The intersection of Route 137 and Millstone Road, Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
by Jeff Shaw
Like many, I tend to take Millstone Road, the 2.5-mile residential road, when getting around in Brewster. The winding, somewhat scenic road, connects Route 137 near a Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) crossing and Route 6A across from the Sea Camp property (and near a different CCRT crossing). I say “somewhat scenic” because while many homes are set back from the road and separated naturally by trees, scrub pine and deep woods, the roadway lacks sweeping views of ocean, fresh water ponds, dunes or gardens that showcase the Cape’s natural beauty.
Also like me, you may have noticed some colorful lawn signs dotting the landscape along the shoulder of the road. The signs illustrate the battlelines of a multi-year campaign on the future of the road. Indeed, the opposing positions are: “Save Millstone Road,” i.e., preserve the “scenic” character of the road or “Sidewalks for Kids,” i.e., make the road more pedestrian-friendly for all users.
A Save Millstone Road lawn sign on Millstone Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
This hyperlocal political hot potato dates back to 2015, when the town adopted a Complete Streets policy, backed by $10 million in funding. Complete street policies intend to make roads more pedestrian and bike friendly. In Millstone Road’s case, the proposal included a five foot bike lane and five foot sidewalk, in addition to the 11 foot two-way vehicle travel lane. Just shy of $6 million is available for the project.
According to the Brewster Town Administer, almost 25 percent of the town lives on or off Millstone Road. So yeah, there are bound to be strong opinions worthy of signage.
Not living in Brewster, it is easy to say, build the dang bike lane/sidewalk already! And down with nimbyism! While tempting, I also understand homeowners worrying about paving over grassy areas, narrower driving lanes and having to double-check for passing bicycles and vehicles every time they turn into or out of, their driveway.
A Sidewalks for Kids lawn sign on Millstone Road. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
The town does have a Bikeways Committee, but the link is invalid to their Comprehensive Strategy. The plan, reviewed and approved by the Board of Selectman, probably provides additional context and/or economic and community benefit information.
Indeed, a quick glance at a Cape Cod Commission (CCC) map re: Biking in Brewster, suggests building the bike lane and sidewalk makes sense. Just look at this map.
Millstone Road is sandwiched (Cape town pun intended) between 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park (with its own 8-mile paved recreational trail network) and the 30+ mile Cape Cod Rail Trail, the majority of which runs through Brewster. Enabling more people to travel safely to these recreational areas (not to mention nearby Cape Cod Bay side beaches), is a benefit for residents and visitors.
Further, according to the CCC map, Millstone Road is already deemed a “Regional Bicycle Road,” albeit a dangerous one given the twists and turns of the shoulder-less road.
Having written much about biking on Cape Cod, I’m super biased. I say, build the dang bike lane/sidewalk! But be sure to maximize the “occasionally buffered grass strips” that would help preserve the character of Millstone Road, too.
Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.
During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever
It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula!
The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod.
The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.
Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.
One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.
Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.
Amenities
Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!
Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Crossings
There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.
The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Natural environment
You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.
Towns
Yarmouth
Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.
The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Dennis
The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.
A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Harwich
The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.
First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Brewster
Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.
The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Orleans
The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.
A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.
Eastham
The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty.
Wellfleet
The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.
It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.
Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors.
Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!
PopularTrails (The “Go To’s”)
The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.
Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.
The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.
Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects.
Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.
Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride.
Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.
Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.
The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.
Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected).
“Tucked Away”
Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.
Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!
The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.
Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.
“Peace and Quiet”
A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.
Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.
Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.
Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).
One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.
Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.
I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth; Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.
