The picture-perfect view of Wychmere Harbor from Route 28. The former clam bar is the long building located middle right. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: Happy Fall! It’s shoulder season time. Autumn is unquestionably the better of the two shoulder seasons on Cape Cod. The water is still warm, there are little to no crowds, seasonal restaurants are still open, left turns are once again safe to make and there is still plenty to do outside. While the pandemic is ever present and continuing to affect far too many people, I continue to be encouraged by those frontline workers, first responders and compassionate neighbors and friends.
Like many, I continue to support local businesses whenever I can, as they too, weather financial and operational challenges. I just learned that Falmouth just extended outdoor dining permits to December, so restaurants are doing everything in their power to make diners feel safe. Layer up, stay outside and support Cape Cod businesses!
Thompson’s Clam Bar, 23 Snow Inn Road, Harwich Port
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Pinterest.com.
Turn up the volume…”Hey! Where ya goin’? I’m goin’ to Thompson’s Clam Bar Because that’s where the Tastiest Clams Are!” Is the seafood good? The best by far! Where? Thompson’s Clam Bar! The iconic radio jingle was actually purchased by Arnold’s Clam Bar in Eastham and re-packaged in 2011…but years before…
…The origins of the legendary restaurant that became Thompson’s Clam Bar can be traced all the way back to the 19th century. In 1891, Levi Edric Snow paid $250 for land on the west side of Salt Pond, and built an eight-room cottage on the property. Levi’s great-grandchildren, the now-famous Thompson Brothers, grew up at the inn.
A 1992 ad in the Cape Cod Chronicle. Photo credit: Cape Cod Chronicle.
After World War II, a newly-established fishing business at the nearby dock attracted onlookers, just like the Chatham Fish Pier does today. The Thompson family eventually allowed fisherman to tie their boats to docks alongside the inn and unload their catch. People soon noticed the activity along the water and began asking to buy seafood right off the boat (buying seafood “off the boat” is available through the Cape Cod Commercial Fisherman’s Alliance). This led to people wanting their freshly bought catch to be cooked on the spot, and soon after, the boys’ home along the dock turned into Thompson’s Clam Bar.
Thompson’s Clam Bar represented classic Cape Cod. Featuring breathtaking views of Wychmere Harbor, diners were surrounded by seaside charm, bustling harbor life and the coming and going of colorful sailboats and fishing vessels. Dining at Thompson’s Clam Bar was a summer tradition for countless families.
A vintage postcard of Thompson’s Clam Bar. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The 552-seat seasonal restaurant was enormous, sometimes serving over 2,000 people in a single day. Opened from mid-June to mid-September, at one point it was the largest seasonal restaurant east of the Mississippi River. Over 400 people worked at the restaurant and related market. The seating was originally “cafeteria style” with tables spread along the length of the patio, with folding chairs with colorful cloth backing. Eventually tables were spaced out and booths added with partitions for privacy.
While a grounded tug boat marked the restaurant entrance, both drop off area and lobby, cars would first be greeted by valets, since parking was extremely limited. It was not uncommon for the line of cars to stretch all the way back to Route 28.
The former Thompson’s Clam Bar from the Wychmere Harbor entrance. Photo credit: Cape Cod Times.
The menu had something for everyone – steamers, littlenecks, steak, chicken and more. Their fried clams and clam chowder were celebrated; the raw bar enticing, succulent lobster prepared any way, and of course, Thompson’s famous clam bake. The combination of piles of fresh seafood paired with ships passing by just yards away from the dockside tables was picture-perfect and enough to attract well-known figures like New York Yankee Joe DiMaggio, Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill and Senator Ted Kennedy.
In 1982, Dr. J. Richard and Shirley Fennell purchased the iconic spot from Frank and Eleanor Thompson. The Fennells also owned the Snow Inn complex where the restaurant was located. The restaurant expanded with two bar areas; downstairs was the Captain’s Quarters Lounge and upstairs, a Victorian-themed lounge with wicker furniture, chandeliers and an ornate fireplace.
A nautically-themed lunch menu featuring Thompson’s Special Cape Cod Clam Chowder. Photo credit: KJ Blaque.
In 1996, Fennell decided to close Thompson’s Clam Bar. It had become increasingly difficult to run a quality high volume restaurant that was only open 10-12 weeks each year. Additionally, finding housing for staff (100 wait staff and bussers and 30 bartenders and barbacks) was also challenging. As the restaurant shuttered, the newly established Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club opened and the restaurant became a venue for private functions as part of the club.
As of 2020, Wychmere Beach Club stands where the famed clam bar once stood along the channel to Wychmere Harbor.
One of many birthdays celebrated at Thompson’s Clam Bar. I vividly remember the ice cream scoop sundae even though I’m enjoying cake this time. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Due to the recent expansion of the trail into Yarmouth, this mile marker is now incorrect. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Author’s Note: My brother Mike is scheduled to run the Boston Marathon this year. Due to the pandemic, a virtual race will replace the traditional, in-person race the week of Labor Day in September. Runners have seven days (to chose from) to run 26.2 miles using the official timing app to submit a qualifying finishing time. While there is no shortage of trails or neighborhoods to run 26.2 miles in Washington, DC (he lives there), the mid-Atlantic heat and humidity make the early September dates a punishing place to run. No support, no fans and no finish line celebration, including that must-have goodie bag stocked with calorie-rich snacks for recovery. Not ideal.
During a recent bike ride, it occured to me that a familiar paved path through a scenic and less populated area in a “cooler” latitude could be a better option. The all-too-familiar path will have seen the peak of the tourist season come to end. Additionally, the family can act as “support,” leap-frogging him at designated interchanges along the trail. It’s odd to read these words in the same sentence, but looks like my brother will be running the Boston Marathon along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.
