Author’s Note: It just dawned on me that last month was the one-year anniversary of HappyCapeCod.com! I realized this because my first post was a Mother’s Day tribute, and here I find myself writing in the days leading up to Father’s Day. I’ve been lucky to have two incredible parents to guide, support, challenge and listen to me over the year, not to mention, introducing me to Cape Cod back in 1983 and providing a foundation of material for this website. For that, and so much more, thank you.
While I’m still experimenting with HappyCapeCod.com content, length, media and regularity, those 365+ days went by in a flash. It is true, time flies when you’re having fun. I also must thank Ellen, my better half, for being a sounding board, offering moral support and destructive, I mean constructive, criticism and going along for the ride. (Literally, I sometimes make abrupt stops driving around to take a picture, make a note or grab a flyer.) I look forward to learning more about the people, places, history and fun facts of all things Cape Cod as well as growing as a writer, editor and maybe, just maybe, a CMS know-it-all (Content Management System). Probably not the latter…Either way, we’re going to give year two a try. Let’s get to it.
With Memorial Day behind us, temperatures climbing and Cape League first pitches having been thrown, it means only one thing, summer on Cape Cod is here! In the spirit of spending every possible second outside, I’m going to highlight where to find waterfront dining on the Cape. Oddly, finding such places is not as easy as one would expect if you’ve visited other coastal communities. Even the 2019 Cape Cod Guide attests, “Surprisingly, restaurants with waterfront views on the Cape can be hard to find.” While true thanks to residential development and commercial land-use restrictions, there are some well known locations as well as hidden gems to enjoy a meal overlooking breaking waves, lazy rivers and bustling harbors. You just may need to be in the right place at the time. Queue Dr. John…
Bournedale
The Seafood Shanty (803 Scenic Highway, Route 6, Bournedale), is located across from the Herring Run Recreation Area, overlooking the Cape Cod Canal and the Sagamore Bridge. Originally a seasonal clam shack in the 1950s, the restaurant changed hands in 1992 with the current owners entering their 28th season running the restaurant and serving the “finest Native New England seafood.” The original building was demolished in 2000, with the current building operating as kitchen and take-out window, with ample outdoor picnic table and umbrella seating overlooking the canal. If the traffic whizzing along Route 6 is too distracting, just cross the road (carefully) and find a picnic table just above the bike trail next to the water.
Chatham
The Chatham Bars Inn (297 Shore Road, Chatham), is one of the most well known vacation destinations on the lower Cape, if not the entire peninsula. Built in 1914 as a semi-private hunting lodge for the elite, the Inn later operated as a farm and provided quality produce and dairy developing some reputation in the process. Fast forward to now, and the property recently underwent a $100 million renovation, elevating it to world-class accommodations, special events and dining. Indeed, the elite still flock to the Chatham Bars Inn. On summer weekends, there are always people in gowns and tuxedos crossing Shore Road between the hotel and the pavilion for weddings and other special events. But don’t let the black ties fool you, the beach bar is open to the public, as is the veranda just off the main dining room, both overlooking Chatham’s bustling inner harbor. Valet parking is the only option for both beach bar and dining room, unless you park on a side street and don’t mind walking a bit. My (our) most memorable time at the “Bars Inn” was celebrating our engagement with good friends, the Infurchia’s, who ordered not just one bottle of bubbly, but three along with two dozen oysters before dinner. Celebrate we did. Thankfully we did not have to go far to get home.
Dennis
Clancy’s Restaurant in Dennisport (8 Upper County Road, Dennisport), was one of the Shaw family “go-to” restaurants in the 1990s. (There was also a Clancy’s of West Yarmouth with different ownership that closed in 2008.) For as long as I can remember, Clancy’s was the place to go to impress friends and family visiting for an authentic taste of Cape Cod. Having dinner at Clancy’s was an experience. The dining room was always buzzing, warm bread arrived as water glasses were filled, all entrees included a side salad that could have been the meal. The portions of the seafood platters were stacked high and always required a doggie bag. Dessert was tempting, but we always passed and later found ice cream at Sundae School in Harwichport. While there was always a wait to be seated, the tables turned over quickly and the peaceful view of Swan River from the bridge made waiting not so bad. A recent experience at Clancy’s was a spontaneous and possibly ill advised one. Ellen and I biked the Cape Cod Rail Trail from Chatham’s Colony Trail extension all the way to the end in Dennis and then, out of the blue, thought to continue biking another 1.5 miles to Clancy’s for lunch. The ride back was torture as we were full and tired. Too bad Uber wasn’t around then.
Ocean House (425 Old Wharf Road, Dennisport), is a trendy, upscale restaurant complete with valet parking, loud dining room, and required reservations, overlooking Nantucket Sound. They even have an outdoor area with a Beach Bar and somewhat surprisingly, a late night menu. The first few times Ellen and I went there, the meals were off the chart. One particular evening, we did not want the meal to end and promptly ordered a round of chocolate martini’s for dessert. We had to stay until closing. It was that kind of meal. And then the next visit, abruptly, Ellen’s seafood bouillabaisse entree appeared with, like, three bay scallops, a crab leg, and one shrimp, for like $49 (not exaggerating too much). As expected, she asked, what the heck? The waitress proceeded to get into an unnecessarily long and loud verbal exchange. The manager tried to make things right with a round on the house, plus Ellen’s replacement dinner knocked off the bill, but the good vibe was shot. I understand everyone has a bad day, but, what the heck? I suppose the view may just be worth getting into a verbal exchange with the wait staff. Just make sure you’re seated early before the sun sets!
