The Only Old Colony Rail Trail Bench May Get Company

The only bench along the Old Colony Rail Trail (OCRT). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

by Jeff Shaw

Over the summer, Chatham Bikeways Committee Chair Bob Oliver recommended benches be installed along the Old Colony Rail Trail (OCRT). Only a single bench exists along the 4.6-mile route at the intersection of the trail and George Ryder Road, near the Hangar B (a public cafe), leaving weary travelers nowhere to take a break.

Indeed, “not a stone, not a log, not a bench, nothing to sit on whatsoever,” Oliver said. He’s right. I biked the route recently and other than two picnic tables in a grassy area above White Pond, there is no other place to sit along the OCRT.

Currently, the Bikeways Committee is seeking sponsors for at least four additional benches to be installed along the route. Each bench will cost $2,500, with the option of including a memorial plaque. While the price point of the benches ($2,500) is way more than the memorial brick ($150-300) pathway installed in Kate Gould Park last year, I assume a local business and/or wealthy donor will scoop up this wonderful opportunity to enhance outdoor recreation in town.

As for the locations of these four benches; good question. As of this writing, I have not received a response from the Bikeways Committee regarding where these benches would be installed. 

However, having used the trail for the last 25 years or so, I have some guesses. I describe my four guesses for the four benches locations as follows: Sure Things; “Yes, But”; and a “Hail Mary”. And for a little fun, I have a bonus guess, which will be called “How Has That Not Been Done Already!”

Once the money is raised (or the Bikeway Committee responds), I’m looking forward to seeing if I’m right or wrong!

Sure Thing #1: Intersection of Route 137 and Route 28 (between Short ‘n’ Sweet Ice Cream and Our Lady of Grace Catholic Church)

Prime real estate for a bench. There is even an ice cream shop next to the parking lot!
Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The intersection of the trail and Route 137 already received a safety upgrade at the road crossing. Flashing lights on both sides warns oncoming vehicles if a rider, walker or runner is nearby. Additionally, the site has a large parking lot, that also accommodates a food truck at select times. Already on site: a small bike rack, air pressure pumps, garbage cans and a large framed map of the trail in the immediate area. 

Sure Thing #2: Intersection at Crowell Road 

The OCRT Trailhead at Crowell Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The intersection is already billed as the Old Colony Rail Trail Trailhead (at least on Google maps), so, there should probably be a bench at the beginning/end of the trail. Additionally, there is a large framed map of the trail in the immediate area. 

Yes, But: Paved Area Where Trail Becomes Wilfred Road, near Sky Way

The quiet side of the Chatham Municipal Airport (CQX). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

A small paved area at the end of Wilfred Road leads to an emergency access gate along the fence of the airport property. Granted, the area is a little dusty and certainly quiet compared to the bustling side with the Airport Café and Stick’n Rudder Airplane Tours. Still, a bench facing the runway with views of planes taking off and landing would be an enjoyable view while taking a break. Admittedly, the location is less than a mile from the original bench on the other side of the airport, and just down the street from the picnic tables at White Pond.

Hail Mary: Wilfred Road Overlooking Little White Pond, White Pond or Emery Pond

A view of White Pond from Wilfred Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Let’s be honest, a bench is best placed in a location with a scenic view. A few spots along Wilfred Road, closer to Old Queen Anne Road, would provide stunning views of area ponds. However, there is not much ground to secure a bench along the bluff, but it would be a lovely view in a quiet part of town.

How Have They Not Done That Yet!: Veteran’s Field, Paved Area Behind Outfield

The end of the sanctioned route (Veteran’s Field). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Perhaps the most obvious option when you think about it, a bench – or two, or even three – installed on the paved area above (and facing) the outfield makes a lot of sense. First, that’s literally where the OCRT officially ends. Second, there is a large framed map of the trail there as well as a garbage can, so people gather there. Three and most importantly, that is prime real estate for viewing baseball games!

A couple other locations that make sense, but are not as fun as the other guesses are below:

If You Insist #1: Intersection at Volunteer Park extension.

The “four corners” intersection of the OCRT. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

This location happens to be an extension trail to Volunteer Park, a public park with a skateboard park as well as ballfields. Not in view, but across from the extension path is the tennis court at Bailey’s Path, a private neighborhood. Indeed, a lot of action at this intersection.

If You Insist #2: Chatham-Harwich OCRT line.

The Chatham – Harwich line of the OCRT. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

I cannot think of a better way to illustrate being a welcoming community that promotes outdoor recreation than with a bench as soon as people cross into Chatham from Harwich.

Where do you think the benches should be installed?

September 6, 2023

Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever

Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.

During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.

To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever

It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula! 

The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod. 

The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.

Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.

One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.

Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.

Amenities

Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!

Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Crossings

There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.

The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Natural environment

You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.

Towns

Yarmouth

Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.

The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Dennis

The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.

A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Harwich

The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.

First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Brewster

Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.

The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Orleans

The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.

A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.

Eastham

The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty. 

Wellfleet

The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.

It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.

Enjoy the ride!