To do some “re-con,” I started the “marathon distanced” ride from Yarmouth to Wellfleet at the trailhead located at Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth. Photo credit: Bob Shaw.
Expanded Cape Cod Rail Trail Better Than Ever
It may seem like bicycling on Cape Cod has been around forever; that thought would be correct. Bicycling soared in popularity in the late 1800s, which led to more paved roads (which also led to the shift from the railroad to the motor car for common transportation needs) across the peninsula that is Cape Cod. While it may seem like the Cape Cod Rail Trail (CCRT) has been around forever too, it is only nearing its 40th anniversary. Other paved bike trails on the Cape are actually older (ex: The Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth opened in 1975). In the CCRT’s case, an unofficial opening with little fanfare occurred in 1980, which gave way for a slightly more glamorous ribbon-cutting in September of 1981. Almost forty years later, that modest 7 mile paved recreational path from Brewster to Eastham has more than tripled to 25.5 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet, with ambitious expansion plans west to Falmouth and northeast to Provincetown. Wouldn’t that be something, one path connecting the entire peninsula!
The recreational trail would not be here if it was not for the railroads, and those origins are 170 years old. (My father, the family’s railroad and train laureate, should appreciate this divergence.) As I understand the complicated history of rail on Cape Cod…in 1848, the Cape Cod Branch Railroad laid the first set of tracks on Cape Cod, linking Middleboro (off-Cape) to Sandwich (upper-Cape). The line was extended to Wellfleet (outer-Cape) in 1873. Not surprisingly, all towns were not connected to this main line. To get in on the action, in 1886, the Chatham Railroad Company built 7 miles of new track from Harwich to Chatham. The Chatham Railroad Company eventually leased the railroad to the Old Colony Railroad, of which the spur rail trail gets its name. Indeed, the railroad transformed Cape Cod.
The former train station, now Chatham Railroad Museum, is one of the last remaining symbols of the railroad in Chatham, MA. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Tourism blossomed, refrigeration cars transported perishable products to and from, even baseball teams were able to play games in towns farther apart (Middleboro fielded a team that played in the Cape circuit in the late 1800s). While freight trains continued to run into the mid-1960s, passenger service shuttered in the late 1930s as roads and highways leading to and across Cape Cod were improved and the car became the preferred method of travel. Today, Cape Cod Central Railroad and the seasonal Cape Cod Flyer provide passenger service from Buzzard’s Bay and Boston, respectively, to Hyannis.
Back to the rails becoming trails. The first community to act was Harwich, where, in 1964, voters agreed to take the tracks going through the town by eminent domain for use as a bikeway upon failure of the line by track owners. The bikeway plan got another boost in 1967 when the Province Lands Bike Trail opened in Provincetown, followed by the opening of the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole in 1975. Momentum grew to repurpose the failed Penn Central railway line through the mid, lower and outer cape, through Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, and Eastham. In 1976, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired part of the old New York-New Haven Railroad corridor and began construction of the rail trail connecting those mid-Cape and outer-Cape communities. The result was an eight-foot wide asphalt trail which would lead from Rt. 134 in Dennis to Locust Road in Eastham. As early as 1984, expansion plans were designed for the Harwich to Chatham spur trail. In 1995, another three miles were added from Locust Road to Lecount Hollow Road Wellfleet, bringing the trail to 22 miles in length.
One of a couple directional signs that help bicyclists navigate the Bicycle Rotary in Harwich. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
The expansion of the CCRT continues, most notably with the recent opening of another 3.7 mile extension beginning at the trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road in South Yarmouth, connecting to the previous end point at Route 134 in South Dennis. Being based in Chatham, my bike riding mainly occurs along the Old Colony Rail Trail. That is, until a recent Sunday morning when I decided to check-out that new section of trail in Yarmouth and ended up pedaling just shy of 30 miles to Ocean View Drive in Wellfleet.. Indeed, the expanded CCRT is better than ever.
Below is a short overview of what you will find along the trail as well as a fun/interesting note about sections of the trail that cut through each town.
Amenities
Most of the amenities users will find next to the trail are located on the outer cape. Bike shops are scattered throughout the trail, but the majority of restaurants (restrooms) will be found beyond Nickerson State Park. If you are 21 or older, be on the look-out for the winery in Harwich!
Save some energy to explore Nickerson State Park and those 1,900 acres. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Crossings
There are approximately 38 road road crossings, with about a dozen at major intersections. Bicyclists should stop and dismount before crossing, even though it is annoying especially when you have momentum on your side and wind at your back.
The intersection at Dupont Avenue. Contrary to Google Maps, the rail trail is connected between Yarmouth and Dennis. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Natural environment
You will pass cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, wildlife sanctuaries, state park, beaches, unmarked and well worn dirt paths. If you have an unlimited amount of time, pack a for a side hike and a dip in the water.
Towns
Yarmouth
Most of the paved trail passes through lush, green forest then cuts through the Bayberry Hills Golf Course. A few high traffic road crossings bring you to Peter Homer Park, with the trail passing old railroad tracks, eventually paralleling the mid-Cape highway. Important note: Contrary to Google maps, the trail does not end at Dupont Avenue; it is a smooth connection from the Yarmouth trailhead off Higgins Crowell Road to Dennis.
