The picture-perfect view of Wychmere Harbor from Route 28. The former clam bar is the long building located middle right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.
Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!
Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Pinterest.com.
Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…
…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn.
A 1992 ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.
After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.
Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families.
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy.
While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.
The former Thompson’s Clam Bar from the Wychmere Harbor entrance. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy.
In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace.
A nautically-themed lunch menu featuring Thompson’s Special Cape Cod Clam Chowder. Photo credit: KJ Blaque.
In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club.
As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor.
One of many birthdays celebrated at Thompson’s Clam Bar. I vividly remember the ice cream scoop sundae even though I’m enjoying cake this time. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
The colorful and clean signage attracts visitors to this must stop ice cream shop! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: It is hard to believe another Labor Day weekend is upon us. Yet here it is. As written before, it is HappyCapeCod company policy to keep “summah” alive until at least September 22, when the autumnal equinox occurs. As a reminder, the equinox is the time when day and night are of equal length, in this case, marking the start of fall. But before then and with the Labor Day weekend forecast projecting low 80s and upper 70s and sunshine, let’s all bask in the joy of summer a little longer.
Thank you summer for helping me cope with this otherwise horrible time in world history. The water, the sand, the breeze, the trees soothed. Outdoor visits allowed visits with family and friends. In time, I hope the fall foliage, fresh snowfall and eventual spring blossoms, will provide similar opportunities, appreciation and renewal.
Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe, Sandwich
“Putting smiles on the face of those in our local communities is our primary goal.” I’m constantly looking for ways to smile; ice cream will do the trick.
Timed this stop perfectly with no line! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Tucked away on bustling Route 6A, the slower east to west thoroughfare spanning the charming northern side of the Cape spanning from Sandwich to Orleans, near the Sagamore Bridge is an ice cream shop. If you drive too fast around the bend (heading east), you will likely miss it. Yet in between the nearby landmarks of the Sagamore Inn and the British Beer Company (Sandwich location), is the must-STOP Twin Acres Ice Cream SHOPPE. (Rhyme intended.)
Despite being located off a busy main road, the Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe property is a bright, clean and well-manicured two [twin] acres (get it?). As the story goes, it all started in the mid-1970s, in a one-car garage, next to a cottage community built after World War II. In 1990, the business was redesigned to offer customers a park-like setting with lush gardens of dogwoods, hydrangeas, daisies, roses, lily’s and more, beneath old-growth shade trees. There is ample seating behind the building, which reduces the noise of the busy road and bustling parking lot.
Ellen patiently waits to order an appropriate distance from other customers. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
While ice cream is the main attraction, Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe also offers lobster rolls, sausages and hot dogs, with the essential side of Cape Cod potato chips. But back to the ice cream. They offer over 70 flavors that includes premium hard, soft serve, sorbet, sherbert, vegan and sugar-free ice cream. (The popular seasonal peach ice cream (big chunks) sold out for the season on August 23.) Non-dairy frozen options of mango, raspberry or lemon sorbets are also available. Even vegan ice cream, coconut-based, is available – vanilla, strawberry, chocolate and cookies and cream. There are also milk shakes, specialty sundaes and dog friendly “pup cups” with a dog biscuit, to ensure everyone in the family has something to enjoy.
Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe actively supports local community projects. You may notice collection boxes for diapers and baby wipes for families in need, through the Help a Baby Center. They also provide gift cards for police departments to reward children seen “doing the right thing” in their communities. They sponsor the Rotary Club of Osterville’s Good Works Fund to support local nonprofits and the Jimmy Fund, raising money for cancer research.
Sometimes just a simple cup of vanilla soft serve is all you need! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
With my Upper Cape time limited, the typical move is to swing by Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe on the way off Cape, the last, sweet taste of Cape Cod before heading back to the mainland. Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe is located a mere 3 minutes from the Sagamore Bridge, so stop by on your next trip on or off Cape Cod!
An early photograph of the seasonal, take-out only restaurant from 1968. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.
Author’s Note: Looking back at over fifty posts in two years, a noticeable pattern emerged. I like to eat – and Cape Cod is a great place to dine. Restaurant reviews, pictures of plates and a recipe or two, dominates HappyCapeCod.com, and a full stomach may help explain my “Happy Cape Cod” experience. While most food-related content features popular or new restaurants pumping out business, a couple articles, dubbed ‘Throwback Thursdays,” were fun stories and short histories of a few favorite restaurants no longer in operation.
