old Jail House Tavern, and down the street from the Beacon Room, on West Road. The outdoor area features yard games, seating and is dog-friendly. But don’t try to bring your cute pooch inside, they did not smile, innocent as the transgression was. For us paddleboarders, the Hog Island story is a good one, and the brewery just turned five years old. As Frosty the Snowman would say, “Happy Birthday!” The indoor space is large, with pretty much any table game imaginable; ping pong, billiards, foosball, air hockey and more. Ellen and I each ordered a flight, with generous pours. My favorite was the Moon Snail Pale Ale, though it was not available in cans at the time. During our last visit, staff were setting up for a private event, so add Hog Island to your short list of places to host your next special occasion.  

The colorful can cooler is hard to ignore at Naukabout Brew Company. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Naukabout Beer Company, Mashpee, is a new brewery with the most amazing outdoor playground (for adults) maybe ever. First, the brewery actually has a view of Mashpee Pond, Sam’s Cove side. Second, the multi-level backyard has every classic yard game from horseshoes, cornhole, washers and more. The indoor space is comfortable, with a mahogany bar and well crafted wood tables. The tap list is extensive, which is surprising for a brewery that is less than two years old, but then again, go big or go home. Naukabout does not do flights, but instead does short and long pours. I sampled 3 short pours, still a hearty 8 ounces. The winner of the bunch was “Quitting Time NEIPA,” though the other 12 beers on tap meant that a return visits needs to happen.

Cheers from the outdoor space at Naukabout! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Other breweries on Cape Cod include Hope Shoal Ciderworks in Provincetown (no public location) and Aquatic Brewing (brewery in planning) in Falmouth. Who knows, by the time this post goes live, there may be a handful more! I hope so. Cheers!

A Winter Survival Guide for Cape Cod

The mountain vistas on Route 40 West from Winter Park, CO, to Steamboat Springs, CO.

Author’s Note: With the holidays now behind us, the long, cold, dark months of January and February are beginning to set in. The temperature today is a mere 16 degrees. Brrr. My inner skier is perfectly okay with this as long as it snows in the mountains (or snow is being made) but the civilian who drives to work, takes the dog out and occasionally runs is not loving the teeth-chattering and bone-chilling cold. For us, fortunately, there is a silver lining. In our case, my wife and I will be embarking on our (now 5th) Annual Ski Trip to Colorado to visit family and friends. This year’s itinerary includes a day trip to Cheyenne, Wyoming (to visit my 20th State Capitol), but more importantly, 3 days of skiing at Winter Park, 1 day at Copper and 3 days at Aspen. Thank you Ikon Base Pass. We may also swing by the Livestock Show in Denver for a firsthand view of the legendary sport (nay, art) of Mutton Busting. So, as Dean Martin sang a long time ago, “Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!”

The Filing Station Breakfast Sandwich is all you need to get the day started on the right foot!

Go Out to Breakfast. It has been said that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I tend to agree (as you will see above and below). If the restaurant is not too busy and you are in no rush, grab a newspaper, ask for a table in the corner away from the door and keep the coffee re-fills coming. There are no shortage of breakfast spots – or diners – on Cape Cod, even in the winter months, though a few do close temporarily. Everyone needs to re-charge their batteries. Unlike the summer, when it’s all “grab-and-go,” settle in for your morning meal without the pressure of the summer rush. The wait staff is usually more chatty than the busy months, so get to know your neighbors if you don’t already.

If you like Double IPAs, be on the look-out for the rarely released Chicken & Hens DIPA.

Find a Brewery Tour. The craft beer phenomenon has hit Cape Cod with the recent openings of Barnstable Brewing in Hyannis, and soon to be opening Aquatic Brewing in Falmouth. With Devil’s Purse, Hog Island, Cape Cod Beer and Cisco on Nantucket already established, almost any craft beer needs can go (growler) filled (pun intended). Most breweries can their beer and offer growler(s) fills for seasonal beers with limited availability.