The newest extension of the Cape Cod Rail Trail cuts through Bayberry Hills Golf Course in Yarmouth. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Dennis
The former trailhead off Route 134 still is the home of mile marker “0” as well as the plaque providing a brief history of the trail, unlike my novel above. This section of the paved trail snakes around the industrial parks of Dennis. Notable features are limited major traffic crossings, peek-a-boo views of kettle ponds, and the first scent of salty pine. The Devil’s Purse Brewery is also a short detour off the trail.
A “peek-a-boo” pond off the Dennis section of the rail trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Harwich
The Harwich section features acres upon acres of Harwich Conservation Land, a hidden wildlife sanctuary, the first bridge over Route 6, and the bicycle rotary, which takes you northeast to Brewster and on to Wellfleet or; east, to Harwich Center and onto Chatham. A notable highlight is the short detour to First Crush Winery.
First Crush Winery is the one-and-only winery off the Cape Cod Rail Trail. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Brewster
Arguably the most scenic stretch of the trail passes by a half dozen shimmering fresh water ponds that beg you to stop for a quick dip. The Brewster Conservation Trust also promotes multiple forested areas that are “preserved forever,” which will surely make you smile. The trail turns deeper into heavily wooded areas with many well-worn and not-so-worn dirt paths off the side. If you can muster additional miles, take a loop around the paved trails that weave through the 1,900 acre Nickerson State Park.
The view from the rail trail of Seymour Pond in Brewster. Photo credit: Jeff Shaw.
Orleans
The Orleans section passes over Route 6 again, before shifting into bustling Orleans Center, with restaurants, shopping and bike shops. One of the trailheads was an exchange point for the Ragnar Relay, which gave me a chuckle.
A section of the route that cuts through a quiet road near Nickerson State Park.
Eastham
The Eastham section has a more open feel, as the sky seems brighter and trail less crowded. The trail passes next to crowd-favorite Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, known for fried clams, soft serve and mini golf! You can also take a longer detour (more like a side trip) to the Cape Cod National Seashore, Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Nauset Bike Trail by turning onto Locust Road, and then Salt Pond Road. You will have to cross Route 6 next to the former Lobster Shanty.
Wellfleet
The final section in Wellfleet is squeezed between Route 6 and the field of power lines. There is easy access to nearby restaurants, shops, campgrounds literally right off the trail. While the parking lot may signify the end of the trail, I would highly recommend continuing onto Lecount Hollow Road, up Ocean View Drive, all the way to Newcomb Hollow Beach. The peek-a-boo views at each dune overlook is worth the extra pedaling.
It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to bike the trail from Yarmouth to Wellfleet with a couple short stops for water and pictures. Oh, and if you are planning to run 26.2 miles, continue into the Lecount Hollow Beach parking lot.
The highly coveted Cape Cod Mini Masters Tournament Trophy, created by Matt Gianquinto, debuted in 2019.
Author’s Note: Last year marked the beginning of a long-overdue, yet totally appropriate summer tradition, The Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters tournament. If your first thought is Augusta National, a PGA major tournament, one of the toughest courses in golf, green jackets, manicured greens, etc., your thoughts would be “on par” with this little gem of an event. Well, that’s the idea; multiple days, rounds, courses, and people competing for mini golf glory in a location with deep roots in the mini golf tradition – Cape Cod! With the summer season wrapping up, scheduling this absurdly fun event was a no-brainer for Labor Day weekend. End on a high note!
The inaugural 2018 Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters tournament featured 5 rounds of 18 holes, at Skull Island (Yarmouth), both Pirate’s Cove courses (Yarmouth), Arnold’s Mini Golf (Eastham) and Cape Escape (Orleans). Much to my surprise, an epic comeback during the last round stole the “green jacket” (aka bragging rights) from right under my nose. However, the 2019 Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters was a different story. The tournament featured the same amount of rounds (5 rounds of 18 holes), at Sandwich Mini Golf (Sandwich), Lightning Falls (Hyannis), Pirate’s Cove-both courses (Yarmouth) and Harbor Lights (Brewster); the important difference being, a trophy would be awarded to the winner, so much more than just bragging rights was on the line. Sure enough, consistent play (not to mention scoring 18 total strokes better than second place) was enough to score the necessary points (we used a point system that needs tweaking) to take home the trophy. It’s actually hard to believe an officially sanctioned tournament has not already claimed Cape Cod home given the quality and quantity of mini golf courses. Maybe our little tournament will go big some day…
Almost exactly one year to the day, Sebastian Arcelus, provides a little luck and good humor prior to the final round of the 2019 Mini Golf Masters.
One weird Mini Golf Masters weekend coincidence. Last year, after completing both rounds at Pirate’s Cove, our group saw Sebastian Arcelus, who played reporter Lucas Goodwin in the Netflix series House of Cards, with his family enjoying ice cream outside. Fearful of ruining their family time, we did not approach the celebrity couple (his wife Stephanie J Block, recently starred in the Cher Show, among many other credits) and later regretted not doing so. Well, wouldn’t you know it, 366 days later, Ellen and I walk into South Chatham’s Talkative Pig Restaurant, and there they all are – again! This time there was no fear. I even told Sebastian about the Mini Golf Masters and he told me, “you’re going to win it, man.” So I did.
A Tradition:Mini Golf on Cape Cod
Ever since Cape Cod became a tourist destination, mini golf is one of many family friendly activities available in almost all Cape Cod towns late morning, noon and night, light rain or shine. I’ve actually had my round interrupted due to a hail storm. Mini golf course offerings range in terms of quality, difficulty and price. As an example, Putter’s Paradise in Yarmouth costs $9.50 per person, with a free reply, plus a free round if you get a hole-in-one on the 18th hole. Pirate’s Cove, just down the road in the same town, costs $11.50 per person, with one of the most challenging courses on the Cape. Pirate’s Cove pro tip, if the courses are not busy, they will likely let you play the other course for free. Harbor LIghts in Brewster, “features” built-in bumps in the turf close to the cup on most holes, which can dramatically alter one’s score. Mini golf courses on Cape Cod are generally open from April 1 to Columbus Day, and normally the hours of 10:30am – 9:00pm.
