The funky sign welcomes weary travelers. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Author’s Note: After finishing a delicious fried scallop plate from Mac’s on the Pier in Wellfleet, I followed Kendrick Avenue west away from busy harbor and rounded the bend to a most welcome sight. Summer Winds Cottages, a noticeable cottage community with a similar theme…Jimmy Buffett. The half-dozen or so cottages are all named after a Jimmy Buffett song, and represent another example of Wellfleet’s fun vibe as the place to be. Beaches, bars, boats, and dare I say ballards? Parrotheads will appreciate the reference. The cottage, Stars on the Water, is available to rent. If Porchfest extends to these cottages, I wonder what songs will be played…
Classic vanilla soft serve puts a smile on my face (every time). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Soft Serve at Bob’s Sub & Cone
Soft serve vanilla ice cream is my favorite summer dessert. Okay, okay, summer time snack, sometimes playing the role of dessert. Stemming from surprise visits of the neighborhood ice cream truck, to well earned (behaved) ice cream breaks during a day on the beach, to elaborate and decadent ice cream sundae birthday “cakes” at Thompon’s Clam Bar, my love of ice cream blossomed. Those experiences built the foundation of which my ice cream obsession stands firm. Admitedly, I just don’t get the same enjoyment scooping ice cream out of a tub in the freezer. Fresh, outside under sunny skies, summer time is ice cream time.
Freshly “pulled” soft serve on a sugar cone (or the hard stuff scooped into a waffle cone), is simply the perfect treat on a summer day. I’m constantly on the look-out for soft serve ice cream spots when traveling across and around the Cape, as I do for solid clam chowder finds.
Much to my dismay, not every “Sundae School” offers soft serve ice cream. But those that do, get my attention. After a rousing round of mini golf, our friends Matt and Kate introduced us to Bob’s Sub & Cone, a seasonal, family-run, take-out only restaurant in Wellfleet. The almost 40-year old establishment owned and operated by Bob and Cathy Nelson is located on Route 6; on the side of the Cape Cod Rail Trail, making a quick stop super convenient.
The signs hanging off the counter provide a little humor during a stressful time. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The crazy looking baker logo on the restaurant’s sign paints an accurate picture of the vibe. Upon a recent visit, and in context to social distancing practices, the signs on the counter read, “Masks required, clothing optional,” with a picture of two people in bathing suits. Another sign read, “stand wicked fah apart,” paying homage to the “summah” accent. But perhaps most noticeable about Bob’s Sub n Cone is the size and variety of the menu.
The family-centered restaurant menu has everything from classic fried seafood to baked lasagna, pizza, subs, tacos, fried chicken and steak tips! And of course, the ice cream.
A little about the ice cream. It’s not just any ice cream, but world class Gifford’s Famous Ice Cream. With origins in the 1800s, Giffords ice cream has thrived through five generations. Nowadays, the company offers 100 unique flavors and sells 1.7 million gallons of ice cream every summer. Fortunately, a few of those gallons are available at Bob’s, so even if you’re not a fan of soft serve, you have plenty of ice cream options.
Summer Wind Cottages are named after Jimmy Buffett songs. Hard not to love the neighborhood vibe. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.
During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever
It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula!
The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod.
The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.
Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.
One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.
Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.
Amenities
Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!
Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Crossings
There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.
The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Natural environment
You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.
Towns
Yarmouth
Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.
The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Dennis
The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.
A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Harwich
The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.
First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Brewster
Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.
The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Orleans
The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.
A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.
Eastham
The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty.
Wellfleet
The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.
It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.
The Vineyard Summer Drive-In Series logo. Photo credit: The YMCA of Martha’s Vineyard.
Author’s Note: With the upcoming holiday weekend upon us, the unofficial start to summer is here. Oh joy! Just don’t watch the news. Ugh! One step forward, ten steps back it seems. Organizers who decided to pull the plug early on 4th of July parades, fireworks, band concerts, etc, made the right call, as unpopular as it was, since people from states with surging COVID-19 cases would surely wind up in Cape crowds this weekend. Of course, there are new cases each day on the Cape, and the rest of New England, too, but at the moment, less than other hot spots. But let’s stay positive.
The holiday weekend is also marked by American flags flying proudly from many homes, buildings and attractions. Fences and rooftops display decorative bunting that screams patriotism of the red, white and blue. The smell of the classic backyard BBQ, the grilled meat, steamy corn and buttery potatoes wafting through the air remains a much anticipated tradition, even if it is BYOF (food). Just don’t forget about another classic, yet new (in some places) tradition that will also get you out of the house this summer…the Drive-In Theater!
The parking lot at this Hyannis intersection will be transformed – by inflatable screen – into a drive-in movie theater on Fridays this summer. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
The “Drive-In” Comeback
I find myself occasionally yearning for a simpler time, where constant smartphone “dings,” excessive picture-taking and loud phone calls often interfere with a perfectly fine moment. And that’s just from five minutes ago in my living room! The Cape offers that mix of the high-speed “modern era”; eclectic restaurant menus, second and third home mega mansions, 5K road race fund-raisers; as well as that simpler, quieter “classic era”; waterfront cottage communities, weather-worn clam shacks, ice cream sundaes (okay, timeless), and of course, Drive-In movie theaters.
The “Drive-In” is roaring back to relevance – from Connecticut to Cape Cod – as it is meets the criteria of an outdoor and socially distanced activity. Hooray! While the pandemic has not completely flipped the script of streaming movies from the comfort of the couch, to sitting in a car to do the exact same thing, it is a welcome change of pace, with a limited (seasonal) window.