Go to the Movies. While going to the movies is not an activity unique to winter, it is certainly a reasonable one. Despite the trend of movie theaters closing due to on demand web streamlining, some local theaters have survived despite the changing culture. Chatham’s Orpheum Theater is a good example of a small cinema that also offers a restaurant, bar, and concessions. As you enter the main lobby, a powerful wall mural hits you smack in the face featuring familiar faces of Hollywood lore.

Clark W. Griswold gets a little emotional watching the home videos.

Dust off those home movies and Polaroids. No one wants to admit it, but we all have artifacts of the past—home movies, Polaroid pictures and even slide decks. Remember the scene in National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation when Clark gets stuck in the attic and to kill time awaiting rescue, plugs in the slide projector? We all laughed, he cried, and we laughed again when “Dear Frances” opened the attic ceiling door. Why not replicate that joy and laughter? Just don’t get stuck in the attic.

A little paint, a few oyster shells and some scrap wood is all you need for a little art project.

Create Your Own Art.
Even if you don’t have youngsters around, there are tons of ideas for fun art projects to break-up any routine. For starters, a small paint and brush set is less than $20. Driftwood, dried pine cones and leaves make great bases and accent pieces. Not into painting, how about photography? Ever take a picture of a breathtaking sunset, waterfall or snowy winter morning? Well, order a 20 x 24 print, frame it and hang it on a wall. A few easy steps and you can relive that moment every day just walking down your hallway! Into jewelry? Craft stores such as Hattie D’s sell thin strips of leather, rubber and beads, which provide an easy way to make a necklace or bracelet. There are even YouTube videos that show viewers how to make knots that can be adjusted.

Check out public announcements for special forums, town meetings, classes and workshops.

Take a class. Admittedly, no one likes homework, but this isn’t that kind of class. Many stores, businesses and retailers offer free or complimentary classes. As an example, Black Eel Outfitters offered fly fishing lessons (dry land), Friends of the Cape Cod National Seashore runs a Winter Film Festival, libraries offer reading and writing groups, many of which are free. There are also special town meetings or community forums to stay informed on local issues. Of course, more formal classes are offered by the community colleges, town departments and libraries.

Our Christmas Day activity was assembling the Snowman Celebration. It is still not complete.

Play a board game or puzzle. Odds are you have an old board game or two (or ten), buried in a storage container or closet. Well, grab a flashlight and go find that board game that has not been played in a while. This way, everyone playing is on the same level. (I’m rotating between Clue, Life, Candyland and Chutes and Ladders.) Card games are also fun and there are a zillion YouTube videos (instructions) on how to play. If you have “table room” to spare, find a puzzle that has not be assembled in a while and dump the contents on the table. Set your expectations that the puzzle may not be completed that same day, but there’s nothing wrong with working on it for a few weeks, here and there. Pro tip: start with the edges!

The thick cut slices of country wheat bread at the Roadhouse is essentially an appetizer.

Go to a Pub.Centuries ago, the Public House (or Pub) was not just a place to drink beer, wine or spirits, but a unique social center that focused on community life in that village or neighborhood. Luring in tourists in-season nonwithstanding, pubs, taverns and bars still have a small part in that role on life on Cape Cod. Many pubs have live entertainment, trivia competitions and even karaoke most week day evenings. And if your a sports fan, there will probably be a game or two on the big screen. Some pubs also have a winter diner’s club card (to punch or stamp) to earn a free dinner. 

Create Liquid Goodness. Oddly enough, winter is the only time of year I drink hot chocolate. Weird, right? Well, why not go all out when making this silky sweet goodness. Pro tip: Use milk instead of water (obviously). Whip cream and marshmallows are highly recommended, while a little Bailey’s is optional (depending on the time of day I suppose). Another winter beverage that started as a family cold remedy is the Hot Toddy. While the basic ingredients are tea and whisky, it can be made slightly more respectable by adding honey and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Both options are good ways to reward yourself for shoveling snow off the driveway.

Volunteer. It has been said that volunteerism and philanthropy is one of the highest forms of citizenship. Local charities, nonprofits and other community organizations make ends meet because of dedicated volunteers, donors and Board of Directors. Whatever your passion; elevating arts and culture, improving youth literacy, ending hunger or preserving the environment, there is a nonprofit, foundation or community organization that shares that mission. Find it.