And if you like trivia, here’s a fun fact courtesy of the Cape Cod Times: Did you know there is a difference between “Mini” golf and “Putt-Putt” golf? The name putt-putt is associated with a chain of family amusement centers, Putt-Putt Fun Center, known for their particular brand of miniature golf. In putt-putt golf, par for each hole is 2 while in mini golf par can range from 2 to 6. On Cape Cod, you will find mini golf courses. And always remember, drive for show, putt for dough.
The faces tell the story after 36 hard fought holes at Pirate’s Cove, Yarmouth, during the 2019 Mini Golf Masters.
Brewster
Harbor Lights Mini Golf, 81 Underpass Road, located off historic Route 6A in Brewster, near the Cape Cod Rail Trail, is set in a lush tree lined setting. So lush, the staff leaves bug spray on the benches, which is a nice touch but was not necessary when I last played. To add to your leisurely experience, ice cream is available on site with a few Adirondack chairs overlooking the first hole and practice green. Beware Hole #16, an intimidating Par 3 that requires some finesse or you could easily be looking at scoring a six. Many of the greens have built-in, yet subtle “bumps” in the turf that make you second-guess the best angle to the cup.
Susan’s Garden Mini Golf, 197 Shad Hole Road, bills itself as classic Cape Cod Mini Golf. The first sentence on their website reads, “Step back in time and relax.” The course was built in 1950 and has been restored and kept true to its roots. For 60 years, Susan’s Garden Mini Golf has been in business and is proud of the fact that it is not uncommon to hear adults saying they’ve been playing mini golf at Susan’s since they were children. At night, tiki torches light the course around the perennial gardens. A $1 off coupon can be found on the website.
DennisPort
Holiday Hill Family Fun Center, 350 Main Street, Dennis Port, is located off Route 28 and described as a beautiful 18 hole Cape Cod themed course overlooked by an 18 foot waterfall. Other features include a lighthouse, a covered bridge, and several bubbling fountains. A $1 off coupon can be found in the Cape Cod Guide (book).
While Harbor Lights Mini Golf is set in a lush garden, beware of bumpy greens and funny angles.
Eastham
Arnold’s Lobster and Clam Bar, 3580 State Highway Route 6, is a “long line out the door” popular seafood restaurant also serving soft serve ice cream and mini golf. What else does one need for a delightful afternoon? Actually, it is conveniently located off the Cape Cod Rail Trail, should mini golf not be enough activity to burn off those calories. The 18 hole course features scaled down replicas of Lower Cape historical landmarks in addition to a pirate ship and lush floral landscaping. Pro tip: Hole #2 is make-able in two (eagle) which would give golfers an important buffer in case later holes spell scorecard disaster. Golf costs $8.00 per person, but only $2.00 for a replay. There is also a $1 off coupon on their website.
Poit’s Lighthouse Adventure Mini Golf, 5270 State Highway Route 6, bills itself as the Outer Capes Best and Largest Nautical Themed Adventure Mini Golf Course. The 18 hole course has a 16 foot wrap-around waterfall, a winding river, and a pond with geysers. In addition to mini golf, Poit’s has a snack bar and a video arcade. It also offers free replays!
Cape Cod Gift Barn, 4180A State Highway Route 6, is a combination entertainment and shopping experience, featuring an 18-hole, two level, mini golf course in the red barn, along with an arcade, and shops for adults. The property is family-owned and used to be a turnip and asparagus farm. For those that do not know, the turnip is quite the celebrity in Eastham, MA!
Just minutes after crossing the Bourne Bridge onto the Cape, 36 holes of water-feature mini golf awaits!
Falmouth
Cataumet Light, 1370 Route 28, features an 18 hole mini golf course with three rivers, two fountains (one for wishing) and the famous Lazy Sundaes Ice Cream Shop. The mini golf course was recently redesigned and has been ranked in the Top 5 courses on Cape Cod. There is also batting cages and bumper boats on site. Word has it a few well known celebrities are known to frequent the location. Sebastian?
Harwich
Harbor Glen Mini Golf, 168 Route 28, is located at The Weatherdeck Restaurant in West Harwich. The 18 hole astro turf course includes a waterfall and pond. The setting is vintage Cape Cod and the iconic sign sends a British Open kind-of-vibe.
While I do love myself some soft serve ice cream, Barnstable Brewing, the next door neighbor to Lightning Falls, was just too tempting. The Blueberry Ale is amazing.
Hyannis Steve and Sue Par-Tee Freeze Lighting Falls Adventure Mini Golf, 455 West Main Street, is known equally for soft serve ice cream as well as 18 holes of mini golf. It features a cave and a waterfall and new turf surface, like brand new as of summer 2019. Hole #17, a Par 3, is one of the toughest holes ever conceived, with ample danger in the middle and on the sides of the green. While Steve and Sue’s following for ice cream is strong, just next door is the new brewery, Barnstable Brewing, serving craft brews, an outdoor patio and lots of pub games like giant Connect 4. Complimentary pretzel bites are a nice touch.