I’ve decided to embrace the “throwback” theme, re-launching that series. Now dubbed the “Lost Restaurant Series,” tell tales of favorite lost restaurants of Lower Cape Cod. These establishments, many with a strong local followings in their heyday, were the home to vivid childhood memories; birthday celebrations, secret ice cream stops and special events.
Most of the restaurants that come to mind ended their runs while I was a young, so my recollection of their existence is limited to memories of myself, family and friends, old newspaper articles, and grainy photographs. Initial conversations with my parents have morphed into heated debates about menus, uneven tables, original nautical decor (versus cheap knockoffs found in box stores) and delightful radio jingles. I’ve reached out a former owners or their family members, but have yet to connect.
While most lost restaurants in mind are not historical or ever sniffed a “five star rating,” they lasted longer than most (at least a five year run) and made an impression on my family.
Enjoy a trip down memory lane – the lost restaurant edition.
Sea in the Rough, 1077 Main Street, Chatham (Also formerly known as Marley’s Restaurant, Longshore, and now Knot’s Landing)
An artists rendering of Sea in the Rough Restaurant. Photo credit: HipPostcard.
The story of Sea in the Rough Restaurant started in 1966, with the Eldridge Family. Mr. Oren Leon Eldridge and his wife, Mrs. Nancy Jane Eldridge, along with their four daughters, opened the small, seasonal take-out only restaurant at the 1077 Main Street Chatham location on weekends during the summer.
The early menu of the restaurant consisted of true summer favorites; hotdogs, hamburgers, seafood plates, fried clams and other short order foods. A patio with picnic tables allowed diners to not just enjoy their food fresh and outside, but also to “come as you are” (i.e., sandy and wet), likely from the beach, boat or golf course. The seasonal restaurant took phone orders, even boasting the use of special wrapping to ensure the food remained hot. But the Eldridge family did not stay in the restaurant business for long.
In 1972, the Eldridge family sold the business to Helen and Frank H. Tobin, who would go on to become long-time owners. The new owners attracted more business by expanding the small, take-out only business into a full service restaurant, with indoor dining, an outdoor patio, take-out and larger menu (“from King Neptune’s Garden”).
Advertisement in the Cape Cod Chronicle from 1973. Photo Credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.
Expansion led to people from all over the Cape pronouncing Sea in the Rough as “one of the finest eating places to be found anywhere in the area.” The dining room was decorated with captains tables and chairs with an open, airy, comfortable vibe. The outside patio also had ample seating under yellow umbrellas. The term “Meet me at Sea in the Rough” became commonplace.
Frank was active in the community. He was a member of the Chatham Rotary Club, and hosted the Annual Scallop Fest at Sea in the Rough from 1976-1985. He was also an avid runner, having sponsored and organized the Chatham Harbor Run for decades. For years, race t-shirts for participants were distributed at the restaurant. It probably comes as no surprise to learn Frank closed the restaurant early the night of the Annual Town Meeting so he (and other residents) could attend (participate in local affairs).
In the summer of 1986, Sea in the Rough launched a Sunday Brunch consisting of coffee, danish, fresh fruit bar, juice and one of the following entrees eggs benedict, lobster quiche, prime rib and eggs, seafood crepes, chicken a la king and omelet du jour.
Marley’s Restaurant as it appeared in a real estate listing. Photo credit: Realtor.com
By the late 1980s, it was time for a change and the Tobin’s needed a successor. It did not take long to find one. Tammy DePasquale worked in the restaurant and her husband David, was a regular at the counter. The DePasquale’s assumed the role of new owners. The menu continued to feature freshly caught fish from Chatham fishermen, of the fried, broiled, and baked variety. There was even a 10-ounce strip steak for the carnivores, a children’s menu and head-turning desserts, such as Boston creme pie, key lime pie, and banana splits.
By the mid-1990s, many of the 37 employees not only lived nearby, but started working there at age 14 in the take-out area, later “graduating” to servers in the dining room.
In 1998, Audrey and William Gray, who ran the Bradford Inn & Champlain Restaurant for 23 years, purchased the Sea in the Rough Restaurant and re-opened it as Marley’s Restaurant. The restaurant, named after their family cat literally kept the family friendly atmosphere previously built…their children Rob and daughter Lara were chefs. Marley’s had a 15-year run until it was purchased by Robert and Roz DeLong of Eastham in 2012.