Take a hike. Whether you walk along the shore, dunes or trail, Cape Cod has a surprisingly large number (over 100) of marked hiking trails in every town. Hiking is not only great exercise, but a great way to see a different part of all Cape Cod towns. Of course, be sure to bundle up. As Patagonia says, there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear! 

Indeed, winters on Cape Cod can be long, but there are multiple ways to keep the dream of spring alive!

Gift Shops on Cape Cod

Author’s Note: It is not lost on me that life is not always gumdrops and roses. I received a heavy dose reality check last week while reading headlines on the Hartford Courant during lunch. Three aricles on their homepage “featured” a disturbing act of anti-semitism during a performance of Fiddler on the Roof in Baltimore (which we had just seen in Hartford the week prior), a disgusting story of human trafficking in a suburb not more than 30 minutes from home, and a “are-you-kidding me” case of animal cruelty in the town I grew up in. I literally lost my appetite. Not to mention the ongoing wildfires in California, chaos on the southern border and yet another damaging climate report noting that we may be at the point of no return for a permanently warming planet. Such saddness, devastation, tragedy and uncertinly is becoming too common and all the more reason to be thankful for what we have – now and every single day. 

Be thankful for what you have — I am thankful for waking up today, my family, friends, health and the ability to hope, laugh and wonder. Don’t frown about what you don’t have. Experiences matter, stuff does not. Help others. Be nice. Smile and laugh as much as you can. Tell people how you really feel now, don’t wait. Get outside more. Turn off push notifications and alerts. Read a newspaper when you have no where to be. Drive with the windows down and your favorite music turned up. Throw your routine upside down every now and then. Okay, enough of the soap box. 
 
As we transition into the (usually) happy holiday season, part of the magic of the season is giving. Such small acts can reap big reactions and rewards. It’s what makes the season special – and those experiences are what counts. Even more important, are the faces you may not see; adults and children in need that may sneak a smile just from a strangers’ generority. Whoever the gift recipient, there are plenty of “ways” to give — i.e., shop — Black Friday sales, Small Business Saturday, Cybermonday discounts, Giving Tuesday, and the hundreds of “coupon-emails” you will no doubt receive from any business you ever shared your email with! Shop local whenever possible, as it has been estimated that 2/3 or $0.67 of each dollar spent locally STAYS in the local community. If that’s not an economic development plan, what is? To fulfill some of your gift giving needs, with a nautical or coastal twist, check out these Cape Cod shops!
 
Gift Shops on Cape Cod
Barry’s Barn, East Dennis. Painter C. Barry Hills, runs a small botique gift shop just off scenic Route 6A in East Dennis, a few minutes away from the popular greasy spoon, Grumpy’s Restaurant. The two-story, charming half gift shop/ workshop (upstairs) barn behind his home, features a mix of paintings, gifts, home decour and garden accents for coastal living with a touch of vintage. Whenever we have a lazy day along 6A, stopping at “the Barn” to poke around is a requirement. Our  “Cape Escape” themed living room has a few pieces from “the Barn.”
Christmas Joy, South Chatham. Their tagline rings true, “where you can experience the joy of Christmas everyday!” Sure, Christmas shopping in shorts and sandals may seem a little odd in the northeast, but there are so many creative works and fun little games, puzzles, etc, that it’s hard not to get lost in this seasonal escape. The store is also the anchor of the South Chatham village and business community, surrounded by two restaurants, hardware store and branch library.
Hattie D’s, Harwichport. Hattie D’s was a new discovery this year during an autumn “slow ride” down Route 28 to the Bourne Bridge. The small gift shop and art store features a mix of antique decorative pieces, home furnishings, lighting as well as a robust “create-your-own” art supply section. What distinguishes Hattie D’s from other stores is their decorative art classes, led by three different artists, with a cap of 10 people per session. We left the store with a discounted Halloween decoration and felt satisfied with the surprise stop.
Just Picked, Yarmouthport. Located at a dangerous intersection (blind curve) along Route 6A and Willow Street, Just Picked features three “departments,” coastal clothing, gifts and home furnishings, played out in two buildings. Perhaps most important, Just Picked carries many of the same items that other stores price higher (notably accent pillows, fun signs, and decorattive ornaments). The store is clean, decorated for the season, and a fun game or humorous gadget seems to always be displayed at the register. My favorite game is their Cape Cod trivia cards. For a small shop, they also have an online store.
Monomoy Salvage, Chatham. If owner Carol Sherman did not set up some of her nautical antique items outside the barn-size gift shop, you may not see a reason to stop. The white one room barn, with faded front signage, isn’t much to look at, but don’t let that fool you. The broken sea shell driveway is a red carpet to some pretty cool finds. A mix of “salvaged” nautical instruments, signs, antique paintings and coastal home furnishings are the core contents. On the other hand, what makes the place unique is there collection of whales, wine crates, mermaids, baseball memorbilia and oars. Where else have you those items mentioned in the same sentence!
Shor, Provincetown. The up-scale home furnishings store is located in the heart of Commerical Street, and invites you to see Herbert and Kevin at work with interior design projects. It’s not a large store – more of a mini showroom – but they have items you may have not seen before. (A circular mirror surrounded by two dozen white oars was particulary impressive.) The store definitely has a “be careful, don’t touch that” feel to it, but the doors are open.