Martha’s Vineyard Island Cove Adventures, 386 State Road, located in Vineyard Haven, is an 18 hole adventure golf course set in extensive gardens that take you through and around caves, waterfalls and ponds. There is also a climbing wall and outdoor space that can be booked for private events. Of course, ice cream is available on the property.
Mashpee
Popponesset Mini Golf, 259 Shore Drive, is located in Popponesset Marketplace, home to shopping, restaurants, outdoor activities (summer concert performances) and of course, mini golf. This unique seaside village with colorful galleries and shops bills itself a little piece of “Olde Cape Cod.”
After surviving an unexpected hail storm, Ellen and I finished our round…only to play another round because of free replay!
Orleans Cape Escape Adventure Golf, 15 Canal Road, is a pristine nautical 18 Hole course featuring a flashing lighthouse, a Japanese pond with water lilies and koi, fishing boats, and a waterfall. The owners friendly dog also patrols the grounds and tries his best to catch a fish. Each hole is named after a Cape Cod town, including Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket and Wareham (off-Cape). If the turf isn’t soaked, Hole #18 “Nantucket,” is almost always a hole-in-one if you go through the waterfall.
Sandwich Sandwich Mini Golf, 159 Route 6A, is a well established, 36 Hole mini golf mecca, almost walking distance to Jarves Street/downtown Sandwich. Owner and Founder H. Maurice Burke readily admits that this adorable mini golf course is the result of his lifelong hobby. Built on his grandparents land, what started as a boyhood dream is now an extensive and creative course made up of windmills and bridges. Literally, water runs through much of the course and spills onto a few holes. Hole #10 (white scorecard) is an automatic hole-in-one if you go up and through the lighthouse.
It’s hard not to notice this already tempting sign when driving on the Cranberry Highway. But then you learn the price to play is $4 per person, and unlimited!
Wareham Cartland of Cape Cod, 3022 Cranberry Highway, is not your average mini golf course. First, the course features 20 holes, rather than the traditional 18 holes. All holes are Par 3s. And the best part, it only costs $4 for UNLIMITED play. There are also coupons on their website. Get to the course as soon as it opens so you can play a round, two or three and get over the bridge before traffic ever becomes a concern.
Sand & Surf Mini Golf, 3194 Cranberry Highway, is a Par 42 adventure filled 18 Hole mini golf course, conveniently located near Cafe2Cup Coffee House and the Lobster Pot. Navigate through waterfalls, a cave, a lighthouse, a crashed airplane, beached boats and a shivering mummy. You can also play all day for $7.99.
It’s all smiles before the competition begins.Found this gem, circa 2009, in the archives. Looks like Cove staff did some painting…
Wellfleet Wellfleet Dairy Bar & Mini Golf, 51 State Highway Route 6, is located at the entrance to the Drive-In and Cinemas, and features “retro” mini golf on a well maintained vintage mini golf course. This 18 hole course is still the original obstacle course built in 1961! If you like Patti Page’s Old Cape Cod, than this course is for you!
Yarmouth – The towns tagline “Cape Cod Within Reach” could also be “A Mini Golf Mecca“
Pirate’s Cove The Original Adventure Golf, 728 Main Street, is the Augusta National (location of the PGA’s Masters) of mini golf courses. It features not one, but two, 18 hole courses; the Captain’s Course, and the more difficult, Blackbeard’s Course. As you would expect, the Masters ain’t cheap. A round of 18 is $11.50 per adult, $10.50 per child, though there are discounts for playing 36 holes and large groups. There are multiple holes in which your ball can easily go out of play. In particular, Hole #16 on Blackbeard course is a multi-story Par 2, that has two cups to choose from based on where your ball pops out. Hole #15 on the Captain’s course has an elevated hole, so it’s easy to run up four, five or even six strokes if you’re not careful on an otherwise obstacle-free hole. History buffs will also enjoy reading about famous pirates on the tee box of each hole on both courses.
Putter’s Paradise, 119 Route 28, features a big white whale and rowing fisherman to “reel” you in as you drive by. It’s been going strong since 1979 and features many concrete sculptures, including the whale, created by local artist T.J. Neil. The best part about Putter’s Paradise, everyone gets a free replay. The $9.50 round per adult is really $4.25 per person! There is also a $1 off coupon on their website. Hole #9 (Par 3), closest to the road, forces you to “go for it” through a tight opening under a bridge, rather than “laying up,” before it. High risk, high reward.
The first course played, Skull Island, at the Inaugural Cape Cod Mini Golf Masters Tournament in 2018.
Skull Island Adventure Golf and Sports World, 934 Main Street, Route 28, is home to sports galore. If you see a big white skull, you’re at the right place. Hole #17 is an elbow Par 3 that is possible to hit a hole-in-one at the right angle. This course was actually the first location of the inaugural Mini Golf Masters tournament, and I’m happy to share I took the lead (-2) par.
Wild Animal Lagoon, 62 Route 28, features a safari setting for kids and kids at heart to putt around elephants, giraffes, and rhinos. With challenge wheels that change the rules at certain holes and signs with animal facts, this West Yarmouth mini golf location is certainly unique. A $1 off coupon can be found on their website.
What is your favorite place to play mini golf on Cape Cod?
Author’s Note: Spring is finally here! While I am a big fan of winter due to alpine recreation, the holidays and the mesmorizing look of a blanket of fresh snow, I’m ready for spring. Now that the April showers have (hopefully) passed for lots of May flowers, I’ve dusted off my list of trails to explore, golf courses to divot-up, and beaches and ponds to soak in once the temperature creeps higher. Staying with trail exploration, most avid outdoors explorers wouldn’t think of Cape Cod as a place for challenging, if not stunning trails; those locations are reserved for the Green, White, Rocky, Appalachian and Cascade Mountains. Or the national parks. That assumption would be a mistake. From the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail (former railroad byway that is now paved), to miles of wooded Audubon grassy paths, to pine needle saturated fire roads, to beach dune trails, Cape Cod has plenty of trails (over 100 public trails) to keep you, your family, and your pet, enjoying the outdoors.