I have a fond memory of sitting in the bed of a pick-up truck strewn with two sets of couch cushions, blankets, with half a dozen friends and a full cooler. The first movie was Alien, second Indian Jones and the Temple of Doom. A hint of crisp fall air would keep the senses sharp on an otherwise warm late summer evening. The stars were shining, not a cloud in the sky. The parking lot was barely half-full. Looking back, what a moment. While that description of a low-key college night may not be the case for your next drive-in movie experience — as hundreds of friends, neighbors and strangers may clamor for those coveted parking spaces — it does serve as a reminder that the simple things in life often can be quite fulfilling, even in a pandemic.
Below is your one-stop shop for “driving-in” this summer on Cape Cod:
The dirt road and grassy field will be the home to a stage, two screens and lots of vehicles this summer. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Barnstable (Hyannis)
“Movies on Main” – Located at the corner of Main Street and High School Road (across from 473 Main Street), this temporary Drive-In will feature family-friendly movies on an inflatable screen for six consecutive Friday nights beginning on July 3 from 7:15 – 11:00 pm. Admission is $20 per vehicle, with room for between 40-50 vehicles within social distancing guidelines. Attendees are encouraged to order food from downtown restaurants, some of which will deliver to your car! Most importantly, proceeds from the first three weeks will benefit the Cape Cod Resilience Fund, and proceeds from the last three weeks will benefit the Hyannis Film Festival.
Martha’s Vineyard
Vineyard Summer Drive-in – Located at 91 Edgartown Vineyard Haven Road, Oaks Bluff, the Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival (MVFF) and Martha’s Vineyard YMCA are partnering to bring the island The Vineyard’s Summer Drive-In. The YMCA plans to screen four family-friendly movies each week starting in early July and will run through August. The parking lot behind the Martha’s Vineyard Ice Arena will hold between 40-50 cars. Organizers are seeking sponsors (and reminding potential donors their gift is tax deductible) as the cost to attend is “pay what you can,” understanding the financial hardship the pandemic caused for many people. Organizers do not have plans to continue the drive-in after this year, so be sure to check it out this summer.
Nantucket
The Dreamland Drive-In at Bartlett’s Farm – Located at 7 Nobadeer Farm Road, Nantucket’s Nonprofit Film & Cultural Center (Dreamland) is having its Grand Opening tonight featuring Jaws! The show is already sold out. Check out this strong list of upcoming shows: Jaws, Ghostbusters, Caddyshack, Mama Mia, Twister, Empire Strikes Back, The Goonies, The Shining, Easy Rider, The Birds, and more! Members receive a discount on ticket purchases, otherwise, it is $15 for one person in one vehicle, or $30 for two or more people in a vehicle (not including member discount).
The vintage sign of the one and only Wellfleet Drive-In. Photo credit: Wellfleet Drive-In.
Sandwich
Heritage Theater – Located at 280 Route 130 in Sandwich, the recently painted (white) side of the Heritage Theater building will act as a screen, with a realigned parking lot to face that side of the building. The “new-addition” Drive-In opened on June 26 with a double-feature, the first movie (PG-13 rating) at 8:30 pm; second beginning at 10:30 pm, with plans for showings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Admission is $15 per person, with $12 pricing for seniors, military and children above three years old.
Truro
Payomet Performing Arts Center “Drive-In” Series – Located at 29 Dewline Road, North Truro, the powers that be are exploring a series of drive-in style outdoor concerts for this summer. While all previously announced performances for their traditional summer series have been postponed until 2021, this “drive-in” series seeks to feature local and regional talent while maintaining social distancing guidelines. Artists will perform a variety of genres geared more to listening than dancing, such as blues, folks, and jazz. The latest information will be posted to the center’s Facebook page, so stay “tuned” (music pun intended).
Wellfleet
Wellfleet Drive-in Theater – Located at 51 Route 6 in Wellfleet, the classic, seasonal Wellfleet Drive-In is one of the most well-known landmarks on the Outer Cape. First opened in 1957, catching a double-feature is a right of passage for residents and visitors alike. Admission is $13.00, with discounts for seniors and children. Current show times are 8:35 pm; and 10:20 pm (PG-13 ratings). Of note, the Provincetown International Film Festival announced a special drive-in event hosted by the Wellfleet Drive-In, as part of their modified 2020 film festival. Dubbed “Provincetown Reimagined,” the special event will run from July 16-19 with two nights of film screenings including Mischa Richter’s documentary “I Am a Town” and Sundance 2020 Dramatic Award nominee “Save Yourselves!” at the Wellfleet Drive-In along with a virtual event of which details are TBA.
Don’t sleep on a potential “Drive-In” outdoor concert series later this summer. Photo credit: Payomet Performing Arts Center.
Yarmouth
West Yarmouth Drive In – Located at 669 Route 28 in West Yarmouth (across from Captain Parker’s Pub), the site of a former drive-in that screened outdoor movies from 1958 until 1985 will be re-born after the town approved an entertainment license on June 30. The current plan is to build a stage for outdoor performances (concerts, stand-up comedy, etc), flanked by two outdoor movie screens. The blighted 22-acre property has enough space for just shy of 250 vehicles, while maintaining social distancing guidelines. The same family friendly movie would play on both screens and a double-feature would be offered for $30 per vehicle. Concessions would also be available in some capacity, but all payment would be made remotely. If all goes to plan, movies could be screened by mid-July, August and even into the “shoulder season.”