Sundancer’s (116 Main Street, Route 6, West Dennis), is literally a hidden gem because it’s blocked by buildings along Route 28. Sundancer’s is Beachcomber-light, without the drama, bumper stickers and a few more people in shoes and shirts, though boaters can dock outside the restaurant if they call ahead. The patio seating is always full, and the food is well above average for what some may assume is a dive bar. Our most recent visit was fresh off a -2 par winning performance at Skull Island Mini Golf during the first round of the Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters. You read that right, Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters, where our group of friends made-up this bragging rights tournament at four different courses along the mid, lower and outer Cape.)
Harwich
Brax Landing (705 Route 28, Harwich Port). For the last 42 years, Brax Landing has been the place to go to fuel up after a fishing trip, catch a game in the lively bar, or relax with a cocktail and view of Saquatucket Harbor from the patio. Their lobster roll platter is simply one of the best. Just ignore the seemingly endless number of cars in the parking lot and on the grass. Click here to read more about Brax Landing.
Hyannis
Black Cat Tavern, Harbor Shack and Raw Bar (165, 159 Ocean Street, Hyannis), is a casual waterfront restaurant located across from the docks of Hyannis Harbor. Like most waterfront restaurants, there is a mix of dining room and outdoor patio seating, both boosting coastal charm. We stumbled onto the Black Cat after a long drive from Connecticut. The “hangry pangs” kicked into fifth gear. The place was jammed – Friday nights in the summer usually are whereever you go – though we were seated at a table top in the bar quickly. Our table even had a peek-a-boo view of the harbor and the hundreds of tourists and locals walking by. A quart of steamers calmed our hunger and the haddock and baked stuffed shrimp entrees were exactly the recipe needed to make the remaining 25 minute drive home to Chatham.
Orleans
Formerly and legendary Liam’s Restaurant, located on Nauset Beach dunes, succumbed to erosion of the beach after multiple winter storms in 2017-2018 and was demolished in March, 2018. (A feature article on Liam’s is on my “to write list” as the pain of that loss has only begun to subside.) In Liam’s place, a set-up for multiple food trucks, four of which, called Nauset Beach home in the summer of 2018. Even though the combined revenue of the food trucks apparently generated half of what Liam’s paid the town, the plan is to give the food trucks another season to win over some customers. I have not yet eaten at any of the food trucks, but the view of “the Great Beach” can be seen for miles from the top of the Nauset dunes, so eventually I’ll try them.
Provincetown
The Canteen (225 Commercial Street, P-Town), operates out of a 200-year old building in the heart of the bustling city center of Provincetown. They proudly boast that everything is from scratch and local ingredients- lobsters and oysters especially – are used. Another charming feature, they only serve Cape Cod beers. With a bayside address, the Canteen features an enormous amount of outdoor seating in their “backyard” with a view of Cape Cod Bay. The awesomeness of their “backyard” cannot be overstated (the picture above does not do it justice). While our visit was a mid-day hot lobster roll and fish ‘n chips snack (one of the best lobster rolls we’ve had recently), I can only imagine how hopping the backyard gets in the evening.
Wellfleet
The Bookstore and Restaurant (50 Kendrick Avenue, Wellfleet), is a two-level restaurant (arguably three, with a basement bar called the Bomb Shelter), with stunning views of Wellfleet Harbor. Since 1964, three generations of the same family has operated the restaurant developing a loyal following and reputation in the process. Their shellfish comes right out of Wellfleet Bay, so if you watch the sunrise, you may see your meal get plucked out of the ocean! And yes, they also run a used bookstore, Oceans of Books by the Sea, a collection of second-hand books, antique books, rare books, magazines and comics. Fun, fun, fun.
The Beachcomber (1120 Cahoon Hollow Road, Wellfleet), the legendary and historical operation is beloved by many and known from coast to coast. (I even spotted the infamous light and dark blue wave “B” logo on a car bumper in Hawaii). The “Comah” was a former U.S. Lifesaving Station before the U.S. Coast Guard was established. The property also had a few cottages that served as housing for those on duty. Sadly, time and the elements led to the demolition of the original structures, but replaced they were, and now the Beachcomber rents out two cottages for a cool $2,500-3,000 per week. While the party can end late at the restaurant and bar, waking up to the sound of breaking waves in the distance and cool morning breeze may just be enough to rejuvenate you after a late night. Parking is extremely limited, with about 10 spaces for Wellfleet residents only and about 100 spaces for visitors which are usually full by 9:30am on a summer Saturday. The good news, the $20 parking sticker becomes a voucher/credit that can be used for food (only) at the restaurant. I’ve had too many adventures at the Beachcomber to count, so I’ll just say that everyone should add it to their Cape Cod bucket list — especially, if you are 21+.
I’ve also heard good things about the Orleans Waterfront Inn with views of Nauset Harbor in Orleans and Sesuit Harbor Cafe with views of Northside Marina in Dennis. What is your favorite Waterfront Dining on Cape Cod?