Below is a mix of popular, quiet and “tucked away” trails for your next hike, bike, walk or run. Pack that camera and let’s go!
PopularTrails (The “Go To’s”)
The Sagamore Bridge looms in the distance of the Cape Cod Canal.
Cape Cod Canal, Bourne. Perhaps one of the most iconic settings on Cape Cod, the Army Corps of Engineers-built Cape Cod Canal separates the mainland from the 65-mile peninsula. With one of the three bridges in seemingly constant view, the eye-catching entry point of Cape Cod could not be a better place for a paved trail on both sides of the canal. I hate to admit it, but when entering the “canal zone,” my goal is to get across the bridge as quickly as possible, rather than, say, stop at Herring Run Recreation Area, grab a picnic table and watch the boats pass; maybe even unload the bikes for a short pedal along the trail. To make me feel better, Ellen reminded me we stopped at the Seafood Shanty once last year on our way to the Cape – which means we had to take a left turn out of their parking lot into a four lane, 50 miles-per-hour de facto highway, which was a challenge to say the least. Come to think of it, I’ve ran in the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod since 2013, and two of the “exchanges” are along both sides of the canal. We also took a ride on the scenic Cape Cod Central Railroad for Octoberfest, which stops and turns around at the canal. Phew, glad to know I’ve spent some time at the canal after all.
The views are endless near Coast Guard Beach, Eastham.
Cape Cod National Seashore, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, Provincetown. Most know the Cape Cod National Seashore for the 43,000 acres of protected woodlands, ponds and shoreline that can never be developed. Fortunately, the decision to protect the land from development does not mean the public is forbidden as well. There are countless trails of varying length, location and difficulty that explores the four-town (non-contiguous) areas. In Eastham, the Doane Trail is a paved twist-and-turn trail that leads you from the Salt Pond Visitor Center to Coast Guard Beach, with some breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. You can even “square the block” via car by taking Doane Road to Ocean View Drive (Eastham) back down Cable Road, and see four lighthouses (Nauset Lighthouse & the decommissioned, but preserved Three Sisters Lighthouses) on the way. The National Seashore land is one of the Cape’s most treasured natural resources and there is no shortage of ways to explore. You can even volunteer to clear, maintain and repair the trails through the Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore — and their many projects.
Relaxing at Le Count after completing the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.
Cape Cod Rail Trail, Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet. One of my proudest (fun) moments on Cape Cod was completing the entire 22-mile stretch between Dennis to Wellfleet. Walking up the short parking lot and seeing PB Boulangerie was satisfying, indeed. It was a lot to bite off (pun intended) considering I don’t ride regularly, but it was a picture-perfect day. I even took a nap atop the dunes of Le Count Beach. The trail winds through six Cape Cod towns, where you pass bike shops, ponds, restaurants, conservation land, town centers, wood bridges, wetlands, picnic grounds and even a mini golf course (Arnolds!). There is no shortage of parking lots so you can pick and chose where to start and how long to ride.
Between grassy, sandy and paved paths, you have plenty of options in Nickerson State Park.
Nickerson State Park, Brewster. While the 1,900 acre property has ample miles of trails, Nickerson State Park is known for its camping grounds. With over 400 camp sites, Nickerson State Park is set in pine and oak forests that slope down to the banks of eight crystal-clear fresh water ponds. The location is great if you want to sleep under the stars, but also don’t want to be in the middle of nowhere. The park is sandwiched between Routes 6A and 6. Also, on the north end of the property, is Brewster Day Camp, where my brother was a lifeguard for two summers during college. Between the two of us, we’ve covered much of the paved trails training for various races or just getting the blood pumping before a lazy day at the beach.
The view from the stairs down to White Crest Beach, Wellfleet.
Ocean View Drive, Wellfleet. If only the road was a few feet higher…Most of the views are of an expansive sky, tall dunes and surrounding protected woods, until the beach parking lot entrances give you a peek-a-boo view of the majestic Atlantic Ocean, well below the dunes. This 3-mile road provides access to four of Wellfleet’s Beaches, Le Count, White Crest, Cahoon Hollow (and the beloved Beach Comber) and Newcomb Hollow. It was also the highly coveted “Exchange 31” of the Ragnar Relay Cape Cod, because of the stunning ocean views, gentle breeze and mostly flat elevation. Indeed, you will find walkers, runners and bikers a like cruising the road year-round, which I noticed one of the many times turning off Route 6 to instead, take this road East whenever in the area. Don’t confuse the streets; there is an Ocean View Drive in Eastham and one in Wellfleet (they are not connected).
“Tucked Away”
Chasing fellow runners during a 5K on a fire road off Ocean View Drive in Eastham.
Fire Roads, Eastham. For years, I’ve driven, ran or biked by many fire roads (trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore woodlands for emergency use) while criss-crossing the beaches of Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro. Then in 2018, when running in the Healthy Hearts, Healthy Parks 5K, the second half of the course turned onto a fire road trail adjacent to Cable Road. The change in perspective was sudden, stark and well, stunning. The sounds of the ocean and from the road immediately disappeared upon entering the dense forest. After a few minutes, I literally had no idea what direction I was headed or where I was going to pop out; in someone’s backyard, onto Route 6, into Nauset Bay? (I popped out on Nauset Road.) There are miles and miles of Fire Roads littered across the National Seashore woods, so just pick one and check it out. Just make sure to stay on the trail!
