Category: Places

Tower Tour Part 1: Jenny Lind Tower

By Mike Shaw

The narrow footpath to the mysterious Jenny Lind Tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

“I’m going on an adventure!”  Just one week before Christmas, and channeling my inner Bilbo Baggins (you know, for the kids), I decided to take advantage of a (voluntary) two week self-quarantine to explore part of the Outer Cape which could provide a memorable yet socially distant experience.  Upon receiving a suggested itinerary from my brother, Jeff (editor and founder of this very website), I hopped in the car in Chatham and worked my way east along Route 6 to North Truro.  Besides the well-marked Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod, I wasn’t familiar with the expansive list of sites located along this historic highway.  These spots are readily accessible to the public yet seemingly hidden from those visitors unaware of the rich history of this “bent elbow jutting into the Atlantic.”  The destination:  Jenny Lind Tower, a stone tower located within the Truro Highlands Historic District and nearby the North Truro Air Force Station. 

A view of the Jenny Lind Tower in the distance from Old Dewline Road. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Before hitting the road, I conducted a preliminary Google search to confirm what the Tower looked like to expedite my upcoming quest. Directions for the approximately 30-mile journey from the Lower Cape are straightforward: take Route 6 East towards North Truro, right on South Highland Road, right onto Old Dewline Road, and Tower is on your left.  Simple, right?  While these directions are certainly accurate, it’s best to consider the old adage that “the devil is in the details.”  Once on foot from Old Dewline Road, the walk towards the Tower among the surrounding woods is quite pleasant.  At the end of Old Dewline Road, in addition to the sprawling grounds of the Payomet Performing Arts Center on the right, you’ll find three trails on the left as possible options to reach the Tower.  Now the fun begins!

The National Park Service signage of the area. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

As it’s not initially obvious which path leads towards the Tower, I’d like to announce a spoiler alert! Based on my own experience, the second path (or “Door Number Two”) appears to be the best option to reach the Tower.  The first path leads to a dead end road which is currently home to a maintenance facility, and the third one brings you towards the Air Force Station which is (unsurprisingly) restricted to U.S. Government personnel.  While the second path is a tad uneven and gently rolls up-and-down, it will bring you alongside the secure fence of the Air Force Station, and the Tower will appear much closer to you along the Western horizon.  Surrounding the Tower is a wooded area which, at first glance, doesn’t appear to have a clear footpath for those making the trek.  After several failed attempts, I slowly walked along this wooded area and discovered a narrow path wide enough for one foot at a time; literally.  Within three minutes (and after being whacked a few times by tree branches), I found myself at the base of the Tower and immediately marvelled at its simple yet unmistakable beauty.  While it may lack common tourist features, like a Welcome Center, signage or gift shop, a fascinating history surrounds the Tower and the woman after which it is named.

A view from the first floor looking up into the well-worn inner walls. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

Based on myriad open sources, Jenny Lind was a world famous, Swedish-born soprano singer who toured throughout the United States in the mid-19th century.  According to a January 2017 publication on CapeCod.com:  “It is around this time that Lind’s connection to Cape Cod begins.  Though she would not step foot on the peninsula, the tower that bears her name is indeed intertwined with her legacy.  In early October of 1850, Lind would perform a show in Boston at one of the largest auditoriums in New England at the time.  The popular myth is that the concert Jenny Lind performed at the depot in Boston was oversold with countless fans being left outside of the auditorium.  These fans were understandably angry and were on the verge of causing a riot. In order to quell the masses, Lind is purported to have stepped out into one of the two stone towers of the building and sang to the crowd from one of the turrets.”  (Link to January 2017 Cape Cod.com publication:  https://www.capecod.com/lifestyle/the-story-of-the-jenny-lind-tower/)

A rotted wall (or doorway?) on the first level of the tower. Photo credit: Mike Shaw.