The 1077 Main Street restaurant in August, 2018. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The DeLongs opened Longshore in 2012, which enjoyed a 7-year run. Due the declining health of Robert DeLong, the business was sold to Philip and Sophia Malita of New England Pizza fame.
In 2019, Phil and Sophia opened Knot’s Landing Bar & Grill. With an expiring lease on the pizza restaurant down the road, they decided to merge the pizza business into Knot’s Landing Bar & Grill. The result, an Italian, Greek seafood restaurant, which remains open to the present day (2020).
The funky sign welcomes weary travelers. Photo credit: Ellen Shaw.
Author’s Note: After finishing a delicious fried scallop plate from Mac’s on the Pier in Wellfleet, I followed Kendrick Avenue west away from busy harbor and rounded the bend to a most welcome sight. Summer Winds Cottages, a noticeable cottage community with a similar theme…Jimmy Buffett. The half-dozen or so cottages are all named after a Jimmy Buffett song, and represent another example of Wellfleet’s fun vibe as the place to be. Beaches, bars, boats, and dare I say ballards? Parrotheads will appreciate the reference. The cottage, Stars on the Water, is available to rent. If Porchfest extends to these cottages, I wonder what songs will be played…
Classic vanilla soft serve puts a smile on my face (every time). Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Soft Serve at Bob’s Sub & Cone
Soft serve vanilla ice cream is my favorite summer dessert. Okay, okay, summer time snack, sometimes playing the role of dessert. Stemming from surprise visits of the neighborhood ice cream truck, to well earned (behaved) ice cream breaks during a day on the beach, to elaborate and decadent ice cream sundae birthday “cakes” at Thompon’s Clam Bar, my love of ice cream blossomed. Those experiences built the foundation of which my ice cream obsession stands firm. Admitedly, I just don’t get the same enjoyment scooping ice cream out of a tub in the freezer. Fresh, outside under sunny skies, summer time is ice cream time.
Freshly “pulled” soft serve on a sugar cone (or the hard stuff scooped into a waffle cone), is simply the perfect treat on a summer day. I’m constantly on the look-out for soft serve ice cream spots when traveling across and around the Cape, as I do for solid clam chowder finds.
Much to my dismay, not every “Sundae School” offers soft serve ice cream. But those that do, get my attention. After a rousing round of mini golf, our friends Matt and Kate introduced us to Bob’s Sub & Cone, a seasonal, family-run, take-out only restaurant in Wellfleet. The almost 40-year old establishment owned and operated by Bob and Cathy Nelson is located on Route 6; on the side of the Cape Cod Rail Trail, making a quick stop super convenient.
The signs hanging off the counter provide a little humor during a stressful time. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The crazy looking baker logo on the restaurant’s sign paints an accurate picture of the vibe. Upon a recent visit, and in context to social distancing practices, the signs on the counter read, “Masks required, clothing optional,” with a picture of two people in bathing suits. Another sign read, “stand wicked fah apart,” paying homage to the “summah” accent. But perhaps most noticeable about Bob’s Sub n Cone is the size and variety of the menu.
The family-centered restaurant menu has everything from classic fried seafood to baked lasagna, pizza, subs, tacos, fried chicken and steak tips! And of course, the ice cream.
A little about the ice cream. It’s not just any ice cream, but world class Gifford’s Famous Ice Cream. With origins in the 1800s, Giffords ice cream has thrived through five generations. Nowadays, the company offers 100 unique flavors and sells 1.7 million gallons of ice cream every summer. Fortunately, a few of those gallons are available at Bob’s, so even if you’re not a fan of soft serve, you have plenty of ice cream options.
Summer Wind Cottages are named after Jimmy Buffett songs. Hard not to love the neighborhood vibe. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.
During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever
It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula!
The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod.
The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.
Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.
One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.
Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.
Amenities
Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!
Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Crossings
There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.
The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Natural environment
You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.
Towns
Yarmouth
Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.
The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Dennis
The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.
A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Harwich
The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.
First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Brewster
Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.
The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Orleans
The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.
A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.
Eastham
The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty.
Wellfleet
The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.
It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.