The only sounds at Frost Fish Creek are birds chirping and twigs snapping as you walk by.
Frost Fish Creek Trail, North Chatham. Talk about tucked away, we passed the little dirt road to access the trail head twice before finally seeing the opening after the bridge. The lower part of the trail parallels the creek almost in its entirty, with a few log benches that dot the trailside positioned in front of faint openings in the brush for a better view of the water. The upper loop is perfect for a trail run due to the “peaks and valleys”. There are two other entry points to the trail, both in residential neighborhoods, of which we had to check out to see if we could tell where we were. (We could not.) The short loop took less than 30 minutes, just enough time to burn off the calories consumed at breakfast.
“Peace and Quiet”
A sandy dune path leading toward Stage Harbor in Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.
Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, Chatham. Monomoy has always been a special place to wander the shoreline, follow the wooden plank path or pick a dune trail for a little solitude. For a place with such natural beauty, Monomoy is never crowded and is a great way to get off the grid. By continuing along the sandbar, you are literally walking into Nantucket Sound. Just pay attention to the tides or you’ll get either stranded or very wet. In the summer of 2011, its significance in my life increased exponentially as Ellen and I got engaged on the shoreline. It is also a great place to bring your dog before May 1 or after September 15 (though there is one spot between the private beach and Monomoy’s west boundary that is dog friendly). You can even spot a few hearty folks clamming during low tide.
Be “shore” (pun intended) to cruise Shore Road into Provincetown for a charming view of Pilgrim Monument and the end of Cape Cod.
Province Lands Bike Trail, Provincetown. Years back, I just happened to have my Trek 8000 mountain bike in the trunk and decided to finally make a run up to the P-Town trails. Glad I did. The Province Lands is an expansive area of brush pine forest featuring a paved trail network near Race Point. If your activity on the trails doesn’t get your blood bumping, try walking to the Old Harbor Life Saving Station while bracing a biting headwind. It’s also common to see whales off shore from the beach in the shoulder seasons. There is plenty of parking and you will even see the occasional plane buzz overhead from the municipal airport. Pro tip: If you like charming beachfront cottages and motels of yesteryear, take Shore Road (off Route 6) through Truro to P-Town. It may add 5-10 minutes to your drive, but the sights and views are vintage Cape Cod (queue Patty Paige).
One of the many sandy pathways at Thompson’s Field, Harwich.
Thompson’s Field Conservation Area, Harwich. I was tipped off to check out these trails by Sean from Chatham Perk, as another hidden gem in plain sight. Sean is actually one of the happiest and toughest dudes on the Lower Cape. Last year, my favorite brewed coffee was inadvertently not brewed one morning (such a first world travesty!). Upon learning this “Sean to rescue,” brewed it within 15 minutes and gave it to me on the house for the inconvenience. This dude also bikes to work each day, from Dennis to North Chatham, a cool 12 miles or 40 minutes. He’s dabbling as a trainer and it’s no surprise why – perhaps agility classes will take place at Thompson’s Field. This 56-acre wooded trail network features both sandy and grassy pathways with a few dedicated trailheads for a longer loop. The Cape Cod Rail Trail actually cuts right through the middle of the park, which makes popping in and out from the paved path a nice option. One of the two open fields are surrounded by bird feeders, so beware the binoculars! At 8:00am on Saturday mornings, the upper field becomes a dog meet-up – and chaos reigns. Parking can be tight (off Chatham Road), but there is a second lot on the other side of the property. Thompson’s Field is perfect for a light trail run, easy walk and most importantly, is dog friendly.
I’ve also heard or read good things about other trails including the Great Marsh Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Ashumet Holly Audubon Sanctuary, Falmouth; Long Pasture Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Skunkett River Audubon Sanctuary, Barnstable; Town of Barnstable Trails; Shining Sea Bikeway, North Falmouth; Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary, South Wellfleet.
Author’s Note: A few weeks back- when Tiger Woods was mounting epic comebacks at The British Open and PGA Championship — I found myself staring in unexpected excitement at the leaderboard. As we all know, Tiger’s overdue comeback eventually fell short, most recently to Mr. Rock Steady Brooks Koepka. The excitement of climbing the leaderboard didn’t just stay with me watching those tournaments, but sparked a decades old memory of my own race to the top.
About 20 years ago, “Bogey Brother” Dan (a reference to our usual per-hole golf score) and I mimicked the chase for leaderboard supremacy, but on a sand bar rather than on a fairway. “Scoop golf” was the game; and we were both pretty good at the art of scooping (flinging) a paddleball off the sand towards a hole (with a flag) anywhere from 50 to 200 yards down and around the beach and/or sandbar as the tides dictated. The game enjoyed a strong following for two summers on Ridgevale Beach in Chatham, with the final tournament of the final season being most memorable.
The Ridgevale Scoop Golf Association (RSGA) Cup. First awarded in 1989, I won it in 1997 after winning 3/4 majors.
We all know the PGA Tour features four (or should I say “fore”) annual “major” tournaments (The Masters, The U.S. Open, The (British) Open and the PGA Championship). These are the events the scoop golf seasons mimicked, though we called them the Quarter Moon Open, Ridgevale Open, The Masters, and Farewell Tournament for reasons to be explained upon request. Additionally, professional golfers compete for the FedEx Cup, the trophy (and earnings) awarded to the winner of the tour. The scoop golf tour also had a cup dating back to 1989. Finally, another golf competition, the Ryder Cup, features the United States golfers squaring off against their European counterparts in the biennial match play tournament. We never played anyone from another country, but had that third season occurred, who knows.
