It was hard not to smile when seeing this sign. Photo Credit: CapeandIslands.org.
Author’s Note: As another summer season draws to a close, I am amazed at just how great the weather has been over the last three months. Every stretch of days I’ve been on the Cape has been near-perfect outdoor weather. (That localized tornado and related $4,000 in tree removal costs notwithstanding.) The summer season always passes by quickly once the Fourth of July comes and goes, back-to-school ads pop-up too early and the bombardment of college and professional football coverage begins. It’s in these moments when that ten minute walk to the beach provides an opportunity to slow down the day just a bit, and by doing so, extend the summer a few moments longer. After all, many of us have summer traditions to check-off our seasonal bucket list.
This past Labor Day Weekend, I was able to finally “check-off” a couple seasonal tradition, including a Chatham Band Concert, brunch at the Optimist Cafe, and the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters (more on that soon!). If you still have a few more “summer to do’s,” there is another option; jump on the “Keep Summah Alive” bandwagon. Many Cape Cod restaurants, businesses and lodging extend their season through Columbus Day weekend. Further, most festivals are held in the fall months, so there are plenty of autumn activities to add to a Cape Cod bucket list. Either way, hop on down!
Most beachgoers had to walk by the tempting smells of Liam’s before getting to the sand. Photo credit: John Ohman.
For 28 years, John Ohman owned and operated the restaurant (named after his first born son) siting upon the high dunes overlooking Nauset Beach. However, the origins of Liam’s goes back much further than 1989.
As early as the 1950s, the wafting smell of fried food, grilled burgers and hot dogs mixed with salty sea air hovered like a delicious cloud around the same weathered snack shack. From the 1950s to late 1980s, Philbrick’s Snack Shack operated out of the same building, on that same piece of land as Liam’s, just steps from the Atlantic Ocean.
The original operator, Philbrick’s Snack Snack, of the snack shack on Nauset Beach. Photo Credit: Margot Parson.
Interestingly, Philbrick’s Snack Shack also sold a lot of hot dogs, as they used the same company that supplied Howard Johnson’s, known at the time for their tasty frankfurters. One Philbrick son, Richard, recalled a season where The Shack sold more hotdogs from Memorial Day to Labor Day than Howard Johnson’s did year-round in their New England location(s). Richard also remembers selling one to one-and-a-half tons of onion rings…a week!
That number was on par with later estimates by Mr. Ohman of Liam’s; the latter employing more staff for a bigger operation. During Ohman’s ownership, the clam shack employed two dozen people, some local, others from nearby states and even Eastern Europe through the J-1 visa program.
Award-winning onion rings makes everyone happy! Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
In 1979, second-to-youngest son, Jeff Philbrick, took over ownership of the restaurant. After 10 years, Jeff Philbrick sold the business to John Ohman.
From 1990 to 2017, Liam’s served award-winning onion rings (as well as many other menu items) on the dune overlooking Nauset Beach. Long-time locals and visitors would describe that award-winning item, not just as onion rings, but as a summer food sacrament. While that description may seem extreme, multiple magazines, newspapers and travel guides featured or selected Liam’s at Nauset for their annual awards.
These magnets are now a prized collection that serve as a reminder of some good times on Nauset Beach. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw
Sadly, in the winter of 2017, a string of unexpectedly devastating winter storms caused extraordinary high tides and an extreme loss of beach, which threatened Liam’s foundation. This reality led the Orleans Board of Selectman to a 4-1 vote to tear down the structure and terminate Mr. Ohman’s contract with the town to lease building.
John Ohman described his time on the Cape and Nauset Beach as “a magical mystery tour.” He was quoted as saying, “I think it was a magical moment in the history of Cape Cod, where the sea met the tourism industry with a perfect symbiosis of great seafood, all the sealife, whales, sharks – and great music.”
Severe erosion threatened Liam’s foundation and ultimately led to the Board of Selectman’s vote to tear down the building. Photo credit: Alan Pollock.
On Tuesday, March 20, 2018, the building that was Liam’s (formerly Philbrick’s Snack Shack) was torn down. While owner John Ohman did not rule out a return of Liam’s, he also runs Kate’s seafood off Route 6A in Brewster. At least in the short term, the legendary onion rings live on!
John Ohman’s second location, Kate’s Seafood, off Route 6A in Brewster, serves the same quality food, just with a slightly different view. Photo Credit: John Ohman.
Boats tied up on Sundancer’s dock on Bass River in West Dennis.
Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you.
While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.