Tale of the Cod
, Chatham. Located at the “tail end” of downtown, Tale of the Cod is one of my favorite stores, if not just for the perfect name. The transformed sea captains home is a series of displays within just three rooms, but it feels much larger with alcoves and the long and narrow home furnishings area. The inspiration for our (7-foot) seashell tree and many of the first ornaments came from their displays. Fast forward to present day, their Scout line is another perfect fit for our furry child!
There are many other local stores: surf shops, pet stores, clothing stores and other specialty goods stores, all of which are worth mentioning, so stay tuned for more shopping tips!
As a teaser, my go-top surf shop is Pump House in Orleans; pet shop is Barkers, Orleans; gear rental is Chatham Kayak Company; hot food to go is Chatham Fish and Lobster, sandwich shop is Corner Store, coffee shop is Chatham Perk, brewery is Devil’s Purse in Dennis, and clothing store is Black Eel Outfitters in Dennis. Breakfast and lunch spots leaving the Cape are Marshland and Beth’s Bakery, Sandwich, respectively.

Lower Cape Friday of Firsts

The Choose Your Own Adventure jar.

Author’s Note: While I don’t recall ever truly following through on a New Year’s resolution, my wife and I did create a “choose your own adventure” kind-of-game as a way of forcing us to try new things and bust out of the “routine cycle” that occurs every so often. We’ve made it a point to try “new to us” nearby and not so nearby restaurants, music venues, beaches, hiking trails, etc. The “how to” was quite simple; just write down random travel activities as they come to mind, fold-up the paper, mix it in a jar on the kitchen counter, and regularly pull “an adventure.” Though we never defined “regularly…”

Indeed, variety is the spice of life. For us, it’s not so much trying brand-new things, more of finally getting somewhere we just have not been to regardless of reason. Almost half-way though the year, we’ve discovered some amazing breweries, breath-taking (and mostly deserted) stretches of beach, met warm and friendly fellow dog owners, new trails and paddled in waters previously unknown. And in that spirit, a recent Friday of firsts became a pleasant little adventure on the Cape.
Earlier in the summer, we kept seeing signs in Chatham store windows that read, Where are the whales? We initially were confused; assumed they meant, where are the sharks, and thought little of it. The infamous sharks were cleverly located in Kate Gould park, now at Eldridge Public Library, not to mention the the Atlantic Ocean. Nope, these signs in the windows are not about the hungry, beach-closing summer visitors, but of the lovable, gentle some of which are endangered, whale.

The Scavenger Hunt Log.