The 1997 Scoop Golf major tournament awards. Much to my wife’s chagrin, it’s times like these I’m happy I tend to save things!
Why all the background you may be asking; these are all important elements that describe a new competition on Cape Cod. Realizing summer was winding down, I felt the need for a dose of mini golf and another “lightbulb moment” occurred – to do a Mini Golf Masters Cape Cod!
Other than catching a late afternoon or evening Cape Cod League Baseball game, the “mini golf then ice cream” combination is probably the favorite activity or night cap for most families – and many adults – during summer on the Cape. At last count, there are 20 mini golf courses on Cape Cod, including Martha’s Vineyard. Yarmouth, located on the mid-Cape, is “the home” of mini golf on Cape Cod, similar to Scotland being the home of golf. Admittedly, that is quite the comparison. Yet Yarmouth features four mini golf courses, three of which are consistently top picks or recommendations in every article or activity guide that mentions mini golf. So, yeah, it’s a big deal in the mini golf world.
The highest ranked mini golfers on Cape Cod!
This past Labor Day weekend seemed the ideal time to schedule the inaugral Mini Golf Masters Cape Cod. I first pitched the idea to “Frenemy” Matt (Frenemy Matt was mentioned in the cornhole boards post in June) and he was all in. Our better halves reluctunatntly agreed to tag along, though I’m sure the kid in them said heck yeah! After all, mini golf can be the great equalizer; but more likely because of the “ice cream to follow.” The scoring system was a point system, with the format a combination of stroke and match play. Like the scoop golf masters, this tournament would feature “majors.” The course selections were both nostolgic (Arnold’s in Eastham and Cape Escape in Orleans as they are the closest to where we live) as well as highly rated, such as Prirate’s Cove and Skull Island in Yarmouth.
Pirate’s Cove features two 18-hole courses: Captain’s and Blackbeard’s with pirate history on each hole. We should have left Matt in the pillory.
The original idea was to pick a cloudy day and do it all at once. But Labor Day weather turned perfect, so golf was spread out over three days. On the first day, I did work in Yarmouth. Perhaps a little pirate runs through my blood, as I took care of business on Skull Island and Pirate’s Cove—Blackbeard course. I also just missed winning Pirate’s Cove – Captain’s course by a mere stroke. I also was on the winning side of team match play on every set of nine holes except one. After day one, I sat a top the leaderboard with 4 1/2 points, followed by Kate with 2 1/2 points, then Ellen and Matt with 1/2 point each. We added another Matt at Pirate’s Cove-Blackbeard and others were to join the following day.
The “log” and “bridge” hole at Arnold’s featured a delightful waterfall to soothe any tee box jitters.
But storm clouds approached as we headed east to the Outer Cape. First, the point system doubled and team match play ended. There was precedent for the points doubling in a recent golf tournament, as it gives everyone a chance to win even if they had a rough round or were just joining the competition. Since mini golf is meant to be fun, this must be the case. If you can hit into a waterfall, windmill or clown’s mouth, you should!
The shoddy leaderboard. We will do better next season.
On the second day, despite a field of seven, Matt owned Arnold’s in Eastham, winning the front, back and stroke play as well as just missing an even round by one stroke. The leaderboard was tied just like that at 4 1/2.
On the final day, I pulled into the parking lot of Cape Escape in Orleans with Jimmy Buffett playing on the golf course speakers. I smiled. This seemed like a sign from the mini golf gods as Matt hates Buffett (that’s not a typo). However, after a solid front 6 and up one stroke, the two level green of Hole 7, ironically named Chatham, sent my ball flying off a brick, off the course and the penalty shot ended up causing a 2 shot swing in favor of the bad guy. Front 9 lost with a bad bounce. It was suddenly 5 1/2 to 4 1/2 to 2 1/2.
As if the world turned upside down, another bad brick bounce happened on Hole 11 (Barnstable) and Matt gained another stroke leaving little room to make up three shots. I needed aces. With two holes to play, I cut the lead to 3, pretty much insurmountable…unless I aced and he had another “Matt Meltdown,” a playful term coined after his six at Pirate’s Cove-Captain’s course on the second hole. It was painfully comical to watch.
On Hole 17 (Martha’s Vineyard), I managed honors after winning the 16th and took a good long look at the break. The pace of my putt was near perfect, but the ball just grazed the right of the cup and missed. And on Hole 18 (Nantucket), a similar result; my ball came out of the waterfall and stopped a few inches from the left side of the hole. Another Matt win when points doubled and just like that, the inaugral mini golf masters was over.
The scorecards of the inaugural Mini Golf Masters Cape Cod.
Interestingly, after calculating all the scores for our shoddy leaderboard, I discovered an odd anomoly. I actually shot 4 strokes better than Matt. If not for the doubling of the points on the last two rounds (he won 4 points and another 4 points), those two round wins would have matched my two round wins (2 point each), leaving us tied at 4 1/2 points each! (The 1/2s were earned during team match play.) That would have been some way to kick off an inaugral competition. A tie! And what would a tie-break even look like? Play the last hole again? Play the course again? Play another, completely different course? Rock, Paper, Scissors? Hmm. How about using stroke play to break the tie? That would mean I would have won by 4 strokes. Hopefully there will be many more years of the Mini Golf Masters Cape Cod!
What Cape Cod mini golf courses should be part of the 2019 Mini Golf Masters Cape Cod?