While this historical account may never be proven, it’s hard not to be captivated by the notion of someone using innate gifts and talents to defuse a potentially dangerous moment for the masses – in fact, total strangers – gathered below.  As I learned more about Jenny Lind’s story, it turns out that she encountered some competition from another bit of Cape Cod folklore.  According to Bellamy’s Bride:  The Search for Maria Hallett of Cape Cod by Kathleen Brunele(2010):  “Local stories passed down for 300 years say that the ghost of Goody Hallett – known as “the Witch of Wellfleet”, “the Sea Witch of Eastham”, and “the Red Heeled Witch”, and was the lover of Samuel Bellamy, captain of the pirate ship Whydah Gally – haunts the woods of Truro and Wellfleet in central Cape Cod.  Her banshee screams can be heard at sunset from the cliffs of Wellfleet as she curses the passing ships to cause them to wreck there as her lover Sam Bellamy did in 1717.  Legends say that when Goody Hallett begins her haunting, the ghost of Jenny Lind once again ascends the tower to sing, and the beauty of her nightingale song repels Goody and frightens her away.”

Fitchberg Depot. Photo credit: Boston Public Library. Photo originally posted on CapeCod.com by Christopher Setterlund.

In a mythical sense, more than 170 years after Jenny Lind first rose to fame, one can hope and imagine that her indomitable spirit continues to live on not only within the Tower, but across the surrounding lands which will forever be connected to this distinctly Cape Cod legend.

Lost Restaurant Series: Fleming’s Restaurant

Flemings Restaurant, 2175 Main Street, South Chatham (also formerly Chatham Seafood House; Meservey’s Family Restaurant)

A vintage postcard of Flemings Restaurant. Photo credit: Atwood House & Museum.

“The place many wish they had found sooner.” 

In 1961, the Fleming family decided to open a restaurant. Indeed, it was a family operation with father owner and general manager, son chef; and wife and daughter filling in where needed. Of all the members of the family, son Gene had more experience in the business having worked at both the Port Fortune Restaurant and the Wayside Inn in Chatham.

Flemings Restaurant was a seasonal establishment, as father Harold also worked in the real estate business. During a typical season, the 80-seat restaurant (later 120 seats) was opened every day of the week from June to Labor Day with long hours of 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. The restaurant employed twenty-six people, mostly college students earning money before returning to school in the fall.  

A newspaper ad from the 1980s. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

The menu consisted of house specialties, fresh native seafoods, either broiled or fried, and purchased in Chatham “as they come off the boats.” Broiled steaks were another specialty, with guests selecting tenderloin, sirloin or a “special” steak. Lovers of Cape Cod Clam Chowder found a tasty and delicious native “stew.” Perhaps most memorable was the homemade cranberry nut bread, sourced locally. 

In 1982, Herb and Dot Bremser of Chatham purchased the restaurant and renamed it Chatham Seafood House. Though, the name Flemings remained on the restaurant’s large sign adjacent to Route 28. The restaurant business was new to the Bremsers. Herb Bremser spent 38 years working on jet engines at Pratt and Whitney Aircraft in East Hartford, Connecticut, before retiring to Cape Cod. The restaurant was a second career as he ended up operating Flemings Chatham Seafood House, for over 25 years. 

Chef William Hynes in front of the restaurant sign adjacent to Route 28. Photo credit: Maureen Grady.

Perhaps the most noticeable change to the restaurant was the “Isobar,” a full liquor lounge featuring weather-related charts on the wall, barometers and flags, and of course, the weather channel on the bar’s television. Indeed, isobar – the lines of equal barometric pressure seen on weather maps – was not just a pun. The weather theme was incorporated into the updated menu with dishes like Chicken Thunder, Gale Warning Sole, Shore Break Crab Cakes, and others.

In 2007, Doug Meservey (and wife Dawn) purchased the restaurant. The Meserveys spent decades in the racing world and promptly re-named the restaurant’s bar with a NASCAR-theme; the Pit Stop. The bar decor featured vintage photographs of Chatham’s former race track that once featured dune buggy races in the 1960s and 1970s. During the summer season, the restaurant hosted car shows with the Cape Cod Cruisers Thursday nights from 6:00-8:00 p.m.