The business community, specifically, the Chatham Merchants Association, created a “Where are the Whales?” Scavenger Hunt to find 35 decorated wood-shaped whales, spread across town – in stores, restaurants, theaters, even the airport. Participants (notice I didn’t say “Kids”) match the whale (number) to the listed locations, submit a completed log to the Chatham Chamber of Commerce Information Booth (and receive a prize) and, if the log book is 100% correct, are entered into a drawing for 1 of 5 grand prizes, to be announced…

A cloudy summer morning seemed a great time for a dry-land whale watch and scavenger hunt to simply be kids again. Over the course of about 2 hours, we found over half of the whales! Most are located along Main Street, the central business district, so it’s convienent for families and of course encourages physical activity between unplanned purchases. About 10 whales are not downtown so you will have to drive around if you are “in it to win it.”
While this activity may seem cute, it was actually a blast. We brought the puppy (all but one store was puppy friendly), met a lot of friendly seasonal employees, and shopped in a few stores for the first time. Quick shout out to Where the Sidewalk Ends (bookstore, cafe, generally happy place); while they made you walk upstairs to find their whale, their shelves have some cool, obscure and quirky books about Cape Cod. (They made end up providing source materials for future posts!) For all you bookworms, they even have story time at 10:00 a.m. on Wednesdays, Fancy Nancy Tea Parties and Author Literary Luncheons. I can’t believe I’d never been in that store before. The crew at Mahi Gold were also a ton of fun, particularly with the puppy. If nothing else, the whale scavenger hunt forces you to go to new places, meet new people and you never know what you might find.

Hana the Hound watching over our drafts.

 

All that walking left us parched so Ellen suggested being adults again by trying Devil’s Purse Brewing Company in South Dennis. My craft beer mentor “Jonesy” suggested visiting so we knew it was going to be good. The brewery set up a beer garden complete with cornhole pits, board games, picnic tables and Bob Marley on the speakers.

A seafood basket at Kream N’ Kone never disappoints.

While Devil’s Purse does not do the traditional “flight”, we ordered 5 oz “samples” including: Shiso Berry Ale (delicious on a hot summer day), Skywave #7 Saison (light option), Stonehorse Citra IPA (great balance) and Table Beer #16 (for an experimental, very complete). They also had cans of a Double-IPA Hens and Chickens for sale (it was not on tap) so I grabbed a 4-pack, along with Citra and the Table Beer #16, as their cooler was looking sparse, meaning, this stuff goes fast. If you have never been, Devil’s Purse also does growler, howler and crowler fills. For such a small operation, the brewery has an impressive number and variety of beers on tap. Even better, their beers (especially the Handline Kolsch) can be found at most lower cape restaurants.

Every Cape Cod town should have this street.

On the way back to Chatham, we “saw a sign,” checked out the neighborhood, then made a few more “whale stops” before calling off the hunt. A casual dinner at Kream N’ Kone (never disappointing) awaited us, and then, the ultimate first time experience of this summer, attending a show at the Monomoy Theatre in Chatham for the short-run of Little Shop of Horrors, one of Ellen’s favorite musicals. Once again, I was star-struck (pun intended as many of these young actors go on to Broadway), upon the realizeation that we had only just driven by this place for decades until now.

About a half-dozen shows run daily through the summer with evening performances at 8pm; Thursday matinees at 2pm.

The Monomoy Theater is so Cape Cod, you can’t make it up. Like many of the seasonal workers throughout the Cape, the company is mostly college students (Univiersty of Hartford) on summer break seeking to re-fine, if not enhance, their craft. Theatre-goers park on the lawn. Some of the company is provided housing on-site. Cast members not in the current performance sell concessions in the patio area during intermission. By concessions, I mean $1 water, ice tea, lemonade and cookies. There is not a bad seat in the house. Even the special effects are impressive for a seasonal program. We were so delighted with the experience I’m pretty sure were going to become “Friends of the Monomoy Theater” in 2019. In the end, art wins.

Beach day essentials.

A friendly game of Kan-Jam on a sparsely populated stretch of Newcomb Hollow Beach.

The next day was a much anticipated beach day at Newcomb Hollow Beach in Wellfleet. The “usual beach crew,” had a strict agenda of bogey boarding, pro kadima, Kan Jam, and Waboba. Seemed another great time to be kids again!

Do you have any Cape Cod “firsts” this summer?