With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…
The view of the Sagamore Bridge and Cape Cod Canal from Herring Run Recreation Area, across the street from Seafood Shanty.
Bournedale The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water.
Boats listing near Chatham Fish Pier, down the road from the Chatham Bars Inn.
Chatham The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home.
Clancy’s Restaurant overlooking Swan River at dusk.
Dennis Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.
The beach in front of the Beach Bar at the Ocean House.
Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!
Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)
The sign for Brax Landing along Route 28 is hard to miss!
Harwich Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.
A round of local steamers at the Black Cat Tavern! (Sorry El!)
Hyannis Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.
Unbeknownst to us, this was our last Liam’s family dinner on Nauset Beach. Threats of erosion cannot be overstated.
Orleans Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.
The view from a picnic table in the “backyard” of the Canteen in P-Town.
Provincetown The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.
Apparently I didn’t take any pictures while eating at the Bookstore & Restaurant, but I did park in the lot across from the Bookstore for the Wellfleet Oysterfest (and ran the 5K earlier).
Wellfleet The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.
The crew at “our table” after a day on the beach. Also Pro Kadima & Kan Jam champs.
The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.
I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?
The Ridgevale Restaurant hosts the Chatham Rotary Club’s Annual Scallop Festival in 1986.
Author’s Note: Every time I drive up Ridgevale Road toward Route 28, barring right where the road splits, I cannot help but remember the Ridgevale Restaurant. I was a teenager when the restaurant finally closed (20 years ago), and only have a few memories of the place – the patio on the right side of the building nudged you sit outside in the warm, salty air. The simple oddity that this large restaurant was located in a stretch of real estate largely residential. Of course, the vintage white 1920s era Model A Ford was a head turner every time one passed the parking lot.
As with anything and everything, time marches on and things change – the restaurant industry is a great example. Customers’ taste change, new restaurants constantly sprout up, and economic conditions dictate how often and how much people “go out” to eat. Owners and kitchen teams whose personality, skill and focus on the customer experience often dictates who stays and who goes. Though, sometimes even nature also has a say (look no further than former Liam’s Restaurant at Nauset Beach) in what lasts. Either way, I’m challenging myself to not take anything for granted and enjoy the many culinary pleasures offered on the Cape.
The Ridgevale Restaurant, West Chatham For 40 years, the Ridgevale Restaurant served breakfast, lunch and dinner daily in a quaint residential stretch of West Chatham. The restaurant was known for hamburgers, fried clam plates, lobster dinners and Clams Zuppa, one of the Italian and Portuguese specialties.
The regular ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle, circa 1960s.
The story goes, W. Fred Gilmartin owned the Ridgevale Motel located directly across the street, next to Ridgevale Road, from the land the restaurant would eventually be built. In 1963, Gilmartin built the restaurant with excess lumber from the motel and opened later that year for what he only envisioned as a hamburger stand. At the beginning, a “bottomless” cup of coffee would cost you a $0.10; the “businessmen’s lunch,” would cost one $0.99.
The restaurant was considerably larger than originally envisioned, the space divided almost equally between indoor dining room and outdoor patio. The tables were large and spacious with brightly colored deck chairs on the patio for a festive yet casual feel. Outdoor seating on the Cape is always at a premium and the patio was a popular place to feel the warm salty breeze while enjoying a meal.
Over the years, the Ridgevale Restaurant was at the center of intense discussions around such issues as banning smoking in restaurants, keeping liquor licenses while closed for the season, increased liquor license fees, landfill violations, competition for liquor licenses and the occasional breaking and entering.
The Chatham Rotary Club held their annual Scallop Festival at the Ridgevale Restaurant from 1986-1988.
It also supported the community by hosting the Chatham Rotary Club’s Annual Scallop Festival, the Chatham High School Band’s “Fish and Chips Festival,” and contributing towards the Fisherman’s Memorial at the Chatham Fish Pier. The Gilmartin’s even sold Christmas Trees during the holidays.
Perhaps an unofficial symbol of entering West Chatham, the restaurant could Perhaps an unofficial symbol of entering West Chatham, the restaurant could be immediately recognized by its bright, white “symbol,” a vintage 1929 Model A Ford parked near the front door. That beautiful vintage automobile signaled that the restaurant was open for the summer.
The 1999 real estate listing for the Ridgevale Restaurant.
In the 1990s, son Tom Gilmartin, took over the business before the decision was made to close and sell. Today, a 10-unit condominium complex, Ridgevale Cove, stands where the Ridgevale Restaurant and 1929 Model A Ford once stood.