Former Meservey’s Family Restaurant. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

In 2013, the 1.36-acre property was purchased by the Town of Chatham for open space with Community Preservation Act funds. The land is designated Cockle Cove Creek Headwaters Reforestation Project, which creates a continuous green corridor along this stretch of Main Street, while restoring wildlife habitat and protecting water quality by stabilizing soils and absorbing excess nutrients.

Only the driveway remains of the former restaurant. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Beanstock Coffee

Author’s Note: Happy Sno-vember! Yes, the pre-Halloween snowfall in much of the northeast has me dreaming for an early winter wonderland. My passion for winter is baked into skiing, which can be understood by listening to my skiing podcast, Powder Hounds Podcast, featuring mostly northeast ski areas, with a particular interest in the smaller, family and independently run hills. It can also be read in a previous post talking about skiing on Cape Cod!

While the cold days and early darkness of winter can be tough for continuing to enjoy the outdoors;  layer up and get the gear to explore (snowshoes, skis, skins, etc). It also may be helpful to get your mind thinking of the “cozy” aspects of winter; hot chocolate, crackling fireplaces, warm blankets and the simple joys of tastes, smells and sights of the holidays. Another hot beverage – coffee – is a must for many on a wintery morning. Opt for locally roasted Beanstock for that next cup ‘o joe!

Beanstock Coffee, Eastham

As I happily admitted previously, I’m a little picky when it comes to coffee. I don’t mean to be, but I’ve tasted the highest of highs; coffee roasted perfectly, steaming with flavor, served immediately; to the lowest of the lows, lukewarm diner slop brewed hours ago, left on a low heat burner. Like many things in life, once you experience the best, it’s hard to go back to anything less. That brings me to our featured local business and their product – Beanstock Coffee. Full disclosure, I am a happy repeat customer with a recurring subscription.

Support local! Photo credit: Beanstock Coffee.

But before going full-on auto-renew subscription, I discovered Beanstock by visiting local cafes for “joe to go” and scanning shelves while waiting. In an earlier post, Coffee on Cape Cod, I mentioned Beth’s Bakery (Sandwich), Chatham Cookware & Cafe (Chatham) and Savory & Sweet Escape (Truro), and inadvertently referenced just three of at least three dozen restaurants and cafes spanning not just Cape Cod, but the continental United States, that feature Beanstock Coffee. (You read that right; thanks L.A.!)

For the customer, the reason is obvious, the coffee tastes great and the seemingly endless range of blends and flavors (light-decaf gamit), types (organic, fair trade, cold brew, etc) and grinds (whole bean, drip grind, fine grind, etc) are available. Indeed, at twenty-three blends available for purchase online, it’s an impressive portfolio. Even the merchandise is fun; “Ommph.”

Lots of good vibe swag available at their Roasting Facility in Eastham. Photo credit: Beanstock Coffee.

Beanstock Coffee was born in 1996 as a small coffee shop tucked into the Inn at Duck Creek on Main St. in Wellfleet. The smell of freshly brewed coffee and freshly baked goods wafting through the air attracted the first customers. Since those early days, Beanstock has grown not just as a specialty coffee roaster, but as an internet retailer and coffee wholesaler. They roast their coffee locally, in small batches, to guarantee maximum freshness. Their commitment to top quality, fair trade and organically grown beans is evident in their messaging. In non-pandemic times, you can tour their roasting facility in Eastham.

Each package of coffee is brimming with good vibes; both the beans inside and the advice on the outside. The team at Beanstock “is always curious and ever-evolving with the beautiful and fascinating world of coffee.” On the side panel of their packaging, you’ll find Beanstock’s signature tagline, “Coffee is Personal” with some suggestions to brewing your best cup at home. One line that stays with me, “Buy in small batches, and only what you’ll use in a week or two [to maximize freshness]. They rather you buy less coffee per transaction, to prevent multiple packages of beans/ground from getting stale in the cupboard. I like that. 

If you have not yet had Beanstock Coffee, you must give it a try. After all, it’s easy to find. 

Lost Restaurant Series: Thompson’s Clam Bar

The picture-perfect view of Wychmere Harbor from Route 28. The former clam bar is the long building located middle right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.

Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!

Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port

A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Pinterest.com.

Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…

…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn. 

A 1992 ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.

After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.  

Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families. 

A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.

The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy. 

While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.  

The former Thompson’s Clam Bar from the Wychmere Harbor entrance. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.

The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy. 

In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace. 

A nautically-themed lunch menu featuring Thompson’s Special Cape Cod Clam Chowder. Photo credit: KJ Blaque.

In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club. 

As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor. 

One of many birthdays celebrated at Thompson’s Clam Bar. I vividly remember the ice cream scoop sundae even though I’m enjoying cake this time. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.

Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe

The colorful and clean signage attracts visitors to this must stop ice cream shop! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Author’s Note: It is hard to believe another Labor Day weekend is upon us. Yet here it is. As written before, it is HappyCapeCod company policy to keep “summah” alive until at least September 22, when the autumnal equinox occurs. As a reminder, the equinox is the time when day and night are of equal length, in this case, marking the start of fall. But before then and with the Labor Day weekend forecast projecting low 80s and upper 70s and sunshine, let’s all bask in the joy of summer a little longer.

Thank you summer for helping me cope with this otherwise horrible time in world history. The water, the sand, the breeze, the trees soothed. Outdoor visits allowed visits with family and friends. In time, I hope the fall foliage, fresh snowfall and eventual spring blossoms, will provide similar opportunities, appreciation and renewal.

Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe, Sandwich

“Putting smiles on the face of those in our local communities is our primary goal.” I’m constantly looking for ways to smile; ice cream will do the trick.

Timed this stop perfectly with no line! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

Tucked away on bustling Route 6A, the slower east to west thoroughfare spanning the charming northern side of the Cape spanning from Sandwich to Orleans, near the Sagamore Bridge is an ice cream shop. If you drive too fast around the bend (heading east), you will likely miss it. Yet in between the nearby landmarks of the Sagamore Inn and the British Beer Company (Sandwich location), is the must-STOP Twin Acres Ice Cream SHOPPE. (Rhyme intended.)

Despite being located off a busy main road, the Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe property is a bright, clean and well-manicured two [twin] acres (get it?). As the story goes, it all started in the mid-1970s, in a one-car garage, next to a cottage community built after World War II. In 1990, the business was redesigned to offer customers a park-like setting with lush gardens of dogwoods, hydrangeas, daisies, roses, lily’s and more, beneath old-growth shade trees. There is ample seating behind the building, which reduces the noise of the busy road and bustling parking lot.

Ellen patiently waits to order an appropriate distance from other customers. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

While ice cream is the main attraction, Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe also offers lobster rolls, sausages and hot dogs, with the essential side of Cape Cod potato chips. But back to the ice cream. They offer over 70 flavors that includes premium hard, soft serve, sorbet, sherbert, vegan and sugar-free ice cream. (The popular seasonal peach ice cream (big chunks) sold out for the season on August 23.) Non-dairy frozen options of mango, raspberry or lemon sorbets are also available. Even vegan ice cream, coconut-based, is available – vanilla, strawberry, chocolate and cookies and cream. There are also milk shakes, specialty sundaes and dog friendly “pup cups” with a dog biscuit, to ensure everyone in the family has something to enjoy. 

Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe actively supports local community projects. You may notice collection boxes for diapers and baby wipes for families in need, through the Help a Baby Center. They also provide gift cards for police departments to reward children seen “doing the right thing” in their communities. They sponsor the Rotary Club of Osterville’s Good Works Fund to support local nonprofits and the Jimmy Fund, raising money for cancer research.

Sometimes just a simple cup of vanilla soft serve is all you need! Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.

With my Upper Cape time limited, the typical move is to swing by Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe on the way off Cape, the last, sweet taste of Cape Cod before heading back to the mainland. Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe is located a mere 3 minutes from the Sagamore Bridge, so stop by on your next trip on or off Cape Cod!